On Sunday, the 20th of August, having covered the said 400 leagues, the dawn found us close to four small and low islands, with sandy beaches, and many palm and other trees. Together they appeared to be 8 leagues in circ.u.mference, more or less. They are in a square, very close to each other. From S.W. to N.E., and towards E. there are banks of sand, where there are no means of entrance, and a point was found in the reef which goes more to S.W. The General gave the name of "San Bernardo" to these islands, as it was that saint"s day. He wanted to find a port among these islands, but desisted at the request of the Vicar. It was not known whether they were inhabited, although the people in the galeot said they had seen canoes, but this was believed to be a mistake. The islands are in 10 20" S., and in longitude 400 leagues from Lima.
Pa.s.sing these four islands the wind came from S.E., which always blows, sometimes with light showers, and thick dense cloud-ma.s.ses were not wanting. These ma.s.ses were of various colours, and, strangely enough, they formed themselves into various figures, and in contemplating them they remained for a long s.p.a.ce of time. Sometimes they were so fixed that they were not dissipated during the whole day. As they were in an unknown direction, it was thought that they were indications of land. We continued to steer a westerly course, sometimes N.W. and S.W., always in lat.i.tudes in accordance with the will and instructions of the General, which were not to go higher than 12 or lower than 8. Generally we were in 10 to 11.
On Tuesday, the 29th of August, we sighted a low round island covered with trees, and surrounded by a reef which rose above the water. It was about a league in circ.u.mference, and in lat.i.tude 10 40" S., distant from Lima 1,535 leagues. As it was by itself, it was named "Solitaria." The Adelantado ordered the two small vessels to go in sh.o.r.e and seek for a port, so as to get wood, of which the Almiranta was much in need, and to see if water could be procured, of which there was also much scarcity. They anch.o.r.ed in 10 fathoms, and with loud cries told the General to stand off, as the bottom was full of great rocks. They were going and coming with the sounding line sometimes finding 10 fathoms, at others 100 fathoms. There was no bottom in places, and to see the vessel among such rocks aroused alarm. There was no want of haste to get her away into the open sea. All round this island there are a great number of rocks, and the channel between these rocks is to the south.
At this time the soldiers, being influenced by their privations, and wearied from the disappointment of their hopes, formed both public and private a.s.semblies to murmur and talk, which was a dissolution of discipline, and an indication of what would happen afterwards.
The Camp Master (as has been said) was somewhat violent, and he had quarrels with many people in the ship. In fine, experience and time taught me what should be said, and I saw what should be done with regard to his evil behaviour and menaces. In general we said as follows: "We do not come here to lose but to gain. The Camp Master orders things for the King"s service, as the King desires he should order them, and we all have to obey. Do your duty, and leave the things that do not belong to it. Avoid insults and threats to the stick, for we will not suffer it. With so small a company so many heads may be dispensed with. Our General is enough, for we are not going where the usages of Flanders or of Italy are needed; nor are we naked Indians, and for us death-dealing soldiers are not necessary; but we are courageous and well-intentioned persons. Above all, we must watch the General and the Camp Master, that each one may do his part, and carefully and in detail give an account of what he may succeed in hearing; while they conceal things in such a manner that, when asked about them, they know nothing." For unjust eyes have been turned upon those who are far from any fault, and these, when they wish to defend themselves, it would be necessary to have angels for their sureties, for there is no place for a fair hearing.
There was little reason, and so life was pa.s.sed, many saying that there was an end of it, for that we should never find the land; that there was no necessity for so much rule, death being certain. Others said that the Isles of Solomon had fled away, or that the Adelantado had forgotten the place where they were to be found, or that the sea had risen and covered them. Others said that, to call himself a Marquis and advance his own relations, he had taken them, with 400 pounds of biscuit, to perish in that great gulf, to go to the bottom and fish for those wonderful pearls he had talked about. They put forward their arguments and said one thing and another: that we had navigated for so many days in 10, and the islands we seek are said to be in the same lat.i.tude, and yet they are not to be found. Either we have pa.s.sed them, or they do not exist, for by this road we shall go round the world, or at least we shall come at last to Great Tartary. Neither the Chief Pilot, nor the other Pilots, nor the Adelantado, know where they are taking us to, nor where we are at present. They could easily give or take away rewards to whom they chose, and follow their own likings.
The Pilots of the other ships said that they took their vessels on rocks and over the land, because the place where they were painted had been rubbed off for many days, owing to the great and little height they had navigated; and they said other things which were for the soldiers. Also, there were those who said that in hard times and long voyages the soldiers know their true friends.
The Chief Pilot, against whom there were suspicions that he would never find the sought-for land, knowing that they had pa.s.sed far beyond the longitude given by the Adelantado, and yet that he was the authority to whom they all turned, spoke to the General with a view to consoling the soldiers, who were so afflicted. He answered, that they had also said to him that all would be lost. The Chief Pilot, for satisfaction on his part, said many things in a loud voice, and concluded by saying: "Hear me, and do not answer to what is said. Hold yourselves in the belief that my words merit, for consider that I did not come to navigate in order that I myself might perish." The Captain, Don Lorenzo, then came forward with some remarks very far from the mark, to whom the Chief Pilot answered: "Those who do not understand the affair, why should they speak to others?" After these discourses there were those who complained, saying among themselves: "This business is very different from what it was supposed to be. Here there is neither honour nor life, as we are all companions who live in this house without doors, and without tokens of friendship." But there did not want those who said: "What hospitals have been founded or served by those that desire to please G.o.d and obtain their desires? Take what is given us with joyful faces, for this is the best way; and this being so, what is wanting will be that which need not concern us."
CHAPTER VIII.
How an island was discovered, that of the volcano was examined, and the loss of the Almiranta.
These complaints caused much suffering to the Adelantado, making him avoid both public and private sins, which he did as much as was in his power, and giving an example in order to obtain peace for all. With the beads in his hand, and without loss of a day, he ordered the "Salve" to be raised before the image of Our Lady of Solitude, which the Chief Pilot had brought for his own devotions. He also caused the vespers of Holy Days to be solemnly observed, banners to be displayed, and streamers to be hoisted, while warlike instruments were played. To practice the soldiers this was done every afternoon, others a.s.sisting as much as they could, although it should entail additional work.
In this state was the Capitana when the Almiranta asked the Adelantado for a boat-load of wood, saying that, for want of fuel, they had burnt boxes, and were using the upper works of the ship. This was granted, and on another day the Admiral came on board the Capitana to greet the Adelantado, as was customary. He then told the General of his necessities, and begged that they would not part company, and with this promise they were rejoiced. He sought for succour as regards water, saying that he only had nine jars left. The Admiral showed much despondency, saying that the defects of his ship were numerous, but that he was determined to die with his people, because for that he had come. The Adelantado did what he could to cheer him, and ordered him to make sail, saying that the islands could not be far off. The Master represented that, owing to there being little ballast, the ship was very crank, and for this reason she would not bear much sail; that there were one hundred and eighty persons on board, and that he hoped he would at least give them twenty jars of water. The Adelantado, although at that time he had more than four hundred jars full, would not give one, for the report seemed to him false.
With these and other misfortunes they sailed on until the 7th of September, when, with a rather fresh S.E. breeze, the ship only had a foresail on her without a bonnet, [51] steering west. There was seen ahead a ma.s.s of dark smoke, for which reason the Chief Pilot ordered the galeot and frigate to go on, keeping in sight of each other, and see what land or reefs there were, and to report by burning two lights, and two others in reply or in warning. But they were to return before nightfall.
With this anxious doubt they continued to navigate with the care that such a night made necessary. At 9 the Almiranta was seen, and at 11, on the port side, there was a great and thick ma.s.s of cloud, which covered the horizon in that direction. The sailors, and all who turned their eyes upon it, were doubtful whether it was land. The fog raised its curtain, which was in the form of a dense shower, and land was clearly seen, less than a league distant. It was announced in the customary way, in a loud voice, and all hands came out to see. The galeot made many signals to the other ships, and, though the night was dark, they could be seen at a great distance. The two ships answered, but no signal was seen from the other. The night was pa.s.sed praying to G.o.d to send the day. When it came, a point was seen rather dark and rounded, being covered with trees, looking very beautiful; but, looking round for the Almiranta, she was nowhere to be seen; on which every one was sad and anxious, showing the feeling that it was natural they should have. It was Mariana de Castro, the Admiral"s wife, who felt it most, for she blamed herself, and wept continually. The General, though he wished to do so, could not dissimulate, for all saw that his thoughts were bitter. What may be said is, that he was always apprehensive of the loss of this ship, for many reasons which might be given, some of which were spoken at Sana, now at a distance of 1,085 leagues. Next day, at dawn, they were repeated by a native woman, who mourned for the loss of a soldier, a friend of hers, who was in the ship.
When the daylight appeared, they beheld a single pointed mountain rising out of the sea like a sugar-loaf, all cut out, and to the S.E. another small hill. It seemed to be distant about three leagues, being eight from the island, and it has no port, nor any place where one could jump on to the slope. It is quite bare, there being no trees nor anything green. There are some crevices, two especially on the west side, and out of them as well as from the summit of the mountain, a great quant.i.ty of sparks and fire came out with much noise. It may be said with truth that ten volcanoes together do not send forth such flames as this one does by itself. When it was first sighted it was not seen to send out flames. It had a very well-formed peak; but, a few days after we anch.o.r.ed at the island, it threw off its crown with a great trembling, insomuch that, being 10 leagues distant from it where we were anch.o.r.ed, we heard it, and it moved the ship. From that time forward, every now and then, there were mighty thunderings within the mountain at the time that the flames burst forth; and when they finished, there was so much and such dense smoke, that it seemed to cover the whole concave of the first heaven. [52]
The Adelantado gave orders to the frigate to sail round the volcano, which was to the west, to see if perchance the Almiranta was on the other side of it, and was becalmed under the land, and then to proceed in the direction of the island. He also ordered the soldiers to be confessed, and, to set an example, he himself confessed in public. The Vicar also persuaded them, for they were about to visit an unknown land, where enemies and dangers would not be wanting.
CHAPTER IX.
How a great number of canoes came out to the ships from the land; gives an account of them and of the natives, and of the rest that took place until they went into port.
Being near this island, there came out from it a large canoe with a sail, and behind it a fleet of fifty smaller canoes, the people in them calling to the ships with shouts and waving of hands, our men, though doubtfully, calling in return. They arrived. The natives in them were of a black colour; some of them tawny, with frizzled hair; many of them having it white, red, and of other colours. It certainly must have been dyed, and half of it removed from the head in some, and there were other differences. They were all naked. Their teeth were dyed red. Part of their bodies was covered with woven stuff, and all were painted with lines blacker than their own colour, and they had lines on their faces and bodies. They had many turns of a black reed round their arms, and many strings of very small beads of bone and fish"s teeth round their necks, and many plates of mother-of-pearl, small and great, hanging from various parts. The canoes were small, and some came fastened together, two and two, with frames rather high, as counterpoises, like those of the former islands. Their arms were bows, with arrows having very sharp points of toasted wood, and others with bone harpoon-shaped points. Some were feathered, with the point anointed, and carried in quivers. The ointment appeared to be from a herb. Although they do little harm, they carry stones, clubs of heavy wood, which are their swords, and darts of stout wood, with three rows of harpoons, in length more than a palmo [53] to the points. They carried from a shoulder-belt a kind of bag, well worked, and full of biscuits, made from a certain root, which they were all eating as they came along, and readily gave away some of it. When the Adelantado saw their colour, he took them for the people he was in search of, and said: "This is such and such an island or land." He spoke to them in the language he had learnt during his first voyage, but they never understood him, nor did he understand them.
They went on to look at the ships, and all went chattering round them; but they would not come on board, though we tried to persuade them. On the contrary, after consulting, they took their arms quickly, apparently incited by a tall and lean old native who was in the front, and without more ado they drew their bows ready to shoot. The old man addressed them, the word was pa.s.sed from one to the other, and for some time there was indecision; but, finally, their resolution was formed, and, giving a shout, they shot off all their bows, and sent many arrows into the sails and on other parts of the ship, without doing any other harm. Seeing this, orders were given to the soldiers, who were ready, to fire their arquebuses. Some were killed, many others were wounded, and they all fled in great terror. They were followed in the boat by four arquebusiers, and overtaken. Two jumped into the water to save their lives, who were spared, and the rest, jumping out on the beach, hid themselves among the trees.
We stood off and on, seeking for a port, which all so much desired, with the patience taught by the severe work they had gone through, understanding that a landing would bring us certain refreshment. The frigate came back without having seen the Almiranta, which aroused our grief and fear afresh, and all three vessels anch.o.r.ed at the mouth of a bay, under the shelter of some rocks. The bottom was dangerous, and with the rising tide the galeot got adrift at about 10 in the evening. Seeing the danger of driving on the rocks, the General came out to give courage to the men, and raise the anchors. The noise and hurry was great, the danger being imminent, and the night time made it appear greater than it was. The negligence of the soldiers was reprehensible, and there were not wanting those who cried out: "The services which merit approval from the King are neither these cares nor want of care. Let the brave Peruvians go below, and let those who get the credit do the work. This ship must be looked after among them, for it is for their credit, and to save their own lives." They did not want to work, and had no shame; but, without their help, G.o.d was served by our getting up the anchors. Having made sail, the ship got out into the open sea, though not without some difficulty, for the waves came on board and made her heel over.
At dawn the Adelantado went on board the galeot to seek for a port; and the Chief Pilot found one, though small. The volcano bore N.W. The port was sheltered to the S.E., and had 12 fathoms of depth, a village, a river, fuel and timber, and fresh air. The Adelantado came back without having found a port, and the ships entered the bay. As it was late they anch.o.r.ed under a point. The Sergeant landed with twelve arquebusiers to secure a position. The natives of the village came out, and shot off arrows with such force, that our men were obliged to take refuge in a hut. Two volleys were fired from the ship, which put the natives to flight, and the boat was sent for the men. All that night the ships were at sea, and the next day the Adelantado found a harbour sheltered from all winds, where he anch.o.r.ed in 15 fathoms, and near the sh.o.r.e, where there were villages and a river. All night the noise of music and dancing was heard, striking drums and tambourines of hollow wood, at which the natives pa.s.sed their time.
CHAPTER X.
How the natives came to see the ships; how they found another better port; of the guazabra that the natives gave; and what happened until the settlement was formed.
Having anch.o.r.ed in the place already mentioned, many natives came to see the ships and our people. Most of them had red flowers in their hair and in their nostrils, and some of them were persuaded by our people to come on board the ships, leaving their arms in the canoes. Among them there came a man of fine presence and tawny-coloured skin, with plumes on his head of blue, yellow, and red, and in his hand a bow, with arrows pointed with carved bone. On either side of him were two natives, with more authority than the rest. We understood this man to be a personage, both because he appeared to be greater than the others, and because of the respect with which he was treated. Presently he came forward, and asked by signs who was our chief. The Adelantado received him with much love, and, taking him by the hand, let him know who he was. He said that his name was Malope, and the Adelantado said that his was Mendana. Malope understood, and said that henceforward his name should be Mendana, and that Mendana"s name should be Malope. When this exchange of names had been effected, he showed that he put great value on it, and when anyone called him Malope he said no, that his name was Mendana; and pointing with his finger to the Adelantado, he said that was Malope.
He also said that he was called Jauriqui: that name appearing to mean chief or captain. The Adelantado dressed him in a shirt, and gave him a few trifles of little value. To other natives the soldiers gave feathers, little bells, gla.s.s beads, bits of cloth and cotton, and even playing-cards, all which they put round their necks. They taught the natives to say "friends," and to make a cross with two fingers, embracing them in token of peace, all which they did learn and constantly practised. They showed them looking-gla.s.ses, and with razors they shaved their heads and chins, and with scissors they cut their finger and toe-nails, at all which they rejoiced and were astonished; but they begged hard for the razors and scissors. They also found out what was under the men"s clothes, and, being undeceived, they played monkey tricks, such as those used by the natives of the first islands.
This continued for four days, and they came and went, and brought what food they had. One day Malope came, for he was the one whose visits were most frequent, and who showed most friendship, the ships being anch.o.r.ed near his village. The natives a.s.sembled with fifty canoes, in which they had their arms concealed, all waiting for Malope, who was on board the Capitana. They all fled because they saw a soldier take up an arquebus, and made for the sh.o.r.e, our people following them. On the beach there was another crowd of people, who received them with joy, and they had a great consultation. The soldiers were disappointed at such signs of peace, and would have preferred that they should have given occasion to break the peace and make war.
On that same afternoon the natives took all they possessed in the nearest houses, and retreated to the village of Malope. On the following night there were great fires on the other side of the bay, lasting nearly until morning, which seemed to be a signal for war; and this was confirmed when canoes were seen going in great haste from one village to another, as if they were warning or giving notice of something.
Next morning a boat was sent from the galeot to take in water at an adjacent stream. While they were thus employed, some concealed natives shouted and fired off arrows, which wounded three of our men. They followed down to the boat, where they were repulsed by the arquebusiers. The wounded were attended to, and the Adelantado at once ordered the Camp Master to land with thirty men, and to do all the harm they could with fire and sword. The natives stood their ground, when five were killed, and the rest fled. Our people retreated, and, embarking, came back to the ships, having cut down palm trees and burnt some huts and canoes. They brought away three pigs, which they killed.
On the same day the Adelantado sent the Captain, Don Lorenzo, in the frigate, with twenty soldiers and seamen, to seek for the Almiranta, with instructions to examine all the coast that was in sight, and to return to the place where they anch.o.r.ed on the first night of seeing the land. Thence he was to steer W. and N.W., which was the direction the Almiranta might have taken, beyond the route taken by the Capitana, and he was to see whether anything could be found in that direction.
He also ordered the Camp Master to rise early, and go quickly with forty soldiers to some huts which were near a hill, to punish the natives for having hit our men with arrows, in order that, by means of the chastis.e.m.e.nt inflicted on them, it might have the effect of preventing greater evils. He arrived without alarming the natives, occupied the paths, surrounded the houses, and set them on fire. Seven natives who were inside, seeing the fire and the people, defended themselves like brave men, and attacked our soldiers without regard for their own lives. Six were killed, and the other escaped by running, but was badly wounded. The Camp Master came back to the ship with seven wounded men and five dead pigs.
In the afternoon Malope came to the beach, for the houses and canoes that had been burnt belonged to him. In a loud voice, he cried to the Adelantado by the name of Malope, saying: "Malope! Malope!" and beating on his own breast, saying: "Mendana, Mendana!" In this way he made his complaint, showing the harm they had done him by pointing with his finger. He also made signs that his people had not shot arrows at our men, but that the aggressors came from the other side of the bay. He strung his bow, intending that we should all go against them, and that his people would help us in taking vengeance. The Adelantado called him with the intention of explaining matters; but he did not come. He went away, returning on another day, and friendship was restored.
On the day of St. Matthew, Apostle and Evangelist, they made sail from this port, steering for another which was better and more convenient, at a distance of half a league, and in the same bay. While altering our berth, the Captain, Don Lorenzo, came back with the news that in sailing round the island he had found another bay not less good than the one in which we were, and with more people and canoes; also, that further on he saw two fair-sized islands, near the large island, which were thickly peopled. To the S.E., at a distance of 8 leagues, he saw another island; 9 or 10 leagues to E.N.E. from where we hove to for the night when we first sighted land, he came on three islands, one 7 leagues round and the two others very small. They were all inhabited by brown people of a clear colour, covered with palm trees; and many reefs ran out to W.N.W., with openings and channels, of which no end was seen. [54] No sign whatever was seen of the ship of which they were in search.
We anch.o.r.ed in the second port, and the natives pa.s.sed the whole night in shouting, as if they were bull-fighting or having games, and very clearly we heard the word "amigo," and presently shouts. In this and making fires the night was pa.s.sed. When morning dawned, a troop of about five hundred natives came to the beach, all with their weapons in their hands, menacing and hurling arrows, darts, and stones at the ships in hostile fashion. Seeing that their missiles did not reach, some of them advanced into the water up to their b.r.e.a.s.t.s, while others began to swim; in short, all were equal in willingness, diligence, and noise. They came so near that, grappling with the buoys of the ships, they went on sh.o.r.e with them. Seeing their audacity, the Adelantado ordered Captain Lorenzo, his brother-in-law, to take fifteen soldiers in the boat, and to skirmish with them. Those with shields protected the arquebusiers and rowers, so that only two were hit, but there would have been more if it had not been for the shields, which were pa.s.sed from place to place. The natives fought in very scattered formation and by rushes, but showed themselves to be valorous, so that it was understood that we had met with a people who knew well how to defend their homes. But this only lasted during the time that our arms did not do the harm that they did and saw. As soon as they were undeceived by the death of two or three, and several wounded, they retreated from the beach, and, abandoning their aggressive att.i.tude, took the road to their homes, carrying the dead and wounded, creeping with the speed that we gave them into the woods. They carried the wounded in their arms, and helped others to walk, leaving the trail of their own blood where they went.
The Captain, Don Lorenzo, although he had no orders to land, followed the natives with his men, and the Camp Master, who was watching everything from the ship, shouted that the men were being placed in risk, and that if he was in another place he would punish one who a.s.sumed a licence that had not been given to him. Dona Isabel felt this very much, and wished it to be understood that, being her brother, for him there was no limit of licence in things military. The Camp Master landed with thirty soldiers, and went in pursuit of the natives, but as he would not wait, he had nothing to report.
It may be looked upon as certain that the Camp Master had said to the Captain, Don Lorenzo, that if he would not obey he was not fit to be a Captain; that he must pull up and know his duty, and that there were not wanting those who would teach him. When this came to the knowledge of Dona Isabel, she said things which were very deeply felt by the Camp Master; who did not come back, but went alone to pa.s.s the night at one of the villages of the natives which was near, and all that night silence was well kept.
CHAPTER XI.
How they began to treat of a settlement, and what pa.s.sed in forming it, and the complaints of the soldiers.