Times Gone By Some historians suggest that the rise of grande cuisine in England was due not to rising tastes among aristocrats such as the Earl of Grantham, but rather as a result of increased compet.i.tion between restaurateurs. One way to attract more customers was by offering finer, perhaps more foreign food than that offered by compet.i.tors.
Daisy"s Mustard Salmon with Lentils
If Daisy wanted to impress Mrs. Patmore with her cooking prowess, she would simply need to make this small but mighty salmon dish. Like Daisy herself, this salmon dish, with the help of the mustard, packs a surprising punch.
YIELDS 4 SERVINGS.
For Mustard Sauce 14 cup unsalted b.u.t.ter, softened 2 tablespoons chopped chives 1 tablespoon chopped tarragon 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard 2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice 1 teaspoon sugar 2 teaspoons kosher salt 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper For Lentils 1 cup French green lentils 2 large carrots, chopped 2 cups water 2 cups vegetable broth 2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice For Salmon 4 (6-ounce) skinless salmon fillets 1 teaspoon salt 12 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 4 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter To make mustard sauce: In a small bowl, thoroughly mix together b.u.t.ter, chives, tarragon, Dijon mustard, lemon juice, sugar, salt, and pepper. Set aside.
To make lentils: In a heavy saucepan over high heat, bring lentils, carrots, water, and vegetable broth to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer, uncovered, until lentils are tender, about 2530 minutes. Remove pan from heat and let stand for 57 minutes. Drain lentils, reserving 1 cup of the liquid.
Reheat drained lentils, carrots, and reserved liquid over medium heat, mixing in 4 tablespoons of b.u.t.ter mixture. Stir until lentils are heated and b.u.t.ter is thoroughly mixed in. Add lemon juice, and salt and pepper to taste. Keep warm, covered.
To prepare salmon: Sprinkle salmon fillets with salt and pepper.
Heat b.u.t.ter in a large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Once b.u.t.ter has foamed, saute salmon, flipping once, until salmon is cooked through and golden, about 810 minutes.
Serve salmon topped with remaining b.u.t.ter mixture, over lentils and carrots.
Etiquette Lessons There were usually two types of fish offered at a formal dinner party: one broiled, one lightly fried. This low-stress recipe would be a tempting choice for Mrs. Patmore to offer as her broiled option.
Baked Cod with Parmesan Bread Crumbs
While cod is the most popular choice for fish-and-chip dishes such as Spicy Pub Fish and Chips (see Chapter 10), it can also be used in a quite delicate, understated yet elegant fish dish. One can just imagine the Dowager Countess frowning at the unfamiliar texture of this dish, as she would be much more familiar with fish covered in sauce rather than bread crumbs!
YIELDS 4 SERVINGS.
14 cup Italian bread crumbs 4 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese 1 tablespoon cornmeal 2 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil 1 teaspoon Italian seasoning 14 teaspoon garlic powder 1 teaspoon kosher salt 12 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 4 (3- to 4-ounce) cod fillets 2 tablespoons mayonnaise 1 teaspoon lemon juice Preheat oven to 425F.
In a small bowl, mix together bread crumbs, Parmesan cheese, cornmeal, olive oil, Italian seasoning, garlic powder, salt, and pepper.
Grease the rack of a broiling pan. Place cod on the rack, folding under any thin edges. In a small bowl, whisk together the mayonnaise and lemon juice, then brush fillets with mayonnaise and lemon-juice mixture. Then spoon the crumb mixture evenly over top of fillets.
Bake fillets in preheated oven for 1315 minutes or until the fish flakes easily when prodded with a fork. Fish should be opaque all the way through.
Times Gone By As Britain was a rather small island surrounded by a ready supply of fresh seafood, a great deal of fish was consumed during the Victorian era. In fact, oysters were once so readily available that they were used as a sausage filling in lieu of more expensive meat, and salmon was among the few fish the poor could afford. Nowadays, however, thanks to the rise in frozen fish, it has become a lot harder to find some of the lesser-known varieties of English fish... but if you are lucky, you might be able to hunt some down!
Chapter 3.
THIRD COURSE: ELEGANT ENTReES.
Entrees, in the Service a la Russe sense, meant anything that did not require carving with a knife. While the following dishes may seem like meals on their own, remember that, for the Downton Abbey set, this was just the third course out of an eight-course (or more) meal. However, entrees increased in importance over time, and in 1907 writer Hermann Senn wrote: "Entrees are generally looked upon as the most essential part of the dinner... there can be no well-balanced dinner without an entree course." It"s likely that the Earl of Grantham would heartily agree with the importance of an entree; however, whether that agreement is due to etiquette or hunger remains an unanswered question. The following entrees are incredibly rich, just like the company who consumes them.
Lobster Thermidor
Due to the incredibly expensive cost (not to mention intensive - and extensive - preparation) of lobster, this dish would only be served at Downton Abbey for the most regal of affairs when the family most wanted to impress, such as when the Earl of Grantham auditions future possible fiances for Lady Mary.
YIELDS 4 SERVINGS.
4 lemons, halved 2 onions, quartered 2 (112-pound) lobsters 1 cup unsalted b.u.t.ter 12 cup all-purpose flour 14 cup shallots, minced 12 cup dry white wine 2 cups whole milk 2 cups heavy cream 2 tablespoons Dijon mustard 2 tablespoons fresh tarragon, chopped 1 cup and 2 tablespoons grated Parmesan Reggiano cheese 1 pound bacon 2 cups onions, julienned 12 cup green beans, blanched Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste 2 teaspoons garlic, chopped Preheat oven to 375F.
Bring a large stockpot of salted water containing the lemon halves and quartered onions to a boil. Add lobsters to boiling water and cook for 15 minutes.
Remove lobsters from water and place in an ice bath.
Melt b.u.t.ter in a large saucepan over medium-high heat, then form a roux by stirring in the flour. Add shallots and cook for 1 minute, then stir in the wine, milk, and heavy cream. Bring mixture to a boil, then lower to a simmer. Cook for 5 minutes or until the sauce is thick enough to thoroughly coat the back of a spoon. Season the sauce with salt and pepper. Do not be alarmed if this sauce is incredibly thick.
Remove sauce from heat and stir in the Dijon mustard and tarragon.
Free lobsters from ice bath and split each lobster in half. Remove the tail meat from the sh.e.l.ls and gently crack the claws. Dice the tail meat, then fold into the sauce. Stir the 1 cup of grated cheese into the mixture.
Spoon mixture into lobster tails. Sprinkle remaining 2 tablespoons of the cheese over the lobsters. Place the now-filled lobsters on a large baking sheet in preheated oven. Bake lobsters for 1015 minutes or until their tops are golden brown.
Meanwhile, in a well-oiled pan, heat bacon until crispy, about 10 minutes. Add onions and saute for another 5 minutes. Add the green beans and saute for an additional 5 minutes. Season with salt and pepper, then mix in garlic.
Remove bacon, onions, and green beans from heat. Place mixture on serving plates, then top with lobsters.
Suggested Pairings It was quite common for Lobster Thermidor to be served on a silver platter surrounded by Decadent d.u.c.h.ess Potatoes (see Chapter 6).
Lobster with Mornay Sauce
Lobster with Mornay Sauce is a rich dish for the most discerning of dinner guests. No matter what the Dowager Countess"s mood may be, this dish would be sure to put a smile on her often-puckered face. The extravagance of this dish would render it appropriate for a celebration in honor of the Dowager Countess, perhaps after she wins the flower show, or maybe as a means of cheering her up after she lets Mr. Molesley"s flowers take the prize.
YIELDS 4 SERVINGS.
12 cup unsalted b.u.t.ter 1 pound lobster meat, diced 14 cup all-purpose flour 1 cup low-sodium chicken broth 112 cups heavy cream 1 teaspoon kosher salt 12 teaspoon white ground pepper 2 teaspoons sugar 12 cup freshly grated Gruyere cheese 12 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese Melt the b.u.t.ter in a medium-large saucepan over medium heat. Mix in lobster meat, cooking until opaque. Remove lobster from saucepan and set aside.
Reduce heat to low. Sprinkle flour in pan. Cook and stir for 35 minutes, making sure not to boil. Slowly stir in chicken broth, heavy cream, salt, pepper, and sugar. Simmer 710 minutes or until sauce thickens.
Stir in lobster and Gruyere and Parmesan cheeses. Continue cooking for an additional 57 minutes.
Times Gone By Mornay sauce (simply a Bechamel sauce with cheese), while usually consisting of 1 part Gruyere and 1 part Parmesan cheeses, can also contain white Cheddar or even Emmental cheese. It would frequently be served on top of vegetables, though it can be served with lobster (such as in this dish), crab, or even shrimp. Or try this on asparagus!
Accolade-Winning Duck Confit
This is a time-consuming dish for which Mrs. Patmore would need at least two days warning to properly prepare for. That said, this dish would win her and her bosses many accolades from visiting guests, such as Sir Anthony Strallen - if he could turn away from Lady Edith long enough to eat! Sadly, in the end Lady Edith does not receive nearly as many accolades as this dish.
YIELDS 46 SERVINGS 3 tablespoons kosher salt 6 cloves garlic, minced 6 sprigs thyme 6 bay leaves Coa.r.s.ely ground black pepper 4 duck legs with thighs 4 duck wings, trimmed 412 cups duck fat Sprinkle 1 tablespoon salt on the bottom of a dish or gla.s.s container large enough to hold all pieces of duck in a single layer. Sprinkle half the garlic, thyme, and bay leaves over the salt. Place the duck, skin-side up, over the garlic and salt, then sprinkle with the remaining salt, garlic, thyme, bay leaves, and pepper. Cover and refrigerate for up to 2 days, but no more.
Preheat oven to 220F.
Melt the duck fat in a small saucepan over medium-high heat. Brush salt and seasonings off the duck, then arrange the duck pieces in a single layer on a high-sided ovenproof dutch oven. Pour the duck fat over the duck pieces, fully immersing them in the liquid. Place duck in oven. Cook at a very low simmer with an bubble until duck can be pulled easily from the bone, approximately 2123 hours. Remove confit from oven, then cool. Store duck in fat.
Suggested Pairings A frequent pairing with this Duck Confit would be Pommes de Terre Sarladaise (see Chapter 6), translated as Potatoes Cooked in Duck Fat, and the Red WineBraised Red Cabbage with Apples (also in Chapter 6).
Seafood Crepes with Mornay Sauce
A savory take on the cla.s.sic crepe, this is a decadent, albeit unusual, entree to offer at dinner. This is the type of dish that would attract Lady Sybil due to its shock factor, as it would not be expected at a typical Downton Abbey dinner. Perhaps Mrs. Patmore would make this as a special treat before Sybil leaves for Ireland with her new husband.
YIELDS 46 SERVINGS For Crepes 1 cup whole milk 12 cup water 2 large eggs 14 cup unsalted b.u.t.ter, melted 1 cup all-purpose flour 1 teaspoon sugar 12 teaspoon kosher salt For Sauce 12 cup unsalted b.u.t.ter 4 tablespoons all-purpose flour 2 cups whole milk 14 cup grated fresh Gruyere cheese 14 cup dry white wine 12 cup heavy cream 1 large egg yolk, mixed into cream Kosher salt and freshly ground white pepper to taste For Seafood Mixture 14 cup unsalted b.u.t.ter 1 medium yellow onion, chopped 12 pounds baby bella mushrooms 1 cup cooked shrimp 1 cup cooked scallops 12 cup grated fresh Parmesan cheese 14 cup grated fresh Gruyere cheese 2 tablespoons minced fresh parsley 1 teaspoon kosher salt 12 teaspoon ground white pepper First, make the crepes: In a large bowl, blend together milk and water. Whisk in eggs, followed by 18 cup of the melted b.u.t.ter, and the flour, sugar, and salt. Blend until smooth, then cover and let chill for 30 minutes.
Heat rest of b.u.t.ter in a medium-sized cooking pan. Add 2 tablespoons of batter mixture, and cook until lightly brown on bottom (about 1122 minutes). Flip crepe and repeat with other side. Repeat with remaining batter. Place crepes between pieces of parchment paper to stop them from sticking together, then set aside.
Next, make sauce: In a medium to large saucepan, melt b.u.t.ter over medium-low heat. Once melted, whisk in flour. Slowly add milk, stirring constantly until sauce thickens. Whisk in Gruyere cheese, followed by the white wine and yolk-cream mixture, and mix well. Season with salt and pepper, then remove from heat.
Next, prepare the seafood mixture: Preheat oven to 350F and thoroughly grease a large, shallow baking dish.
In a large skillet over medium-high heat, melt b.u.t.ter and saute chopped onion and mushrooms until onion is translucent and mushrooms are tender. Stir in shrimp and scallops, followed by 34 cup of the Mornay sauce (b.u.t.ter, onion, and cheese sauce), 12 cup of the Parmesan cheese, the 14 cup of Gruyere cheese, and the fresh parsley, salt, and white pepper. Stir until all ingredients are heated through.
Spoon 24 tablespoons of crepe mixture into the middle of each crepe and roll up. Place crepe seam-side down in greased baking dish. Repeat with remaining crepes. Cover crepes with remaining sauce and cheese. Bake for 1520 minutes or until sauce bubbles.
Suggested Pairings While crepes are traditionally served with cider in Brittany, France, the birthplace of crepes, that would not pair well with this savory (not to mention incredibly thick) entree. Instead, try this with a crisp white wine or perhaps a gin and tonic - though that would never be allowed at Downton Abbey!
Sybil"s Seafood Newburg
Perhaps the zestiest of Downton Abbey"s offerings, this modern and spicy entree would be different from what most Edwardians would expect - just like Lady Sybil"s own personality! After all, it"s not many Edwardian aristocrats who would fall in love with - much less agree to marry - their chauffeur!
YIELDS 46 SERVINGS 4 tablespoons all-purpose flour 1 tablespoon paprika 1 teaspoon curry powder 14 teaspoon nutmeg 18 teaspoon cayenne pepper 1 teaspoon kosher salt 14 cup unsalted b.u.t.ter 1 shallot, minced 1 garlic clove, minced 2 cups whole milk 2 tablespoons tomato paste 12 cup dry sherry 4 cups water 212 teaspoons kosher salt 2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper 2 bay leaves 1 pound fresh scallops 12 pound lobster tail meat 1 pound large shrimp, peeled and deveined First, make the Newburg sauce: In a medium-sized bowl, combine flour, paprika, curry powder, nutmeg, cayenne pepper, and salt. Set aside.
In a large saucepan, melt b.u.t.ter over medium-low heat. Add minced shallot and garlic, and saute until shallots begin to brown, about 23 minutes.
While shallots cook, mix together milk and tomato paste in a small saucepan over medium heat.
Stir flour mixture into the shallot-garlic mixture. Stir until all ingredients are well mixed in b.u.t.ter. Whisk in sherry until smooth. Stir in the milk and tomato mixture, whisking constantly, until the sauce is smooth yet thick. Remove from heat and cool. Do not refrigerate.
Next, prepare the seafood: Heat water, salt, pepper, and bay leaves in a large saucepan, bringing mixture to a boil. Add scallops and boil for 5 minutes. Remove scallops and set aside. Repeat with lobster meat and shrimp.
Add cooked sh.e.l.lfish to Newburg sauce and bring to a simmer over low heat. Serve hot, perhaps over pasta or rice.
Times Gone By Newburg sauce, while created at the American restaurant Delmonico"s, is just fancy enough for Mrs. Patmore to use at her dinner table - but perhaps not when prestigious company is invited. Rumor has it that this sauce was originally known as Wenburg sauce, but Mr. Wenburg, after a fight with the proprietor of the restaurant, demanded that the sauce be renamed. The first three letters were flipped, and Newburg sauce was born.