This cla.s.sic French dish would be served with much aplomb to Downton Abbey regulars and guests alike. Its simplistic nature is certain to appeal to the Earl of Grantham, who seems like a more "meat and potatoes" kind of eater than say, his nitpicky mother. Mrs. Patmore might offer this dish accompanied by the delicious Daisy"s Noisette Potoatoes (see Chapter 6). With or without them, however, the thick cha.s.seur sauce on these steaks guarantees a hit.
YIELDS 4 SERVINGS.
For Steak 4 (6- to 8-ounce) filet mignon steaks 1 teaspoon kosher salt 12 teaspoon cayenne pepper 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil For Cha.s.seur Sauce 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 1 tablespoon minced shallot 3 teaspoons minced garlic 1 pound b.u.t.ton mushrooms, thinly sliced 2 tomatoes, diced 14 cup dry white wine 1 cup veal stock 14 cup unsalted b.u.t.ter 12 teaspoon freshly ground white pepper 1 teaspoon thyme, chopped 1 teaspoon parsley, chopped Season the filets equally with salt and cayenne pepper.
In a large saucepan, heat olive oil over medium-high heat. Sear steaks for about 79 minutes per side.
You can prepare the sauce while the steaks cook: Heat olive oil in another large saucepan. Add shallot and garlic, and saute over medium heat for 23 minutes. Then add the b.u.t.ton mushrooms and saute, constantly stirring, for an additional 35 minutes. Toss in the diced tomatoes. Finally, add the wine and veal stock, and bring entire mixture to a boil. Then lower heat and let simmer for 5 minutes. Stir in b.u.t.ter and white pepper until thoroughly incorporated, then add thyme and parsley. Spoon sauce over steaks on their respective plates.
Times Gone By Cha.s.seur sauce, often known as "hunter"s sauce," is used in French cuisine. As the name suggests, this brown sauce is often paired with game meats such as venison or rabbit. While the sauce was invented by Duke Philippe de Mornay (also the inventor of Mornay sauce, bechamel sauce, and sauce Lyonnaise), it was famed chef Escoffier, the "father of modern French cuisine," who really helped to make it popular in England.
Cla.s.sic Beef Wellington
Depending on who you want to impress, you could call this dish by its French name, Filet de Boeuf en Croute, or by its British name, Beef Wellington. Some claim that a rather patriotic British chef named this dish Beef Wellington out of British pride; others claim it is named after a seventeenth-century duke. Either way, this favorite - consisting of a solid filet of beef covered by pate and surrounded by a pastry crust - would be a staple for many a dinner at Downton Abbey.
YIELDS 6 SERVINGS.
212 pounds beef tenderloin 4 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter, softened 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 1 large onion, chopped 1 pound white b.u.t.ton mushrooms 2 cloves garlic, chopped 2 ounces liver pate Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste 1 (17.5-ounce) frozen puff pastry, thawed 2 egg yolks, beaten 112 cups beef broth 14 cup red wine Preheat oven to 425F.
Place beef tenderloin in a medium-sized baking dish and cover with 2 tablespoons of the softened unsalted b.u.t.ter. Bake for 1520 minutes or until thoroughly browned. Remove beef from pan and allow to cool completely. Reserve juices.
Heat the extra-virgin olive oil in a medium-sized skillet over medium-high heat. Saute onion, mushrooms, and garlic in olive oil for 5 minutes, then remove from heat and set aside.
In a small bowl, mix together pate and remaining 2 tablespoons of the softened b.u.t.ter, then season with salt and pepper. Spread pate mixture evenly over cooled beef, then top with onion and mushroom mixture.
Using a rolling pin, roll out pastry dough on a lightly floured surface. Place beef in center of dough, then fold dough up and seal all the edges, making sure the seams are not too thick and unseemly.
Place beef pastry in a 913-inch baking dish. Cut a few slits at top of beef pastry; then wash pastry with egg yolks.
Cook beef pastry in oven for 3035 minutes or until pastry is a rich, golden brown. Set aside, keeping warm.
In a small saucepan over high heat, mix together all reserved juices, plus the beef broth and red wine for 1015 minutes or until slightly reduced. Strain, then serve with beef.
Etiquette Lessons Although nowadays no one would look twice if you cut your meat into bite-sized pieces before eating, back in the nineteenth century and early twentieth century it was considered rude to do so. Rather, you were supposed to cut yourself one bite-sized piece of your meal, put down your knife, take a bite, then repeat. No wonder dinners took so long to finish!
Succulent Pork Shoulder
Made from few ingredients, the small amount of spice in this recipe brings out a surprising amount of flavor in this succulent pork shoulder. After a full day of hunting at Downton Abbey, the guests and their hosts would happily chow down on this juicy dish.
YIELDS 46 SERVINGS 4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 3 tablespoons chopped garlic Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste 1 (4-pound) pork shoulder Preheat oven to 400F.
In a small bowl, mix together olive oil, garlic, salt, and pepper. Using a pastry brush, slather mixture all over the pork shoulder.
Set the meat on a rack in a roasting pan. Roast for 2530 minutes, and then reduce heat to 350F. Continue to cook until meat thermometer inserted into middle of shoulder reaches 185F, about 4412 hours. Remove pork from oven and cool until easy enough to handle, about 3045 minutes.
Times Gone By With Service a la Russe, each dish was presented one at a time. However, an impressive dish such as this would be shown to the guests for the appropriate kudos, then taken to the sideboard or back to the kitchen for carving.
Mrs. Patmore"s Perfect Pork Roast
Considering the healthy appet.i.tes attached to the unhealthy soldiers entering Downton Abbey, Mrs. Patmore couldn"t go wrong serving this large, delicious roast! This large, filling dish requires spa.r.s.e ingredients and, more importantly, little time to concoct, thus making it perfect for when Mrs. Patmore was trying to find the time to feed the wounded, the family, and her staff.
YIELDS 810 SERVINGS 2 cloves garlic, minced 2 teaspoons marjoram 1 teaspoon kosher salt 1 teaspoon rubbed sage 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 1 (4-pound) boneless pork loin Preheat oven to 350F.
In a small bowl, combine minced garlic, marjoram, salt, sage, and olive oil.
Rub spice mixture all over roast, then place roast in a shallow roasting pan.
Bake roast uncovered in preheated oven for 1 hour or until the meat thermometer reads 150F. Let stand for 10 minutes before slicing.
Etiquette Lessons While modern parties might suggest serving this pork roast with pineapple and oranges (a la Hawaiian luau), such would not be the case during Victorian and Edwardian times. In fact, one Victorian etiquette guide advised, "Never embark on an orange," as it was considered rude to use your fingers to peel fruit and there wasn"t another way to get to an orange"s juicy interior.
Chapter 5.
SIXTH COURSE: RESPLENDENT ROASTS, GORGEOUS GAME, AND ACCOMPANYING SALADS.
In case the preceding barrage of meat courses isn"t enough to fill your appet.i.te, the following roasts - an appetizing mixture of veal, goose, and other game meats - would be ready and waiting for you. All roasts and game would be served with a suggested side salad or vegetable (see Chapter 6) and an elegant gla.s.s of champagne, which was the drink of choice by the end of the nineteenth century. It"s important to note that while there was a great deal of meat served at Downton Abbey, the guests were not required to eat large portions, thus giving their stomachs room to at least have a taste of each offered course.
Regal Veal Prince Orloff
During this time period when French cuisine was quite de rigueur, this popular Franco-Russian dish was quite fashionable to serve at a dinner party. This dish is created by slicing veal and layering it with onion and mushroom stuffings, then covering with more stuffing and Mornay sauce. Perhaps in an attempt to woo Matthew Crawley, the Countess of Grantham would request that this indulgent dish be made to ill.u.s.trate her family"s wealth and generosity. But outsiders beware: The Countess of Grantham - and all the daughters of Downton - are just as layered as this meal.
YIELDS 68 SERVINGS For Veal Roast 12 cup all-purpose flour 1 teaspoon garlic powder 1 (4-pound) tied boneless loin of veal, tenderized 12 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1 teaspoon kosher salt 2 tablespoons vegetable oil 12 cup white onion, chopped 1 garlic clove, minced 2 celery hearts, finely chopped 1 large carrot, finely chopped 4 sprigs fresh parsley 5 sprigs fresh thyme 1 bay leaf 1 cup dry white wine For Onion Stuffing 13 cup long-grain basmati rice 2 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter 3 cups white or yellow onions, halved vertically and sliced thin 1 teaspoon kosher salt 12 teaspoon sugar 13 cup chicken broth For Mushroom Stuffing 1 pound mushrooms, finely chopped or minced 4 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter 14 cup heavy cream 12 teaspoon kosher salt 14 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 12 teaspoon sugar For Mornay Sauce 112 cups whole milk 4 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter 6 tablespoons all-purpose flour 13 cup grated Gruyere cheese 1 teaspoon kosher salt 14 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 14 teaspoon nutmeg, freshly ground Preheat oven to 350F.
First, prepare the veal: In a small or medium-sized bowl, mix together the flour and garlic powder. Dredge veal in flour mixture, then season with black pepper and salt.
Heat oil in a 5- to 6-quart dutch oven (or other ovensafe pot) over medium heat. Add onion and garlic clove, and saute until brown. Place veal in dish and brown, turning on all sides, about 10 minutes.
Remove veal from dutch oven. Add celery and carrots, stirring frequently to prevent brown bits. Cook until vegetables soften, about 5 minutes.
Wrap parsley, fresh thyme, and bay leaf in a cheesecloth square, and tie into a bundle with a string to make a bouquet garni. Add to vegetables, then add wine. Finally, place veal on top and bring to a simmer.
Cover dutch oven or pot with lid, then transfer to lower third of oven and braise until veal registers 145F, about 1112 hours.
Transfer veal to a wooden cutting board. Let stand for at least 30 minutes. Pour cooking juices through a fine-mesh sieve into a medium-sized gla.s.s bowl. Discard solids. Skim off fat and reserve for Mornay sauce. Be sure to add any juices that leak from veal to plate.
While veal braises, make the onion stuffing: Cook basmati rice in a large saucepan of boiling salted water for 5 minutes, then drain and rinse and drain again.
In a large ovenproof skillet, heat b.u.t.ter over low heat until foam subsides. Stir in onions, salt, and sugar. Cover with a lid or foil and cook over low heat, stirring occasionally for about 7 minutes. Mix in rice and broth, then bring to a simmer.
Cover skillet tightly, then transfer to the upper third of the oven and bake until onions and rice are very soft, about 45 minutes1 hour.
Leaving oven on, transfer onion stuffing to a food processor and coa.r.s.ely puree. Transfer to a medium-sized bowl to cool.
While the veal and onion stuffing cook, make the mushroom stuffing: Place a handful of mushrooms in a kitchen towel that is not terrycloth. Gather towel around mushrooms and wring out in kitchen sink, removing as much liquid as possible. Wring out remaining mushrooms a handful at a time following the same process.
In a large skillet, heat b.u.t.ter over medium-high heat until foam subsides. Then add mushrooms and saute until lightly brown and any liquid from the mushrooms has evaporated. This should take 68 minutes. Mix in cream, salt, pepper, and sugar. Cook, constantly stirring, until cream is absorbed by mushrooms. Transfer to a bowl and let cool.
As veal stands, make the Mornay sauce: Add enough milk to reserved veal juices in gla.s.s bowl to total 3 cups.
Using a medium-sized saucepan, melt b.u.t.ter over low heat. Add flour and continue to cook over low heat, whisking constantly for 3 minutes. Add milk mixture in a steady stream, whisking vigorously, and bring mixture to a boil. Reduce heat to a gentle simmer, whisking less frequently, for 10 minutes. Remove saucepan from heat and add Gruyere, stirring until melted, then whisk in salt, pepper, and nutmeg.
Now prepare the Veal Prince Orloff: Move the top rack of the oven to the middle of oven and raise heat to 375F.
Mix a 12 cup of the onion stuffing into all of the mushroom stuffing. Place remaining onion stuffing in a Ziploc bag. Then transfer the onion and mushroom stuffing mixture into a different Ziploc bag. Make sure to squeeze out excess air from both bags. Then snip off 34- to 1-inch from the corner of each bag.
Remove string from veal loin, and trim off and discard the ends of veal and any excess fat. Cut roast crosswise into 1620 slices, about 14-inch thick, taking care to keep slices together.
Transfer 1 slice of veal to the end of an ovenproof platter. Squeeze from Ziploc bag about 2 tablespoons of the onion and mushroom stuffing onto half of the slice, starting at the bottom of the slice and working toward the top of the slice. Then pipe 2 tablespoons of the mushroom stuffing onto the other half of the slice in the same manner. Overlap with another slice of meat, leaving a half-inch of stuffing exposed. Repeat with remaining veal slices and remaining stuffings, keeping slices aligned.
Reheat Mornay sauce over low heat until hot, stirring occasionally. If desired, thin with a little milk. Transfer to a gravy boat and serve on the side.
Etiquette Lessons At a formal dinner party, or at any dinner party, you may not eat until your host picks up his fork to eat. Do not start before then unless your host insists that you begin eating; only then is it polite to eat. Similarly, your host will signal the end of the meal by placing his napkin on the table. Once the dinner is over, you should follow suit and place your napkin cleanly on the table to the left of your dinner plate. However, you should not refold your napkin, nor should you crumple it up.
Roasted Veal Chops with Rosemary-Basil b.u.t.ter
A delicious and majestic dish, these veal chops make a perfect base for Mrs. Patmore"s light Rosemary-Basil b.u.t.ter. As Thomas and William serve these juicy treats, it would likely be hard for them to keep their mouths from salivating - especially when they compare this dish to their heartier - yet much less delicate - food downstairs.
YIELDS 4 SERVINGS.
12 cup unsalted b.u.t.ter, room temperature 3 teaspoons fresh rosemary, chopped and divided 1 teaspoon basil, chopped 2 teaspoons fresh thyme, chopped 112 teaspoons kosher salt 4 (10- to 12-ounce) veal chops, each about 1112 inches thick 14 cup extra-virgin olive oil 12 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1 tablespoon sugar 2 rosemary sprigs 2 garlic cloves, minced 4 tablespoons dry white wine 4 tablespoons low-sodium chicken broth In a small bowl, blend together b.u.t.ter, 2 teaspoons of the rosemary, 1 teaspoon basil, 1 teaspoon of the thyme, and 12 teaspoon of the salt. Wrap b.u.t.ter in plastic wrap, forming a 112-inch log. Chill for at least 2 hours, preferably 34.
Arrange veal chops in a single layer on a large baking dish. Drizzle with 2 tablespoons of the olive oil, then cover with remaining rosemary and thyme. Sprinkle with remaining 1 teaspoon salt, the black pepper, and sugar. Thoroughly rub oil and spices into chops.
In a large skillet, heat remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil over medium-high heat. Add rosemary sprigs and garlic, sauteing until fragrant but not brown. Increase heat to high, then add veal, cooking chops until they are brown and a meat thermometer inserted into the center reads 130F. Add wine and cook until reduced by about half, about 30 seconds, then add chicken broth until reduced again by half. Drizzle sauce over chops.
Serve chops with rosemary b.u.t.ter sauce atop each one.
Times Gone By We know from Victorian paintings that children often stood to eat their food while at the same table with adults. This was not only due to basic necessity - not all families possessed enough chairs - but as a way to denote a lower status. It was also believed that eating while standing or sitting upright promoted digestion. Luckily, rules like this had relaxed by the Edwardian era.
Traditional Apple Cider Veal
A tender dish enjoyed by many of the English elite, this veal would be served with much aplomb by great houses such as Downton Abbey. For an extra kick, perhaps the daughters of Downton Abbey would pick the apples for the cider themselves, though this seems to be more like something Daisy would enjoy.
YIELDS 46 SERVINGS 2 tablespoons Crisco or fat 1 pound veal, cut into 4 equal pieces 4 tablespoons brandy 4 shallots, finely chopped 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour 112 cups apple cider 1 clove 1 bay leaf 2 sprigs thyme 3 sprigs parsley 1 garlic clove, crushed Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste 2 teaspoons sugar In a large flame-proof skillet, heat Crisco over medium heat. Once melted, add veal and fry until browned.
With the skillet still over medium heat, pour brandy over veal and let flame. Once flames have died down, add the shallots and brown around the veal for 35 minutes.
Still simmering the veal, sprinkle flour over top of the meat, then stir into the fat mixture to form a roux. Cook for 23 minutes, stirring constantly, then pour in cider a few tablespoons at a time until completely incorporated.
Add clove, bay leaf, thyme, parsley, and garlic to the veal, seasoning to taste with salt, pepper, and sugar. Still simmering, cover the pan and cook gently for 3540 minutes.
Suggested Pairings Sweet potatoes and apple sauce are traditional sides to serve with this type of veal dish, providing a filling - but sweet - accompaniment.