The unique addition of fresh beets - known as beetroot in London - mixed with these ingredients makes for a surprising, but delicious salad that everyone at Downton Abbey would enjoy. The festive mix of sweet flavors (such as maple syrup and orange juice) would provide guests at any garden party or luncheon with an extra excuse to smile.
YIELDS 46 SERVINGS 4 medium beets, scrubbed, trimmed, and cut in half 12 cup walnuts, chopped 3 tablespoons maple syrup 1 tablespoon unsalted b.u.t.ter 10 ounces fresh spinach, washed and dried 12 cup frozen orange juice concentrate 14 cup balsamic vinegar 12 cup extra-virgin olive oil 4 ounces feta cheese, crumbled 2 oranges, sliced Place beets in saucepan and cover with water. Bring to a boil, then cook for 30 minutes or until tender. Drain and cool, then cut beets into cubes.
Place walnuts in a skillet and briefly heat over medium-low heat. Add maple syrup and b.u.t.ter. Cook and stir until walnuts are evenly coated, then remove from heat and let cool.
In a small bowl whisk together orange juice concentrate, balsamic vinegar, and olive oil, and set aside.
Place a large helping of spinach leaves on plates, then divide candied walnuts among plates over greens. Place equal amount of beets over greens, then top with feta cheese. Drizzle each plate with some of the dressing, followed by orange slices.
Suggested Pairings This salad would be an excellent dish to serve before Creamless Steak au Poivre (see Chapter 4), Daisy"s Downton Rib Roast (see Chapter 5), or the Seven-Hour Leg of Lamb (see Chapter 4).
Chapter 6.
SEVENTH COURSE: THE NECESSARY VEGETABLE.
In Edwardian-era society, vegetables weren"t high on the list of important culinary necessities for a meal, as Edwardian socialites - and more importantly, their chefs - had little fundamental knowledge of basic nutrition. Thus, the following vegetable recipes are quite heavy on the b.u.t.ter - and subsequent tastiness. Nonetheless, these dishes would serve as a nice buffer between meat courses and the following decadent desserts (see Chapters 7 and 12).
Potatoes Lyonnaise
A delicious side that goes especially well with the meat dishes favored at Downton Abbey, including Crispy Roast Duck with Blackberry Sauce (see Chapter 5) and Guard of Honor Lamb with Mint Sauce (Chapter 4), this dish was created in the French city of Lyon (hence the name Lyonnaise), which is one of the capitals of French gastronomy. Lyon has also produced delicious dishes such as Coq au Vin (see Chapter 10) and Creamy Chocolate Mousse (see Chapter 7).
YIELDS 68 SERVINGS 3 pounds Yukon Gold potatoes, brushed and washed 2 teaspoons kosher salt 4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 4 yellow onions, sliced 2 tablespoons minced garlic 12 cup unsalted b.u.t.ter, chopped 1 teaspoon white pepper 2 tablespoons curly parsley, chopped Preheat oven to 400F.
Place potatoes in a large pot and fill with cold water until potatoes are just covered. Bring water to a boil, adding 1 teaspoon of the salt. Reduce heat to medium-high and cook potatoes for 1215 minutes. Potatoes are ready when they are only slightly tender. Remove potatoes from pot and drain thoroughly; do not rinse. Once potatoes are cool enough to touch and have dried thoroughly, remove skin. Cut them into 12-inch slices.
Heat olive oil in a large ovenproof skillet over medium-high heat. Lower heat, then add onions and cook for 1012 minutes, stirring frequently, until onions are golden brown and tender. Season to taste with salt and add garlic. Cook garlic for 35 minutes until also golden. Transfer to a platter and set aside.
Place the same ovenproof skillet over low heat. Melt b.u.t.ter, then cover bottom of pan with a third of the potatoes. Season with more salt and white pepper. Cover with half of onion mixture, and season again with salt and white pepper. Cover with half of remaining potatoes, and season with rest of salt and white pepper. Spread the rest of onion mixture over potatoes, then top with remaining potatoes and season with white pepper. Cover with foil.
Bake potatoes in preheated oven for 1215 minutes or until potatoes are tender and browning on top. Remove skillet from oven and use a spatula to carefully transfer potatoes to a serving platter. Sprinkle with curly parsley and serve when hot.
Etiquette Lessons No matter how large a slice of potato, in the Edwardian era you were never to use a knife on a dish to cut the food if it could be done with simply a fork. As the 1886 manners guide Etiquette: Rules & Usages of the Best Society explains: "Everything that can be cut without using a knife should be eaten with the fork alone." That said, do not toy with your knife or any of your cutlery. One was not to fidget at a dinner party.
British Brussels Sprouts with Chestnuts
Just like the British aristocracy, Brussels sprouts are seen as a rather snooty - and hard to like - vegetable. However, Mrs. Patmore would know that even the Dowager Countess would enjoy this dish when a hint of half-and-half (or even heavy cream) is added! Even the Earl of Grantham would be tempted to lose his manners in an attempt to acquire a second serving of this side dish.
YIELDS 68 SERVINGS 2 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter 1 teaspoon kosher salt 12 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 12 teaspoon sugar 1 cup water 8 cups Brussels sprouts, trimmed and halved lengthwise 112 cups half-and-half 1 cup roasted chestnuts, crumbled Using a large, heavy skillet, bring b.u.t.ter, salt, pepper, sugar, and water to a boil over high heat. Lower heat and slowly stir in Brussels sprouts and let simmer, partially covered and stirring occasionally, for 810 minutes.
Remove lid and turn up heat. Boil over medium-high heat for 45 minutes, or until water evaporates and Brussels sprouts are lightly browned.
Stir in half-and-half and turn up heat. Bring mixture to a boil, stirring frequently. Reduce heat and add in chestnuts, letting simmer while stirring occasionally, about 35 minutes or until chestnuts are heated through.
Suggested Pairings The simple yet pleasing taste of these Brussels sprouts would go well with the regal Steak Cha.s.seur (see Chapter 4) or incredibly sweet and fancy Filet Mignon with Foie Gras and Truffle Sauce (see Chapter 4).
Asparagus with Hollandaise Sauce
Mrs. Patmore would likely serve more than asparagus with this creamy hollandaise sauce, but this dish would be a particularly popular offering. Mrs. Patmore would also be quite proud of herself for making this dish, as good hollandaise sauce is difficult to make.
YIELDS 4 SERVINGS.
For Asparagus 1 pound medium-sized asparagus 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil 12 teaspoon kosher salt 14 teaspoon freshly ground white pepper For Sauce 1 large egg yolk 2 teaspoons lemon juice 1 teaspoon cayenne pepper 14 cup unsalted b.u.t.ter, melted 1 teaspoon kosher salt Preheat oven to 400F.
To make the asparagus: Trim asparagus. On a well-greased shallow roasting dish, spread asparagus spears in a single layer. Drizzle asparagus with olive oil, then sprinkle with salt and white pepper.
Roast the asparagus until lightly browned and incredibly tender, about 1520 minutes.
To make the sauce: Blend together the egg yolk, lemon juice, and cayenne pepper. Gradually add the melted b.u.t.ter to the egg mixture to make a frothy sauce. Season with kosher salt and serve immediately.
Spread the roasted asparagus on a serving platter. For a spicier option, grind a fair amount of black or white pepper on top.
Times Gone By The word menu is derived from the Latin word "minor" or "minutus," AKA the "minutes" of a meeting. Menus are a gift to the guests of a feast or dinner party, as menus lay out the plan for the evening and allow guests to judge just how much of everything they want to eat.
Daisy"s Noisette Potatoes
This is a very basic yet scrumptious side that novice cook Daisy could make while Mrs. Patmore does the more heavy lifting. Later, of course, Daisy would prove herself to be quite the competent chef and even asks for a promotion, much to the consternation of Mrs. Patmore, who would prefer that Daisy continue making this potato dish for quite a bit more time.
YIELDS 4 SERVINGS.
6 Russet potatoes 14 cup clarified b.u.t.ter Kosher salt Freshly ground black pepper Preheat oven to 375F.
Scrub and peel the potatoes under cold water. Use the smaller end of a melon-baller to scoop out at least 25 small b.a.l.l.s of potato flesh. Keep round b.a.l.l.s of potatoes in cold water until ready to cook.
Heat b.u.t.ter in an ovenproof pan over medium heat. Saute the potato b.a.l.l.s in b.u.t.ter over medium heat for 5 minutes, stirring often.
Transfer pan to preheated oven and bake for 2530 minutes, stirring occasionally, until potato b.a.l.l.s are tender and golden. Season with salt and pepper, and serve.
Times Gone By These potatoes are called noisette potatoes because their size, once balled, is similar to that of a hazelnut, or noisette, the French word for hazelnut. Because most refined ladies would know what noisette means in English, they would smile at this dish and understand its name.
Red WineBraised Red Cabbage with Apples
A German-inspired recipe, this sweet dish with a spice of sour red cabbage would add a bit of flair to the most formal of occasions. This would be especially popular during the winter months at Downton Abbey when the Crawleys are feeling a bit Christmas-y and in need of extra warmth. For an additional bit of sweetness, add a few teaspoons of honey.
YIELDS 46 SERVINGS 4 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter 1 medium head red cabbage, shredded 2 large tart apples, thinly sliced 1 medium to large red onion, thinly sliced 1 cup good red wine 14 cup red wine vinegar 12 cup apple juice 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon 12 teaspoon nutmeg 1 teaspoon kosher salt 14 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1 tablespoon and 1 teaspoon packed light brown sugar Heat b.u.t.ter over medium-high heat in a large saucepan. Lower to medium heat and add cabbage, apples, and onion. Cook for 5 minutes, stirring to fully coat. Reduce heat to low; then stir in red wine, wine vinegar, and apple juice, followed by spices and brown sugar. Cover and simmer for 4045 minutes, then uncover and cook for an additional 10 minutes until excess juices have evaporated.
Times Gone By During the late 1800s and early 1900s, the men liked to be left alone after the meal not only to over-drink and to tell coa.r.s.e jokes but to smoke... a habit originally considered unacceptable for respectable women. However, by World War I, Emily Post and other leaders of etiquette claimed it was okay and even acceptable for women to smoke - though not to get drunk, of course! Still, both men and women liked their alone time after a meal, as the dinner party with its somewhat risque seating (men and women sitting next to one another) could be an exhausting performance for both s.e.xes, and it was believed that the women could only be at ease with other women, and the same for men.
Decadent d.u.c.h.ess Potatoes
These bites of potato are little works of art. Daisy would have to spend a great deal of time with Mrs. Patmore to perfect these so they were acceptable for the Granthams" table.
YIELDS 46 SERVINGS 2 pounds Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and cut into chunks 14 cup heavy cream 12 cup unsalted b.u.t.ter, divided 13 cup grated Parmesan cheese 14 teaspoon nutmeg 1 teaspoon kosher salt 1 teaspoon white pepper 3 large egg yolks 2 tablespoons melted b.u.t.ter Place potatoes in a large pot and cover with salted cold water. Bring to a simmer and cook until the potatoes are tender, about 30 minutes.
While the potatoes are cooking, melt 2 tablespoons of b.u.t.ter in a small bowl and set aside. Preheat oven to 350F.
When the potatoes are cooked, drain and place potatoes back in the pot over low heat. Allow them to release steam, then add the 2 tablespoons of melted b.u.t.ter and mash until the b.u.t.ter is incorporated. Thoroughly mix in cheese, nutmeg, salt, and white pepper. Finally, mix in egg yolks. Mash until the mixture is smooth but do not mash too much.
Using a piping bag with a large star point, pipe the potatoes onto a cookie sheet. Drizzle the rosettes with melted b.u.t.ter. Bake the potatoes for 1530 minutes or until heated through. Then place the baking sheet under a preheated broiler, about 68 inches from the heat, and broil until the tops are golden brown.
Times Gone By The influential French chef Georges Auguste Escoffier (18461935) included a recipe for this dish in his pivotal book on "haute cuisine" t.i.tled Le Guide Culinaire, which was published in France in 1903. Although the English translation of this cookbook wasn"t printed until 1907, Escoffier"s reputation preceded him and many chefs by then already knew his recipes.
Creamed Carrots
Thanks to the amount of b.u.t.ter in this recipe, these carrots are a delicious addition to any meal, such as Steak Cha.s.seur (see Chapter 4) or Daisy"s Downton Rib Roast (see Chapter 5). Thanks to the low amount of effort needed to cook this vegetable dish, Mrs. Patmore could focus on the other courses while Daisy kept an eye on the carrots.
YIELDS 68 SERVINGS 1 cup low-sodium vegetable broth 3 pounds fresh carrots, cut into 14- to 12-inch slices 14 cup unsalted b.u.t.ter 1 tablespoon sugar 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour 1 teaspoon kosher salt 12 teaspoon freshly ground white pepper 1 cup heavy cream In a large saucepan, bring broth to a boil. Add carrots, then reduce heat to a simmer. Cover and let simmer for 15 minutes or until the carrots are tender.
Meanwhile, melt b.u.t.ter in a small saucepan. Stir in sugar, flour, salt, and white pepper until smooth. Gradually add cream. Bring mixture to a boil, then cook, stirring often, until thickened.
Drain carrots. Coat with cream sauce and then toss to thoroughly coat.
Etiquette Lessons The place setting for each guest is a matter of strict propriety. From the right of the plate, going from outside in, should be the oyster fork in the bowl of the soup spoon, the fish knife, the meat knife, followed by the fruit or salad knife. On the right, again from the outside in, should be the fish fork, the meat fork, and the salad or fruit fork. This is because silverware is placed in the order in which it is used, thus cutlery used for first courses would be found on the outer edge of the setting. As this is a British table setting, where salad is typically eaten last, the salad fork will be found on the inside of the setting. In America, where salad is eaten first, the salad fork would be found on the outside of the setting.
Pommes de Terre Sarladaise (Potatoes Cooked in Duck Fat)
While it"s not a familiar delicacy for Americans, duck fat is a well-known ingredient in France and for the culinary elite of England. Mrs. Patmore would know that the duck fat enhances the agreeable rustic flavor of the fried potatoes.
YIELDS 46 SERVINGS 2 pounds Yukon Gold potatoes 4 tablespoons duck fat 1 teaspoon kosher salt 1 bunch fresh parsley 4 cloves garlic 12 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper Peel, rinse, and dry potatoes. Cut them into 14-inch-thick slices.
Heat duck fat in a medium heavy pot over medium-high heat until fat is fully melted. When the fat is nice and hot, put in potatoes and cover them. Reduce the heat to low and let potatoes cook for 12 hour.
While potatoes cook, chop parsley and garlic together.
After the potatoes have cooked for 12 hour, turn them over gently with a wooden spoon, moving the crispy bottom to the top. Keep potatoes covered in duck fat. Add salt, chopped parsleygarlic mix, and pepper. Cover and cook for an additional 15 minutes.
Etiquette Lessons To help dinner guests prepare themselves for the meal ahead of them, they would find at their place settings a menu listing the courses awaiting them. Menus would also be used as a means of "showing off" the many exotic ingredients and/or methods of cooking the chef used. Restaurants would later copy this idea by giving fancy names to rather mundane dishes as a means of suggesting that the diners could not find or make the same dishes at home. Translating the dish"s name into French was a sure-fire way of impressing customers without any additional work.