_March 3rd._--Visited the Jesuit"s church, and three schools; phonic and Lancasterian method of learning. Visited the museum, the city, the view from the tower of the cathedral, statues of Rubens, of the Virgin and Saviour. Proceeded to Brussels; visited three schools; courteously received; arrangements good. Visited the Hotel de Ville; Gobelin tapestry; history of Clovis; abdication of Charles V. Paintings. Reflections.
_March 4th._--Spent three hours in examining the field of Waterloo.
Went to Nivelles and visited the Normal School for south Belgium; all the arrangements perfect. Returned to Brussels.
_March 3rd._--Left Brussels for Ghent; met a commissioner at the railway station, and visited the Government Model School; the views of the intelligent master were very excellent. Called on a Doctor to whom I had a letter of introduction. He explained the school system of Belgium with great clearness. Visited the prison, the celebrated establishment that excited the admiration of Howard, and after the model of which several prisons in England and America have been built. There were about twelve hundred prisoners--arrangements wonderful, discipline apparently perfect--kept by twenty-eight men. Visited a poorhouse, a benevolent establishment to a.s.sist poor old people; about three hundred inmates; grateful feelings, sympathy. Visited the celebrated convent, containing about eight hundred nuns, who come and remain voluntarily; none, it is said, have ever left. Visited the university buildings--the best I have seen on the continent; lecture-rooms very fine. Left for Lille, in France; courteously treated at the French custom house.
_March 8th--Paris._--On our way from Lille we crossed a branch of the Rhine and the Meuse on the ice; country level and well cultivated; pa.s.sed Cambray and other towns. Walked to the park, Tuileries, to the Triumphal Arch of Napoleon--a world of magnificence.
_March 9th._--Studying French; walked through and around the Palais Royale in the boulevards--n.o.ble, splendid.
_March 10th--Sunday._--Attended the Wesleyan chapel--about one hundred present--then the English Church; thence to the Madeleine Church--most magnificent; congregation vast; music and chanting excellent beyond description; discourse read; paintings and sculpture fine; church built by Napoleon.
_March 11th._--Went to Dr. Grampier, the director of the French Protestant Evangelical Mission, a pious man, an able author, at the head of an excellent inst.i.tution having missions in Africa as well as in different parts of France.
_March 12th._--Removed to new lodgings; tolerably comfortable.
_March 13th._--Went to the university; heard lecture on history; Attended an evening party at Dr. Grampier"s; was introduced to several gentlemen of rank and wealth. Singing and reading of the Scriptures; much pleased with the party; as many ladies as gentlemen; a.s.sembled at eight, broke up at eleven o"clock.
_March 14th._--Heard a most splendid lecture on astronomy from the celebrated Arago; audience very large; the professor had no notes; the subject was light--comets, causes of the changes in the color of the stars, etc., etc.; lecture two hours, much cheered.
_March 15th._--Went to the French Chamber of Deputies; saw Guizot.
Difference between the French Chamber of Deputies and the British House of Commons struck me--1st. The more ample accommodations for members; 2nd. The little attention which appeared to be paid to the President of the Chamber; 3rd. In the members going to the tribune to speak, and reading their speeches; 4th. In the position of the different officers of the House; 5th. The fine appearance of the servants, and the very convenient accommodations for them; 6th. The superior accommodations for strangers. Heard two lectures at the university, one on mineralogy; lecture good; specimens numerous--the other on electricity; splendid lecturer; fine ill.u.s.trations.
_March 16th--Sunday._--Went to the Oratoire, the princ.i.p.al Protestant place of worship; about seventy catechumens admitted; the dress of the females white. Sermon by Mr. Monod; text--"_Mon fils, donne-moi ton coeur_;" very practical and impressive; the singing peculiarly touching. He is a complete talking machine; read from Lamartine, as did M. Delille beautifully and effectively.
_March 17th._--Close application to the study of French all day.
Anecdotes at breakfast respecting the pride of Victor Hugo. Walked along the Seine, then across the river into Notre Dame--the Westminister Abbey of Paris--worthy of the appellation.
_March 18th._--Pursued my studies till 7 p.m., when I attended a party given by Count Gasparin, M.H.D., who, with his father, is styled the Wilberforce of France--the one being a member of the House of Peers, the other of the House of Deputies. They are regarded as the representatives of Protestantism in the French Legislature. Had a good deal of conversation with Dr. Grampier, on the strength, state, and prospects of Protestantism in France; also the mode of instructing young persons for public recognition in the Church, and admission to the Holy Communion. These catechumens are instructed two or three times a week, for six months, in the evidences, doctrines, and morals of Christianity. They are then examined, and if they shew themselves qualified, they are publicly admitted. The ceremony of admission takes place twice a year, a little before Easter, and at Pentecost. None are admitted under fifteen years of age. Dr. Grampier considered that Protestantism was decidedly gaining upon Popery; and that his own university had been as successful amongst the Catholics, as amongst Protestants, in genuine heart conversions; that whole congregations in some parts of France had embraced Protestantism. His remarks respecting Guizot were interesting and curious. The mother of this great man is now eighty-four years of age, a woman of great vigour of mind; a saint, and nursing-mother in Israel; she offers daily prayers for her son. Guizot is an orthodox Protestant, employed Dr. Grampier to instruct and prepare his children for the Holy Communion, but never goes to church himself, but has told Dr. Grampier that he prays every day. He has been much afflicted in the loss of two wives whom he greatly loved; and also of a son, about twenty-one, a young man of most amiable disposition, great acquirements, talents and virtues. Conversed also with Count Gasparin, who appears to be a truly converted man; spoke of the inefficiency of a formal religion, and the necessity of the religion of the heart. Mentioned the readiness of Roman Catholics to hear Protestant missionaries.
He believes that G.o.d is about to do a great work in France. The Count is an author; his father has been Minister of the Interior.
_March 19th._--Heard lecture on chemistry by Prof. Dumas, one of the ablest chemists of the present day, and a most eloquent lecturer.
_March 20th--Good Friday._--Went to hear a Protestant clergyman, one of the most pious and able ministers in Paris; his manner unaffected, eloquent, and impressive. No organ; singing good, all sang. It being a holy day, crowds were everywhere; streets for miles were filled with three, and sometimes four lines of carriages, of all descriptions; the broad sidewalks were literally crowded with pedestrians, forming solid ma.s.ses from twenty to fifty feet wide, and extending two miles. Order was preserved by soldiers and cavalry, stationed at short distances. I never saw such a moving ma.s.s of people, embracing, no doubt, every nation in Europe and America. The attractions of the harlequins, jugglers, hucksters, etc., of all descriptions, surpa.s.s imagination. I walked to Napoleon"s Arch of Triumph; observed the inscriptions and remarkable figures on that elegant and extraordinary structure; ascended to the top, and there enjoyed one of the most magnificent views I ever beheld, embracing all Paris and its environs for many miles, the day being cloudless; the serpentine Seine, the richly cultivated country, its parks, its gardens, its arcades of trees, its villas, churches, colleges, hospitals, palaces, squares, and monuments, together with the elegant Tuileries, the n.o.ble Louvre, the magnificent Champs Elysees, the playing fountains, the s.p.a.cious streets, and the moving ma.s.ses of people, presented a scene which for variety, splendour, and I may add, solemnity, could not be excelled by any prospect that might have been commanded on the pinnacle of Jerusalem"s Temple. In fifty years the ma.s.s of this vast mult.i.tude will be numbered amongst a bygone generation; and these stately works of art shall perish. What a worm am I amongst such a mult.i.tude! yet I am destined to immortality; have but a few years to live in a probationary state, but an eternity to exist!
_March 21st._--Went to the Louvre to see the paintings; about two thousand in number; some large and splendid, many beautiful, and some affecting; none of the paintings from sacred history equal those I have seen in England, Holland, and Belgium, especially in Antwerp.
_March 22nd--Easter._--Went to the Oratoire, where a discourse was delivered, and the Lord"s Supper celebrated. The preacher, Mons.
Venueil, was so impressive and affecting that the greater part of the congregation were in tears several times. Being Easter Sunday, his subject was the resurrection, of Christ. He reminded me of Saurin. The spectacle presented of the communicants standing around a long table, and the minister in the midst, at one side, distributing the emblems with suitable addresses, reminded me of pictures I have seen of Christ at the Last Supper. The catechumens who had been received on the previous Sabbath, first partook. I, for the first time, communed with French Protestants, and I felt it good to be there. I attended the Wesleyan chapel; service in French; congregation about seventy-five; preacher (a little Frenchman), quite animated; he quoted many pa.s.sages of Scripture, chapter and verse, proving the universality of the Atonement. The communion followed.
_March 24th, 1845._--This day I am forty-two years of age! My life is more than half gone, at the best. The recollections of the past year are painful and humiliating beyond expression. It has been the least spiritual year of my Christian life. For some weeks past I have been revived in my purposes, devotions and enjoyments. By G.o.d"s grace, my future life and labours shall be His. I have never before felt so keenly the weakness and depravity of the human heart; nor have I ever felt so deeply the necessity and the sufficiency of the atoning blood of Christ. He is all. All is wretchedness and death without Him.
_March 26th._--Worked very hard at my French studies; much discouraged, but must not abandon my efforts to speak a new language. Visited the Pantheon--wondrous structure--a sovereign"s pride, and a nation"s monument. Visited the tombs of the dead; ascended to the dome--magnificent view; fine paintings in fresco.
My impressions will never be effaced. This evening was in company with Count Gasparin and his n.o.ble father, and Mr. Monod, one of the princ.i.p.al Protestant ministers in Paris. Mr. Monod spoke strongly of Puseyism; mentioned that he was at a school this week where there were twelve Protestant young ladies sent from England to be educated in a Papal school, and every one of them had become Roman Catholics. He told me there was no intercourse between the Protestants in France and Holland; he considers vital religion is advancing in Holland.
_March 27th._--Went to the Observatoire; heard lecture from Mons.
Arago; room crowded. Visited the beautiful gardens of the Luxembourg.
_March 30th._--Heard Mons. Armand Delille (my host) preach, in Dr.
Grampier"s Church; impressive service, and a comfortable place of worship outside the gates of the city.
_March 31st._--Commenced receiving lessons in French from Mons. O.
De Lille; believe I shall soon be able to speak. The name of G.o.d be praised for His help and blessing!
_April 2nd._--Went to the College (Sorbonne); heard a lecture on Botany.
_April 3rd._--Was strongly talked with for not speaking French; Oh, that G.o.d would help me; I desire to employ it to His honour. Heard Mons. Arago on Astronomy.
_April 5th._--Commenced conversing in French, in good earnest.
Heard a lecture by Mons. Despretz on Modern History, in which the eloquent lecturer drew a parallel between France and Rome, and the reign of Augustus and the career of Buonaparte, of course in favour of the latter.
_April 6th--Sabbath._--Attended church both morning and evening.
Received this morning a present of several books in French from the pious author of them; read the description and reflections upon "Jesus Benissant les Enfants"; was deeply affected with the remembrance of the manner in which my most pious and excellent mother brought me, in various ways, to the Saviour, when I was a little boy. I owe my all to her, as a divinely-owned instrument, in my early conversion and dedication of myself to G.o.d and His Church.
She is now on the verge of heaven--may grace strengthen me to meet her there.
_April 7th._--Heard four lectures this day on law, chemistry, theology, and philosophy. The lecture on theology was on the authenticity of the Scriptures--comparing the prophecies of Isaiah with the narrative of the evangelists. Lecture on philosophy was devoted to an admirable a.n.a.lysis of Locke.
_April 8th._--Attended four lectures at the university at 9 o"clock. "Droit de la nature et des nations," (in the college of France) by Mons. de Postels; "Poesie latine," by M. Patin, the subject was Horace; "Anatomie, physiologie comp. et zoologie," by De Blainville; much of geological theory; "Physique-Acoustique," by M. Despretz; musical instruments.
_April 9th._--Have attended five lectures: "Histoire de Litterature Grecque," by Egger; "Histoire Ecclesiastique," by l"Abbe Jager; "Botanique anat. et Physiologie Vegetales," by Payer; "Theologie Morale," by l"Abbe Receveur.
_April 10th._--Attended three full lectures, and part of a fourth.
1st. Eloquence latine--Cicero, by M. Hanet; 2nd. Histoire Moderne, by M. Michelet, celebrated, (College de France) crowded audience and much applause; 3rd. Litterature Grecque; 4th. Histoire Moderne, par M. Sornement. I understood more than I ever did before. The name of the Lord be praised!
_April 11th._--Attended five lectures. 1st. Civil Law of France; 2nd. Astronomical Geography; 3rd. Sacred Literature; 4th. Botany and Vegetable Physiology; 5th. French Eloquence. Read French and English with a young collegian. The name of the Lord be praised for the goodness of this day, and for the success of my labours!
_April 12th._--Was enabled to make a long recitation this morning, and have attended five lectures at the university. Received a parcel from London, furnishing me with Canadian papers; how refreshing is news from home in a foreign country. Thus has my heavenly Father blest me with all good things.
_April 13th--Sabbath._--Attended service at the Chapelle Tailbout; M. Bridel preached on prayer; thence to the Wesleyan Chapel, which was crowded. Read the religious intelligence from Canada. I rejoice to hear of the doings of my brethren; the success of the work in their hands; hope still to labour with them.
_April 14th._--Attended four lectures at the university, besides my studies. I pray my heavenly Father to a.s.sist and prosper my exertions. I can do nothing without confidence in Him. To the glory of His name shall the fruit of my unworthy labours be consecrated.
_April 15th._--Attended the meeting of the "Societe des Introits generaux du Protestantisme francais." Proceedings commenced with prayer. The meeting was addressed by a number of pasteurs; most of the speakers had notes. Also attended the annual meeting of the "Societe des Traites religieux" in the Chapelle Tailbout; report well read; speeches short and energetic.
_April 16th._--Attended the Conference of the Protestant Pastors, in the Consistory of the Oratoire. About sixty present; the proceedings opened with prayer. The President then asked the members present to propose the subject of their friendly conversation; several were proposed. Two hours brotherly conversation took place on the duties, powers, and interests of the synod. Most of those who spoke had notes; delivered their sentiments sitting; were asked in order. Attended the twenty-fifth anniversary of the "Societe Biblique Protestante;" commenced with prayer and singing. The Count de Gasparin spoke extemporaneously, and with great elegance and ease. A number spoke with energy and force; the last speaker selected pa.s.sages to show that the Gospel is not incomprehensible to the vulgar, as Romanists a.s.sert; also attended the annual meeting of the "Societe Evangelique de France;"
Chairman read a very short address; several spoke; M. de Gasparin concluded by prayer.
_April 17th._--Attended the Conference of Pastors; the proceedings the same as yesterday. At the annual meeting of the "Societe des Missions Evangelique;" the chair was occupied by a venerable old man, who seemed, from the allusions made, to be an old friend and supporter of the Society. The aged President read with a feeble voice a short address. There were nine speakers; the last the venerable Monod, who delivered a charge and parting address to the young men who were going to Africa. He embraced in his address the marrow of the Gospel, its power, its promises, its preciousness.
The young men were deeply affected, as were all present. He directed them to the power and promises of Christ; a.s.sured them of the continued sympathy of the Protestant pastors and churches of France. Another pastor volunteered a few words of address to the young men, on the distribution of religious tracts, and everywhere proclaiming themselves as the missionaries of Christ from France.
There was a most affectionate greeting of pastors and old friends.
In the Consistory Chapel of the Oratoire de l"Eglise, there are four busts of ministers whose memory is cherished by their survivors. The names and epitaphs are as follows:--(1) F.
Methezet--"Il se repose de ses travaux et ses oeuvres le suivent." (2) J.A. Barbant--"Je sais en qui j"ai cru." (3) J.
Monod--"Christ est ma vie, et la mort est gain." (4) P. H.
Marron--"O mort ou est ton aiguillon! O sepulcre ou est ta victoire!"
_April 18th._--Attended the annual meeting of the "Societe Biblique Francoise et Etrangere." Count de Gasparin in the chair; speeches spirited; details of report interesting and encouraging. Went to Dr. Grampier"s; a social meeting of pastors, to converse and pray on the subject of Missions; subject of conversations; the Missionary work and spirit. From thence went to an annual party, where there was much of fashion and elegance; magnificent tea; peculiar manners; conversed with Mr. Touse, an English clergyman, and with M. G. de Gasparin.
_April 19th._--Attended the annual meeting of the "Societe pour l"encouragement et l"instruction primairie le protestants de France." The Protestants are not satisfied with the system of mixed schools; they wish to have exclusively Protestant schools. The report was full, explicit, and decided. Several speeches from the princ.i.p.al Protestant ministers, dwelling upon religious instruction in primary schools. Attended the morning conference; nothing new in the proceedings; but there was a marriage; but neither groomsmen nor bridesmaids. Address of the pastor. The bride led by her father, the brother-in-law leading the bridegroom; salutations of friends; the presentation of the wedding-ring by the father of the bride; presentation of a Bible to the newly-married couple; touching offering to the poor.