Antonia Gasthuismolensteeg 1820 (Grachtengordel west) 020/320 9443, Gasthuismolensteeg 1820 (Grachtengordel west) 020/320 9443, www.antoniabyyvette.nl. High-fashion shoes, slippers and handbags spread over two smallish shops. Mon noon6pm, TuesSat 10am6pm (Thurs till 8pm), Sun 15pm.

Hemp Works Nieuwendijk 13 (Old Centre) 020/421 1762. Not all hemp is like sackcloth check out the silky hemp shirts, fleeces and jeans in this clothing store that sells nothing but clothes made from the stuff. MonWed 11am7pm, ThursSat 11am9pm, Sun 11am7pm. Nieuwendijk 13 (Old Centre) 020/421 1762. Not all hemp is like sackcloth check out the silky hemp shirts, fleeces and jeans in this clothing store that sells nothing but clothes made from the stuff. MonWed 11am7pm, ThursSat 11am9pm, Sun 11am7pm.

Cora Kemperman Leidsestraat 72 (Grachtengordel south) 020/625 1284, Leidsestraat 72 (Grachtengordel south) 020/625 1284, www.corakemperman.nl. Well-made, elegant, relaxed designer womenswear that won"t break the bank. Mon noon6pm, TuesSat 10am6pm (Thurs till 9pm), Sun noon6pm.

Laundry Industry Spui 1 (Old Centre) 020/420 2554. On the corner of the Rokin, this Dutch clothing brand does chic, youthful clothes for women and men. There"s another branch in Magna Plaza (Old Centre) and a third at Van Baerlestraat 76 (Museum Quarter and Vondelpark). Mon 11am6.30pm, TuesFri 10am6.30pm (Thurs till 9pm), Sat 10am6pm, Sun noon6pm. Spui 1 (Old Centre) 020/420 2554. On the corner of the Rokin, this Dutch clothing brand does chic, youthful clothes for women and men. There"s another branch in Magna Plaza (Old Centre) and a third at Van Baerlestraat 76 (Museum Quarter and Vondelpark). Mon 11am6.30pm, TuesFri 10am6.30pm (Thurs till 9pm), Sat 10am6pm, Sun noon6pm.

Linhard Van Baerlestraat 50 (Museum Quarter and Vondelpark) 020/679 0755. Cheerful, fairly priced clothes. Mon 16pm, TuesFri 10am6pm, Sat 10am5.30pm. Van Baerlestraat 50 (Museum Quarter and Vondelpark) 020/679 0755. Cheerful, fairly priced clothes. Mon 16pm, TuesFri 10am6pm, Sat 10am5.30pm.



Local Service Keizersgracht 400 (Grachtengordel west) 020/626 6840. Men"s and women"s fashions. Ultra-trendy in an alternative kind of way but expensive. At Runstraat. MonFri 10am6pm (Thurs till 7.30pm), Sat 10am5pm, Sun 15.30pm. Keizersgracht 400 (Grachtengordel west) 020/626 6840. Men"s and women"s fashions. Ultra-trendy in an alternative kind of way but expensive. At Runstraat. MonFri 10am6pm (Thurs till 7.30pm), Sat 10am5pm, Sun 15.30pm.

Margriet Nannings Prinsenstraat 8 (Grachtengordel west) 020/620 7672. Pricey designer clothes for women, mostly casual chic. Cla.s.sy handbags and jewellery too. There"s also a menswear shop next door at Prinsenstraat 6. Mon 16pm, TuesSat 10.30am6pm (Thurs till 8pm). Prinsenstraat 8 (Grachtengordel west) 020/620 7672. Pricey designer clothes for women, mostly casual chic. Cla.s.sy handbags and jewellery too. There"s also a menswear shop next door at Prinsenstraat 6. Mon 16pm, TuesSat 10.30am6pm (Thurs till 8pm).

[image]Marlies Dekkers Berenstraat 18 (Grachtengordel west) 020/421 1900, Berenstraat 18 (Grachtengordel west) 020/421 1900, www.marliesdekkers.com. Holland"s most successful lingerie designer, known for her daring collection and stylish shop displays. Mon 16pm, TuesWed 11am6pm, Thurs 11am7pm, Sat 10am8pm, Sun noon5pm.

Robin"s Bodywear Nieuwe Hoogstraat 20 (Old Centre) 020/620 1552. Great lingerie and swimwear shop, with all the designer names and good, personal service. Mon 16pm, TuesSat 11am6pm. Nieuwe Hoogstraat 20 (Old Centre) 020/620 1552. Great lingerie and swimwear shop, with all the designer names and good, personal service. Mon 16pm, TuesSat 11am6pm.

Rodolfo"s Sarphatistraat 59 (Outer districts) 020/623 1214. Huge collection of skates and skateboards, plus the latest matching fashions. Mon noon6pm, TuesSat 10am6pm (Thurs till 9pm). Sarphatistraat 59 (Outer districts) 020/623 1214. Huge collection of skates and skateboards, plus the latest matching fashions. Mon noon6pm, TuesSat 10am6pm (Thurs till 9pm).

Sissy Boy Leidsestraat 15 (Grachtengordel south) 020/623 8949, Leidsestraat 15 (Grachtengordel south) 020/623 8949, www.sissyboy.nl. Simply designed but cla.s.sy and affordably priced clothes for men and women. A number of designer labels are featured here. Also at six other locations in Amsterdam. Mon 11am6pm, TuesSat 9.30am6pm (Thurs till 9pm), Sun noon5pm.

Solid Haarlemmerdijk 20 (Jordaan and Western docklands) 020/627 4114. Interesting and hip womenswear from well-known designers. Mon 16pm, TuesSat 10am6pm. Haarlemmerdijk 20 (Jordaan and Western docklands) 020/627 4114. Interesting and hip womenswear from well-known designers. Mon 16pm, TuesSat 10am6pm.

ShoppingShops ShopsClothes and accessories Clothes and accessoriesSecondhand/vintage clothes Daffodil Jacob Obrechtstraat 41 (Museum Quarter and Vondelpark) 020/679 5634. Right behind the Concertgebouw, this store sells secondhand designer labels only. TuesFri noon6pm, Sat noon5pm. Jacob Obrechtstraat 41 (Museum Quarter and Vondelpark) 020/679 5634. Right behind the Concertgebouw, this store sells secondhand designer labels only. TuesFri noon6pm, Sat noon5pm.

Episode Berenstraat 1 (Grachtengordel west) 020/626 4679. One of the larger secondhand stores, with everything from army jackets to hats, fur coats, shoes and belts, specializing in stock from the 1970s and 1980s. Mon & Sun 16pm, TuesWed 11am6pm, Thurs 11am8pm, Fri 11am7pm, Sat 10am7pm. Berenstraat 1 (Grachtengordel west) 020/626 4679. One of the larger secondhand stores, with everything from army jackets to hats, fur coats, shoes and belts, specializing in stock from the 1970s and 1980s. Mon & Sun 16pm, TuesWed 11am6pm, Thurs 11am8pm, Fri 11am7pm, Sat 10am7pm.

Jojo Huidenstraat 23 (Grachtengordel west) 020/623 3476. If you"re hankering after a natty suit with a certain vintage cut, this charmingly antiquated gentlemen"s outfitters has plenty. There are also shirts and ties in a myriad of colours plus some rather nifty accessories. Mon noon6pm, TuesSat 11am6pm (Thurs till 7pm), Sun 26pm. Huidenstraat 23 (Grachtengordel west) 020/623 3476. If you"re hankering after a natty suit with a certain vintage cut, this charmingly antiquated gentlemen"s outfitters has plenty. There are also shirts and ties in a myriad of colours plus some rather nifty accessories. Mon noon6pm, TuesSat 11am6pm (Thurs till 7pm), Sun 26pm.

[image]Lady Day Hartenstraat 9 (Grachtengordel west) 020/623 5820, Hartenstraat 9 (Grachtengordel west) 020/623 5820, www.ladydayvintage.com. A wide-ranging selection of secondhand and vintage fashion in this s.p.a.cious store. Lady Day Lady Day also has a good military section, with old sailors" wide-leg pants and military dress jackets, plus the usual 1950s-to-1980s array of men"s and women"s fashion. MonSat 11am6pm (Thurs till 9pm), Sun 16pm. also has a good military section, with old sailors" wide-leg pants and military dress jackets, plus the usual 1950s-to-1980s array of men"s and women"s fashion. MonSat 11am6pm (Thurs till 9pm), Sun 16pm.

[image]Laura Dols Wolvenstraat 6 & 7 (Grachtengordel west) 020/624 9066, Wolvenstraat 6 & 7 (Grachtengordel west) 020/624 9066, www.lauradols.nl. Top dog on the vintage fashion scene, Laura Dols Laura Dols is split into two shops opposite each other on Wolvenstraat. One has rails groaning under the weight of countless dresses, all sorted according to colour to make things easier for the seasoned buyer. There is also a mult.i.tude of vintage pieces for both women and men, including some excellent swimwear, stunningly printed fabrics from the 1950s and 1960s, piles of vintage pillowcases, tablecloths, tea towels, and even a superb selection of children"s and baby clothes. But the quality vintage pieces are across the road in the stylish sister store; prices are high, but not unaffordable, for 1920s flapper dresses, 1930s hats and 1950s skirts. MonSat 11am6pm (Thurs till 9pm), Sun 16pm. is split into two shops opposite each other on Wolvenstraat. One has rails groaning under the weight of countless dresses, all sorted according to colour to make things easier for the seasoned buyer. There is also a mult.i.tude of vintage pieces for both women and men, including some excellent swimwear, stunningly printed fabrics from the 1950s and 1960s, piles of vintage pillowcases, tablecloths, tea towels, and even a superb selection of children"s and baby clothes. But the quality vintage pieces are across the road in the stylish sister store; prices are high, but not unaffordable, for 1920s flapper dresses, 1930s hats and 1950s skirts. MonSat 11am6pm (Thurs till 9pm), Sun 16pm.

Second Best Wolvenstraat 18 (Grachtengordel west) 020/422 0274. Most things here are from the last fifteen years, so don"t expect to dig out a1950s prom dress from the racks of cla.s.sy cast-offs. There is, however, some great modern(ish) stuff to be found if you"re prepared to rummage and pay a little over the odds. Mon 16pm, TuesSat 11am6pm. Wolvenstraat 18 (Grachtengordel west) 020/422 0274. Most things here are from the last fifteen years, so don"t expect to dig out a1950s prom dress from the racks of cla.s.sy cast-offs. There is, however, some great modern(ish) stuff to be found if you"re prepared to rummage and pay a little over the odds. Mon 16pm, TuesSat 11am6pm.

Zipper Huidenstraat 7 (Grachtengordel west) 020/623 7302. Huidenstraat 7 (Grachtengordel west) 020/623 7302. Zipper Zipper has mainly cheap and cheerful stuff from the 1960s, 1970s and 1980s, and is great for jeans. Pay attention though, as they stock new clothes alongside the vintage ones and that 1960s-style shift dress may not be all that it seems. They also have a good selection of accessories, both vintage and modern. Mon noon6pm, TuesSat 11am6pm (Thurs till 9pm), Sun 15pm. Also in the Old Centre at Nieuwe Hoogstraat 8 (same hours; 020/627 0353). has mainly cheap and cheerful stuff from the 1960s, 1970s and 1980s, and is great for jeans. Pay attention though, as they stock new clothes alongside the vintage ones and that 1960s-style shift dress may not be all that it seems. They also have a good selection of accessories, both vintage and modern. Mon noon6pm, TuesSat 11am6pm (Thurs till 9pm), Sun 15pm. Also in the Old Centre at Nieuwe Hoogstraat 8 (same hours; 020/627 0353).

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Zipper ShoppingShops ShopsClothes and accessories Clothes and accessoriesShoes, bags and other accessories Body Sox Leidsestraat 35 (Grachtengordel south) 020/422 3544. Socks, tights and stockings in every conceivable colour and design. MonSat 9.30am6pm (Thurs till 9pm), Sun noon6pm. Leidsestraat 35 (Grachtengordel south) 020/422 3544. Socks, tights and stockings in every conceivable colour and design. MonSat 9.30am6pm (Thurs till 9pm), Sun noon6pm.

Dr Adam"s P.C. Hooftstraat 90 (Museum Quarter and Vondelpark) 020/662 3835. One of the city"s widest selections of fashionable shoes. Also at Leidsestraat 25 (020/626 4460; Grachtengordel south). MonFri 10am6pm (Thurs till 9pm), Sat 10am7pm, Sun noon7pm. P.C. Hooftstraat 90 (Museum Quarter and Vondelpark) 020/662 3835. One of the city"s widest selections of fashionable shoes. Also at Leidsestraat 25 (020/626 4460; Grachtengordel south). MonFri 10am6pm (Thurs till 9pm), Sat 10am7pm, Sun noon7pm.

The English Hatter Heiligeweg 40 (Old Centre) 020/623 4781, Heiligeweg 40 (Old Centre) 020/623 4781, www.english-hatter.nl. Ties, hats and various other accessories, alongside cla.s.sic menswear, from shirts to cricket sweaters. Mon noon5.30pm, TuesFri 9am5.30pm (Thurs till 9pm), Sat 9am5pm, Sun noon5pm.

Fred de la Bretoniere St Luciensteeg 20 020/623 4152; Utrechtsestraat 77 020/626 9627 (both Grachtengordel south). Designer famous for his high-quality handbags and shoes, all sold at reasonable or at least affordable prices. Both shops Mon 16pm, TuesFri 10am6pm (Thurs till 9pm), Sat 10am5pm; St Luciensteeg store also Sun noon5pm and Thurs till 7pm. St Luciensteeg 20 020/623 4152; Utrechtsestraat 77 020/626 9627 (both Grachtengordel south). Designer famous for his high-quality handbags and shoes, all sold at reasonable or at least affordable prices. Both shops Mon 16pm, TuesFri 10am6pm (Thurs till 9pm), Sat 10am5pm; St Luciensteeg store also Sun noon5pm and Thurs till 7pm.

De Grote Tas Oude Hoogstraat 6 (Old Centre) 020/623 0110. Family-run store now in the third generation, selling a wide selection of serious bags, briefcases and suitcases. Mon 11am6pm, TuesSat 10am6pm, Sun noon6pm. Oude Hoogstraat 6 (Old Centre) 020/623 0110. Family-run store now in the third generation, selling a wide selection of serious bags, briefcases and suitcases. Mon 11am6pm, TuesSat 10am6pm, Sun noon6pm.

Hoeden M/V Herengracht 422 (Grachtengordel west) 020/626 3038, Herengracht 422 (Grachtengordel west) 020/626 3038, www.hoeden-mv.com. Pricey designer hats galore, from felt Borsalinos to straw Panamas. Gloves and umbrellas too. At Leidsestraat. TuesFri 11am6pm (Thurs till 9pm), Sat 11am5pm, Sun 16pm.

Jan Jansen Rokin 42 (Old Centre) 020/625 1350, Rokin 42 (Old Centre) 020/625 1350, www.janjansenshoes.com. This famous Dutch designer sells handmade shoes with bizarre designs. TuesSat 11am6pm.

Mono Haarlemmerstraat 16 (Grachtengordel west) 020/421 5378. Everything in this tiny store is retro, from the bags to the funky T-shirts and belts. MonWed 10.30am5.30pm, ThursSat 10.30am6pm, Sun noon5pm. Haarlemmerstraat 16 (Grachtengordel west) 020/421 5378. Everything in this tiny store is retro, from the bags to the funky T-shirts and belts. MonWed 10.30am5.30pm, ThursSat 10.30am6pm, Sun noon5pm.

Patta Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 142 (Old Centre) 020/528 5994. The trendiest sneaker store in town selling Adidas, Vans and Asics among others. Also clothes by Alife, Rockwell and Reigning Champ. MonSat noon7pm (Thurs till 9pm), Sun 18pm. Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 142 (Old Centre) 020/528 5994. The trendiest sneaker store in town selling Adidas, Vans and Asics among others. Also clothes by Alife, Rockwell and Reigning Champ. MonSat noon7pm (Thurs till 9pm), Sun 18pm.

s...o...b..loo PC Hoofstraat 80 (Museum Quarter and Vondelpark) 020/671 2210. Perhaps the city"s coolest shoe shop for both men and women, with other branches at Koningsplein 7 (men"s; Grachtengordel south) and Leidsestraat 10 (women"s & children"s; Grachtengordel south). All stores Mon noon6pm, TuesSat 10am6pm (Thurs till 9pm), Sun 16pm. PC Hoofstraat 80 (Museum Quarter and Vondelpark) 020/671 2210. Perhaps the city"s coolest shoe shop for both men and women, with other branches at Koningsplein 7 (men"s; Grachtengordel south) and Leidsestraat 10 (women"s & children"s; Grachtengordel south). All stores Mon noon6pm, TuesSat 10am6pm (Thurs till 9pm), Sun 16pm.

ShoppingShops ShopsDepartment stores and shopping malls On the whole, Amsterdam"s department stores department stores are really rather insipid, and the same applies to most of the city"s are really rather insipid, and the same applies to most of the city"s shopping malls shopping malls, the bulk of which are consigned to the suburbs. An exception is Magna Plaza Magna Plaza, a shopping mall imaginatively sited in the old neo-Gothic post office building behind Dam Square at Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 182, though even here the shops themselves comprising the usual big-brand stuff don"t match the setting.

De Bijenkorf Dam 1 (Old Centre) 020/552 1700. Dominating the northern corner of Dam Square, this is the city"s top department store with an interesting history (see " Dam 1 (Old Centre) 020/552 1700. Dominating the northern corner of Dam Square, this is the city"s top department store with an interesting history (see "De Bijenkorf"), a huge bustling place whose name means "beehive". It"s good for clothes, accessories and kids" stuff. Mon 11am7pm, Tues & Wed 9.30am7pm, Thurs & Fri 9.30am9pm, Sat 9.30am6pm, Sun noon6pm.

HEMA Nieuwendijk 174 (Old Centre) 020/623 4176. A cross between Woolworths and Marks & Spencer, great for stocking up on all the important things you need underwear, toiletries and other essentials, plus occasional designer delights. Surprises include wine and salami at the back of the shop, and a good bakery and cheese counter; great sweets too. Plus, their Fotoservice is convenient and promises same-day delivery. There"s another branch at Kalverstraat 212 (Old Centre; 020/422 8988). Mon 10.30am6pm, TuesSat 9.30am6pm (Thurs till 9pm), Sun noon6pm. Nieuwendijk 174 (Old Centre) 020/623 4176. A cross between Woolworths and Marks & Spencer, great for stocking up on all the important things you need underwear, toiletries and other essentials, plus occasional designer delights. Surprises include wine and salami at the back of the shop, and a good bakery and cheese counter; great sweets too. Plus, their Fotoservice is convenient and promises same-day delivery. There"s another branch at Kalverstraat 212 (Old Centre; 020/422 8988). Mon 10.30am6pm, TuesSat 9.30am6pm (Thurs till 9pm), Sun noon6pm.

Maison de Bonneterie Rokin 140 (Old Centre) 020/626 2162. A venerable old department store that has somewhat reinvented itself as a hub of mainstream designer fashion. The building is attractive too, rising through bal.u.s.traded balconies to a high central dome. There"s also a small lunch cafe. Mon 11am6pm, Tues & Wed 10am6pm, Thurs 10am9pm, Fri & Sat 10am6.30pm, Sun noon5pm. Rokin 140 (Old Centre) 020/626 2162. A venerable old department store that has somewhat reinvented itself as a hub of mainstream designer fashion. The building is attractive too, rising through bal.u.s.traded balconies to a high central dome. There"s also a small lunch cafe. Mon 11am6pm, Tues & Wed 10am6pm, Thurs 10am9pm, Fri & Sat 10am6.30pm, Sun noon5pm.

Metz & Co Leidsestraat 34 (Grachtengordel south) 020/520 7020. Large department store with floor upon floor of clothing, furniture and household appliances. The rooftop cafe offers a particularly enjoyable view over the city centre. Mon 11am6pm, TuesSat 9.30am6pm (Thurs till 9pm), Sun noon5pm. Leidsestraat 34 (Grachtengordel south) 020/520 7020. Large department store with floor upon floor of clothing, furniture and household appliances. The rooftop cafe offers a particularly enjoyable view over the city centre. Mon 11am6pm, TuesSat 9.30am6pm (Thurs till 9pm), Sun noon5pm.

Peek & Cloppenburg Dam 20 (Old Centre) 020/623 2837. Less a department store than a multistorey clothes shop with some painfully middle-of-the-road styles. Nonetheless, this remains an Amsterdam inst.i.tution. Mon noon6pm, TuesSat 10am6pm (Thurs till 9pm), Sun noon6pm. Dam 20 (Old Centre) 020/623 2837. Less a department store than a multistorey clothes shop with some painfully middle-of-the-road styles. Nonetheless, this remains an Amsterdam inst.i.tution. Mon noon6pm, TuesSat 10am6pm (Thurs till 9pm), Sun noon6pm.

Vroom & Dreesmann Kalverstraat 203 (entrance also from Rokin; Old Centre) 020/622 0171. The main Amsterdam branch of a middle-range nationwide chain, near Muntplein. It"s pretty unadventurous, but take comfort from the fact that the restaurant is quite outstanding for a department store, and they bake fresh bread on the premises as well. Check out also the listening stands in the CD section on the top floor the best place for a free Mozart recital with a ca.n.a.l view. Mon 11am8pm, TuesSat 10am8pm (Thurs till 9pm), Sun noon8pm. Kalverstraat 203 (entrance also from Rokin; Old Centre) 020/622 0171. The main Amsterdam branch of a middle-range nationwide chain, near Muntplein. It"s pretty unadventurous, but take comfort from the fact that the restaurant is quite outstanding for a department store, and they bake fresh bread on the premises as well. Check out also the listening stands in the CD section on the top floor the best place for a free Mozart recital with a ca.n.a.l view. Mon 11am8pm, TuesSat 10am8pm (Thurs till 9pm), Sun noon8pm.

ShoppingShops ShopsFood and drink While the city centre"s supermarkets may not impress, there"s also a whole host of speciality food stores speciality food stores where you can buy anything from local fish to imported Heinz baked beans. The where you can buy anything from local fish to imported Heinz baked beans. The wine and spirits shops wine and spirits shops listed here have been chosen for their location, their specialities or simply because they"re good value. listed here have been chosen for their location, their specialities or simply because they"re good value.

ShoppingShops ShopsFood and drink Food and drinkSupermarkets Supermarkets are thin on the ground in central Amsterdam and most apart from Albert Heijn"s flagship store (see below) are crowded and cramped. If you"re buying are thin on the ground in central Amsterdam and most apart from Albert Heijn"s flagship store (see below) are crowded and cramped. If you"re buying fruit and vegetables fruit and vegetables, note you"ll usually need to weigh and price them yourself (unless a price is given per item, per stuk per stuk); put them on the scale, press the little picture, then press BON to get a sticky barcode. If you"re buying beer, juice or water in bottles bottles (gla.s.s or plastic), a deposit of 0.100.50 will be added on at the checkout; you get it back when you return the empties to a different store if you like. (gla.s.s or plastic), a deposit of 0.100.50 will be added on at the checkout; you get it back when you return the empties to a different store if you like.

Albert Heijn NZ Voorburgwal 226 (Old Centre) 020/421 8344. Located just behind Dam Square, this is the biggest of the city"s forty-odd Albert Heijn supermarkets. None of them take credit cards. There are other central branches at Koningsplein 4 (Grachtengordel south); Vijzelstraat 113 (Grachtengordel south); Westerstraat 79 (Jordaan and Western docklands); Haarlemmerdijk 1 (Jordaan and Western docklands); and Overtoom 454 (Museum Quarter and Vondelpark). Daily 8am10pm. NZ Voorburgwal 226 (Old Centre) 020/421 8344. Located just behind Dam Square, this is the biggest of the city"s forty-odd Albert Heijn supermarkets. None of them take credit cards. There are other central branches at Koningsplein 4 (Grachtengordel south); Vijzelstraat 113 (Grachtengordel south); Westerstraat 79 (Jordaan and Western docklands); Haarlemmerdijk 1 (Jordaan and Western docklands); and Overtoom 454 (Museum Quarter and Vondelpark). Daily 8am10pm.

Dirk van den Broek Marie Heinekenplein 25 (De Pijp, Outer districts) 020/611 0812. Tram #16, #24 or #25. Beats Albert Heijn hands down in everything except image. Cheaper across the board and bigger too. More branches dotted around the suburbs. Daily 8am9pm. Marie Heinekenplein 25 (De Pijp, Outer districts) 020/611 0812. Tram #16, #24 or #25. Beats Albert Heijn hands down in everything except image. Cheaper across the board and bigger too. More branches dotted around the suburbs. Daily 8am9pm.

De Natuurwinkel 1e Van Swindenstraat 30 (Jewish Quarter and Eastern docklands) 020/693 5909, 1e Van Swindenstraat 30 (Jewish Quarter and Eastern docklands) 020/693 5909, www.denatuurwinkel.com. Main branch of a chain selling only organic food. Much better-tasting fruit and vegetables than anywhere else; also grains, pulses, Bonbon Jeanette chocolates and superb bread. Also at Haarlemmerdijk 174 (Jordaan and Western docklands) and smaller branches around town. Daily 8am7pm.

ShoppingShops ShopsFood and drink Food and drinkBeer, wine, spirits and water The legal age legal age at which you can be sold beer is 16; for wines and spirits you need to be 18. The Dutch word for an off-licence (liquor store) is at which you can be sold beer is 16; for wines and spirits you need to be 18. The Dutch word for an off-licence (liquor store) is slijterij slijterij.

De Bierkoning Paleisstraat 125 (Old Centre) 020/625 2336. The "Beer King" is aptly named: 950 different beers, with the appropriate gla.s.ses to drink them from. Mon 17pm, TuesFri 11am7pm, Sat 11am6pm, Sun 16pm. Paleisstraat 125 (Old Centre) 020/625 2336. The "Beer King" is aptly named: 950 different beers, with the appropriate gla.s.ses to drink them from. Mon 17pm, TuesFri 11am7pm, Sat 11am6pm, Sun 16pm.

Chabrol Haarlemmerstraat 7 (Jordaan and Western docklands) 020/622 2781, Haarlemmerstraat 7 (Jordaan and Western docklands) 020/622 2781, www.chabrolwines.com. Excellent selection of wines (over 1500) and champagne, plus extremely knowledgeable staff. MonWed & Sat 9.30am7.30pm, Thurs & Fri 9.30am8pm, Sun noon6pm.

Gall & Gall Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 226 (Old Centre) 020/421 8370. The most central branch of the largest chain of wine merchants in Amsterdam, with a good choice of wines and regular tastings. Good range of Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 226 (Old Centre) 020/421 8370. The most central branch of the largest chain of wine merchants in Amsterdam, with a good choice of wines and regular tastings. Good range of jenevers jenevers (Dutch gins) too. Among others, there are also outlets at Jodenbreestraat 23 (020/428 7060; Jewish Quarter and Eastern docklands) and Rozengracht 72 (020/624 4666; Jordaan & Western docklands). MonSat 10am10pm, Sun 11am8pm. (Dutch gins) too. Among others, there are also outlets at Jodenbreestraat 23 (020/428 7060; Jewish Quarter and Eastern docklands) and Rozengracht 72 (020/624 4666; Jordaan & Western docklands). MonSat 10am10pm, Sun 11am8pm.

Le Cellier Spuistraat 116 (Old Centre) 020/638 6573. The largest wine, beer and spirits shop in the city centre, with a huge selection. Mon 11am6pm, TuesFri 9.30am6pm, Sat 9.30am5.30pm. Spuistraat 116 (Old Centre) 020/638 6573. The largest wine, beer and spirits shop in the city centre, with a huge selection. Mon 11am6pm, TuesFri 9.30am6pm, Sat 9.30am5.30pm.

Vintner Otterman Keizersgracht 300 (Grachtengordel west) 020/625 5088. Medium-sized, notably unpretentious store selling a first-rate selection of French wines. At Berenstraat. Mon 16pm, TuesFri 10.30am6pm, Sat 10.30am5pm. Keizersgracht 300 (Grachtengordel west) 020/625 5088. Medium-sized, notably unpretentious store selling a first-rate selection of French wines. At Berenstraat. Mon 16pm, TuesFri 10.30am6pm, Sat 10.30am5pm.

Waterwinkel Roelof Hartstraat 10 (Oud Zuid, Outer districts) 020/675 5923, Hartstraat 10 (Oud Zuid, Outer districts) 020/675 5923, www.springwater.nl. Every type of mineral water imaginable. MonFri 10am6pm, Sat 10am5pm.

ShoppingShops ShopsFood and drink Food and drinkBread, pastries, chocolates, sweets and ice cream Amsterdam has a bevy of bread and pastry shops bread and pastry shops: a warme bakkerij warme bakkerij sells bread and rolls baked on the premises, a sells bread and rolls baked on the premises, a banketbakkerij banketbakkerij pastries and cream cakes. Specialist pastries and cream cakes. Specialist chocolatiers chocolatiers are much less common, but several of them are quite simply outstanding. are much less common, but several of them are quite simply outstanding.

Bakkerij Paul Annee Runstraat 25 (Grachtengordel west) 020/623 5322. The best wholegrain and sourdough breads in town, bar none all made from organic grains. MonFri 8am6pm, Sat 8.30am5pm. Runstraat 25 (Grachtengordel west) 020/623 5322. The best wholegrain and sourdough breads in town, bar none all made from organic grains. MonFri 8am6pm, Sat 8.30am5pm.

J.G. Beune Haarlemmerdijk 156 (Jordaan and Western docklands) 020/624 8356. Long-established chocolatier with enticing window displays. MonFri 8.30am6pm, Sat 8am5pm. Haarlemmerdijk 156 (Jordaan and Western docklands) 020/624 8356. Long-established chocolatier with enticing window displays. MonFri 8.30am6pm, Sat 8am5pm.

Jordino Haarlemmerdijk 25a 020/420 3225. You can sample some of Amsterdam"s best ice cream and chocolates at this Haarlemmerdijk inst.i.tution. Mon 17pm, TuesSat 107pm, Sun 17pm. Haarlemmerdijk 25a 020/420 3225. You can sample some of Amsterdam"s best ice cream and chocolates at this Haarlemmerdijk inst.i.tution. Mon 17pm, TuesSat 107pm, Sun 17pm.

Lanskroon Singel 385 (Grachtengordel west) 020/623 7743. Famously good pastry shop, with a small area for on-the-spot consumption. Near the south end of Spuistraat. MonFri 8am5.30pm, Sat 9am5.30pm, Sun 10am5.30pm. Singel 385 (Grachtengordel west) 020/623 7743. Famously good pastry shop, with a small area for on-the-spot consumption. Near the south end of Spuistraat. MonFri 8am5.30pm, Sat 9am5.30pm, Sun 10am5.30pm.

Oud-Hollandsch Snoepwinkeltje Tweede Egelantierdwarsstraat 2 (Jordaan and Western docklands) 020/420 7390. All kinds of mouth-watering Dutch sweets, piled up in gla.s.s jars and attracting hordes of neighbourhood kids. The ideal place to try the typical Dutch salted liquorice. TuesSat 11am6.30pm, Sun noon5pm. Tweede Egelantierdwarsstraat 2 (Jordaan and Western docklands) 020/420 7390. All kinds of mouth-watering Dutch sweets, piled up in gla.s.s jars and attracting hordes of neighbourhood kids. The ideal place to try the typical Dutch salted liquorice. TuesSat 11am6.30pm, Sun noon5pm.

Pompadour Chocolaterie Huidenstraat 12 (Grachtengordel west) 020/623 9554. Delicious chocolates and lots of home-made pastries (usually smothered in or filled with chocolate). MonSat 9am6pm, Sun noon6pm. Huidenstraat 12 (Grachtengordel west) 020/623 9554. Delicious chocolates and lots of home-made pastries (usually smothered in or filled with chocolate). MonSat 9am6pm, Sun noon6pm.

[image]Puccini Singel 184 (Grachtengordel west) 020/427 8341, Singel 184 (Grachtengordel west) 020/427 8341, www.puccinibomboni.com. Arguably the best chocolatier in town, selling a wonderfully creative range of chocolates in all shapes and sizes. This mini-chain has also abandoned the tweeness of the traditional chocolatier for brisk, modern decor. At the junction of Oude Leliestraat. Mon noon6pm, TuesSat 11am6pm. Also at Staalstraat 17 (Old Centre), 020/626 5474; Mon & Sun noon6pm, TuesSat 9am6pm.

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Puccini ShoppingShops ShopsFood and drink Food and drinkCheese Arxhoek Damstraat 19 (Old Centre) 020/622 9118. Centrally situated general cheese shop. MonFri 9am6pm, Sat 9am5pm, Sun noon4pm. Damstraat 19 (Old Centre) 020/622 9118. Centrally situated general cheese shop. MonFri 9am6pm, Sat 9am5pm, Sun noon4pm.

De Kaaskamer Runstraat 7 (Grachtengordel west) 020/623 3483. Friendly shop with a comprehensive selection of Dutch cheeses, plus international wines, cheeses and olives. Mon noon6pm, TuesFri 9am6pm, Sat 9am5pm, Sun noon5pm. Runstraat 7 (Grachtengordel west) 020/623 3483. Friendly shop with a comprehensive selection of Dutch cheeses, plus international wines, cheeses and olives. Mon noon6pm, TuesFri 9am6pm, Sat 9am5pm, Sun noon5pm.

Kaasland Haarlemmerdijk 1 (Jordaan and Western docklands) 020/625 7945. As the name suggests, this shop offers a huge selection of cheeses, plus breads and sandwiches. MonFri 8am8pm, Sat 8am7pm, Sun 10am7pm. Haarlemmerdijk 1 (Jordaan and Western docklands) 020/625 7945. As the name suggests, this shop offers a huge selection of cheeses, plus breads and sandwiches. MonFri 8am8pm, Sat 8am7pm, Sun 10am7pm.

ShoppingShops ShopsFood and drink Food and drinkCoffee and tea [image]Geels & Co Warmoesstraat 67 (Old Centre) 020/624 0683. Oddly situated among Warmoesstraat"s loud bars and p.o.r.n shops, this is one of the city"s oldest and best-equipped coffee and tea specialists, with low prices on beans and utensils, and a fantastic stock of coffees and teas. It also has a small museum of coffee upstairs. MonSat 9.30am6pm. Warmoesstraat 67 (Old Centre) 020/624 0683. Oddly situated among Warmoesstraat"s loud bars and p.o.r.n shops, this is one of the city"s oldest and best-equipped coffee and tea specialists, with low prices on beans and utensils, and a fantastic stock of coffees and teas. It also has a small museum of coffee upstairs. MonSat 9.30am6pm.

Levelt Prinsengracht 180 (Grachtengordel west) 020/624 0823. This specialist tea and coffee company has occupied the same premises for over 150 years and, although there are now Levelts dotted across the city, this is the best. Friendly service too. At Westermarkt. MonFri 10am6pm, Sat 10am5pm, Sun 15pm. Prinsengracht 180 (Grachtengordel west) 020/624 0823. This specialist tea and coffee company has occupied the same premises for over 150 years and, although there are now Levelts dotted across the city, this is the best. Friendly service too. At Westermarkt. MonFri 10am6pm, Sat 10am5pm, Sun 15pm.

ShoppingShops ShopsFood and drink Food and drinkDelis and imported foods Eichholtz Leidsestraat 48 (Grachtengordel south) 020/622 0305. Old-fashioned store specializing in imported foods from Britain and the US the place to find Oreo cookies, Pop Tarts and Heinz beans. Mon 10am6pm, TuesSat 9am6.30pm (Thurs till 9pm), Sun noon6pm. Leidsestraat 48 (Grachtengordel south) 020/622 0305. Old-fashioned store specializing in imported foods from Britain and the US the place to find Oreo cookies, Pop Tarts and Heinz beans. Mon 10am6pm, TuesSat 9am6.30pm (Thurs till 9pm), Sun noon6pm.

Meeuwig & Zn. Haarlemmerstraat 70 (Grachtengordel west) 020/626 5286. Oil from every thinkable country sold from large silver barrels. Also a wide selection of vinegar, over thirty kinds of mustard and tasty fresh olives. MonFri 10.30am6pm, Sat 10am5.30pm. Haarlemmerstraat 70 (Grachtengordel west) 020/626 5286. Oil from every thinkable country sold from large silver barrels. Also a wide selection of vinegar, over thirty kinds of mustard and tasty fresh olives. MonFri 10.30am6pm, Sat 10am5.30pm.

Olivaria Hazenstraat 2a (Jordaan and Western docklands) 020/638 3552. Olive oil and nothing but. Incredible range of oils, all self-imported from small- and medium-sized concerns around the world. Expert advice and a well-stocked tasting table. Mon 26pm, TuesSat 11am6pm. Hazenstraat 2a (Jordaan and Western docklands) 020/638 3552. Olive oil and nothing but. Incredible range of oils, all self-imported from small- and medium-sized concerns around the world. Expert advice and a well-stocked tasting table. Mon 26pm, TuesSat 11am6pm.

Oriental Commodities Nieuwmarkt 27 (Old Centre) 020/626 2797. Large and warren-like Chinese supermarket. All sorts of stuff is squirrelled away in corners seaweed, water chestnuts, spicy prawn crackers. Get there early for the handmade tofu. MonSat 9am6pm. Nieuwmarkt 27 (Old Centre) 020/626 2797. Large and warren-like Chinese supermarket. All sorts of stuff is squirrelled away in corners seaweed, water chestnuts, spicy prawn crackers. Get there early for the handmade tofu. MonSat 9am6pm.

ShoppingShops ShopsFood and drink Food and drinkFish and seafood Although there are lots of fresh herring and seafood stalls seafood stalls dotted around the city at strategic locations, including one or two excellent ones in the dotted around the city at strategic locations, including one or two excellent ones in the Albert Cuypmarkt Albert Cuypmarkt, perhaps the best is the award-winning Bloemberg Bloemberg on Van Baerlestraat, just along from the Van Gogh Museum. Others worth trying are on the corner of Singel and Haarlemmerstraat, Singel and Raadhuisstraat, and Utrechtsestraat and Keizersgracht. on Van Baerlestraat, just along from the Van Gogh Museum. Others worth trying are on the corner of Singel and Haarlemmerstraat, Singel and Raadhuisstraat, and Utrechtsestraat and Keizersgracht.

ShoppingShops ShopsFood and drink Food and drinkOrganic and natural food De Aanzet Frans Halsstraat 27 (De Pijp, Outer districts) 020/673 3415. Small, organic co-operative supermarket in De Pijp. MonFri 9am6pm, Sat 9am5pm. Frans Halsstraat 27 (De Pijp, Outer districts) 020/673 3415. Small, organic co-operative supermarket in De Pijp. MonFri 9am6pm, Sat 9am5pm.

Boerenmarkt See " See "Boerenmarkt". Weekly organic farmers" market.

De Natuurwinkel See " See "De Natuurwinkel". The city"s widest selection of organic and natural food.

Natuurwinkel Waterlooplein Waterlooplein 131 (Old Jewish Quarter and Eastern docklands) 020/624 1765. Friendly natural food shop right on the Waterlooplein flea market. MonFri 8am7pm, Sat 9am6pm, Sun 11am6pm. Waterlooplein 131 (Old Jewish Quarter and Eastern docklands) 020/624 1765. Friendly natural food shop right on the Waterlooplein flea market. MonFri 8am7pm, Sat 9am6pm, Sun 11am6pm.

ShoppingShops ShopsMusic The price of CDs CDs in Amsterdam is higher than in Britain and outrageous compared to the US. Where the city scores points, however, is in its variety: there are lots of small, low-key independent shops specializing in one type of music or another and it"s here you can uncover vintage items unavailable elsewhere. If it"s in Amsterdam is higher than in Britain and outrageous compared to the US. Where the city scores points, however, is in its variety: there are lots of small, low-key independent shops specializing in one type of music or another and it"s here you can uncover vintage items unavailable elsewhere. If it"s vinyl vinyl you"re after, on the other hand, you"ve come to the wrong city. Some places still sell records, but it"s very much taken for granted that music comes on CD. The main exception is the you"re after, on the other hand, you"ve come to the wrong city. Some places still sell records, but it"s very much taken for granted that music comes on CD. The main exception is the Waterlooplein flea market Waterlooplein flea market, which has stacks of old records and CDs on offer.

Back Beat Records Egelantiersstraat 19 (Jordaan and Western docklands) 020/627 1657, Egelantiersstraat 19 (Jordaan and Western docklands) 020/627 1657, www.backbeat.nl. Small specialist in soul, blues, jazz, funk, etc, with a helpful and enthusiastic owner. MonSat 11am6pm.

Blue Note Gravenstraat 12 (Old Centre) 020/428 1029. A great selection of jazz records and CDs. TuesSat 11am7pm, Sun noon5pm. Gravenstraat 12 (Old Centre) 020/428 1029. A great selection of jazz records and CDs. TuesSat 11am7pm, Sun noon5pm.

Broekmans & Van Poppel Van Baerlestraat 9294 (Museum Quarter and Vondelpark) 020/675 6979, Van Baerlestraat 9294 (Museum Quarter and Vondelpark) 020/675 6979, www.broekmans.com. Specialists in cla.s.sical and opera CDs and sheet music, of which they have perhaps the best selection in the city. Mon 10am6pm, TuesFri 9am6pm, Sat 9am5pm.

Concerto Utrechtsestraat 54 (Grachtengordel south) 020/623 5228, Utrechtsestraat 54 (Grachtengordel south) 020/623 5228, www.concertomania.nl. New and used records and CDs in all categories; equally good on baroque as on grunge. One of the best all-round selections in the city, with the option to listen before you buy. MonSat 10am6pm (Thurs till 9pm), Sun noon6pm.

Discostars Haarlemmerdijk 86 020/626 1777. Brilliantly chaotic CD and vinyl store, with a vast collection of stuff you won"t find anywhere else. Mon 16pm, TuesSat 106pm, Sun 16pm. Haarlemmerdijk 86 020/626 1777. Brilliantly chaotic CD and vinyl store, with a vast collection of stuff you won"t find anywhere else. Mon 16pm, TuesSat 106pm, Sun 16pm.

Distortion Records Westerstraat 244 (Jordaan and Western docklands) 020/627 0004, Westerstraat 244 (Jordaan and Western docklands) 020/627 0004, www.distortion.nl. Secondhand independent shop with vinyl everywhere. TuesFri 11am6pm (Thurs till 9pm), Sat 10am6pm.

Fame Kalverstraat 2 (Old Centre) 020/638 2525. The only large music warehouse in town; predictable selection of CDs and tapes. Books and computer games too. Mon & Sun noon7pm, TuesSat 10am7pm (Thurs till 9pm). Kalverstraat 2 (Old Centre) 020/638 2525. The only large music warehouse in town; predictable selection of CDs and tapes. Books and computer games too. Mon & Sun noon7pm, TuesSat 10am7pm (Thurs till 9pm).

Free Record Shop Kalverstraat 32 & 230 (Old Centre) 020/626 5808. One of the better pop/rock chains. No vinyl. Also at Leidsestraat 24 (Grachtengordel south), Centraal Station and Nieuwendijk 229 (both Old Centre). Kalverstraat 32 & 230 (Old Centre) 020/626 5808. One of the better pop/rock chains. No vinyl. Also at Leidsestraat 24 (Grachtengordel south), Centraal Station and Nieuwendijk 229 (both Old Centre).

Killa Cutz Nieuwe Nieuwstraat 19 (Old Centre) 020/428 4040. Specializes in all the latest techno and electronic music. Daily 10am6pm, closed on Wed in winter. Nieuwe Nieuwstraat 19 (Old Centre) 020/428 4040. Specializes in all the latest techno and electronic music. Daily 10am6pm, closed on Wed in winter.

Phantasio 2e Tuindwarssatraat 53 (Jordaan and Western docklands) 020/421 7110. Large shop with a good collection of mainstream alternative music CDs only and a "listening table" equipped with headphones. Good for flyers. Mon & Sun noon6pm, TuesFri 11am7pm (Fri till 8pm), Sat 10am7pm. 2e Tuindwarssatraat 53 (Jordaan and Western docklands) 020/421 7110. Large shop with a good collection of mainstream alternative music CDs only and a "listening table" equipped with headphones. Good for flyers. Mon & Sun noon6pm, TuesFri 11am7pm (Fri till 8pm), Sat 10am7pm.

South Miami Plaza Albert Cuypstraat 116 (De Pijp, Outer districts) 020/662 2817. Large store specializing in Portuguese and Surinamese music, but plenty of other styles too, along with posters and DVDs. MonSat 9am6pm. Albert Cuypstraat 116 (De Pijp, Outer districts) 020/662 2817. Large store specializing in Portuguese and Surinamese music, but plenty of other styles too, along with posters and DVDs. MonSat 9am6pm.

ShoppingShops ShopsSpeciality shops Perhaps more than any other city in Europe, Amsterdam is a great source of idiosyncratic little shops devoted to one particular product or special interest. What follows is a selection of the city"s more distinctive offerings.

3-D Holograms Grimburgwal 2 (Old Centre) 020/624 7225. All kinds of holographic art, big and small and erotic too. Mon & Sun 15.30pm, TuesFri noon6pm, Sat noon6pm. Grimburgwal 2 (Old Centre) 020/624 7225. All kinds of holographic art, big and small and erotic too. Mon & Sun 15.30pm, TuesFri noon6pm, Sat noon6pm.

Absolute Danny OZ Achterburgwal 78 (Old Centre) 020/421 0915. A so-called "erotic lifestyle store", specializing in rubberwear, bondage gear, basques, etc. MonSat 11am9pm, Sun noon9pm. OZ Achterburgwal 78 (Old Centre) 020/421 0915. A so-called "erotic lifestyle store", specializing in rubberwear, bondage gear, basques, etc. MonSat 11am9pm, Sun noon9pm.

Ajax Fan Shop Arena Boulevard 13 (Outer districts) 020/311 1688. Official club shop selling the current strips and sportsgear, as well as the usual hats and duvet covers. There"s also an unofficial outlet at Kalverstraat 86 (Grachtengordel west) if you can"t be bothered to schlep all the way out to the stadium. MonSat 9.30am5pm, last Sun of the month 10am5pm, match days 10am until 5min before kick-off. Arena Boulevard 13 (Outer districts) 020/311 1688. Official club shop selling the current strips and sportsgear, as well as the usual hats and duvet covers. There"s also an unofficial outlet at Kalverstraat 86 (Grachtengordel west) if you can"t be bothered to schlep all the way out to the stadium. MonSat 9.30am5pm, last Sun of the month 10am5pm, match days 10am until 5min before kick-off.

Akkerman Kalverstraat 149 (Old Centre) 020/623 1649. The city"s poshest pen shop, with an excellent selection of writing accessories. MonFri 10am5.45pm (Thurs till 8.45pm), Sat 10am5pm, Sun 15pm. Kalverstraat 149 (Old Centre) 020/623 1649. The city"s poshest pen shop, with an excellent selection of writing accessories. MonFri 10am5.45pm (Thurs till 8.45pm), Sat 10am5pm, Sun 15pm.

Appenzeller Grimburgwal 1 (Old Centre) 020/616 6865. State-of-the-art designer jewellery, watches and spectacles. TuesSat 11am5.30pm. Grimburgwal 1 (Old Centre) 020/616 6865. State-of-the-art designer jewellery, watches and spectacles. TuesSat 11am5.30pm.

Baobab Elandsgracht 105 (Jordaan and Western docklands) 020/626 8398, Elandsgracht 105 (Jordaan and Western docklands) 020/626 8398, www.baobab-aziatica.nl. Textiles and ceramics from Indonesia and the Far East, plus a huge selection of well-priced silver jewellery. Mon & Sun 16pm, TuesSat 11am6pm.

Beadazzled Sarphatipark 6 (De Pijp, Outer districts) 020/673 4587. Beads in all shapes and colours as well as bags, cheerfully decorated lamps and other accessories. Mon 16pm, TuesFri 10.30am6pm, Sat 10am5pm. Sarphatipark 6 (De Pijp, Outer districts) 020/673 4587. Beads in all shapes and colours as well as bags, cheerfully decorated lamps and other accessories. Mon 16pm, TuesFri 10.30am6pm, Sat 10am5pm.

Bloembollenwinkel Prinsengracht 112 (Grachtengordel west) 020/421 0095, Prinsengracht 112 (Grachtengordel west) 020/421 0095, www.amsterdamtulipmuseum.com. Charming little shop selling packets of tulip bulbs in season, as well as cards and gifts such as tulip-patterned pillows and pottery. Downstairs is a small museum that charts the tulip"s history from the gardens of the Ottoman Empire to its role as Amsterdam"s most iconic flower. Daily 10am6pm.

Blond Gerard Doustraat 69 (De Pijp, Outer districts) 020/428 4929. Popular gift shop with hand-painted and personalized pottery, bed linen, towels and note blocs, mainly in the colour pink. TuesFri 10am6pm, Sat 10am5pm. Gerard Doustraat 69 (De Pijp, Outer districts) 020/428 4929. Popular gift shop with hand-painted and personalized pottery, bed linen, towels and note blocs, mainly in the colour pink. TuesFri 10am6pm, Sat 10am5pm.

[image]Condomerie Het Gulden Vlies Warmoesstraat 141 (Old Centre) 020/627 4174. This shop sells condoms of every shape, size and flavour imaginable (and unimaginable) all in the best possible taste. MonSat 11am6pm. Warmoesstraat 141 (Old Centre) 020/627 4174. This shop sells condoms of every shape, size and flavour imaginable (and unimaginable) all in the best possible taste. MonSat 11am6pm.

Coppenhagen Rozengracht 54 (Jordaan and Western docklands) 020/624 3681. The only thing you"ll find here is beads and beady accessories including everything you need to make your own jewellery. TuesFri 10am6pm, Sat 10am5pm. Rozengracht 54 (Jordaan and Western docklands) 020/624 3681. The only thing you"ll find here is beads and beady accessories including everything you need to make your own jewellery. TuesFri 10am6pm, Sat 10am5pm.

Delftshop Muntplein 12 (Old Centre) 020/623 2271, Muntplein 12 (Old Centre) 020/623 2271, www.delftshop.com. If you"re after that elusive present and don"t want to settle for tourist tat, this is the place a great selection of delftware, from small ashtrays and trinkets for 2 to more elaborate designs such as the 7500 replica of a tulip vase held in the Rijksmuseum. Other branches at Spiegelgracht 13 (Grachtengordel south) and Prinsengracht 440 (Grachtengordel west). MonSat 9.306pm, Sun 11am6pm.

Demmenie Sports Marnixstraat 2 (Jordaan and Western docklands) 020/624 3652, Marnixstraat 2 (Jordaan and Western docklands) 020/624 3652, www.demmeniesport.nl. Large sports shop spread over two floors, selling everything you could need for hiking, camping and wilderness survival. Mon 16pm, TuesFri 10am6pm (Thurs till 7pm), Sat 10am5pm.

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