Eating and drinkingRestaurants RestaurantsGrachtengordel west Grachtengordel westIndonesian Cilubang Runstraat 10 020/626 9755. Tiny but much-liked Indonesian restaurant, with a friendly atmosphere, serving well-presented, spicy dishes with mains hovering at around 20 and the traditional Runstraat 10 020/626 9755. Tiny but much-liked Indonesian restaurant, with a friendly atmosphere, serving well-presented, spicy dishes with mains hovering at around 20 and the traditional rijsttafel rijsttafel from 23 and up. TuesSun 611pm. from 23 and up. TuesSun 611pm.

Eating and drinkingRestaurants RestaurantsGrachtengordel west Grachtengordel westItalian Bussia Reestraat 28 020/627 8794. Recently opened top-notch Italian restaurant with fresh ingredients. Everything is home-made, from the original Italian Reestraat 28 020/627 8794. Recently opened top-notch Italian restaurant with fresh ingredients. Everything is home-made, from the original Italian gelato gelato to the pasta. Many wines sold by the gla.s.s. Mains around 25, a bit less for pasta. Daily noon3pm & 610.30pm. to the pasta. Many wines sold by the gla.s.s. Mains around 25, a bit less for pasta. Daily noon3pm & 610.30pm.

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Bussia Eating and drinkingRestaurants RestaurantsGrachtengordel west Grachtengordel westPancakes Pancake Bakery Prinsengracht 191 020/625 1333. Located in the bas.e.m.e.nt of an old ca.n.a.l house, this long-established restaurant offers a mind-boggling range of fillings for its pancakes. Very popular with tourists; pancakes for around 9. Daily noon9.30pm. Prinsengracht 191 020/625 1333. Located in the bas.e.m.e.nt of an old ca.n.a.l house, this long-established restaurant offers a mind-boggling range of fillings for its pancakes. Very popular with tourists; pancakes for around 9. Daily noon9.30pm.

Eating and drinkingRestaurants RestaurantsGrachtengordel west Grachtengordel westThai Top Thai Herenstraat 28 020/623 4633. Popular restaurant serving some of the best, spiciest and most authentic Thai food in the city no mean feat given the quality of the opposition. Main courses average around 12. Daily 4.3010.30pm. Herenstraat 28 020/623 4633. Popular restaurant serving some of the best, spiciest and most authentic Thai food in the city no mean feat given the quality of the opposition. Main courses average around 12. Daily 4.3010.30pm.



Eating and drinkingRestaurants RestaurantsGrachtengordel west Grachtengordel westVegetarian Bolhoed Prinsengracht 60 020/626 1803. Something of an Amsterdam inst.i.tution, this popular vegan and vegetarian restaurant features New Age decor and a daily changing menu, plus organic beer to wash it all down with. Main courses around 15. Daily noon10pm. Prinsengracht 60 020/626 1803. Something of an Amsterdam inst.i.tution, this popular vegan and vegetarian restaurant features New Age decor and a daily changing menu, plus organic beer to wash it all down with. Main courses around 15. Daily noon10pm.

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Bolhoed Eating and drinkingRestaurants RestaurantsGrachtengordel south Eating and drinkingRestaurants RestaurantsGrachtengordel south Grachtengordel southAfrican Axum Utrechtsedwarsstraat 85 020/622 8389. Small and inexpensive Ethiopian cafe-restaurant offering a wide choice of authentic dishes. Daily except Mon from 511pm. Utrechtsedwarsstraat 85 020/622 8389. Small and inexpensive Ethiopian cafe-restaurant offering a wide choice of authentic dishes. Daily except Mon from 511pm.

Eating and drinkingRestaurants RestaurantsGrachtengordel south Grachtengordel southDutch and Modern European Kitsch Utrechtsestraat 42 020/625 9251. Flower power goes over the top in this retro restaurant, with old movies projected on the wall and cushions in every thinkable design. The menu is less adventurous, ranging from a simple hamburger to lobster at reasonable prices. TuesSat 611pm. Utrechtsestraat 42 020/625 9251. Flower power goes over the top in this retro restaurant, with old movies projected on the wall and cushions in every thinkable design. The menu is less adventurous, ranging from a simple hamburger to lobster at reasonable prices. TuesSat 611pm.

Piet de Leeuw Noorderstraat 11 020/623 7181. Arguably Amsterdam"s best steakhouse, an old-fashioned, darkly lit, wood-panelled affair dating back to the 1940s. Doubles as a local bar, but the steaks, served in several different ways and costing around 16, are excellent. MonFri noon11pm, Sat & Sun 511pm. Noorderstraat 11 020/623 7181. Arguably Amsterdam"s best steakhouse, an old-fashioned, darkly lit, wood-panelled affair dating back to the 1940s. Doubles as a local bar, but the steaks, served in several different ways and costing around 16, are excellent. MonFri noon11pm, Sat & Sun 511pm.

Eating and drinkingRestaurants RestaurantsGrachtengordel south Grachtengordel southFish [image]Le Pecheur Reguliersdwarsstraat 32 020/624 3121. Smart, pastel-painted seafood restaurant with a lovely garden terrace in the summer. The fish arrives daily from the port of IJmuiden and defines both the menu and the daily specials. Prompt and efficient service. Main courses average around 25. MonFri noon3pm & MonSat 5.3011pm. Reguliersdwarsstraat 32 020/624 3121. Smart, pastel-painted seafood restaurant with a lovely garden terrace in the summer. The fish arrives daily from the port of IJmuiden and defines both the menu and the daily specials. Prompt and efficient service. Main courses average around 25. MonFri noon3pm & MonSat 5.3011pm.

Eating and drinkingRestaurants RestaurantsGrachtengordel south Grachtengordel southFrench and Belgian Bonjour Keizersgracht 770 020/626 6040. Bistro-style French restaurant in a cosy bas.e.m.e.nt setting; particularly good charcoal-grilled dishes. Mains around 18. WedSun 511pm. Keizersgracht 770 020/626 6040. Bistro-style French restaurant in a cosy bas.e.m.e.nt setting; particularly good charcoal-grilled dishes. Mains around 18. WedSun 511pm.

Le Zinc... et les autres Prinsengracht 999 020/622 9044. Wonderfully atmospheric little place decorated in rustic style and featuring imaginatively prepared French "peasant" food. Main courses in the region of 26, plus a particularly good wine list. Closed for renovation at the time of writing. Prinsengracht 999 020/622 9044. Wonderfully atmospheric little place decorated in rustic style and featuring imaginatively prepared French "peasant" food. Main courses in the region of 26, plus a particularly good wine list. Closed for renovation at the time of writing.

Quartier Latin Utrechtsestraat 49 020/622 7419. Split-level, intimate, bistro-style restaurant serving up a (broadly) French menu for example, Utrechtsestraat 49 020/622 7419. Split-level, intimate, bistro-style restaurant serving up a (broadly) French menu for example, tournedos tournedos with Roquefort sauce. Main courses 1820. TuesSun 5.3011pm. with Roquefort sauce. Main courses 1820. TuesSun 5.3011pm.

Van de Kaart Prinsengracht 512 020/625 9232. Excellent French/Mediterranean bas.e.m.e.nt restaurant decorated in minimalist style and featuring an inventive menu, with stand-out dishes including poached lobster, home-cured bacon and mushroom risotto. Main courses for 28.50. There"s a good cellar too. MonSat 6.3010.30pm. Prinsengracht 512 020/625 9232. Excellent French/Mediterranean bas.e.m.e.nt restaurant decorated in minimalist style and featuring an inventive menu, with stand-out dishes including poached lobster, home-cured bacon and mushroom risotto. Main courses for 28.50. There"s a good cellar too. MonSat 6.3010.30pm.

Eating and drinkingRestaurants RestaurantsGrachtengordel south Grachtengordel southIndian Shiva Reguliersdwarsstraat 72 020/624 8713. One of the city"s best Indian restaurants in terms of quality and price, with a good selection of dishes, all expertly prepared. Vegetarians are well catered for too. Main courses from as little as 12.50. Daily 511pm. Reguliersdwarsstraat 72 020/624 8713. One of the city"s best Indian restaurants in terms of quality and price, with a good selection of dishes, all expertly prepared. Vegetarians are well catered for too. Main courses from as little as 12.50. Daily 511pm.

Eating and drinkingRestaurants RestaurantsGrachtengordel south Grachtengordel southIndonesian [image]Bojo Lange Leidsedwarsstraat 51 020/622 7434. One of the best-value Indonesian places in town. Recommended for its young, lively atmosphere and late opening hours, though the food itself is very much a hit-and-miss affair, and you may have to wait a long time both for a table and service. Main courses average 913. MonThurs 4pm2am, Fri 4pm4am, Sat noon4am, Sun noon2am. Lange Leidsedwarsstraat 51 020/622 7434. One of the best-value Indonesian places in town. Recommended for its young, lively atmosphere and late opening hours, though the food itself is very much a hit-and-miss affair, and you may have to wait a long time both for a table and service. Main courses average 913. MonThurs 4pm2am, Fri 4pm4am, Sat noon4am, Sun noon2am.

Puri Mas Lange Leidsedwarsstraat 37 020/627 7627. Exceptionally good-value Indonesian restaurant near the Leidseplein. Friendly and informed service preludes spectacular Lange Leidsedwarsstraat 37 020/627 7627. Exceptionally good-value Indonesian restaurant near the Leidseplein. Friendly and informed service preludes spectacular rijsttafels rijsttafels, both meat and vegetarian. Main courses from 15. Daily from 6pm.

Tujuh Maret Utrechtsestraat 73 020/427 9865. Impressive Indonesian food, notable for its rich combinations which don"t compromise on authentic taste. Mains 1525. Daily noon10pm, Sun evening only. Utrechtsestraat 73 020/427 9865. Impressive Indonesian food, notable for its rich combinations which don"t compromise on authentic taste. Mains 1525. Daily noon10pm, Sun evening only.

Eating and drinkingRestaurants RestaurantsGrachtengordel south Grachtengordel southItalian D"Antica Reguliersdwarsstraat 80 020/623 3862. Long-established restaurant serving authentic Italian cuisine in plain but pleasant premises; no pizza, and dreadful chips, but otherwise perfectly fine. Main courses average 25. MonThurs 611pm, Fri & Sat 6pmmidnight. Reguliersdwarsstraat 80 020/623 3862. Long-established restaurant serving authentic Italian cuisine in plain but pleasant premises; no pizza, and dreadful chips, but otherwise perfectly fine. Main courses average 25. MonThurs 611pm, Fri & Sat 6pmmidnight.

Eating and drinkingRestaurants RestaurantsGrachtengordel south Grachtengordel southj.a.panese j.a.pan-Inn Leidsekruisstraat 4 020/620 4989. Warm and welcoming restaurant in the midst of the Leidseplein buzz. Sushi and sashimi popular with j.a.panese tourists and Dutch business folk alike. Main courses range from 15 to 35. Daily 5pmmidnight. Leidsekruisstraat 4 020/620 4989. Warm and welcoming restaurant in the midst of the Leidseplein buzz. Sushi and sashimi popular with j.a.panese tourists and Dutch business folk alike. Main courses range from 15 to 35. Daily 5pmmidnight.

Tomo Sushi Reguliersdwarsstraat 131 020/528 5208. Quality, hip j.a.panese grill and sushi place, popular with a young, professional crowd. Mains begin at 17. Daily 5.3010.30pm. Reguliersdwarsstraat 131 020/528 5208. Quality, hip j.a.panese grill and sushi place, popular with a young, professional crowd. Mains begin at 17. Daily 5.3010.30pm.

Eating and drinkingRestaurants RestaurantsGrachtengordel south Grachtengordel southThai Dynasty Reguliersdwarsstraat 30 020/626 8400. Lavishly appointed restaurant all orchids and murals offering a first-rate choice of Indochinese food, with both Vietnamese and Thai options. Main courses from 20. Daily except Tues 5.3010.30pm. Reguliersdwarsstraat 30 020/626 8400. Lavishly appointed restaurant all orchids and murals offering a first-rate choice of Indochinese food, with both Vietnamese and Thai options. Main courses from 20. Daily except Tues 5.3010.30pm.

Eating and drinkingRestaurants RestaurantsGrachtengordel south Grachtengordel southVegetarian and organic Golden Temple Utrechtsestraat 126 020/626 8560. Laid-back place with a little more soul than the average Amsterdam veggie joint. Inexpensive, well-prepared, lacto-vegetarian food and pleasant, attentive service. No alcohol. Daily noon3pm & 59.30pm. Utrechtsestraat 126 020/626 8560. Laid-back place with a little more soul than the average Amsterdam veggie joint. Inexpensive, well-prepared, lacto-vegetarian food and pleasant, attentive service. No alcohol. Daily noon3pm & 59.30pm.

Eating and drinkingRestaurants RestaurantsThe Jordaan and Western docklands Eating and drinkingRestaurants RestaurantsThe Jordaan and Western docklands The Jordaan and Western docklandsAfrican Semhar Marnixstraat 259 020/638 1634. This small and popular restaurant"s simple but authentic Ethiopian menu features meat, fish or vegetable dishes, such as lamb, catfish or chickpeas, soaked up with a large, flat, spongy bread. The vegetarian dish of lentils, spinach and pumpkin is delicious. Also try the African beer served in a Marnixstraat 259 020/638 1634. This small and popular restaurant"s simple but authentic Ethiopian menu features meat, fish or vegetable dishes, such as lamb, catfish or chickpeas, soaked up with a large, flat, spongy bread. The vegetarian dish of lentils, spinach and pumpkin is delicious. Also try the African beer served in a calabash calabash. Mains from 10.50. Daily except Mon 410pm.

Eating and drinkingRestaurants RestaurantsThe Jordaan and Western docklands The Jordaan and Western docklandsDutch and Modern European Balthazar"s Keuken Elandsgracht 108 020/420 2114. As the name suggests ( Elandsgracht 108 020/420 2114. As the name suggests (keuken being kitchen), this restaurant makes you feel like you"ve accidentally stumbled into someone"s kitchen. The weekly changing three-course menu is more sophisticated, made with only the freshest ingredients. Make sure to book ahead, as they have limited opening hours and tend to fill up quickly. WedFri from 6pm. being kitchen), this restaurant makes you feel like you"ve accidentally stumbled into someone"s kitchen. The weekly changing three-course menu is more sophisticated, made with only the freshest ingredients. Make sure to book ahead, as they have limited opening hours and tend to fill up quickly. WedFri from 6pm.

Claes Claesz Egelantiersstraat 24 020/625 5306. Exceptionally friendly Jordaan restaurant that attracts a mixed crowd and serves excellent Dutch food. Fridays and Sat.u.r.days feature various Dutch theatrical and musical acts between courses. Their three-course menu will set you back about 27. WedSun 611pm. Egelantiersstraat 24 020/625 5306. Exceptionally friendly Jordaan restaurant that attracts a mixed crowd and serves excellent Dutch food. Fridays and Sat.u.r.days feature various Dutch theatrical and musical acts between courses. Their three-course menu will set you back about 27. WedSun 611pm.

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Claes Claesz De Eettuin 2e Tuindwarsstraat 10 020/623 7706. Hefty, eminently affordable portions of Dutch food, with salad from a self-service bar. Non-meat-eaters can content themselves with a choice of tasty vegetarian dishes, and all mains (from 14) come with a choice of rice or potatoes. Daily 5.3011.30pm. 2e Tuindwarsstraat 10 020/623 7706. Hefty, eminently affordable portions of Dutch food, with salad from a self-service bar. Non-meat-eaters can content themselves with a choice of tasty vegetarian dishes, and all mains (from 14) come with a choice of rice or potatoes. Daily 5.3011.30pm.

Jur Egelantiersgracht 72 020/423 4287. Friendly restaurant and bar serving a varied menu, including fish, steaks and cheese fondue. Main courses 1518. TuesFri from 4pm till late, Sat & Sun from noon. Egelantiersgracht 72 020/423 4287. Friendly restaurant and bar serving a varied menu, including fish, steaks and cheese fondue. Main courses 1518. TuesFri from 4pm till late, Sat & Sun from noon.

Moeders Rozengracht 251 020/626 7957. Really cosy restaurant just across from the Singelgracht whose theme is obvious from the moment you step inside mothers ( Rozengracht 251 020/626 7957. Really cosy restaurant just across from the Singelgracht whose theme is obvious from the moment you step inside mothers (moeders), photos of thousands of whom plaster the walls. You"re welcome to bring your own mother along, but if not then just savour the moderately priced Dutch staples and daily specials traditional food, well presented and with the odd modern twist. Mains 13 and up, three-course menus 2630. Daily 510.30pm.

Eating and drinkingRestaurants RestaurantsThe Jordaan and Western docklands The Jordaan and Western docklandsFish Albatros Westerstraat 264 020/627 9932. Nautically themed, family-run restaurant, with a cosy conservatory out front, serving some mouthwateringly imaginative fish dishes. A great place to splash out and linger over a meal; mains from 25; three-course menu 35. Daily except Tues & Wed 611pm. Westerstraat 264 020/627 9932. Nautically themed, family-run restaurant, with a cosy conservatory out front, serving some mouthwateringly imaginative fish dishes. A great place to splash out and linger over a meal; mains from 25; three-course menu 35. Daily except Tues & Wed 611pm.

Eating and drinkingRestaurants RestaurantsThe Jordaan and Western docklands The Jordaan and Western docklandsFrench and Belgian Bordewijk Noordermarkt 7 020/624 3899. A chic, well-lit and roomy restaurant decorated in relaxed, minimalist style and serving delicious French cuisine with Italian gastronomic influences. Mains start at 26. TuesSun 6.3010.30pm. Noordermarkt 7 020/624 3899. A chic, well-lit and roomy restaurant decorated in relaxed, minimalist style and serving delicious French cuisine with Italian gastronomic influences. Mains start at 26. TuesSun 6.3010.30pm.

De Gouden Reael Zandhoek 14 020/623 3883. Fine French food in a unique setting up in the Westerdok. The bar, as described in the novel of the same name by Jan Mens, has a long a.s.sociation with dockworkers. Main courses hover around 1520. Daily 610.30pm. Zandhoek 14 020/623 3883. Fine French food in a unique setting up in the Westerdok. The bar, as described in the novel of the same name by Jan Mens, has a long a.s.sociation with dockworkers. Main courses hover around 1520. Daily 610.30pm.

Eating and drinkingRestaurants RestaurantsThe Jordaan and Western docklands The Jordaan and Western docklandsItalian Burgers Patio 2e Tuindwarsstraat 12 020/623 6854. Despite the name (the site used to be occupied by a butcher"s), there isn"t a burger in sight in this long-established and convivial restaurant, which has managed to retain its informal atmosphere without compromising on service and taste. The food is wonderfully presented, with Italian-inspired dishes and a good choice of daily specials as well as vegetarian options. Mains from 15. Daily from 6pm till late. 2e Tuindwarsstraat 12 020/623 6854. Despite the name (the site used to be occupied by a butcher"s), there isn"t a burger in sight in this long-established and convivial restaurant, which has managed to retain its informal atmosphere without compromising on service and taste. The food is wonderfully presented, with Italian-inspired dishes and a good choice of daily specials as well as vegetarian options. Mains from 15. Daily from 6pm till late.

Cinema Paradiso Westerstraat 186 020/623 7344. Fast-moving restaurant covering all the Italian cla.s.sics with vim and gusto. It"s in a former cinema, complete with chandeliers, and is very popular, so you may have to shout to be heard. Dress to kill/thrill. Pastas and pizzas kick off at around 12. TuesSun 611pm. Westerstraat 186 020/623 7344. Fast-moving restaurant covering all the Italian cla.s.sics with vim and gusto. It"s in a former cinema, complete with chandeliers, and is very popular, so you may have to shout to be heard. Dress to kill/thrill. Pastas and pizzas kick off at around 12. TuesSun 611pm.

[image]Yam Yam Frederik Hendrikstraat 90 020/681 5097. Top pizzeria and Frederik Hendrikstraat 90 020/681 5097. Top pizzeria and trattoria trattoria in a simple, traditonal dining room with an open kitchen. It attracts the couples and hip young parents of the neighbourhood with its excellent pizza toppings, including fresh in a simple, traditonal dining room with an open kitchen. It attracts the couples and hip young parents of the neighbourhood with its excellent pizza toppings, including fresh rucola rucola and truffle sauce. Pizzas 813. Booking strongly advised. TuesSun 610pm. and truffle sauce. Pizzas 813. Booking strongly advised. TuesSun 610pm.

Eating and drinkingRestaurants RestaurantsThe Jordaan and Western docklands The Jordaan and Western docklandsMiddle Eastern Nomads Rozengracht 133 020/344 6401. The place to enjoy Arab meze while comfortably lying on kitschy sofas indulging the thousand and one nights atmosphere. A DJ takes over later in the evening. Meze for around 7. Daily 7pm10.30pm (Fri & Sat till 11pm). Rozengracht 133 020/344 6401. The place to enjoy Arab meze while comfortably lying on kitschy sofas indulging the thousand and one nights atmosphere. A DJ takes over later in the evening. Meze for around 7. Daily 7pm10.30pm (Fri & Sat till 11pm).

Eating and drinkingRestaurants RestaurantsThe Jordaan and Western docklands The Jordaan and Western docklandsSpanish Duende Lindengracht 62 020 420 6692. Wonderful and busy tapas bar (35), with a tiled interior, mismatched wood furniture, and a warm and inviting feel. Also includes a small venue out back for live dance and music performances, including regular flamenco every Sat.u.r.day from 11pm. MonFri 511pm, Sat & Sun 411pm. Lindengracht 62 020 420 6692. Wonderful and busy tapas bar (35), with a tiled interior, mismatched wood furniture, and a warm and inviting feel. Also includes a small venue out back for live dance and music performances, including regular flamenco every Sat.u.r.day from 11pm. MonFri 511pm, Sat & Sun 411pm.

La Oliva Egelantiersstraat 122 020/320 4316. This sleek Jordaan eatery specializes in Egelantiersstraat 122 020/320 4316. This sleek Jordaan eatery specializes in pinxtos pinxtos, the delectable Basque snacks on sticks that make Spanish bar-hopping such a delight. With a nod to Dutch tastes perhaps, this is more of a restaurant than a bar, and the pinxtos pinxtos anything but bite-sized; people come here to sit and feast on the grand works of art that cover the bar. But you"re more than welcome to sit at the bar and sample one or two with a drink. Daily except Tues noon10.30pm. anything but bite-sized; people come here to sit and feast on the grand works of art that cover the bar. But you"re more than welcome to sit at the bar and sample one or two with a drink. Daily except Tues noon10.30pm.

Eating and drinkingRestaurants RestaurantsThe Jordaan and Western docklands The Jordaan and Western docklandsThai Rakang Thai Elandsgracht 29 020/627 5012. Richly decorated restaurant with striking paintings and gla.s.sware. The Thai food is fresh and delicious and not too highly spiced. The adjacent takeaway is of the same good quality. Main courses average around 18. Daily 610.30pm. Elandsgracht 29 020/627 5012. Richly decorated restaurant with striking paintings and gla.s.sware. The Thai food is fresh and delicious and not too highly spiced. The adjacent takeaway is of the same good quality. Main courses average around 18. Daily 610.30pm.

Eating and drinkingRestaurants RestaurantsThe Jordaan and Western docklands The Jordaan and Western docklandsTurkish Divan Elandsgracht 14 020 626 8239. A wonderful, uncomplicated restaurant, with attentive and knowledgeable staff, serving tasty Turkish food good meze along with a selection of fish dishes. Starters around 5, mains 16. Small terrace out front. Daily 511pm. Elandsgracht 14 020 626 8239. A wonderful, uncomplicated restaurant, with attentive and knowledgeable staff, serving tasty Turkish food good meze along with a selection of fish dishes. Starters around 5, mains 16. Small terrace out front. Daily 511pm.

Eating and drinkingRestaurants RestaurantsThe Jordaan and Western docklands The Jordaan and Western docklandsVegetarian and organic De Vliegende Schotel Nieuwe Leliestraat 162 020/625 2041. Perhaps the pick of the city"s cheap and wholesome vegetarian restaurants, "The Flying Saucer" serves delicious food in large portions. Lots of s.p.a.ce and a peaceful ambience. Mains around 10. Daily 410.45pm. Nieuwe Leliestraat 162 020/625 2041. Perhaps the pick of the city"s cheap and wholesome vegetarian restaurants, "The Flying Saucer" serves delicious food in large portions. Lots of s.p.a.ce and a peaceful ambience. Mains around 10. Daily 410.45pm.

Eating and drinkingRestaurants RestaurantsThe Old Jewish Quarter and Eastern docklands Eating and drinkingRestaurants RestaurantsThe Old Jewish Quarter and Eastern docklands The Old Jewish Quarter and Eastern docklandsAfrican Kilimanjaro Rapenburgerplein 6 020/622 3485. Bright African restaurant in a largely forgotten part of town, serving such delicacies as West African antelope goulash, Moroccan tajine and crocodile steak. Vegetarian options available too. Small, moderately priced, simple and super-friendly. TuesSun 510pm. Rapenburgerplein 6 020/622 3485. Bright African restaurant in a largely forgotten part of town, serving such delicacies as West African antelope goulash, Moroccan tajine and crocodile steak. Vegetarian options available too. Small, moderately priced, simple and super-friendly. TuesSun 510pm.

Eating and drinkingRestaurants RestaurantsThe Old Jewish Quarter and Eastern docklands The Old Jewish Quarter and Eastern docklandsChinese Nam Tin Jodenbreeestraat 11 020/428/8508. Vast cavernous restaurant almost opposite the Rembrandthuis that serves dim sum every day between noon and 5pm. Sister restaurant to Jodenbreeestraat 11 020/428/8508. Vast cavernous restaurant almost opposite the Rembrandthuis that serves dim sum every day between noon and 5pm. Sister restaurant to Nam Kee Nam Kee on Zeedijk and one of the best places for dim sum in the city. It serves a large regular menu too. MonSat noon11pm, Sun noon10pm. on Zeedijk and one of the best places for dim sum in the city. It serves a large regular menu too. MonSat noon11pm, Sun noon10pm.

Eating and drinkingRestaurants RestaurantsThe Old Jewish Quarter and Eastern docklands The Old Jewish Quarter and Eastern docklandsDutch and Modern European Fifteen Jollemanshof 9 0900/343 8336. The Amsterdam branch of chef Jamie Oliver"s successful formula, annually giving a bunch of youngsters the chance to prove themselves in a top-notch restaurant. Mediterranean, largely Italian-style menu, with a four-course meal for around 46. Also has a less formal Jollemanshof 9 0900/343 8336. The Amsterdam branch of chef Jamie Oliver"s successful formula, annually giving a bunch of youngsters the chance to prove themselves in a top-notch restaurant. Mediterranean, largely Italian-style menu, with a four-course meal for around 46. Also has a less formal trattoria trattoria and lounge. Daily noon3pm & 611pm. and lounge. Daily noon3pm & 611pm.

[image]Greetje Peperstraat 23 020/779 7450. A cosy, busy restaurant serving Dutch staples with a modern twist. A changing menu reflects the seasons and the favourite dishes of the owner"s mother a native of the southern Netherlands. Superb home cooking in a great atmosphere. TuesSun 510pm, Sat till 11pm. Peperstraat 23 020/779 7450. A cosy, busy restaurant serving Dutch staples with a modern twist. A changing menu reflects the seasons and the favourite dishes of the owner"s mother a native of the southern Netherlands. Superb home cooking in a great atmosphere. TuesSun 510pm, Sat till 11pm.

Koffiehuis van de Volksbond Kadijksplein 4 020/622 1209. Formerly a Communist Party cafe and the place where the local dockworkers used to receive their wages, this is now an Oosterdok neighbourhood restaurant with a varied and filling menu ranging from grilled steak to Thai green curry with mussels. Homely decor and inexpensive food with mains from as little as 12.50. MonSat 610pm, Sun 59pm. No credit cards. Kadijksplein 4 020/622 1209. Formerly a Communist Party cafe and the place where the local dockworkers used to receive their wages, this is now an Oosterdok neighbourhood restaurant with a varied and filling menu ranging from grilled steak to Thai green curry with mussels. Homely decor and inexpensive food with mains from as little as 12.50. MonSat 610pm, Sun 59pm. No credit cards.

Lloyd Hotel Oostelijke Handelskade 34 020/561 3636, Oostelijke Handelskade 34 020/561 3636, www.lloydhotel.com. Situated in the Eastern docklands, just 5min by tram #26 from Centraal Station, this is one of Amsterdam"s most unusual hotels (see "The Old Jewish Quarter and Eastern docklands"). It comes complete with an airy, canteen-like, cafe-restaurant on the ground floor, where they serve a wide range of European dishes made with local ingredients. Mains cost 1220, sandwiches 47. Daily 7am10pm.

Eating and drinkingRestaurants RestaurantsThe Old Jewish Quarter and Eastern docklands The Old Jewish Quarter and Eastern docklandsFish eenvistweevis Schippersgracht 6 020/623 2894. An uncomplicated fish restaurant serving an interesting selection of seafood, such as Thai-style mussels for starters and sea ba.s.s with rosemary and thyme for mains. No menu the waiters will tell you what"s cooking. Mains at around 20. TuesSun 610pm. Schippersgracht 6 020/623 2894. An uncomplicated fish restaurant serving an interesting selection of seafood, such as Thai-style mussels for starters and sea ba.s.s with rosemary and thyme for mains. No menu the waiters will tell you what"s cooking. Mains at around 20. TuesSun 610pm.

Eating and drinkingRestaurants RestaurantsThe Old Jewish Quarter and Eastern docklands The Old Jewish Quarter and Eastern docklandsItalian [image]Rosario Peperstraat 10 020/627 0280. Very attractive, ca.n.a.lside restaurant with smart modern decor serving top-quality Italian food in a slightly out-of-the-way corner of the city. There"s an open kitchen, and the ravioli goes down a storm. Mains from 21. TuesSat 611pm. Peperstraat 10 020/627 0280. Very attractive, ca.n.a.lside restaurant with smart modern decor serving top-quality Italian food in a slightly out-of-the-way corner of the city. There"s an open kitchen, and the ravioli goes down a storm. Mains from 21. TuesSat 611pm.

Eating and drinkingRestaurants RestaurantsThe Museum Quarter and Vondelpark Eating and drinkingRestaurants RestaurantsThe Museum Quarter and Vondelpark The Museum Quarter and VondelparkAfrican Lalibela 1e Helmersstraat 249 020/683 8332. Tram #1 or #6 along Overtoom to Jan Pieter Heijstraat. First-rate Ethiopian restaurant, with a well-balanced menu and attentive service. Mains from 8. Daily 511pm. 1e Helmersstraat 249 020/683 8332. Tram #1 or #6 along Overtoom to Jan Pieter Heijstraat. First-rate Ethiopian restaurant, with a well-balanced menu and attentive service. Mains from 8. Daily 511pm.

Eating and drinkingRestaurants RestaurantsThe Museum Quarter and Vondelpark The Museum Quarter and VondelparkDutch and Modern European Bicken Overtoom 28 020/689 3999. Trendy and minimalist restaurant offering fresh, seasonal products with an international twist. Creative mains will set you back around 23. Daily 5.3010.30pm. Overtoom 28 020/689 3999. Trendy and minimalist restaurant offering fresh, seasonal products with an international twist. Creative mains will set you back around 23. Daily 5.3010.30pm.

[image]Loetje Johannes Vermeerstraat 52 020/662 8173. Excellent steaks, fries and salads are the order of the day at this Johannes Vermeerstraat 52 020/662 8173. Excellent steaks, fries and salads are the order of the day at this eetcafe eetcafe. The service can be touch and go, but the food is great, and fairly inexpensive. The pleasant outdoor terrace in the summer is a bonus. MonFri 11am10pm, Sat evening only.

Eating and drinkingRestaurants RestaurantsThe Museum Quarter and Vondelpark The Museum Quarter and VondelparkFrench and Belgian [image]Gent aan de Sc.h.i.n.kel Theophile de Bockstraat 1 020/388 2851. Situated just outside the top end of the Vondelpark, a five-minute walk across the pedestrian bridge, this lovely corner restaurant overlooking the Sloterkade ca.n.a.l serves mainly Belgian food, and there"s a huge range of bottled Belgian beers to enjoy on the summer terrace. Daily 5.3010pm. Theophile de Bockstraat 1 020/388 2851. Situated just outside the top end of the Vondelpark, a five-minute walk across the pedestrian bridge, this lovely corner restaurant overlooking the Sloterkade ca.n.a.l serves mainly Belgian food, and there"s a huge range of bottled Belgian beers to enjoy on the summer terrace. Daily 5.3010pm.

Le Garage Ruysdaelstraat 54 020/679 7176. This elegant restaurant, with an eclectic French and Italian menu, is popular with a media crowd, since it"s run by the well-known Dutch TV cook Joop Braakhekke. Call to reserve at least a week ahead and dress to impress. Prices are moderate, with mains around 30 and a three-course menu for 45. If you just want a snack, try the c.o.c.ktail bar next door instead. Noon2pm and 611pm; Sat & Sun dinner only. Ruysdaelstraat 54 020/679 7176. This elegant restaurant, with an eclectic French and Italian menu, is popular with a media crowd, since it"s run by the well-known Dutch TV cook Joop Braakhekke. Call to reserve at least a week ahead and dress to impress. Prices are moderate, with mains around 30 and a three-course menu for 45. If you just want a snack, try the c.o.c.ktail bar next door instead. Noon2pm and 611pm; Sat & Sun dinner only.

Eating and drinkingRestaurants RestaurantsThe Museum Quarter and Vondelpark The Museum Quarter and VondelparkGreek Dionysos Overtoom 176 020/689 4441. Inexpensive Greek restaurant just west of the Vondelpark, with a good selection of Overtoom 176 020/689 4441. Inexpensive Greek restaurant just west of the Vondelpark, with a good selection of meze meze and occasional live music. TuesSun 5.3011pm. and occasional live music. TuesSun 5.3011pm.

Eating and drinkingRestaurants RestaurantsThe Museum Quarter and Vondelpark The Museum Quarter and VondelparkIndian Dosa Overtoom 146 020/616 4838. Halfway along the Vondelpark, this brightly lit corner restaurant concentrates on Southern Indian dishes at moderate prices mains begin at around 15. Daily 5.3011.30pm. Overtoom 146 020/616 4838. Halfway along the Vondelpark, this brightly lit corner restaurant concentrates on Southern Indian dishes at moderate prices mains begin at around 15. Daily 5.3011.30pm.

Eating and drinkingRestaurants RestaurantsThe Museum Quarter and Vondelpark The Museum Quarter and VondelparkIndonesian Orient Van Baerlestraat 21 020/673 4958. This moderately priced Indonesian restaurant serves up a wide range of excellently prepared dishes, and vegetarians are very well taken care of. Expect to pay around 25 for a Van Baerlestraat 21 020/673 4958. This moderately priced Indonesian restaurant serves up a wide range of excellently prepared dishes, and vegetarians are very well taken care of. Expect to pay around 25 for a rijsttafel rijsttafel. Daily 510pm.

Sama Sebo P.C. Hooftstraat 27 020/662 8146. Amsterdam"s best-known Indonesian restaurant, especially for its P.C. Hooftstraat 27 020/662 8146. Amsterdam"s best-known Indonesian restaurant, especially for its rijsttafel rijsttafel (27.50), although, if this seems a little pricey, it"s easy to eat more economically by choosing a la carte dishes, and there"s a reasonable set lunch for 15 a head too. The food is usually pretty good, though the waiters can be extravagantly rude. MonSat noon3pm & 510pm. (27.50), although, if this seems a little pricey, it"s easy to eat more economically by choosing a la carte dishes, and there"s a reasonable set lunch for 15 a head too. The food is usually pretty good, though the waiters can be extravagantly rude. MonSat noon3pm & 510pm.

Eating and drinkingRestaurants RestaurantsThe Museum Quarter and Vondelpark The Museum Quarter and VondelparkThai Khorat Top Thai 2e Const. Huygensstraat 64 020/683 1297. Small, simple restaurant serving generous helpings of inexpensive Thai food. Service is efficient, though not always with a smile. Mains from just 11. Daily 410pm. 2e Const. Huygensstraat 64 020/683 1297. Small, simple restaurant serving generous helpings of inexpensive Thai food. Service is efficient, though not always with a smile. Mains from just 11. Daily 410pm.

Eating and drinkingRestaurants RestaurantsThe outer districts Eating and drinkingRestaurants RestaurantsThe outer districts The outer districtsCentral American Il Cantinero Marie Heinekenplein 4 020/618 1844. Right behind Marie Heinekenplein 4 020/618 1844. Right behind the Heineken Experience the Heineken Experience, this fair-sized restaurant has a wide choice of good-value Mexican, Caribbean and Surinamese dishes. Average tapas dish 4.50 and main dishes 16. Worth a visit for its live salsa evenings from 6pm; at 10pm there"s a DJ playing salsa and South American rumba tunes. Daily 4pm1am (Fri & Sat till 3am).

Eating and drinkingRestaurants RestaurantsThe outer districts The outer districtsDutch and Modern European [image]Canvas op de 7e Wibautstraat 150 020/716 3817, Wibautstraat 150 020/716 3817, www.canvasopde7e.nl. The city"s newest hotspot, located in the canteen of a former national newspaper office. It"s on the seventh floor, so panoramic views are guaranteed. Mains like tuna steak or vegetable quiche hover around 15 and are served in an urban setting at long picnic tables. It"s hard to find the entrance, and you need to ring the doorbell to get in, but that adds to the exclusive feel. DJs on most evenings. Daily noon4pm & 610pm.

De Duvel 1e van der Helststraat 59 020/675 7517. Immensely popular and always crowded so be sure to book ahead. Mains like duck breast, 1e van der Helststraat 59 020/675 7517. Immensely popular and always crowded so be sure to book ahead. Mains like duck breast, sate sate and huge salads for around 16. Also a fashionable spot for after-dinner drinks. Daily 11am4pm & 611pm, no lunch on Mon. and huge salads for around 16. Also a fashionable spot for after-dinner drinks. Daily 11am4pm & 611pm, no lunch on Mon.

De Ondeugd Ferdinand Bolstraat 13 020/672 0651. A long-standing local favourite, presenting a French-orientated menu with the occasional Eastern twist. Prices are reasonable, with a decent Ferdinand Bolstraat 13 020/672 0651. A long-standing local favourite, presenting a French-orientated menu with the occasional Eastern twist. Prices are reasonable, with a decent boeuf bourguignon boeuf bourguignon or sea ba.s.s with chorizo sauce at around 18. Daily 611pm. or sea ba.s.s with chorizo sauce at around 18. Daily 611pm.

Hotel de Goudfazant Aambeeldstraat 10 020/636 5170. It"s worth taking the ferry northbound from Centraal Station to try the French-inspired dishes in the industrial setting of this former garage. A three-course menu with seasonal produce will set you back 30.50. Very trendy, so bookings are essential. TuesSun 610pm. Aambeeldstraat 10 020/636 5170. It"s worth taking the ferry northbound from Centraal Station to try the French-inspired dishes in the industrial setting of this former garage. A three-course menu with seasonal produce will set you back 30.50. Very trendy, so bookings are essential. TuesSun 610pm.

Trez Saenredamstraat 39 020/676 2495. Intimate little place, with good views of the chef cooking Mediterranean-inspired dishes in the open kitchen. Limited menu but very reasonably priced with nothing that exceeds 20. Three-course menu for 27.50. TuesThurs 610pm, Fri & Sat till 11pm. Saenredamstraat 39 020/676 2495. Intimate little place, with good views of the chef cooking Mediterranean-inspired dishes in the open kitchen. Limited menu but very reasonably priced with nothing that exceeds 20. Three-course menu for 27.50. TuesThurs 610pm, Fri & Sat till 11pm.

Eating and drinkingRestaurants RestaurantsThe outer districts The outer districtsItalian L"Angoletto Hemonystraat 18 020/676 4182. This small, traditional Hemonystraat 18 020/676 4182. This small, traditional trattoria trattoria in the De Pijp neighbourhood has a reputation for simple, hearty food. It"s inexpensive and always packed, with long wooden tables and benches creating a sociable atmosphere. Service can be slow and plain rude, so just go for the good food and ignore the rest. Not everything they serve is on the menu so keep an eye on the gla.s.s showcase in front of the kitchen for any specials. No bookings, so just turn up and hope for the best. Daily except Sat 611.30pm; closed Aug. in the De Pijp neighbourhood has a reputation for simple, hearty food. It"s inexpensive and always packed, with long wooden tables and benches creating a sociable atmosphere. Service can be slow and plain rude, so just go for the good food and ignore the rest. Not everything they serve is on the menu so keep an eye on the gla.s.s showcase in front of the kitchen for any specials. No bookings, so just turn up and hope for the best. Daily except Sat 611.30pm; closed Aug.

[image]Palma Johannes Verhulststraat 104 020/379 5900. See map " Johannes Verhulststraat 104 020/379 5900. See map "Nieuw Zuid". Within comfortable walking distance of the Concertgebouw, this excellent southern European and Mediterranean mezzanine restaurant, with tables out front for warm summer evenings, offers a good choice of steak, fish and pasta. Portions are large and the atmosphere is relaxed. Three-course menu 37.50, mains 1725. Daily 611pm.

Eating and drinkingRestaurants RestaurantsThe outer districts The outer districtsj.a.panese [image]Yamazato and Teppanyaki Sazanka Ferdinand Bolstraat 333 020/678 7111. Tram #25 from CS to Cornelis Troostplein. Situated in the sw.a.n.ky Ferdinand Bolstraat 333 020/678 7111. Tram #25 from CS to Cornelis Troostplein. Situated in the sw.a.n.ky Okura Hotel Okura Hotel, and dating back over thirty years, this was the first place to serve j.a.panese haute cuisine haute cuisine food in the Netherlands. Today two of the hotel"s four restaurants (including the French food in the Netherlands. Today two of the hotel"s four restaurants (including the French Ciel Bleu Ciel Bleu, on the 23rd floor) have Michelin stars, and this is one of the best places to eat j.a.panese food in the city; Yamazato Yamazato is a very traditional sushi restaurant with over fifty specialities, and an a la carte menu featuring expertly prepared tempura, sashimi and sukiyaki. Reckon on paying 6575 per person. is a very traditional sushi restaurant with over fifty specialities, and an a la carte menu featuring expertly prepared tempura, sashimi and sukiyaki. Reckon on paying 6575 per person. Teppanyaki Sazanka Teppanyaki Sazanka is the renowned grill restaurant, where the chef prepares fish, steaks and vegetables at the table; seasonal menu for 92.50. Advance bookings essential. Daily 6.3010pm. is the renowned grill restaurant, where the chef prepares fish, steaks and vegetables at the table; seasonal menu for 92.50. Advance bookings essential. Daily 6.3010pm.

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Yamazato Eating and drinkingRestaurants RestaurantsThe outer districts The outer districtsMiddle Eastern Artist 2e Jan Steenstraat 1 020/671 4264. A small Lebanese restaurant just off Albert Cuypstraat. Inexpensive, though not a place for a drawn-out meal. Set menus 13, smaller dishes around 6. Daily except Mon 510pm. 2e Jan Steenstraat 1 020/671 4264. A small Lebanese restaurant just off Albert Cuypstraat. Inexpensive, though not a place for a drawn-out meal. Set menus 13, smaller dishes around 6. Daily except Mon 510pm.

Eating and drinkingRestaurants RestaurantsThe outer districts The outer districtsSpanish Mas Tapas Saenredamstraat 37 020/664 0066. Small, Moorish-style restaurant with mosaic tiles everywhere, serving inexpensive tapas (4.75) and an interesting variety of main dishes (9.5011.50). There"s outside seating, too, on a leafy intersection. ThursSun 4.3010.30pm (also Wednesday in summer). Saenredamstraat 37 020/664 0066. Small, Moorish-style restaurant with mosaic tiles everywhere, serving inexpensive tapas (4.75) and an interesting variety of main dishes (9.5011.50). There"s outside seating, too, on a leafy intersection. ThursSun 4.3010.30pm (also Wednesday in summer).

Eating and drinkingRestaurants RestaurantsThe outer districts The outer districtsSurinamese Warung Swietie 1e Sweelinckstraat 1 020/671 5833. Cheap and cheerful SurinameseJavanese 1e Sweelinckstraat 1 020/671 5833. Cheap and cheerful SurinameseJavanese eetcafe eetcafe, with only a few seats. Budget prices: nothing over 10. Daily 11am9pm, Sun from 2pm.

Eating and drinkingRestaurants RestaurantsThe outer districts The outer districtsTurkish Saray Gerard Doustraat 33 020/671 9216. Excellent Turkish eatery in the De Pijp neighbourhood. It"s cheap too, with an intimate living-room ambience and main courses for 11.5014.50; mixed meze from 7 per person. TuesSun 511pm. Gerard Doustraat 33 020/671 9216. Excellent Turkish eatery in the De Pijp neighbourhood. It"s cheap too, with an intimate living-room ambience and main courses for 11.5014.50; mixed meze from 7 per person. TuesSun 511pm.

Eating and drinkingRestaurants RestaurantsThe outer districts The outer districtsVegetarian and organic De Waaghals Frans Halsstraat 29 020/679 9609. Well-prepared organic dishes in this cooperative-run restaurant near the Albert Cuypmarkt. This place gets busy early so book ahead to be sure of a table. The menu changes twice a month, and though food takes a while to prepare, the results are generous and delicious. Mains around 13. TuesSun 59.30pm. Frans Halsstraat 29 020/679 9609. Well-prepared organic dishes in this cooperative-run restaurant near the Albert Cuypmarkt. This place gets busy early so book ahead to be sure of a table. The menu changes twice a month, and though food takes a while to prepare, the results are generous and delicious. Mains around 13. TuesSun 59.30pm.

De Witte Uyl Frans Halsstraat 26 020/670 0458. Good restaurant serving free-range poultry and meat and organic vegetables; dishes include grilled barramundi and home-made goat sausages. Two-course menu 39.50. TuesSat 611pm. Frans Halsstraat 26 020/670 0458. Good restaurant serving free-range poultry and meat and organic vegetables; dishes include grilled barramundi and home-made goat sausages. Two-course menu 39.50. TuesSat 611pm.

Eating and drinkingCoffeeshops This is the one Western country where the purchase of cannabis cannabis has been de-criminalized (see " has been de-criminalized (see "Drugs"), the most conspicuous result of which has been the rise of the licensed coffeeshop coffeeshop, selling bags of dope in much the same way as bars sell gla.s.ses of beer. When you first walk into a coffeeshop, however, it isn"t immediately apparent how to buy the stuff it"s illegal to advertise cannabis in any way, which includes calling attention to the fact that it"s available at all. What you have to do is ask to see the menu menu, which is normally kept behind the counter. This will list all the different hashes and gra.s.ses on offer, along with (if it"s a reputable place) exactly how many grams you get for your money. The in-house dealer will be able to help you out with queries. The seedier coffeeshops are concentrated in and around the Red Light District; the more congenial in the Grachtengordel. Current prices prices per gram of hash and marijuana range from 10 for low-grade stuff up to 25 for top-quality hash, and as high as 60 for really strong gra.s.s; most coffeeshops open around 10am or 11am and close around midnight. per gram of hash and marijuana range from 10 for low-grade stuff up to 25 for top-quality hash, and as high as 60 for really strong gra.s.s; most coffeeshops open around 10am or 11am and close around midnight.

The hash hash on sale originates in various countries and is pretty self-explanatory, apart from Pollem, which is compressed resin and stronger than normal. on sale originates in various countries and is pretty self-explanatory, apart from Pollem, which is compressed resin and stronger than normal. Marijuana Marijuana is a different story, and the old days of imported Colombian, Thai and sensimilia are fading away; taking their place are limitless varieties of is a different story, and the old days of imported Colombian, Thai and sensimilia are fading away; taking their place are limitless varieties of Nederwiet Nederwiet Dutch-grown under UV lights and more potent than anything you"re likely to have come across. Skunk, Haze and Northern Lights are all popular types of Dutch weed, and should be treated with caution a smoker of low-grade British draw will be laid low (or high) for hours by a single spliff of skunk. You would be equally well advised to take care with Dutch-grown under UV lights and more potent than anything you"re likely to have come across. Skunk, Haze and Northern Lights are all popular types of Dutch weed, and should be treated with caution a smoker of low-grade British draw will be laid low (or high) for hours by a single spliff of skunk. You would be equally well advised to take care with s.p.a.ce-cakes s.p.a.ce-cakes (cakes or biscuits baked with hash), which are widely available: you can never be sure exactly what"s in them and they tend to have a delayed reaction (up to two hours before you notice anything strange don"t get impatient and gobble down another one!). Once they kick in, they can bring on an extremely intense, bewildering high ten to twelve hours is common. You may also come across cannabis seeds for growing your own; while locals are permitted to grow a small amount of marijuana for personal use, the import of cannabis seeds is illegal in any country, so don"t even think about trying to take some home. (cakes or biscuits baked with hash), which are widely available: you can never be sure exactly what"s in them and they tend to have a delayed reaction (up to two hours before you notice anything strange don"t get impatient and gobble down another one!). Once they kick in, they can bring on an extremely intense, bewildering high ten to twelve hours is common. You may also come across cannabis seeds for growing your own; while locals are permitted to grow a small amount of marijuana for personal use, the import of cannabis seeds is illegal in any country, so don"t even think about trying to take some home.

Although it might be tempting, don"t buy drugs of any sort on the street; if you do, you"re simply asking for trouble. The www.coffeeshop.freeuk.com website gives potted descriptions of all the city"s main coffeeshops. The locations of those listed below are marked on the colour website gives potted descriptions of all the city"s main coffeeshops. The locations of those listed below are marked on the colour maps maps at the back of this book. at the back of this book.

Eating and drinkingCoffeeshops CoffeeshopsSmoking ban Smoking banA serious hurdle for coffeeshops was the new law new law introduced in July 2008, banning the smoking of tobacco in public areas, including restaurants and bars. Many of them feared closure, but the coffeeshops bounced back with creative solutions, such as selling introduced in July 2008, banning the smoking of tobacco in public areas, including restaurants and bars. Many of them feared closure, but the coffeeshops bounced back with creative solutions, such as selling pure weed joints pure weed joints (not for the faint-hearted!) or joints mixed with (not for the faint-hearted!) or joints mixed with tobacco subst.i.tutes tobacco subst.i.tutes. Like many bars, the larger coffeeshops have also built designated smoking areas.Another major setback was mayor Cohen"s proposal to close down coffeeshops located within 250 metres of a high school, following cities like Rotterdam and The Hague. If this law goes ahead, 43 coffeeshops, including the famous Bulldog Bulldog on the Leidseplein, will have to close by December 2011. on the Leidseplein, will have to close by December 2011.

Eating and drinkingCoffeeshops CoffeeshopsOld Centre [image]Abraxas Jonge Roelensteeg 12. Quirky mezzanine coffeeshop with spiral staircases that can prove challenging after a spliff. The hot chocolate with added hash is not for the susceptible. Daily 10am1am. Jonge Roelensteeg 12. Quirky mezzanine coffeeshop with spiral staircases that can prove challenging after a spliff. The hot chocolate with added hash is not for the susceptible. Daily 10am1am.

The Bulldog Oudezijds Voorburgwal 132. The biggest and most famous of the coffeeshop chains with three Oudezijds Voorburgwal outlets at nos. 90, 132 and 218. This one is open daily 10am1am, till 2am at weekends. Oudezijds Voorburgwal 132. The biggest and most famous of the coffeeshop chains with three Oudezijds Voorburgwal outlets at nos. 90, 132 and 218. This one is open daily 10am1am, till 2am at weekends.

[image]Dampkring Handboogstraat 29. Colourful coffeeshop with loud music and laid-back atmosphere, known for its good-quality hash. Daily 10am1am. Handboogstraat 29. Colourful coffeeshop with loud music and laid-back atmosphere, known for its good-quality hash. Daily 10am1am.

Extase Oude Hoogstraat 2. Part of a chain run by the founder of the Hash Museum (see " Oude Hoogstraat 2. Part of a chain run by the founder of the Hash Museum (see "Oudezijds Achterburgwal"). Considerably less chichi than the better-known coffeeshops, but a handy Red Light District standby. Daily 10am1am.

Gra.s.shopper Oudebrugsteeg 16. This multi-level coffeeshop, with bar, sports screen and restaurant, has tried to steal some thunder from Oudebrugsteeg 16. This multi-level coffeeshop, with bar, sports screen and restaurant, has tried to steal some thunder from The Bulldog The Bulldog over recent years, and is one of the city"s more welcoming places for visitors, although its proximity to Centraal Station means that at times it can be overwhelmed by tourists. There"s another branch the original at Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 59. Daily 8am1am. over recent years, and is one of the city"s more welcoming places for visitors, although its proximity to Centraal Station means that at times it can be overwhelmed by tourists. There"s another branch the original at Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 59. Daily 8am1am.

Homegrown Fantasy Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 87a. Attached to the Dutch Pa.s.sion Seed Company, this sells the widest selection of marijuana in Amsterdam, most of it local, hence the name. Daily noon11pm, till midnight at weekends. Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 87a. Attached to the Dutch Pa.s.sion Seed Company, this sells the widest selection of marijuana in Amsterdam, most of it local, hence the name. Daily noon11pm, till midnight at weekends.

Kadinsky Rosmarijnsteeg 9. Fairly small, but still the largest of the three branches of this small chain. Strictly accurate deals weighed out to a background of jazz dance. The chocolate chip cookies are to die for. Daily 10am1am, till 2am at weekends. Rosmarijnsteeg 9. Fairly small, but still the largest of the three branches of this small chain. Strictly accurate deals weighed out to a background of jazz dance. The chocolate chip cookies are to die for. Daily 10am1am, till 2am at weekends.

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Kadinsky [image]Rusland Rusland 16. One of the first Amsterdam coffeeshops, a cramped but vibrant place that"s a favourite with both dope fans and tea addicts (it has forty different kinds). A cut above the rest. Daily 10ammidnight, till 1am at weekends. Rusland 16. One of the first Amsterdam coffeeshops, a cramped but vibrant place that"s a favourite with both dope fans and tea addicts (it has forty different kinds). A cut above the rest. Daily 10ammidnight, till 1am at weekends.

Eating and drinkingCoffeeshops CoffeeshopsGrachtengordel west Amnesia Herengracht 133. Stylish and dimly lit coffeeshop with a ca.n.a.lside terrace. Daily 10am1am. Herengracht 133. Stylish and dimly lit coffeeshop with a ca.n.a.lside terrace. Daily 10am1am.

La Tertulia Prinsengracht 312. Tiny corner coffeeshop, complete with indoor rockery and tinkling fountain. Much better outside, though, as it"s on a particularly fine stretch of ca.n.a.l. TuesSat 11am7pm. Prinsengracht 312. Tiny corner coffeeshop, complete with indoor rockery and tinkling fountain. Much better outside, though, as it"s on a particularly fine stretch of ca.n.a.l. TuesSat 11am7pm.

Siberie Brouwersgracht 11. Bright, modern coffeeshop set up by the former staff of Brouwersgracht 11. Bright, modern coffeeshop set up by the former staff of Rusland Rusland and notable for having avoided the over-commercialization of the larger chains. Very relaxed, very friendly, and worth a visit whether you want to smoke or not; has a good selection of magazines as well as a chessboard. Daily 11am11pm (Fri & Sat till midnight). and notable for having avoided the over-commercialization of the larger chains. Very relaxed, very friendly, and worth a visit whether you want to smoke or not; has a good selection of magazines as well as a chessboard. Daily 11am11pm (Fri & Sat till midnight).

Eating and drinkingCoffeeshops CoffeeshopsGrachtengordel south The Bulldog Leidseplein 15 Leidseplein 15 www.bulldog.nl. The biggest and most famous of the coffeeshop chains, and a long way from its pokey Red Light District origins, the main branch of The Bulldog The Bulldog is here on the Leidseplein, housed in a former police station. It has a large c.o.c.ktail bar, coffeeshop, juice bar and souvenir shop, all with separate entrances. It"s big and brash, not at all the place for a quiet smoke, though the dope they sell (packaged up in neat little brand-labelled bags) is reliably good. Daily 9am1am, till 3am at weekends. is here on the Leidseplein, housed in a former police station. It has a large c.o.c.ktail bar, coffeeshop, juice bar and souvenir shop, all with separate entrances. It"s big and brash, not at all the place for a quiet smoke, though the dope they sell (packaged up in neat little brand-labelled bags) is reliably good. Daily 9am1am, till 3am at weekends.

Happy Feelings Kerkstraat 51. Formerly a hippie hangout, this is now a fresh and trendy coffeeshop with flatscreen TVs on the walls, attracting a selective crowd. Daily 1pm1am. Kerkstraat 51. Formerly a hippie hangout, this is now a fresh and trendy coffeeshop with flatscreen TVs on the walls, attracting a selective crowd. Daily 1pm1am.

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