CHAPTER XI.
EGYPT.
Resuming my narrative, my readers will be interested by a slight sketch of Egypt. This country, now called by the natives "Messir," was styled, in the Hebrew Scriptures, "The land of Mizraim"-a strange similarity in the two names, which places it beyond a doubt that, however much the face of the country may have been changed since the days of Moses and the children of Israel, and though consecutively under the sway of governments and people whose language and dialects varied in the extreme, the same original name has been faithfully preserved, though corrupted and abbreviated by various p.r.o.nunciations given to it by various people.
A land of troubles and misery it has been through many long centuries, from the fearful days when Aaron"s rod manifested the supreme power of the G.o.d of Abraham before the eyes of an unbelieving and stiff-necked people, down to within the last few years. The frightful devastations committed by the plague, and the extermination of the Mameluke power; these have been the last manifest outpourings of the wrath of G.o.d. Let us hope that the full cup of indignation has been poured out and emptied to the dregs; and that the prophetic words of Isaiah have been fulfilled as far as regards the curse, and that the predicted blessing is about to fall upon the land. "The Lord shall smite Egypt: he shall smite and heal it; and they shall return to the Lord, and he shall heal them," etc.
(Isaiah xix. 2225).
The striking allusion made to the fertility of the soil of Egypt in Gen.
xli. 47-"The earth brought forth by handfuls"-is still exemplified by the produce. Corn is so plentiful, that cargoes are annually shipped for the maintenance of other lands, and when the famine was sorely felt in the neighbouring countries, whole fleets of vessels, laden with corn from Alexandria, brought to England timely succour to starving mult.i.tudes, and enriched the coffers of not a few speculative merchants, who made the miseries of their fellow-beings a means of advancing their own welfare in the world.
There is little doubt but that Egypt has made great strides in civilisation under the sway of the present enlightened viceroy; for we have daily evidence of her continued improvement. Abbas Pasha is now only about forty-five years of age; he is the son of the eldest son of Mahomet Ali Pasha, and, therefore, according to the Egyptian rule, which gives precedence to the brother or his children, became ent.i.tled to the throne after the decease of Ibrahim, whose children, in some countries, would have been considered lawful successors. Abbas Pasha, unlike his predecessor, whose habits greatly contributed to curtail his life, is a man of very moderate and temperate style of living; he has but one wife, and, by this lady, an only son, now about twelve years of age. At the recommendation of the honorable Mr. Murray, the late British consul-general in Egypt, the viceroy sent to England to engage a tutor for the education of this son in English, and Mr. Artin, an English lawyer, was the lucky individual fixed upon.
No sooner had Mr. Artin arrived in Egypt, than Abbas Pasha promoted him to the dignity of Bey, and he now ranks amongst the n.o.bles of the land.
The Pasha having set the example himself, strongly recommended all his ministers to have their children educated in like manner; and I have little doubt but that this good advice will, in the course of time, be adopted. He also sends annually a number of young men to England to be educated, who naturally take back with them a strong predilection for the people with whom they have for some time resided. This will tend greatly to introduce a love of English civilisation and improvements in the country.
Amongst other improvements, Abbas Pasha has built himself a magnificent palace, Darr il Bedah, midway between Cairo and Suez. This good work excited the satire and spleen of the French people, who insisted that it was an act of insanity, throwing away money upon such a palace, situated in the desert; but, apart from its having given occupation and bread to thousands of starving inhabitants, the very fact of the Pasha making this place his favourite summer resort, has drawn the attention of the natives to the capabilities of the soil in the neighbourhood, and the place, from being a barren wilderness, is being rapidly brought into cultivation; villages are springing up; and, in addition to all this, the roads have been put into excellent order-not a trifling boon conferred upon the vast number of English travellers that are continually crossing this desert.
The steamers on the Nile, and the railway now in course of construction, are still greater proofs of the Pasha"s enlightened and civilised mind.
Abdallah Pasha, an Englishman who some time since embraced Mahomedanism, was appointed director of the transit, and the Pasha promoted him to that grade because he thought no one else competent to discharge the duties of the post. The truth of the matter is, that the English never commanded greater influence than they do at this present day in Egypt; they are looked up to and considered as everybody and everything; and for this they have much to thank the able and honourable Mr. Murray. To give an example of how far this influence with the Pasha extended, I may mention that, some time since, two hundred Copts were compelled to enlist as soldiers. Now these Copts are Christians, and their sufferings amongst the Moslem Fellahs can be more readily conceived than described; their friends and families succeeded in interesting Mr. Murray on their behalf, who interceded with the Pasha; and the result was, that they were immediately discharged from the army. But to shew how much and how sincerely Abbas Pasha appreciates the worth of such a man as the late British consul-general, the best proof I can give is, that when a sad calamity befell Mr. Murray, and his amiable lady died, the viceroy ordered all his ministers and head officials to go into mourning for her, and to follow her remains to the grave. Such a funeral was never witnessed in modern Egypt. All the n.o.bles of the land, and the first gentry, without distinction of creed, with black c.r.a.pe round their left arms and round their red caps, following in mournful procession this highly respected English lady to her grave. If a potentate had died, greater honours could not have been rendered; this act is without precedent in the East.
During my stay in Egypt, I resided with my kind friend Mr. Raphael Abet.
Mr. Abet is one of three brothers; they were from Syria, and eventually settled in Egypt. These three brothers were all eminent for their piety and their charity. One unfortunately died prematurely; but he has left behind him an undying name, having bequeathed an immense fortune for the support of charity schools and other similar philanthropic inst.i.tutions.
The brother, of whose kind hospitalities I so abundantly partook during my sojourn in Egypt (and whom I cannot refrain from thanking through the medium of these pages), is equally well known for his benevolence and good deeds. On the occasion of the revolution in Greece, in 1823, when the Turks took several females and children prisoners, and carried them away to be sold as captives in other countries, several of these unfortunates found a friend and deliverer in Mr. Abet. Not a few of the captives were carried into Egypt, and there sold. Many of these were, at a great outlay, purchased by him, who treated them in every respect as though they had been his own children; he fed, clothed, and educated them, and eventually they married and settled comfortably in life. One of the Messrs. Abet is now established in London as a mercantile man; and I am sure all who know him will bear me out in p.r.o.nouncing him to be a good man and a devout Christian.
Whilst on the subject of Egyptian friends and acquaintances, I must not neglect to mention the name of that good man Mr. Larking, who has left behind him in Egypt many a souvenir of which any Englishman might well be proud; his name is gratefully remembered by all cla.s.ses in Egypt, from the viceroy himself down to the meanest peasant. Mr. Larking, on first establishing himself in Egypt, so ingratiated himself with the Pasha, that in a very short time he was permitted to purchase whole villages, over which he ruled with as absolute sway as any Egyptian landowner. The country round these villages he soon brought into the richest state of cultivation: and so lenient a master, one under whom they reaped so many hitherto unheard-of benefits, made the peasants almost adore the name of Mr. Larking. Not only did he ameliorate the condition of his own land by the introduction of a superior method of cultivation, but he conferred a boon upon the whole of Egypt by procuring at some expense and trouble, the Sea-Island cotton seed, which has succeeded beyond the most sanguine expectations, and for the sample of it, which was shewn at the Great Exhibition, Mr. Larking obtained the prize. The viceroy was, of course, much gratified and pleased at this; and he has bestowed many costly gifts on Mr. Larking as expressive of his approbation; besides which, that gentleman has been appointed to act as the Viceroy"s confidential agent in England. This is only one of the many instances in which commoners have been raised to a high rank by Mehemet Ali Pasha, who being of obscure origin, took delight in raising to power those whose personal merits and talents brought them before his notice. Amongst the Viceroy"s favourites was one who particularly deserves our notice, viz., the late Boghas Bey. An Armenian by birth, and of no great opulence or particular parentage, Boghas Bey was possessed of all those good qualities which cannot fail to endear one even to the most savage breast: his charities were proverbial even to the detriment of his own personal interest. Step by step he rose in the Viceroy"s favour, till he had so far ingratiated himself with the Pasha, that Boghas was created a Bey, and had other high distinctions conferred upon him. He might have acc.u.mulated immense wealth, for the Viceroy"s heart and hand were ever open to confer great benefits upon him, but Boghas Bey preferred to serve his master gratuitously; and even the produce of the gifts of land forced upon his acceptance, went towards the maintenance of the poor, and many widows and orphans bless his name even to this day. But to shew how dangerous it is to be a favourite at Oriental courts, and how it subjects one to the vile jealousies of courtiers, even Boghas, favourite as he was, was well nigh falling a victim to the viceroy"s susceptibility and the villany of others. Some miscreants had misrepresented his character and actions to the Pasha, who, in a paroxysm of rage, ordered an officer in attendance to go instantly to the supposed delinquent"s house, and have him drowned in the Nile. As good fortune would have it, Boghas had on some previous occasion saved this very officer"s head, and the man gratefully remembering this, hid Boghas in his own house, intending to facilitate his escape to some other country. This was a bold stroke, and one worthy of great praise. Next morning the viceroy was sadly out of spirits; his wrath had not only calmed down, but circ.u.mstances had actually transpired which cleared his favourite of all suspicion. Great then was the viceroy"s consternation and grief on being informed that his orders had been executed to the letter: he tore his beard and gave way to exclamations of such sincere sorrow, that the officer took courage to prostrate himself at the viceroy"s feet, and explain how matters really stood. It is needless to say that he was readily pardoned, and Boghas received into higher favour than ever. At last, however, a sterner executioner than the one sent by the Pasha knocked at Boghas Bey"s door.
Death came armed, and the good man died, to the universal sorrow of the Pasha and all Cairo. Such had been his munificence during his lifetime, that at his death he was almost a bankrupt. The viceroy, determined to carry his esteem to the last, ordered him a public funeral, at which all the Egyptian officials and European consuls and merchants were invited to attend. So that Boghas was buried with honours such as are rarely paid to a prince in that country.
Of course during my stay in Egypt, I had often opportunities of visiting all the known antiquities, and amongst others the celebrated Pyramids, those n.o.ble testimonies of the bygone splendour of the land, and whose age and founders seem destined ever to remain a mystery. A friend of mine, a great antiquarian, and one deeply read in profane and sacred history, used to delight in holding forth to me his speculations as to their origin. His opinion was, that it must be erroneous to imagine that these pyramids were the handiwork of the Israelites. In support of this argument he quoted from many authorities, and amongst others from a well-known traveller who saw at one place the people making bricks with straw cut into small pieces, mingled with the clay to bind it. Hence it is, that when villages built of this brick fall into decay, the roads are full of small particles of straw, extremely offensive to the eyes in a high wind. These persons were engaged, exactly as the Israelites used to be, making bricks with straw, and for a similar purpose, viz to build extensive granaries for the Pasha-"_treasure cities for Pharaoh_." Hence my friend argued that the Israelites laboured in making bricks, not in hewing stones such as the pyramids are constructed with; but I do not pretend to enter into any argument upon so learned and obscure a subject: I certainly was surprised at the magnificence of their structure, and often wondered within myself where the stones came from, by what means they were transported, and by what now unknown force or lever such huge blocks were raised up one above another, and so left a firm memento through centuries, despite convulsions of the earth, to stand forth as objects of surprise and admiration to the visitors of the present generation.
With regard to the climate of Egypt, I believe it to be as good as many parts of Syria, though the heat is certainly more intense, and even I myself suffered from languor and oppression; but then the mornings and evenings fully recompense you for the sultrier heat of the day, and I never recollect to have enjoyed a summer"s moonlight night more than I did upon the Nile. The European residents in general enjoy excellent health; and few that have resided there long would wish to change their method of living, or the country they live in.
In Cairo, the Consular Square contains many very handsome buildings, inhabited princ.i.p.ally by the consuls of various nations, and some of the more wealthy European merchants. With my friend Mr. Walne, the British Consul at Cairo, I have spent many a pleasant hour, and for his great kindness and hospitality, I am glad to have an opportunity of thus publicly thanking him. Mr. W. is the head of the Egyptian Society, who have a very fine library, consisting chiefly of works relating to the antiquities and country of Egypt. The valuable books contained in this library are at all times, with perfect goodwill, placed at the disposal of strangers; and I gratefully acknowledge having derived useful information and amus.e.m.e.nt from the well-stocked shelves of this inst.i.tution.
A great source of comfort to English families residing in Egypt, is the punctual regularity with which the European mails arrive and depart; for, besides meeting almost weekly with swarms of their countrymen and fair countrywomen flocking to and from India, they have constantly fresh news from home, and can, upon any great emergency, transport themselves from the warm clime of Egypt to their own much-loved foggy island within the fortnight. Besides this, they are continually receiving newspapers from all parts of the world possessing the advantage over England of being cognisant of Indian and Australian news a fortnight before such intelligence could reach London; and this for merchants connected by trade with both places, must naturally be of paramount importance.
During winter, the Europeans at Cairo are much given to festivities; dinner-parties and b.a.l.l.s and soirees are then the order of the day, and great good feeling exists amongst the residents. Even private theatricals have been attempted; but it is during the Carnival that Cairo resounds with merriment, and masques and grotesque-looking figures, with torches and music, parade the streets from house to house till long after midnight, few enjoying the fun better than the native Cairines themselves. The gentlemen have shooting parties and coursing matches; the ladies ride out in the environs; they have healthy exercise, good houses, and the best of fare-all the productions of the East blended with the luxuries imported from European markets; and in this respect, as well as in conversing with and meeting more frequently ladies and gentlemen of their own nation, the English at Cairo possess advantages over the English in Syria. All the former have to complain of is the sultry heat of the weather, whilst the latter are isolated, and bemoan their solitude and the great lack of intelligent society.
On leaving Egypt, I came back to England _via_ Ma.r.s.eilles. I had barely arrived at this latter port before I again had the misfortune of coming into contact with the gendarmes. On a former occasion, as the reader may recollect, I got into a sc.r.a.pe by inadvertently emptying a basin of water out of the hotel window over the head and shoulders of a fiery French officer. This time I had brought with me a little parcel of tobacco, to distribute amongst a few of my friends. They wanted to make out a case of smuggling against me; but no sooner did I produce my pa.s.sport, to shew that I was attached to the Turkish emba.s.sy, than these officious officials changed their conduct, and quite overpowered me with their civilities. Truly Ma.r.s.eilles is an unlucky place for me. I here also had a sample of the bad management of travelling in France. I took a first-cla.s.s ticket direct from Ma.r.s.eilles to Paris by diligence. On my arrival at Lyons, I was told that I must remain until next morning, unless I consented to travel in an inferior part of the carriage. This, notwithstanding my urgent remonstrances, I was compelled to do, owing to the necessity of my being in Paris by a certain date; and, though exposed to many inconveniences, I was so fortunate as to arrive there in time.
My stay at Paris was limited to a few days, and I then came on to London and delivered my despatches to his excellency our respected amba.s.sador, who immediately recognised me as one of his suite, and who has ever since continued to treat me with the greatest urbanity. So soon as my official duties permitted, I went the round of my kind friends in London, and amongst others, was delighted to see the Honourable George Ma.s.sey, my old and well-tried friend, who insisted upon my taking up my abode at his house, where I remain surrounded by every comfort and luxury that kindness and forethought can provide, and happy in the enjoyment of the society of a genuine English family.
The handsome present of horses lately sent by Abbas Pasha to the Queen of England, clearly testifies the good feeling existing between the two governments, and how much the viceroy wishes to keep up those friendly feelings so successfully cultivated and maintained. One of the horses above alluded to is of the largest and most valuable and rare breed; and there is little doubt but that the English nation will hereafter be indebted to Abbas Pasha for the possession of a breed of horses now unknown in England. The horses were sent to this country under the charge of Nubar Bey, an Armenian, a native of Smyrna, a relative of Boghas Bey, who is much esteemed by the Pasha and the Egyptians. He received a first-rate education in Europe, and speaks several of its languages with fluency; he accompanied Ibrahim Pasha on his visit to this country a few years back as interpreter-secretary, and since that time has visited several European courts on various diplomatic missions, and now holds a high appointment under the Egyptian government.
The grooms who accompanied these horses were much astonished on seeing the Queen; they could not believe that so mild and gentle a lady could be possessed of such power and influence over the whole world; they were confident she must have a most clever magician in her employ, through whose arts she had attained so elevated a rank, and won such a share of their viceroy"s admiration. When they called to see me at Cambridge-square, amongst other articles of furniture, etc., which attracted their attention and admiration, was a little mantle-piece ornament, representing the three graces, of exquisite workmanship; they immediately set these down as household G.o.ds of the English, and it was with difficulty I could convince them to the contrary, and a.s.sure them that these, in common with many other nic-nacs, were simply used as ornaments to the room. These poor fellows were very grateful for the kindness shewn them by Mr. Ma.s.sey and his family, who procured for them tickets of admission to many of the most interesting sights in London; and after partaking of his hospitality, they returned in a few days to Egypt, begging me to a.s.sure my friend and his family that, if ever he chanced to travel in Egypt, they hoped to have it in their power to shew him the antiquities of that country; and, though they could not boast of so magnificent a seraijah, or such furniture, or such sumptuous fare, still a good pillaf, a chibuk of tobacco, and a finjan of coffee, should be always at his disposal. Mr. Ma.s.sey was much pleased at the simple good nature of these people. Before taking leave, I asked them their opinion of England and its people. They replied, both were wonderful; but they still preferred their own native country. That the English thought but of the present, and lived for this world alone; but that they looked forward to a hereafter, in which they hoped to be amply recompensed by all the sensual enjoyments a Mahomedan paradise promises for the numerous mortifications now endured in the flesh.
CHAPTER XII.
VISITS TO LADY ROLLE AND TO BATH AND CHELTENHAM.
Engaged in completing my ma.n.u.script preparatory to publication, I had devoted myself unweariedly to the task, and was about to correct the few last pages, when I was hindered by an invitation to pay a visit at Bicton in Devonshire, and there to recruit my health a little after my labour.
Having accepted it, I purpose, for the present, to give a short account of my visit there; also to Bath and Cheltenham, which afforded me great pleasure, and which I hope will interest my readers.
Lady Rolle had kindly invited me to visit her at Merton, which invitation I was very glad to accept; and I left London by an express train in full antic.i.p.ation of much enjoyment. I had often heard the gardens at Bicton described as amongst the finest in this county; no pen, however, can do justice to their attractions, and the loveliness of the surrounding scenery, which burst forth in all the majesty of a warm spring day, agreeably contrasting with the dark and murky atmosphere of London.
The rapidity of travelling by an express train really seems magical. If I were to write to my friends in the East and tell them I had travelled about two hundred miles within five hours, they would at once come to the conclusion that my head was turned like the unfortunate Druse Sheikh to whom I have alluded before. An Indian friend who was residing with me near a railway station, always compared the approach of the express train to that of Satan himself, rushing through the land direct from the infernal regions; a simile, according to my notions, not at all bad.
As soon as I had arrived at Exeter, I found a fly waiting for me, when I took my seat by the driver, preferring it to the closeness of an inside seat. I observed a great number of boys who indulged in various remarks concerning my beard, dress, etc., and frequently called after me "Kossoo!
Kossoo!" the meaning of which puzzled me not a little. I thought they meant the discoverer of the plant of that name so lately recommended for its medicinal properties, thinking they meant some allusion to my having studied medicine. In my perplexity I asked the driver for an explanation. "Why, maister, you sees they"ve never afore seed any foreign gentlemen like yourself, but that "ere one they calls Kossoo, so they "sposes you be he." The subsequent conversation between the driver and myself turned upon Kossuth"s merits. On my asking him if he had ever seen the Hungarian governor, "No, maister, I wishes I could send such publican foreigners into the sea instead of having them in our country."
I told him that this is not the way in which we treat foreigners in our country, he replied, "You be come from the Holy Land which be"ant our country."
After a beautiful drive we arrived at the park-gates, where I was welcomed by the presence of a herd of beautiful deer, who seemingly were as inquisitive as human beings, they would not, however, permit me to approach them, but bounded gracefully away, thinking no doubt that so strange a looking being as myself should be first acknowledged and welcomed by their fair owner ere they would deign to become familiar with me. On arriving within sight of the mansion, I was struck with its fine appearance and n.o.ble proportions, and scarcely believed that any private individual could be the possessor of such a magnificent residence, which resembled more a royal palace than a country-seat of an English n.o.bleman.
I charged the driver with bringing me to a wrong place, but he resolutely persisted in affirming that this was the seat of Lady Rolle. On my arrival, a great many houris simultaneously appeared at the window, with what seemed to me to be wands; but soon the truth flashed upon me, and I discovered that the houris which my imagination had conjured up, were no other than Lady Rolle and her fair guests, who were amusing themselves with a game of billiards. The n.o.ble mistress of the mansion immediately introduced me to a large a.s.semblage of wit, beauty, and fashion.
It would be difficult to describe the various charms of this truly magnificent seat, placed in the midst of scenery of the most enchanting loveliness. The n.o.ble park in which it stands studded with giant trees, that appear to be the children of centuries, spreads over a wide extent, and presents the most pleasing variety. The grounds which more immediately surround it are beautifully laid out, and in their taste and arrangement reflect the character of its n.o.ble mistress. The mansion itself is placed on the crest of a gentle hill; the splendour, the comfort, the hospitality, which are to be met with within its walls, formed altogether a scene well calculated to strike and astonish the Eastern pilgrim, who for the first time beheld it. Day by day, as the place grew more familiar, new treasures would rise upon my bewildered and wondering eyes. In the grounds there is a beautiful arboretum, which I believe contains every specimen of tree likely to reward the trouble of cultivation, and arranged with regard to its botanical cla.s.sification.
The various green-houses and hot-houses filled with the choicest flowers and fruits of tropical climates, delight the eye and inform the mind; and, thanks to the presiding care that overlooks and regulates the whole, all in the highest state of cultivation. Here, in the compa.s.s of a few miles, and belonging to one possessor, the plants and shrubs of the most distant countries (among others I noticed the coffee and banana) are brought together, and under the fostering care of art and intelligence, made to live and flourish in the greatest luxuriance. Among the numberless things which won my admiration, I will add the mention of a lofty tower which is built in one part of the grounds, and which is reached by a pretty drive through a wood of pine, and from whose top a view of the most magnificent kind presents itself, of hill and dale, wood and meadow; and a little distance, bounding the prospect at one point, the blue sea may be seen, adding another beauty to the landscape.
Never, in short, have I seen anything to rival this lovely human paradise, though I have had the pleasure of travelling through many English counties. I must leave my kind and indulgent reader to draw largely on his imaginative powers, and in thought translate himself to some fairy land, where nature"s beauties revel and disport in all their glory, and exhibit to the view of the entranced beholders all that is grand, beautiful, and enn.o.bling. At Bicton time sped rapidly on, as time always will speed when spent in such charming and agreeable society. Our usual daily routine was prayers at half-past eight A.M., at which all the guests and servants attended, when her ladyship read the prayers herself.
What an example thought I to thousands of the aristocracy of Europe!
After prayers we repaired to the breakfast parlour, where a sumptuous repast was always provided. After the meal, the company separated into different parties-some for a drive, some for a walk, whilst others went shooting or fishing. At one, all usually re-a.s.sembled and partook of an excellent lunch; afterwards, there were billiards, bagatelle, and books; in short, each did as he thought fit. We dined, and after that there was abundance of amus.e.m.e.nt; in the evening, the ladies delighted us by playing and singing.
Towards the close of my visit, I may inform the reader that my own stock of amus.e.m.e.nts were varied (I am happy to say that it was towards the end of my stay), by the discovery that two of her ladyship"s guests, Mr. P--- and Mr. W---, were skilful with their pencils, and insisted upon handing me down to posterity in their sketch-books, so that I was suddenly a.s.sailed right and left (I think it must have been a concerted plan between them for their mutual convenience), which kept me pretty quiet in attendance to be sure-to their ease and my dis-ease. Mr. W---, not content with conferring on me the above advantage, insists on the further distinction of hanging me up at the exhibition-a sentence which I really believe he will carry into execution.
The time thus pa.s.sed pleasantly away, and the recollection of these delightful hours will always be vividly engraven on my mind. Amongst the performers on the piano was one who, _par excellence_, was divine: this was a Miss W---. We often had a round game invented by Mr. P---.
Something similar to "My Lady"s Toilet," only more refined.
Lady Rolle kindly introduced me, during my residence at her abode, to a Mrs. P--- of Exeter, with whom I had a long conversation respecting the Greek church and the state of female education in Syria. I have heard that her daughters often visited the poor cottagers, with a view to improve and ameliorate their condition, a custom I am happy to find becoming very prevalent among the upper cla.s.ses in England during the last few years. I wish some philanthropic young ladies would follow their good example, and make a step still further by setting out on a crusade against the ignorance of their s.e.x in Syria.
On the grounds attached to the mansion, my hostess has built a very beautiful tower filled with valuable and rare samples of china; it resembles an Indian paG.o.da. This amiable lady has also built a very fine church in memory of her husband, and also a mausoleum. But what surprised me still more was to find a cottage on her grounds which was paved entirely with sheep"s knucklebones-a novel spectacle to me, and very ingenious and curious.
Whilst at Bicton, I heard a very amusing anecdote about an Eastern princess, who it appears had come there on a visit from London, and was much noticed by the n.o.bility. This lady was very fond of vegetables and fruit, and in order the more freely to gratify her appet.i.te, she used to rise early and go into the garden, and amongst other delicacies, she never spared the young onions, of which she was exceedingly fond. The gardener could not account for the depredations committed on his _potager_ till accident led him to discover the mystery. One day he locked the gate before the princess returned from her morning walk, and consequently she remained there some considerable time, and had to breakfast and dine off her favourite vegetables. At length, after a long search, the gardener heard her crying out, and accordingly released her.
One day during this agreeable visit was devoted to a drive to Exeter to see the cathedral, gaol, and hospital, with which I was much interested.
I must here bestow a pa.s.sing note of admiration on her ladyship"s "turnout," which conveyed us to the town: suffice it to say that it was appointed in the best English style, and with four fine horses of imposing stature, with their gay silver trappings and postillions, made an excellent _coup d"il_. With the architecture of the cathedral I was particularly struck, on account of its resemblance to the old churches in Syria. I much admired the small paintings in fresco underneath the organ, which I was told had only recently been discovered, and these were very similar to those in our churches throughout my country, and which may be seen at the present day. After having inspected the cathedral, I visited the gaol, which pleased me from being kept so scrupulously clean; and I highly approved of the regulations and rules which were laid down and enforced. But one circ.u.mstance in particular pained me very much, that was to find a child only eight years of age imprisoned for arson. I was told that he was much happier in gaol than at home. Before leaving I visited the female department, which was equally clean and well arranged, and all the women were usefully occupied. Upon enquiring of the governor of the gaol whether the female prisoners gave him much trouble, his answer was, "I would rather have to do with a dozen men than one woman."
This speech rather startled me, and, as it was time to return to Bicton, I left Exeter, having been highly gratified and pleased with my visit.
During my stay in the neighbourhood, as we proceeded though the village, many and very amusing conjectures were made concerning my country and station. By some I was considered no less a personage than a Persian prince; others deemed me a Turkish Pasha, whilst many even exalted me so high as to be somewhat of more importance-an Indian Rajah. Soon after, I bade adieu to Bicton, but not without deep regret and sorrow at leaving our amiable and hospitable friend and her a.s.sembled guests.
From Bicton I proceeded to Bath. It was about mid-day when I started; the weather was lovely, and forcibly brought to my mind the contrast between the murky and ungenial atmosphere which pervaded London when I left it, and the bright clear air of this favoured portion of England.
Could my readers, who spend so much of their time in the metropolis, have felt as I did on this morning, when the sweet breeze, wafting the odours of the fresh-turned earth, seemed to breathe health upon the cheek, and purity and peace into the heart, they could never again declare that the country possessed no charms. Contemplate but the rising of day"s bright luminary, which in the west of England is especially glorious, making its appearance as it does from behind lofty and undulating lines of hills, overlooking the loveliest of valleys, which must in spring present more the appearance of a Syrian glen than anything I have hitherto seen. The verdant moss, the delicate white violet, and the modest primrose, which hid their loveliness beneath a variety of trees, and amongst them the first that puts forth its blossoms is the sallow, whose yellow downy buds emit a honeyed odour, all combine to const.i.tute this beautiful part of England a very Garden of Eden in which an humble mind might dwell for ever.
The impression produced on my mind by these scenes, was very similar to that which so painfully affects the Swiss, when in a foreign country he is reminded of his wild and mountainous home. I felt all the sensations of the indescribable "mal de pays."
But I must proceed on my journey. I entered the railway carriage, and quick as lightning sped from all those who had shewn me so much kindness and attention, and to whom I shall often travel back in thought to dwell with grateful satisfaction and delight on this happy period of my life.
Should any of my readers, who have not yet visited Bath, have occasion hereafter to do so, they will not fail, as I was, to be struck with the picturesque appearance which meets the eye just before arriving at this beautiful city; the numerous pretty meadows-the spires of churches rising here and there to remind the beholder that he is in a Christian country-richly cultivated pleasure grounds surrounding neat villas-the village inn and its busy scene-carriages, omnibuses, and vehicles of every description, travelling in all directions, giving to this fair city of the west a miniature resemblance to the mighty metropolis in a far more agreeable sense.
But now the engine begins to slacken its pace; the shrill whistle sounds, and the heavy train, though seeming to grow tired yet reluctant to rest, arrives at the terminus. All now is hurry and bustle; friends, parents, a.s.sistants, are on the platform, eager to welcome or render their aid, as the case may be, yet provokingly kept back by the railings, which are pertinaciously kept for a while closed. At last all are free; and Bath, that elegant city, with its beautiful surrounding hills, and dazzling white houses, and decorated architectural public buildings, now bursts upon the view; the smoke curling upwards towards the clear atmosphere, dispersing ere it reaches the azure sky. The mildness of the climate surprised me, and particularly the warm mineral springs. There is an idea prevalent in Syria, that England being an island, there are no springs, that all the streams are brackish, and that the inhabitants are supplied with drinking-water from the clouds. On my first arrival in this country, seeing wine so plentiful and water so scarce at meals, I was inclined to believe that the supposition was a true one.