I have just arrived at this place after a journey through Portugal, and a part of Spain, of nearly 500 miles. We left Lisbon and travelled on horseback to Seville and Cadiz, and thence in the "Hyperion"
frigate to Gibraltar. The horses are excellent--we rode seventy miles a day. Eggs and wine, and hard beds, are all the accommodation we found, and, in such torrid weather, quite enough. My health is better than in England.
Seville is a fine town, and the Sierra Morena, part of which we crossed, a very sufficient mountain; but d.a.m.n description, it is always disgusting. Cadiz, sweet Cadiz! [1]--it is the first spot in the creation. The beauty of its streets and mansions is only excelled by the loveliness of its inhabitants. For, with all national prejudice, I must confess the women of Cadiz are as far superior to the English women in beauty as the Spaniards are inferior to the English in every quality that dignifies the name of man. Just as I began to know the princ.i.p.al persons of the city, I was obliged to sail.
You will not expect a long letter after my riding so far "on hollow pampered jades of Asia." Talking of Asia puts me in mind of Africa, which is within five miles of my present residence. I am going over before I go on to Constantinople.
Cadiz is a complete Cythera. Many of the grandees who have left Madrid during the troubles reside there, and I do believe it is the prettiest and cleanest town in Europe. London is filthy in the comparison. The Spanish women are all alike, their education the same. The wife of a duke is, in information, as the wife of a peasant,--the wife of peasant, in manner, equal to a d.u.c.h.ess. Certainly they are fascinating; but their minds have only one idea, and the business of their lives is intrigue.
I have seen Sir John Carr [2] at Seville and Cadiz, and, like Swift"s barber, have been down on my knees to beg he would not put me into black and white [3]. Pray remember me [4] to the Drurys and the Davies, and all of that stamp who are yet extant. Send me a letter and news to Malta. My next epistle shall be from Mount Caucasus or Mount Sion. I shall return to Spain before I see England, for I am enamoured of the country. Adieu, and believe me, etc.
[Footnote 1: In "Childe Harold" (Canto I., after stanza lx.x.xiv.), instead of the song "To Inez," Byron originally wrote the song beginning
"Oh never talk again to me Of northern climes and British ladies, It has not been your lot to see, Like me, the lovely girl of Cadiz."]
[Footnote 2: Sir John Carr (1772-1832), a native of Devonshire, and a barrister of the Middle Temple, was knighted by the Duke of Bedford as Viceroy of Ireland about 1807. He published "The Fury of Discord, a Poem" (1803); "The Sea-side Hero, a Drama in 3 Acts" (1804); and "Poems"(1809). But he is best known by his travels, which gained him the nickname of "Jaunting Carr," and considerable profit. "The Stranger in France" (1803) was bought by Johnson for 100. "A Northern Summer, or Travels round the Baltic, etc._(1805), "The Stranger in Ireland"
(1806), and "A Tour through Holland_(1807), were bought for 500, 700, and 600 respectively by Sir Richard Phillips, who, but for the ridicule cast upon Carr by Edward Dubois (in "My Pocket Book; or Hints for a Ryhte Merrie and Conceited Tour in Quarto, to be called "The Stranger in Ireland in 1805," by a Knight Errant"), would have given 600 for his "Caledonian Sketches" (1808). In spite, however, of this proof of damages, the jury found, in Carr"s action against Messrs. Hood and Sharpe, the publishers of "My Pocket Book", that the criticism was fair and justifiable (1808). Carr published, in 1811, his "Descriptive Travels in the Southern and Eastern Parts of Spain", without mentioning Byron"s name. Byron concluded his MS. of "Childe Harold", Canto I. with three stanzas on "Green Erin"s Knight and Europe"s Wandering Star" (see, for the lines, "Childe Harold", at the end of Canto I.). In letter vii.
of "Intercepted Letters; or the Twopenny Post-bag", by Thomas Brown the Younger (1813), occur the following lines:--
"Since the Chevalier C--rr took to marrying lately, The Trade is in want of a "Traveller" greatly-- No job, Sir, more easy--your "Country" once plann"d, A month aboard ship and a fortnight on land Puts your Quarto of Travels, Sir, clean out of hand."]
[Footnote 3:
"Once stopping at an inn at Dundalk, the Dean was so much amused with a prating barber, that rather than be alone he invited him to dinner.
The fellow was rejoiced at this unexpected honour, and being dressed out in his best apparel came to the inn, first inquiring of the groom what the clergyman"s name was who had so kindly invited him. "What the vengeance!" said the servant," don"t you know Dean Swift?" At which the barber turned pale, and, running into the house, fell upon his knees and intreated the Dean "not to put him into print; for that he was a poor barber, had a large family to maintain, and if his reverence put him into black and white he should lose all his customers." Swift laughed heartily at the poor fellow"s simplicity, bade him sit down and eat his dinner in peace, for he a.s.sured him he would neither put him nor his wife in print."
Sheridan"s "Life of Swift".--(Moore).]
[Footnote 4:
"This sort of pa.s.sage," says the Rev. Francis Hodgson, in a note on his copy of this letter, "constantly occurs in his correspondence. Nor was his interest confined to mere remembrances and inquiries after health. Were it possible to state "all" he has done for numerous friends, he would appear amiable indeed. For myself, I am bound to acknowledge, in the fullest and warmest manner, his most generous and well-timed aid; and, were my poor friend Bland alive, he would as gladly bear the like testimony;--though I have most reason, of all men, to do so."
(Moore).]
128.--To his Mother.
Gibraltar, August 11th, 1809.
Dear Mother,-I have been so much occupied since my departure from England, that till I could address you at length I have forborne writing altogether. As I have now pa.s.sed through Portugal, and a considerable part of Spain, and have leisure at this place, I shall endeavour to give you a short detail of my movements.
We sailed from Falmouth on the 2nd of July, reached Lisbon after a very favourable pa.s.sage of four days and a half, and took up our abode in that city. It has been often described without being worthy of description; for, except the view from the Tagus, which is beautiful, and some fine churches and convents, it contains little but filthy streets, and more filthy inhabitants. To make amends for this, the village of Cintra, about fifteen miles from the capital, is, perhaps in every respect, the most delightful in Europe; it contains beauties of every description, natural and artificial. Palaces and gardens rising in the midst of rocks, cataracts, and precipices; convents on stupendous heights--a distant view of the sea and the Tagus; and, besides (though that is a secondary consideration), is remarkable as the scene of Sir Hew Dalrymple"s Convention.[1] It unites in itself all the wildness of the western highlands, with the verdure of the south of France. Near this place, about ten miles to the right, is the palace of Mafra, the boast of Portugal, as it might be of any other country, in point of magnificence without elegance. There is a convent annexed; the monks, who possess large revenues, are courteous enough, and understand Latin, so that we had a long conversation: they have a large library, and asked me if the _English_ had _any books_ in their country?
I sent my baggage, and part of the servants, by sea to Gibraltar, and travelled on horseback from Aldea Galbega (the first stage from Lisbon, which is only accessible by water) to Seville (one of the most famous cities in Spain), where the Government called the Junta is now held. The distance to Seville is nearly four hundred miles, and to Cadiz almost ninety farther towards the coast. I had orders from the governments, and every possible accommodation on the road, as an English n.o.bleman, in an English uniform, is a very respectable personage in Spain at present. The horses are remarkably good, and the roads (I a.s.sure you upon my honour, for you will hardly believe it) very far superior to the best English roads, without the smallest toll or turnpike. You will suppose this when I rode post to Seville, in four days, through this parching country in the midst of summer, without fatigue or annoyance.
Seville is a beautiful town; though the streets are narrow, they are clean. We lodged in the house of two Spanish unmarried ladies, who possess _six_ houses in Seville, and gave me a curious specimen of Spanish manners. They are women of character, and the eldest a fine woman, the youngest pretty, but not so good a figure as Donna Josepha.
The freedom of manner, which is general here, astonished me not a little; and in the course of further observation, I find that reserve is not the characteristic of the Spanish belles, who are, in general, very handsome, with large black eyes, and very fine forms. The eldest honoured your _unworthy_ son with very particular attention, embracing him with great tenderness at parting (I was there but three days), after cutting off a lock of his hair, and presenting him with one of her own, about three feet in length, which I send, and beg you will retain till my return. Her last words were, _Adios, tu hermoso! me gusto mucho_--"Adieu, you pretty fellow! you please me much." She offered me a share of her apartment, which my _virtue_ induced me to decline; she laughed, and said I had some English _amante_ (lover), and added that she was going to be married to an officer in the Spanish army.
I left Seville, and rode on to Cadiz, through a beautiful country. At _Xeres_, where the sherry we drink is made, I met a great merchant--a Mr. Gordon of Scotland--who was extremely polite, and favoured me with the inspection of his vaults and cellars, so that I quaffed at the fountain head.
Cadiz, sweet Cadiz, is the most delightful town I ever beheld, very different from our English cities in every respect except cleanliness (and it is as clean as London), but still beautiful, and full of the finest women in Spain, the Cadiz belles being the Lancashire witches of their land. Just as I was introduced and began to like the grandees, I was forced to leave it for this cursed place; but before I return to England I will visit it again. The night before I left it, I sat in the box at the opera with Admiral Cordova"s family; [2] he is the commander whom Lord St. Vincent defeated in 1797, and has an aged wife and a fine daughter, Sennorita Cordova. The girl is very pretty, in the Spanish style; in my opinion, by no means inferior to the English in charms, and certainly superior in fascination. Long black hair, dark languishing eyes, _clear_ olive complexions, and forms more graceful in motion than can be conceived by an Englishman used to the drowsy, listless air of his countrywomen, added to the most becoming dress, and, at the same time, the most decent in the world, render a Spanish beauty irresistible.
I beg leave to observe that intrigue here is the business of life; when a woman marries she throws off all restraint, but I believe their conduct is chaste enough before. If you make a proposal, which in England will bring a box on the ear from the meekest of virgins, to a Spanish girl, she thanks you for the honour you intend her, and replies, "Wait till I am married, and I shall be too happy." This is literally and strictly true.
Miss Cordova and her little brother understood a little French, and, after regretting my ignorance of the Spanish, she proposed to become my preceptress in that language. I could only reply by a low bow, and express my regret that I quitted Cadiz too soon to permit me to make the progress which would doubtless attend my studies under so charming a directress. I was standing at the back of the box, which resembles our Opera boxes, (the theatre is large and finely decorated, the music admirable,) in the manner which Englishmen generally adopt, for fear of incommoding the ladies in front, when this fair Spaniard dispossessed an old woman (an aunt or a duenna) of her chair, and commanded me to be seated next herself, at a tolerable distance from her mamma. At the close of the performance I withdrew, and was lounging with a party of men in the pa.s.sage, when, _en pa.s.sant,_ the lady turned round and called me, and I had the honour of attending her to the admiral"s mansion. I have an invitation on my return to Cadiz, which I shall accept if I repa.s.s through the country on my return from Asia. [3]
I have met Sir John Carr, Knight Errant, at Seville and Cadiz. He is a pleasant man. I like the Spaniards much. You have heard of the battle near Madrid, [4] and in England they would call it a victory--a pretty victory! Two hundred officers and five thousand men killed, all English, and the French in as great force as ever. I should have joined the army, but we have no time to lose before we get up the Mediterranean and Archipelago. I am going over to Africa tomorrow; it is only six miles from this fortress. My next stage is Cagliari in Sardinia, where I shall be presented to His Majesty. I have a most superb uniform as a court dress, indispensable in travelling.
_August 13._--I have not yet been to Africa--the wind is contrary--but I dined yesterday at Algesiras, with Lady Westmorland, [5] where I met General Castanos, the celebrated Spanish leader in the late and present war. To-day I dine with him. He has offered me letters to Tetuan in Barbary, for the princ.i.p.al Moors, and I am to have the house for a few days of one of the great men, which was intended for Lady W., whose health will not permit her to cross the Straits.
_August 15_.--I could not dine with Castanos [6] yesterday, but this afternoon I had that honour. He is pleasant and, for aught I know to the contrary, clever. I cannot go to Barbary. The Malta packet sails to-morrow, and myself in it. Admiral Purvis, with whom I dined at Cadiz, gave me a pa.s.sage in a frigate to Gibraltar, but we have no ship of war destined for Malta at present. The packets sail fast, and have good accommodation. You shall hear from me on our route.
Joe Murray delivers this; I have sent him and the boy back. Pray show the lad kindness, as he is my great favourite; I would have taken him on. And say this to his father, who may otherwise think he has behaved ill. I hope this will find you well. Believe me,
Yours ever sincerely,
BYRON.
P.S.--So Lord G----[7] is married to a rustic. Well done! If I wed, I will bring home a Sultana, with half a dozen cities for a dowry, and reconcile you to an Ottoman daughter-in-law, with a bushel of pearls not larger than ostrich eggs, or smaller than walnuts.
[Footnote 1: Sir Hew Whitefoord Dalrymple (1750-1830) took command of the British forces in the Peninsular War, August 22, 1808, and signed the Convention of Cintra (August 31), by which Junot, whom Sir Arthur Wellesley had defeated at Vimeira, evacuated Portugal, and surrendered Elvas and Lisbon. The Convention was approved by a court of general officers ordered to sit at Chelsea Hospital; but Dalrymple never again obtained a command.
The so-called Convention of Cintra was signed at the palace of the Marquis de Marialva, thirty miles distant.]
[Footnote 2: Admiral Cordova commanded the Spanish Fleet, defeated, February 14, 1797, off Cape St. Vincent, by Sir John Jervis, afterwards Earl St. Vincent.]
[Footnote 3: To these adventures in his hasty pa.s.sage through Spain Byron briefly alludes in the early part of his _Memoranda._
"For some time," he said, "I went on prosperously both as a linguist and a lover, till at length the lady took a fancy to a ring which I wore, and set her heart on my giving it to her, as a pledge of my sincerity. This, however, could not be:--any thing but the ring, I declared, was at her service, and much more than its value,--but the ring itself I had made a vow never to give away." The young Spaniard grew angry as the contention went on, and it was not long before the lover became angry also; till, at length, the affair ended by their separating. "Soon after this," said he, "I sailed for Malta, and there parted with both my heart and ring."
("Life", p.93). He also alludes to the incident in "Don Juan", Canto II, stanza clxiv.--
""Tis pleasing to be school"d in a strange tongue By female lips and eyes--that is, I mean, When both the teacher and the taught are young, As was the case, at least, where I have been,"
etc.]