CHAPTER EIGHT.
AN AUSTRALASIAN a.s.sIGNMENT.
1927.
"I could never have done the tour without her help"
FOR THE NEXT six months their home was a great ship, HMS Renown. Lead ship of a cla.s.s of two fast 26,500-ton battlecruisers, she was launched in Glasgow in 1916. Designed by the Admiralty to have great speed, she served with the Grand Fleet in the North Sea during the remaining two years of the Great War. In 191920 she carried the Prince of Wales on a voyage to Australasia and America. Since then she had been extensively refitted to increase her protection against gunfire and torpedoes and to carry the Duke and d.u.c.h.ess and their entourage around the world.
The tour was seen to be of great importance not only to the government of Australia, which had inspired it, but also to the King. After they had put to sea the Duke wrote to his father, "This is the first time you have sent me on a mission concerning the Empire, & I can a.s.sure you that I will do my very best to make it the success we all hope for."1 The British Empire was one of the most astonishing international organizations the world has ever seen. As we have noted, during the war a third of the troops that the mother country, Britain, had raised came from the Empire, and when the peace settlement of Versailles handed German colonies to the victors, the British Empire in the 1920s reached its greatest extent ever it covered a quarter of the world. But the price of victory had been immense and the costs of administering the expanded Empire grew ever less easy for Britain to support. Throughout the 1920s, the imperial defence budget was continually cut. The rationale was that after the Great War Britain would not be involved in another major war for at least ten years and that no expeditionary force was required for that purpose. The armed forces were therefore princ.i.p.ally to provide garrisons for India, Egypt and all other territories under British control. Manpower became scarcer and controlling the increasingly restless colonies between the wars became more and more difficult. The arrogance of power gave way to hesitation as the self-confidence vital to any imperialist venture gradually diminished. But in 1927 the Empire seemed still to be a permanent part of the world order. The Duke and d.u.c.h.ess had no reason to doubt its lasting strength before they set out from Portsmouth and almost everything that happened to them from then on confirmed that view.
Despite the importance which both the Australian and British governments attached to the trip, they were constrained to operate it within a very tight budget. In October the Dominions Office had pressed the Treasury as to whether a government grant-in-aid would be voted to help the Yorks" expenditure in undertaking the tour. The Prince of Wales, who was unmarried, had been given 25,000 for his tour of Canada, Australia and New Zealand in 191920. (When the King and Queen, as Duke and d.u.c.h.ess of York, had been to Australia twenty-five years before, they were allowed 20,000.) In the difficult economic circ.u.mstances following the General Strike, the government felt unable to provide as much. Basil Brooke wrote to the Treasury in November 1926: "His Royal Highness wishes me to emphasise the fact that the a.s.sistance for which he is asking is solely to meet expenses connected with the official and extraordinary nature of the tour. The Duke is fully prepared to pay out of his own purse any charges which he and the d.u.c.h.ess would normally be called upon to bear in their daily routine."2 In the end the government offered 3,500 up front with another 3,500 promised in March 1927. Of this 175 was apportioned, as a clothes allowance, to each of the five male members of the staff, 125 to each of the d.u.c.h.ess"s two ladies in waiting and 325 for the Duke and d.u.c.h.ess between them. They had to spend a great deal more out of their own resources to cover the expenses of the trip. Even so, several Labour Members of Parliament objected to the 7,000 grant the trip was referred to in Parliament as "a joy ride". It was in fact arduous.
One of the Duke and d.u.c.h.ess"s duties was to represent the trading interests not just of Britain herself, but of the whole British Empire. The Duke agreed to carry on board the All British Campaign"s "Emblem of Empire Industries". The British Industries Fair in Birmingham sent him a telegram of loyalty and support, referring to "the valuable service HRH is always willing to render to the development [of] British Trade".3 They were not only to travel in Renown, but also to use her as their base for much of the tour of Australia. The officer in charge of fitting the ship out, Admiral Parker, had been a little nervous about just what to do. In August 1926 he had written to Basil Brooke wondering whether the d.u.c.h.ess"s request that all the cabins be painted entirely blue was wise. "I do think she will be tired of all Blue."4 But the d.u.c.h.ess was fairly determined and even rejected the first blues that the Admiralty suggested, as she did the suggestion of stripes.5 Parker accepted the required blue, ordered more cushions and sent the ship"s barber to Trumper"s in Curzon Street, to learn how the Duke liked his hair cut. He worried that the ladies would be bored if they had nothing but their knitting to do on the long voyages, and arranged for the ship"s library to be supplemented the Times Book Club agreed to loan the ship 120 books for a charge of twelve guineas.6 The chosen selection very much reflected popular taste of the time: it included Edgar Wallace, P. G. Wodehouse and John Buchan all favourites of the d.u.c.h.ess John Galsworthy, Agatha Christie, Radclyffe Hall (whose notorious lesbian novel The Well of Loneliness she later described to a friend as "terrible"),7 John Masefield, Arthur Conan Doyle and "Sapper", the ultimate adventure-story writer.
Parkers of Piccadilly lent a selection of framed prints for the cabins in the hope that they would "help in some way to take away the bareness of the bulkheads and steel walls and make the suite a little more homelike for the cruise".8 Pathe Freres Cinema Ltd sent films for viewing on board they included three comedies starring Harold Lloyd and Bebe Daniels (Modes and Madness, Heap Big Chief, Hustling Harold), and two "song films with music" (Swanee River, Coming thro" the Rye).9 Alfred Hays" Gramophone Agency lent them an electric gramophone, while 78 rpm records were provided by the Gramophone Company and chosen according to Basil Brooke"s a.s.sessment of the Duke and d.u.c.h.ess"s tastes they included a selection of Kreisler, the Brahms Hungarian Dances, some of the older Harry Lauder songs, Gilbert and Sullivan and some Chopin.10 An Ampico Reproducing Piano was lent by Sir Herbert Marshall and Sons for shipboard dances. These clever machines reproduced foxtrots performed by some of the most celebrated pianists of the time. Like the gramophone, the piano endured much damage from rough seas on the voyage and needed serious repairs afterwards.11 The scale of the floating cellar was impressive, even for a six-month voyage for the Duke"s party often. There were more than sixty cases of vintage champagne from various suppliers, fifty-eight cases of the Duke"s favourite whisky, Buchanan"s, twelve cases of brandy from Justerini and Brooks, twelve cases of Gordon"s gin, French and Italian Vermouth, forty cases of port and eighteen cases of sherry, as well as over thirty cases of claret.12 The Duke and d.u.c.h.ess liked c.o.c.ktails before lunch and dinner and often drank champagne throughout the meal. (In 1931, when they made an official visit to Paris, this had to be explained to their bemused hosts.) Bulgarian cigarettes were provided by the navy. The Duke enjoyed smoking.
The Duke and d.u.c.h.ess could not have realized the extent to which the tour was to plunge them into the limelight across the Empire as never before. It would do a great deal to develop their sense of their own public personalities. This was one of the first royal tours to be organized along modern lines with the interests of the media taken (at least partly) into account. There was an official photographer, W. J. Fair, and two movie cameramen were a.s.signed to the tour. An official film was produced by the Commonwealth government of Australia and distributed by the European Motion Picture Company. A similar film was produced in New Zealand. Hundreds of thousands of people all over the world could thus share in the royal progress. Nor was the written word neglected. There was a writer in residence aboard Renown an Australian journalist, Taylor Darbyshire, who produced a book of the voyage.
The King had appointed the Earl of Cavan* as chief of staff for the tour. Cavan had commanded the Guards Brigade and then the Guards Division during the war and had served as Chief of the Imperial General Staff from 1922 to 1926. His wife Joan was asked to be one of the d.u.c.h.ess"s two ladies in waiting. Lord Cavan had rather a formal manner, and neither Duke nor d.u.c.h.ess was immediately drawn to him, but he represented them well, often in unseen ways.
Cavan"s task was to see that everything ran as smoothly as possible and that all the protocols and formalities demanded by the King, an exacting if distant supervisor of the tour, were met. The King was especially insistent that the Duke and d.u.c.h.ess should wear the correct dress for every different occasion. He sent frequent instructions, advice and complaints by coded telegram. (Fortunately, letters to and from London took weeks, sometimes more than a month, to arrive, which tended to diminish the urgency of some strictures.) The d.u.c.h.ess"s other lady in waiting, Victoria Gilmour,* was quite another matter. Known as Tortor, she proved to be a delightful companion and became a close and lifelong friend of the d.u.c.h.ess. Patrick Hodgson, the Duke"s Private Secretary, described her in a letter to Queen Mary, "Mrs Gilmour is also much liked and keeps us all amused. She is perhaps a little vague at times and has the most wonderful way of losing her own possessions which invariably are found in the one place "where she knows she never put them!" But these trifles are more than compensated for by her keenness and her companionship to the d.u.c.h.ess."13 Two equerries, Colin Buist and a newcomer, Major Terence Nugent, were also in the party, and the Duke was allotted a political secretary for the tour, Harry Batterbee, as the official representative of the British government. The party"s health was in the hands of Surgeon Commander H. E. Y. White, a physician who was to show his worth.
On the voyage out they went the Atlantic route, via Las Palmas, Jamaica and then through the Panama Ca.n.a.l to the Pacific. The weather was at first quite disagreeable there was a storm off Ushant and after the first night aboard the d.u.c.h.ess wrote in her diary, "Hardly slept at all last night, and kept on jumping up to put things away. Even the big gramophone fell over."14 The d.u.c.h.ess proved to be a hardier sailor than some of the others. She wrote to D"Arcy Osborne that the ship was "very beautiful in a clean large way" and the food was quite good. She begged him to write to her. "I already feel cut off."15 As the weather improved both Duke and d.u.c.h.ess made themselves popular with all ranks on board. The Duke made casual visits to the wardroom to talk to the senior officers, which pleased them. They dined with the junior officers in the gunroom and played charades and nursery games and danced the tango and Charleston with some of the midshipmen. The d.u.c.h.ess had time to rest and read and talk and above all to miss her daughter. "Felt depressed I miss the baby all the time, & am always wondering what she is doing," she noted in her diary.16 This was a constant, if private, agony for her through the entire voyage. There were diversions clay-pigeon shooting from the deck, the ship"s rifle range and squash court. Every Sunday there was a church service on board, at which the d.u.c.h.ess enjoyed the hearty singing of the crew.
On Monday 10 January they anch.o.r.ed off the Canary Islands in warm weather, but there was a heavy swell. Spanish officials in Las Palmas were supposed to come aboard but declined, saying that the sea was too rough. The Duke and d.u.c.h.ess were more adventurous. Indeed, the d.u.c.h.ess impressed all on board with her disdain for the waves. Lord Cavan wrote to the King that with "gazelle-like agility" she managed to get aboard the barge to be taken ash.o.r.e. It was hard to recognize the National Anthem as played by a local band. The British Consul and his wife were somewhat eccentric he was very deaf and appeared very old while she, according to Lord Cavan, had "steadfastly refused to change her fashion of clothing so I am told since the age of small waists, large sleeves & a bustle!"17 The next day Renown set sail for Jamaica. The first and relatively easy stage of the trip had gone well. But the criticism from the King had already begun. A telegram arrived from Clive Wigram, the King"s a.s.sistant Private Secretary, warning Cavan that the King objected to some of the press coverage of the tour. Cavan responded robustly, saying that the telegram had caused "some little disturbance". No offensive articles could have come from the journalists aboard because he personally vetted all messages they sent. Whatever caused upset in London "must therefore have come from some source for which I am not & obviously cannot be responsible".18 The King evidently complained also about descriptions of the d.u.c.h.ess"s clothing because Cavan insisted, "As regards "descriptions of clothing" Her Royal Highness"s departure frock from London & landing frock at Las Palmas are all that have been pa.s.sed by me & I may observe that if the authorized Pressmen are not to send this information, the uncensored Press of every place of landing most certainly will. However our three men will not mention the dresses worn except at official functions & this the public absolutely demand."19 Lord Cavan understood that strictures from the King could be very demoralizing for the young, nervous Duke and d.u.c.h.ess, for he wrote to Wigram: Very Private ...
This is not for HM eyes! I think you & I must realize that T.R.H. are both sensitive, frightfully anxious to do well & therefore they feel it more acutely than old warriors like myself, if the very first telegram from Home is couched in a critical vein. If H.M. by any chance ever does say an approving word, it wd work wonders, if a very short encouraging telegram cd be sent especially before the difficult & arduous work in Australia.
All is really going very well but T.R.H. get plunged into depths of woe if their efforts are misconstrued.
At Las Palmas none but British subjects wd have even attempted a landing. The Spanish Governors Civil & Military & Mayor made no effort to come on board! & so we most carefully said "By mutual arrangement the international courtesies were exchanged ash.o.r.e" tho" it is obvious that our people went through all the dangers & difficulties.
A word of recognition of this really plucky effort is the sort of "encouragement" that I refer to.20 Cavan"s plea evidently paid off some weeks later. On 21 February, after they had arrived at Auckland, he wrote to Wigram: "I cannot thank you enough for His Majesty"s splendidly timed message of encouragement just before arrival at Auckland." His letter crossed with one to him from Wigram saying that he hoped Their Majesties" message to the Duke and d.u.c.h.ess on arrival acted as "a good pick-me-up".21 On 20 January, when the Duke and d.u.c.h.ess landed at Kingston, the streets were lined with cheering people. The next three days provided the d.u.c.h.ess with her first glimpse of what a fully fledged tour could involve. At an evening reception, Lord Cavan told the Palace, more than a thousand guests "of all hues" pa.s.sed before Their Royal Highnesses. Although the Governor of Jamaica and Lord Cavan considered that it was unnecessary for them to venture beyond Kingston, the Duke and d.u.c.h.ess decided otherwise. On the second day of their three-day tour they visited the cathedral at Spanish Town and then went to a garden party in the centre of the island. People were delighted; this was the first time, they were told, that any member of the Royal Family had visited the interior. Cavan reported to the King that "The d.u.c.h.ess is looking so fresh and well."22 Back at the King"s House in Kingston the Duke"s enthusiasm for tennis was useful; he played a doubles match in which he partnered a Jamaican "of colour", one of the best players in the island, thus acknowledging equality among sportsmen and giving great satisfaction locally.23 This first short visit confirmed what was in little doubt: that the appeal of the d.u.c.h.ess"s personality worked as well abroad as at home, and that it would contribute greatly to the success of the tour. Lord Cavan sent the King an editorial from the Daily Gleaner of Kingston, describing how she "smiled her way into the hearts of the people ... her kindly glances, the sweetness of her manner, her whole att.i.tude of gracious charm have won for her a love which must last as long as those who have seen her shall live."24 The power of her smile became a leitmotif of the entire voyage. Praise of this kind was to be lavished on her throughout the many decades to come.
From Jamaica they began to sail into the heat. Cabin temperatures rose to an almost unbearable 86 degrees and they took to sleeping on deck. Their destination was one of the modern wonders of the world, the Panama Ca.n.a.l, carved through the isthmus only just as the First World War began, linking Atlantic and Pacific oceans for the first time. Many of the labourers on the Ca.n.a.l were British subjects from the West Indies who welcomed the couple warmly.25 The d.u.c.h.ess was intrigued by the extraordinary workings of the Ca.n.a.l. She watched as the ships were dragged into the locks by the "mules" little electric tractors on rails and then rose or fell as vast amounts of water were pumped in or out of the locks. From Panama she wrote to the Prince of Wales. Her letters to him were affectionate, frank and humorous, not unlike those she wrote to her brothers. She teased him for being a "naughty little wicked little Empire builder. You are also an Empire destroyer too, as in my daily radio news I read that the Prince of Wales helped to finish off the old Empire promenade & all."26* She told him of an archly flirtatious encounter with the President of Panama: "I have got off with the President here which was rather hot making. We had some interesting conversations with him ... The language of the eye I had to fall back on, and gee he fell too."27 The Duke"s account to his father of the same episode was more restrained: "the President of Panama came on board. He was not very exciting & spoke very little English."28 As they steamed through the Ca.n.a.l the Panamanian press was enchanted by the d.u.c.h.ess. Indeed the King complained again this time directly to his son that the newspapers were publishing "all sorts of stuff which we thought twaddle ... such as what clothes Elizabeth wore".29 This type of reportage, however, gives a vivid picture of the impression they made. One description stands out: "On the upper after deck stood a slight, slender English boy, dressed in the white uniform of a captain of the English Navy ... Beside him was a sweet, pretty, charming young woman gowned in a fetching morning gown of pale lavender and carrying a white silk parasol. The man raised his hand to his helmet in a salute, and the little woman waved her handkerchief in goodbye. These two personages were the Duke and d.u.c.h.ess of York."30 Great crowds waited for them as they went through the locks at Pedro Miguel. The local newspaper reported that "a young Britisher, resident on the isthmus, waved his hat and shouted to Her Royal Highness, "How"s the baby?" " At which "the d.u.c.h.ess leaned over the railing and replied "Baby"s fine." "31 In fact she was increasingly miserable about Princess Elizabeth; they both found the terse telegrams from Alah "ALL RIGHT KNIGHT" inadequate. Dr Still had dispatched his first report but, of course, it was still afloat on the ocean, with weeks to go before it was delivered. From Panama the d.u.c.h.ess telegraphed home, "No message arrived. Please send news at once."32 As they crossed the Pacific both the Duke and the d.u.c.h.ess seemed to dread the exhaustion that lay ahead. The Duke wrote to his brother complaining about the length and monotony of the voyage, and confessed that he had been feeling very depressed.33 They felt cut off from home; all the news they had was from the regular wireless bulletin "which only mentions China and football results", the d.u.c.h.ess told the Queen in early February. She fretted at the thought that her child might become unwell. "I do hope you like having the Baby, and that she continues to be well and happy, and no colds ... I miss her quite terribly, and the five weeks we have been away seem like five months."34 The Queen wrote to tell them that she had heard that Princess Elizabeth had "cut her first tooth which is good", news which could only emphasize all that they were missing. Queen Mary also complained that Dr Still had prevented Princess Elizabeth from visiting them at Sandringham because she had eye trouble and was teething: "this was a great disappointment to us but of course we agreed. As a matter of fact the weather here has been & is so much better than anywhere else that I think the fine air wld have done the child good."35 As soon as the King and Queen returned from Sandringham to London, the little Princess arrived to stay at Buckingham Palace. Queen Mary wrote: "she is looking too sweet & seems happy in her new surroundings, she was delighted with the parrot Charlotte this morning at breakfast & watched the bird eating pips with an air of absorption. How nice "Alla" is & baby is turned out too beautifully."36 The King wrote kindly about the Princess as well, but he was unable to resist making criticisms of his son"s appearance or sense of protocol when he saw fit. He had studied the press photographs of them in Las Palmas and wrote to the Duke, "I send you a picture of you inspecting Gd. of Honour (I don"t think much of their dressing) with yr. Equerry walking on yr. right next to the Gd. & you ignoring the Officer entirely. Yr. Equerry should be outside & behind, it certainly doesn"t look well." When the Duke eventually received this complaint at the other side of the world, he replied good-naturedly that he had noticed the same thing "& I can explain it easily. I had just finished inspecting the guard of honour and was walking back to join Elizabeth. Buist was taking a message from me. It was an unfortunate moment for the photograph to be taken."37 They spent a fortnight at sea, steaming south and west and when they reached the equator they both went through the traditional Crossing the Line Ceremony, with all due deference to King Neptune"s domain. The d.u.c.h.ess was presented with the Order of the Golden Mermaid by a member of the ship"s crew dressed as Queen Amphitrite.
They were much in demand on that empty ocean even the French population of Tahiti were hoping that Renown would call upon them. Instead they spent two days on the island of Nuka Hiva, in the French Marquises, Gauguin"s earthly paradise. It was a simple place; only about four ships a year called there. They found it a delight to leave the ship to walk, to fish and to bathe. One evening the islanders danced for them. The d.u.c.h.ess"s reaction was perceptive, if romantic; she wrote to Queen Mary that "it was really most remarkable, and very interesting. They are brown and the men quite nice-looking, but very diseased and are rapidly dying out. Instead of being strong healthy cannibals with strange religions and no clothes, they are now weakly half hearted Roman Catholics with European clothes. It seems all wrong, but that is what happens."38 The Duke and d.u.c.h.ess were by now fully able to enjoy the banter of shipboard life; she took pleasure in the dancing on the quarterdeck finding the midshipmen especially light on their feet. Patrick Hodgson, who had originally had some misgivings about whether the d.u.c.h.ess had understood the importance of the tour, was by now completely won over, writing to Queen Mary, "I now feel I was mistaken and that she is alive to all that is involved."39 Lord Cavan felt the same.40 They came to Fiji, which was then governed through the Dominion of New Zealand, on 17 February. They landed at Suva, where they presented walking sticks to the tribal chiefs, but the traditional dances of welcome could not take place because of an outbreak of measles. The heat was too intense for midday appointments but they made a late-afternoon drive upcountry to Rewa, visited the War Memorial Hospital and made a trip around the harbour in one of Renown"s launches.
The civic welcome was followed by a dinner and ball at the Governor"s House. The Fiji Times recorded the impression the d.u.c.h.ess made: she looked "radiant. She wore a lovely gown of ivory georgette heavily beaded, with a green rose on one side. She had a white tulle scarf, and carried a beautiful shaded pink feather fan. Her silver shoes had the heels studded with brilliants. She wore a charming diamond tiara and a valuable pearl necklace adorned her neck." The report of the ball was enlivened by an episode that conveyed both her sense of fun and her presence of mind, and contributed to a new image of the Royal Family. "When all the guests had shaken hands, a lone dog, which had managed to get into the ballroom, quietly trotted up to Her Royal Highness and held up its paw. The d.u.c.h.ess smilingly shook hands and patted doggy on the head. Apparently perfectly satisfied, the dog followed precedent and quietly pa.s.sed out of the hall."41 *
AS THEY HEADED south from Fiji, the temperatures began to drop to a delightful 78 degrees, which everyone enjoyed. They were able to gather their strength for the most important stages of the tour. Making their landfall in New Zealand had originally upset the Australian government, which had proposed the tour. The problem was that if the tour had begun in Australia instead, then the subsequent trip to New Zealand would have compelled the Duke and d.u.c.h.ess to endure the worst of New Zealand and Pacific winter weather. The Duke had been determined that his wife should not be subjected to any avoidable strain. In trying to persuade his government to accept this, the Australian High Commissioner in London, Richard Casey, went so far as to suggest that the d.u.c.h.ess"s medical advisers were anxious not to do anything which might prevent her from having another child, something ardently desired by the British public.42 In the end, the Australian government had accepted the decision with good grace.
Two days before they arrived in New Zealand, after a voyage lasting almost seven weeks, they received a cable from the King and Queen reminding them of the seriousness of their task: "You are about to land in New Zealand and start on the first stage of your mission; and we shall more than ever follow your doings with affectionate interest. There is a strenuous time before you but we know that you both will do everything to secure the success which has already attended your efforts."43 At dawn on 22 February Renown pa.s.sed through the straits into the bay of Waitemata, the port of Auckland. Later that morning, as rain fell heavily, they stepped ash.o.r.e to be greeted by the Governor General, Sir Charles Fergusson, and their official visit began.
The d.u.c.h.ess liked New Zealand and its people at once.44 And she made an impact on her hosts which one could call extraordinary were it not for the fact that it was becoming normal wherever she went. Lord Cavan reported to the King that she looked radiant as they landed and were taken to the packed town hall for the official welcome. There the Duke replied to the address. "It was really very well delivered," Cavan said, "and after the first two or three sentences it was fluently and forcefully spoken."45 The Duke was also pleased. He told his mother that he had had to make three speeches on the first day they arrived: "I had perfect confidence in myself & I did not hesitate at all. Logue"s teaching is still working well, but of course if I get tired, it still worries me."46 It had been intended that the New Zealand leg of the tour would be less demanding than that which awaited them in Australia. However, the long days of public exposure in New Zealand were exhausting for both of them. Their welcome was ecstatic and endless. Engagements were piled upon each other; as the Duke wrote to his mother, "these tours are always arranged by the Ministers whose one & only idea is more votes, and they see to it that we go to all the small towns in their const.i.tuencies."47 New Zealand had only a small police force of about a thousand men and there was no way they could keep control as the enthusiastic crowds stormed their visitors. In many places, their car (often roofless despite the rain) could scarcely move for the throngs that pressed around them. At one civic welcome the d.u.c.h.ess chose to carry, instead of the official bouquet, a posy of wild flowers tossed at her by a child at the roadside, bearing the message "G.o.d bless the wee baby Princess".
The New Zealand Herald noticed that the d.u.c.h.ess "smiled her way into the hearts of the people". This smile was even said to have touched a man who was well known as an active communist agitator in Auckland. On the second day of the visit he met Joseph Coates, the Prime Minister, and said to him, "I"ve done with this - Communism." Coates asked why such a sudden conversion had taken place and the man replied, "Why, they"re human! Yesterday I was in the crowd with the wife and one of the children waved his hand, and I"m blessed if the d.u.c.h.ess didn"t wave back and smile right into my face, not two yards away. I"ll never say a word against them again. I"ve done with it for good and all." Coates relayed this story to Sir Charles Fergusson who, in turn, sent it on to the King. The tale was retold by John Wheeler-Bennett, King George VI"s biographer, who used the incident to ill.u.s.trate his argument that "the vivid charm of the d.u.c.h.ess of York was a very real factor in the success of the tour. A more responsive personality than the Duke, she was able to complement his greater shyness by a radiance which carried all before it. "She shines and warms like sunlight," a young Scotsman wrote of her at this time."48 The Duke too rose to the challenge of the trip, if in a less demonstrative manner. His clearly sincere interest in the country and in the views of its people won him affection. His love of riding, fishing and shooting endeared him to a population which was dedicated to the sporting ethic. Both he and his wife were moved by the evidence of fidelity to the Crown that their visit produced. The d.u.c.h.ess wrote to Queen Mary, "The marvellous loyalty of the people of N.Z. is quite amazing, and any mention of "the King and Queen", "the Mother Country", "The Empire" or "Home" or any other expression brings out such very genuine and whole hearted cheers that it gives one quite a lump in the throat."49 Perhaps because of their forced parting from their daughter, both of them expressed a particular interest in children and their welfare. The Duke coined a phrase which he used often "Take care of the children and the country will take care of itself."50 They liked what they saw of the antipodean approach to children. The d.u.c.h.ess was able to a.n.a.lyse it for the Queen.
The children are so well looked after here so different to England, in that they come first in everything. They are taught to be loyal to the Crown before anything, and then they are taught to be well & healthy & clean. Everywhere that we have been, we have been intensely struck by the appearance of the children. Apparently the teachers are very good, and they have to take most stupendous oaths of loyalty to the Crown before they are allowed to teach. Considering that it is the Crown that keeps the Empire together, I think it is a pity they are not more particular about teachers at home.51 New Zealand was the home of Sir Truby King, the doyen of mothercraft and babycare in the first half of the twentieth century.* The d.u.c.h.ess of York already had a strong interest in his work and she had now the opportunity of directly supporting it. On 7 March, in Wellington, she opened the Karitane Home for babies and the training of nurses. She also visited Truby King at home and wrote to Queen Mary about his "most amazing work in lowering the death rate for babies. I hope that it will really spread in England, tho" of course his ideas will have to be adapted to suit conditions in England."52 With her new-formed enthusiasm, she described to her sister May how strong and healthy and good-looking the New Zealand children appeared. "Not like your puny, pale, small delicate & hideous children," she jokingly added, the badinage masking her desperate homesickness.53 But there was a consolation. Farming in New Zealand and the promise of new life and prosperity in Australia had drawn several generations of Scotsmen to settle there. Everywhere the d.u.c.h.ess went she was approached by kindly, welcoming people, many no less homesick than she, whose families had been tenants of her father"s, or who were the sort of people she would, as a girl, have encountered in Dundee or Montrose. She knew instinctively how to deal with her countrymen and women from north of the border. Out of the woodwork appeared people more intimately connected with the past. "I saw Mr Parker here!! I danced with him. He proposed to me during the war, but I don"t believe I ever answered him," the d.u.c.h.ess recounted to her sister.54 The New Zealand and Australian press both served a strongly matriarchal society. Women longed for details of the fashions brought from London by the d.u.c.h.ess, and whether the King liked it or not as he read the reports, her soft and feminine style was reported at length. "The d.u.c.h.ess of York ... was in periwinkle blue flowered georgette, draped at one side, worn under a beautiful wrap shot in blue and gold, with a heavy collar of squirrel fur lined with blue velvet in the same tone and a small hat turned up from the face in periwinkle blue." And again, "The d.u.c.h.ess of York was lovely in palest pink ninon encrusted with diamante and with a draping of tulle from the shoulder caught with a diamond and emerald pendant, with ropes of pearls."55 The Duke was beginning to feel that it was his wife they wanted to see, not him; she tried to a.s.sure him that it was not so. "All the sentimental twaddle they write about me is obviously absurd they always like a bit of romance, & the baby too helps the women to get silly horribly silly."56 The demands of the tour were so intense that it was hard to ensure that they had any free time. On their first Sunday morning, deferring worship until the evening at a Maori church, they motored to the Green and Blue Lake. The d.u.c.h.ess found the hot springs and geysers at Rotorua somewhat alarming she told Queen Mary, "I expect we saw much the same things that you did in 1901. I must say I hated walking round the geysers, although I was so interested, thinking that every moment we would all disappear through a thin crust into the unknown!"57 More welcome was a weekend fishing trip. In the Bay of Islands, the Duke caught a 150-pound shark and the d.u.c.h.ess had "considerable success with a snapper".58 On another happy fishing break they were the guests of the New Zealand government at the Kowhai fishing camp at Tokaanu, which they loved. "The most marvellous camp I have ever seen," the Duke wrote in his tour diary. "All tents beautifully furnished & fitted up with electric light & a water supply even in the lavatories." Nothing was caught to equal the Duke"s shark, but the d.u.c.h.ess had a small triumph. "I found Elizabeth playing an 8 lb trout which she landed, & was highly delighted. Her first trout in her life," the Duke recorded.59 It was the first of many in a long life of happy fishing. Looking less than regal, but clutching her rod, she smiles with pleasure out of the photographs.
In his rather dry report back to the King, Lord Cavan praised the Duke for his new confidence and said that the d.u.c.h.ess "has been quite splendid; she never appears to be tired".60 Alas, he was wrong. Taylor Darbyshire"s account of the trip, The Royal Tour of the Duke and d.u.c.h.ess of York, describes how, at this point, the exhaustion of the long days of public exposure finally defeated her. "The pace set, necessarily, was rather fast, and the combined exertion of sitting erect all day smiling as only the d.u.c.h.ess can smile at all the spectators at the roadside, or meeting the local dignitaries at the half-dozen towns which were pa.s.sed through, proved too much."61 It was thought that dust from the roads might have settled on her throat, and she was too exhausted to resist it having a toxic effect. At root, the programme was far too crowded and she was completely exhausted.
By the evening of 9 March she had a temperature of 102 degrees and her tonsils were inflamed. There was alarm among the party; Surgeon Commander White, the medical officer in Renown, advised her that it was impossible for her to continue in this condition. She bowed to his advice. Her illness was a serious blow for the Duke. His staff knew that he could be "nervy" and snap when he was tired62 and this happened more often when his wife was not around to soothe him. Sure that she was the major attraction for the eager crowds, his first thought was to cancel the remainder of the tour, to the South Island of New Zealand.63 South Island was expected to be harder the mining communities were thought unlikely to be so welcoming. "It is a political tragedy that the d.u.c.h.ess could not go to Westport to soften the hard miners," wrote Lord Cavan.64 The prospect of tackling them alone was daunting for the Duke. But he decided that duty demanded that he do it, and so he did.
"Next day"s journey began under saddened circ.u.mstances. The d.u.c.h.ess had so identified herself with the life and spirits of the party that everybody felt that some savour had gone out of the tour," wrote Darbyshire.65 But the Duke"s spirit in shouldering the rest of the tour alone was much admired, and he earned unexpected ovations from the miners of South Island. In country districts people "thronged about him with a gladness and a sympathetic loyalty that was the warmer for their appreciation of his coming to them at the cost of a certain self-sacrifice".66 Harry Batterbee commented to Lord Stamfordham that the Duke"s journey was politically important "& did a great deal of good in encouraging the conservative as opposed to the bolshevist element".67 The crowds at last convinced him that it was for him they cheered, not just his wife.
The d.u.c.h.ess, meanwhile, rested in the less than luxurious Commercial Hotel in Nelson. After three days" total rest she was well enough to sail in Renown back to Wellington where she convalesced at Government House under the care of Commander White. She finally met Lady Alice Fergusson, the wife of the Governor General, who had been ill and unable to receive the Duke and d.u.c.h.ess on their arrival in New Zealand. The two invalids recuperated in deckchairs in the sunshine.
During this enforced separation she and her husband exchanged letters which testify to their feelings for each other. She told him that everyone had been very kind to her in Nelson "the baker sent me bread, the bookseller books, the ladies cakes & flowers, the fruiterer pears and grapes". It was wonderful but not quite enough "all I wanted really was a nice comforting kiss from you." She knew how much easier it was for them to work as a pair: "when you tackle the Mayor, I can tackle the Mayoress!" But she thought the way he carried on was marvellous and she tried to rea.s.sure him that she was not the only focus of attention. "Darling when you are feeling very depressed and tired, remember what wonderful work you are doing. They all loved you in N Island, and quite rightly." She feared that she had shown the weakness of her s.e.x. "I never dreamt that I would be such a failure, but no doubt women are not made for the life we were leading, or men either if it comes to that ... Well darling, I do pray that you will get through this nightmare of a programme, and I shall only look forward to the moment when I shall see you again. I send you all my love and hundreds of kisses & several hugs."68 The Duke replied from Christchurch. "My own little darling E, I have just received your darling letter which has spurred me on to greater efforts. Millions and millions of thanks for it you darling; it is just what I wanted & nothing could have given me greater help and encouragement." He agreed that the work was too much for one person alone and he missed her terribly every day. But it was only a week to go before they met again; meanwhile she should not worry about him, but should just "have a real rest and get the throat strong again".69 From Wellington the d.u.c.h.ess also wrote to her sister May. "The programme here was simply ghastly, & I stuck it for 16 days, & then suddenly cracked. It"s really not a suitable life for women & we are having fearful trouble to keep the Australian programme down. They cannot believe that we are made of flesh and blood ... so if you see me coming home old & haggard & ugly, don"t be surprised!"70 Back in London, the King was both sympathetic and concerned. The real goal Australia was still ahead and for this the d.u.c.h.ess must recover her strength.71 He hoped, he wrote to the Duke, "that she will arrive in Australia quite fresh & well. If you find she is getting tired, she must do less, otherwise she will get ill again. You have certainly been through a strenuous time." The couple were finally reunited on board Renown off Bluff, a desolate place on the southern tip of South Island. The weather was so bad that day that the official embarkation plans had to be sc.r.a.pped and the Duke was taken out to the ship in the harbour tug, the only vessel which could stand the high seas caused by a north-westerly gale against the tide. In squalls of wind and rain, his wife watched as he tried to board. She reported to Lady Alice Fergusson, "I was glad to be on board when I saw my husband being thrown (literally) from the bridge of the tug on to our quarterdeck at Bluff. It looked most unpleasant, but he did not seem to mind much."72 As they set sail for Sydney, there seemed little doubt that the tour of New Zealand had been an outstanding success, in spite of the d.u.c.h.ess"s illness. Sir Charles Fergusson wrote to the King, "from New Zealand"s point of view it could not possibly have given greater pleasure."73 *
SAt.u.r.dAY 26 MARCH 1927 was a perfect autumn morning in Sydney. Renown glided past The Heads and into one of the greatest natural harbours in the world. The bays were filled with boats which had come out to greet the battlecruiser, but they had all been requested to refrain from hooting or whistling while she was under way. The silence made her arrival all the more impressive. She dropped anchor in front of Admiralty House exactly to the minute scheduled, whereupon a cacophony of welcome broke out.
The Duke and d.u.c.h.ess then had their first taste of the intense political rivalries which have always characterized Australia and which complicated their visit. They had been invited by the Federal government to visit all of the states in the Commonwealth of Australia. But since they were landing in Sydney, the government of New South Wales demanded the right to welcome them. This was objected to by other state governments and by the Commonwealth government. No one would budge and the impa.s.se was solved only by building a pontoon into the harbour and declaring it to be Federal territory. On this stick of wood the Federal ministers performed the first greetings and, a few yards behind them on the sh.o.r.e, the ministers of the government of New South Wales waited to favour the Duke and d.u.c.h.ess with a repeat of the process.
Politics aside, the welcome was remarkable. Lord Stonehaven, the Governor General, felt that the pride and happiness of the Australian people in receiving such a royal visit was a tribute to the strength of the British Empire.74 Some of the visiting party were a little more surprised by the rather raucous and familiar nature of Australian society. Everything seemed much rougher than in New Zealand, including the press. There was great good humour, but less organization and less reverence. At every turn the Australians loudly cheered not only their royal guests, but also their little daughter, whom everyone referred to as Princess Betty. The Duke may have been surprised that he was repeatedly greeted by shouts of "Albie!"75 It quickly became clear that in Australia there was little concept of fatigue. One of the greatest problems for the couple"s staff was to ensure that their programme was not completely overloaded. Everyone was worried lest the d.u.c.h.ess fall ill again. That first weekend was already crowded. They attended a ball at the town hall, divine service in St Andrew"s Cathedral, and a garden party. They also undertook a tour of the Prince of Wales Repatriation Hospital for sick and disabled war veterans. The visit was more harrowing than might have been expected; by mistake they were led into a room where a woman was weeping beside her dying husband.76 The weather did not favour the garden party the royal visitors and their hosts took tea under cover watched by about 2,000 people standing in the rain with, apparently, scarcely 200 umbrellas between them.77 Later, while the Duke of York received an honorary degree from Sydney University, the d.u.c.h.ess attended a large reception given in her honour by the National Women"s Council, whose members, according to a scandalized Lord Cavan, were the only people who behaved badly: "When the d.u.c.h.ess got there they not only presented an address but called her "the Representative of the Queen"!! Luckily we just managed to stop the address going to the Press but if it does leak out please explain to His Majesty that Batterbee and the Governor were both a.s.sured that there wd be no such thing."78 The children of New South Wales presented her with a gold and silver tea-set for "Princess Betty".
The King was delighted with the enthusiastic reception reported in the British press. He wrote to his son: "I hope Elizabeth will not do too much & rest as soon as she feels she is getting tired ... Your daughter is very flourishing & is more delightful every day & more pleased with herself."79 Queen Mary was more forthcoming, writing to the Duke, "Baby is as sweet as ever, she is so lively always trying to jump & to stand up, & makes funny little noises & screams & shouts for fun, really too delightful, happy & carefree." A week later the King and Queen went to Windsor Castle "bringing with us in our car your adorable child who was awfully good, giving shrieks of delight at each dog she saw".80 By now Dr Still had sent the d.u.c.h.ess several more reports on the Princess"s progress. In early February she was trying to stand on her nurse"s lap. A month later she was sitting up, was above average weight and had discovered how to roll over and over and how to wave goodbye and say "Ta-Ta". By the end of March she was growing fast, cutting more teeth and could now say "By-ee". She enjoyed listening to the band outside the Palace.81 So as not to detract in any way from the princ.i.p.al purpose of the royal couple"s presence in Australia the opening of the new Federal Parliament their engagements were carefully selected to serve a few chosen patronages. Much of their programme reflected Australian reverence for the Anzacs (Australia and New Zealand Army Corps the soldiers who had fought in the Great War). They progressed northwards from Sydney towards Queensland and Brisbane, inspecting returned sailors, soldiers, nurses, Boy Scouts and Girl Guides. The schedule was punishing. They stopped at a bewildering array of places whose names were either curiously familiar or else phonetic aborigine: Newcastle, Wallangarra, Stanthorpe, Warwick, Clifton, Toowoomba, Gatton, Laidley, Ipswich. Near Blackheath the d.u.c.h.ess laid the foundation stone of the Anzac Memorial Hospital at Govett"s Leap.
She had many communications from soldiers who had convalesced at Glamis and officers who had been entertained at St James"s Square during the war, and she made certain that as many as possible could get through the barriers of officialdom to speak to her.82 Expatriate Scots competed with old soldiers for her attention. A Mrs Leach, whose husband farmed at Borung in Victoria, wrote about her grandfather who had served his apprenticeship as a painter-decorator at Glamis. Mr and Mrs Leach had called their farm Glamis. Miss Vivian Eastland wrote from St Kilda, "It was very difficult seeing you on Thursday to realise that you were the little girl of 4 years I last saw in Glamis Castle nursery when I was maid to Lady Mary and Lady Rose, who I hope are both well; your nurse Clara [Alah] was very kind to me & I often amused you while she did your pretty hair, because it used to get in such tangles."83 The Duke and d.u.c.h.ess finally reached Brisbane on the afternoon of 6 April. They had been told to expect the capital of Queensland to be unsympathetic. In fact their reception could not have been more enthusiastic. Their progress through the streets was constantly delayed by the unexpectedly huge crowds and by people desperate to present the d.u.c.h.ess with bouquets and presents. Batterbee wrote in amazement to a colleague in the Colonial Office, "Anything like the enthusiasm of the welcome at Brisbane, which is supposed to be the home town of Bolshevism, I have never seen. The Labour Ministers there simply tumbled over themselves to get near the Duke and d.u.c.h.ess."84 The d.u.c.h.ess genuinely liked Forgan Smith, the acting Premier of Queensland they got on very well when she discovered he came from Longforgan. He later sent her some samples of Queensland timbers in which she had expressed an interest. "The people were so nice and friendly, even tho" they are called the Bolshie State ... The children are so healthy to look at, but very spoilt, and completely without discipline," she informed the Queen. "Please forgive me for setting out my opinions in this manner. They are probably completely wrong, but just what I think personally, and only after a glance really!"85 By now they were aware that they had reached the middle of their tour and were looking forward to completing the second half. In Queensland they were able to rest a few days on a cattle station named Tamrook.u.m; the weather was lovely warm with cool breezes. The Duke enjoyed mustering cattle and the d.u.c.h.ess liked the gra.s.s, the trees and the hills she thought it was the prettiest place they had been to. She told her mother, "The people are so nice and friendly, & the distances are so vast that it keeps them simple ... all the Scotch people are very glad to see me!! They are so nice & sentimental about each other." All the governments were Labor, while that of New South Wales "is composed of very Red people". But she got on well with them all; she thought the trip was a success. "One forgets that the people are terribly loyal, & never see anybody, so it is very hard work."86 But it was worth while; as the Duke told his father, "The people here have got a most wonderful spirit of loyalty to you & the Empire."87 Patrick Hodgson wrote to Queen Mary, "Her Royal Highness has captivated everyone with her charm of manner."88 Public perceptions of her seemed to verge on adoration. Schoolgirls travelled hundreds of miles from outback sheep stations to see her. A blind girl wrote in Braille: "Mother has described you to me, and I know just how sweet and dainty you are"; she received a reply saying that the d.u.c.h.ess was "greatly touched" by her "kind message of welcome". Another girl wrote, "I was so happy when Mummie told me she had seen you at the Royal Garden Party. She said you looked like a beautiful fairy Princess in your beautiful dress and diamonds. We are quite lonely now you are gone."89 It may be hard to credit in a more blase and cynical age, but the upward turning of her face and her constant smile fired the imaginations of many women and girls. An old widow saw her smile, and her "loneliness and weakness were forgotten". A schoolgirl enlarged on the theme of "how pleased the poor wounded soldiers must have been to have you hovering near their bedside."90 From Brisbane they returned to Sydney and embarked again in Renown for Tasmania. They found the weather there chilly after the heat of Queensland. Their welcome in Hobart, the capital, was affectionate but quieter than in either Brisbane or Sydney. They visited Launceston as well, if only to slake the bitter rivalry between the two towns. "We are leading a strenuous life & opportunities for rest get fewer as time goes on," the Duke wrote to his father.91 The d.u.c.h.ess was beginning to feel the strain again; fortunately they were able to rest at the sheep station of the Cameron family at Mona Vale.
From Tasmania Renown set course for Melbourne and, though the sea was rather rough, the d.u.c.h.ess had time to compose a letter to Queen Mary. "I am afraid I have not written for a long time, but we have been so terribly busy, that letters are extremely difficult to write." She hated to admit physical weakness, but she did not conceal how hard she had found it all. "I think this sort of tour is far too strenuous for a woman, and I do get terribly tired." Suggesting discreetly that it was much harder than when Queen Mary had been in Australia as d.u.c.h.ess of York in 1901, she added, "Of course wireless, cars and the Press complicate things enormously, and one is expected to do the impossible, with never a moment"s rest." But she was conscious of the good the tour was doing her husband. After commenting on the unfortunate Australian political rivalries and jealousies, she said, "Bertie has been wonderful, and is far less shy & more sure of himself. I expect this Tour will mean a great deal to him. Do you remember you told me at Sandringham what a help such experience would be to him?"92 As they approached Melbourne, the cruisers escorting Renown fired a twenty-one-gun salute to mark the first birthday of Princess Elizabeth. Missing her dreadfully, the Duke and d.u.c.h.ess sent their daughter a birthday telegram. At Windsor, Queen Mary wrote in her diary on 21 April, "Beautiful day. Darling baby"s first birthday. We gave her lots of presents after breakfast." The King recorded that they gave her a jewelled safety-pin brooch, frocks and toys. "She gazed on everything & beamed & I think rather liked it all."93 Next day the Duke and d.u.c.h.ess received a telegram: "I send you my best love on my first birthday and thank you for telegram. Wish you were here with me. I have lots of lovely presents. Hope to see you very soon. Little Elizabeth."94 Subsequently more reports, including "a birthday review", arrived from Dr Still. In one he informed the Duke and d.u.c.h.ess that the Princess now weighed twenty-three pounds and "You will be delighted with her, she is so sweet, and it is not merely sweet looks but a sweet nature that makes her such a darling." Nonetheless, "when Her Royal Highness decides that things are not just as she requires, she is becoming very emphatic in saying so, in fact proceeded to battery and a.s.sault upon Nurse once when not allowed to come to me today: you will have to come home and do the Stern Mother!" Her vocabulary was growing she had pointed to the electric light "and said distinctly: "Yight" ".95 Meanwhile, Melbourne was preparing itself. The Argus reported that day, "Everything possible has been done to make the programme worthy of the occasion. The city is bright with colour that will give it a carnival aspect by day, while by night the streets will be ablaze with illumination. All that remains now is for the army of the people, an army that will probably number 500,000, to do their part."
The royal couple stepped ash.o.r.e to be welcomed by a large number of schoolchildren singing the National Anthem and waving. The d.u.c.h.ess seemed delighted and repeatedly waved at them, which pleased them. According to the Argus, she was wearing "a small blue hat with a large cl.u.s.ter of blue velvet forget-me-nots which drooped over the brim at one side, and these exactly matched her blue eyes". The paper described her as pet.i.te and slender, with rose-petal skin and grace and charm. "Then there is the smile of which so much has been heard, and the strange thing is that everyone who has seen it feels it is for him or her alone. It seems to create an intimacy which, while purely imaginary, is nonetheless delightful."
They drove in a horse-drawn carriage down the fine processional route of St Kilda"s Avenue into the city, Sydney"s historic rival. Just as they entered the grounds of Federal Government House, a terrible thing happened. The wingtips of two of the planes in their Royal Australian Air Force escort touched and the planes crashed, killing the crews in front of their eyes. The d.u.c.h.ess, already under strain, was very upset and, although she continued with the programme for the next two days, Commander White decided she should spend the weekend resting at Government House. The Duke sent a message of heartfelt sympathy.96 Three days later, on 25 April, came Anzac Day, perhaps the most emotional in the Australian and New Zealand calendar, evoking memories of sacrifice in Flanders, Palestine and above all Gallipoli. Thousands upon thousands of people from all over Victoria poured into Melbourne to see the salute taken by the son of the monarch in whose name those sacrifices had been made. After laying a wreath on the Cenotaph in front of Parliament House, the Duke joined the Governor General and the Governor on the saluting base. Renown"s Marine Band led the parade, followed by Australia"s most distinguished officer, General Sir John Monash, and his staff. Then 25,000 men from all over Australia and New Zealand marched past, almost all in plain clothes but wearing all their medals, including twenty-nine recipients of the Victoria Cross. According to Lord Cavan, they marched "with a glorious swing pride in themselves, and first rate dressing".97 After the march-past the d.u.c.h.ess and her ladies in waiting set off for Government House but were prevented from leaving by "one of Australia"s really extraordinary outbursts", as Lord Cavan described it. The crowds surged forward, with the police powerless to stop them. Dozens of people climbed on to the car. "However, with the curious instinct that just prevents an Australian undisciplined crowd from going too far, the situation was saved by a lot of Diggers* forming a voluntary ring round the d.u.c.h.ess" car, and so allowing it to progress at a yard a minute to Government House."98 Commander White continued to keep a close eye on his charge, determined to restrict her programme whenever necessary to ensure she got through the remaining three weeks which were to culminate in the all-important ceremony in Canberra. From Melbourne they proceeded to Ballarat and Adelaide, where 12,000 people attended a public reception and 12,000 children then danced for them. En route to Canberra they rested privately with Mr and Mrs Macfarlane of Tailem Bend, where the Duke took part in the unusual sport of a kangaroo hunt and the d.u.c.h.ess joined the picnic party. And then it was on to Canberra.
The new capital of the Commonwealth could not have been more different from the vibrant cities of Sydney and Melbourne it was little more than a village set in fields filled with grazing cattle and sheep. When the Prince of Wales had visited it in 1920, he had called Canberra "a city of hope and foundation stones". Now many of those foundations had grown buildings upon them but Canberra was still tiny and pastoral.99 The ceremony was imperial. On the warm, sunny morning of 9 May the Duke and d.u.c.h.ess travelled in a procession of carriages, with postilions dressed in scarlet and outriders in perukes and c.o.c.kaded hats, to the new Parliament House. The Duke had slept badly and was nervous, because he understood only too well that this was a momentous occasion for Commonwealth, for Crown and for himself.100 He inspected the guard of honour and was then presented with a golden key by the Australian Prime Minister, Stanley Bruce, and invited to unlock the door of the new building. At his own insistence, he then spoke on the steps to the crowds outside; many thought it the most moving speech he made on the whole tour. On this day, he said, "one feels the stirrings of a new birth, of quickened national activity, of a fuller consciousness of your destiny as one of the great self-governing units of the British Empire." This was the beginning of a new epoch, a moment to dream "of better things".101 Dame Nellie Melba sang "G.o.d Save the King" and the procession entered Parliament House. After formally unveiling the statue of King George V in the King"s Hall the Duke sat in the chair of the President of the Senate with the d.u.c.h.ess near by. Conditions were not ideal: the Senate Chamber was small and the lights of the film cameramen increased the temperature to 80 degrees within minutes. (The film of the event was distributed by Pathe News the first time members of the Royal Family were seen around the Empire taking part in such a ceremony.) But the Duke spoke well, saying that the British Empire had advanced to a new concept of autonomy "to the idea of a system of British nations, each freely ordering its own individual life, but bound together in unity by allegiance to one Crown and co-operating with one another in all that concerns the common weal".102 After a fanfare of trumpets and a twenty-one-gun salute, the clock struck twelve and the Parliament of the Commonwealth was open. The only sadness in an otherwise flawless event was the death of another pilot, Flying Officer F. E. Ewen, whose plane crashed in front of Parliament House during a review of troops that afternoon. The Duke and d.u.c.h.ess were shocked and sent a wreath; Ewen"s mother later wrote to thank them.
Their journey was almost done. From Canberra they returned to Melbourne to rejoin Renown. They chose to make the last part of the journey in open cars and stopped at the town halls of South Melbourne to say goodbye. After sailing from Melbourne on 12 May, they had a rough crossing of the Great Australian Bight. The d.u.c.h.ess related to the King, "I got washed out of bed at 3 am by a huge sea which crashed suddenly over the ship, & I had to spend an hour drying my hair at the radiator! I could not help laughing, but it was very annoying too."103 They had one more Australian destination, Fremantle, the princ.i.p.al port in Western Australia, where they had to gird themselves one more time for the familiar programme of addresses, bouquets, speeches, openings and inspections. Their effect on the crowds and the press there was the same as in the rest of the continent. The Albany Dispatch recorded, in unusually purple prose, that the d.u.c.h.ess persuaded her husband, anxious to keep to the timetable, to make an impromptu stop at the Anzac Memorial Hospital at Albany.
The Duke was obdurate ... Then happened the little incident which is being repeated in the backblock homesteads to the mothers and the children there ... it is with a tremble of the voice and a glistening of the eye that the little Royal Lady, having the true heart of a woman and the gracious grandeur of a queen, begs her lord to accede to the request, and he consents to do so ... in the days that are yet to be, the most memorable spot along that road will be the Anzac Memorial Hospital, which his wife"s plea induced a prince to visit.
After they had finally embarked in Renown for home, one man in the crowd in Perth wrote to the d.u.c.h.ess to say that he had heard the remark of a twelve-year-old schoolboy who had seen her pa.s.s: " "She looked at me and I got a smile too" ... I could judge by the tone of his voice you had won his little heart." He ended, "Hoping that if one day the people of the British Empire are fortunate enough to have you as our Queen, you will not lose the power of your winning smile nor your happy service of kindly thought and deed."104 *
IT WAS AN appropriate tribute to the d.u.c.h.ess and to her husband. They had each discovered qualities and powers within themselves of which they had scarcely known. Sir Tom Bridges, Governor of South Australia, wrote to the King, "His Royal Highness has touched people profoundly by his youth, his simplicity and his natural bearing, while the d.u.c.h.ess has had a tremendous ovation and leaves us with the responsibility of having a continent in love with her."105 Oth