Then the earth, dry as tinder, offers an inviting field for the bush fires, which, departing, leave as a legacy only burning embers, where once flourished the brilliant flowers, dense underbrush, and verdant gra.s.ses of a tropical world.
But these are not the only features to be found in this section to-day.
Here may be seen machine shops ringing with the clang of busy workmen, iron sheds, and coal yards. Here, too, is a whole settlement of European houses, and a small town of huts, which serve as the dwellings of the native workmen. Situated on an elevated, airy site, a large, handsomely designed hospital greets the eye. While, as a crowning feature, a strong, substantial iron pier extends far out into the river.
Thus can we get some little idea of what the energy and the perseverance of the white man have accomplished within the last few years.
About forty miles from Boma the Congo suddenly changes its character, and temporarily becomes a veritable Colorado River. Madly, tempestuously, it rushes downward in its course, through a canon of bold, bare rocks, which tend to form a succession of falls and rapids.
The foot of this canon forms a natural limit to navigation from the sea.
Hence, all goods for the upper river stations have to be carried overland.
It was at this point that Stanley formed his first settlement. Just at the foot of the rapids, on the right bank of the river, the mountain of Vivi rises. About three hundred and fifty feet above the river, on an irregular plateau of the mountain, Stanley set to work.
First of all, the plateau was leveled, the immense rocks that reared their heads here and there were ground to pieces and used for road and house foundations. A road was built from the narrow beach to the selected site. Several houses were built, not only for the representatives of European nations, but for the natives also. Last but not least, a large garden was made by transporting the rich soil of the valley and filling in a tract previously excavated for the purpose.
This garden in a short time became a source of rest and enjoyment to the white residents at the station. It was the only spot on the bare and sterile hills where a particle of shade could be found from the glaring heat of the sun.
Stanley"s great success in all his expeditions was due to the fact that he believed in the n.o.bility of labor. It is interesting to learn that, during the work of founding the settlement, Stanley showed such skill in pulverizing the scattered rocks with his sledge hammer as to earn the name of Stone-breaker from the native chiefs. He soon became known by this t.i.tle among all the tribes dwelling upon the Congo.
At the end of three months the settlement at Vivi was completed. Leaving an American, Mr. Sparhawk, in charge, Stanley proceeded to Isangila. His object was to discover in which direction to build the projected road.
From Vivi to Isangila, we must remember, the river is unnavigable. The numerous cataracts and rapids of Livingstone Falls make a formidable obstruction. Isangila lies about fifty miles from Vivi. The interlying country is of an exceedingly rocky, rugged character.
The well-worn roads of the natives led, as is the custom, up and down the hills and valleys. "Straight as Roman roads," it was not possible for a wagon road to be laid over such ground.
After much planning and arduous labor a road was completed to Isangila.
From this point, goods brought overland from Vivi could be transported by boats launched upon the river. Then, with the exception of the upper Livingstone Falls, the wide stretches of the Congo from Isangila to the foot of Stanley Falls formed a natural highway, which required only navigation.
Stanley"s journal gives many details of the work of building the road from Vivi to Isangila. This road, which was fifteen feet broad, took a year to complete, but when finished it was a masterpiece. So strong was it, that heavy wagons, even when laden with steamers, launches, and boats, could safely travel over it.
Just above the cataracts, which mark the sudden decline from Stanley Pool to the river current, the settlement of Leopoldville was founded on the southern bank of the stream. It has an excellent situation on the northwest corner of the pool which serves as the connecting link between the Lower and Upper Congo.
On a piece of lofty ground, sloping down to the river and overlooking Kintamo Bay, Stanley decided to clear a site and begin to build.
Upon a long, wide terrace, which he cut out of the hillside, various buildings were erected. The largest house and all the headquarters were stoutly built of wood, and then plastered over with clay to the depth of two feet. This was to insure a fort in case of subsequent hostilities, when a garrison would be needed.
A little distance off the native village was built. Its proportions were considerable, as it had to accommodate upwards of one hundred and fifty natives.
The headquarters were commodious. They comprised five bedrooms, a large dining room, and a strong magazine. A large garden was laid out, and sheds and houses for live stock of various sorts were erected.
Petty acts of hostility committed by one of the native tribes occasioned much annoyance to the settlers. In order to preserve peace Stanley had resource to a rite known as blood brotherhood. He thus describes this curious performance, which he had frequently taken part in. The ceremony took place between Stanley and a native chief, Ngalyema.
"We crossed arms, an incision was made in each arm, some salt was placed on the wound, and then a mutual rubbing took place, while the great fetich man of Kintamo p.r.o.nounced an inconceivable number of curses on my head if I ever proved false. Susi, formerly Livingstone"s head man, not to be outdone by him, solicited the G.o.ds to visit unheard-of atrocious vengeances on Ngalyema if he dared to make the slightest breach in the sacred brotherhood, which made him and the Stone-breaker one and indivisible forever."
Stanley thus describes the town: "Leopoldville, with its one-story block house, commanding from its windows all approaches, impregnable to musket-armed natives, and proof against fire, despite its gra.s.s roof, because underneath that gra.s.s roof there was an earth roof two feet thick, on which fire might burn itself out harmlessly, offered a safe refuge, should trouble arise.
"The terrace was long and wide--the native village was formed of one broad street--flanked by a row of clay huts on either side. Slanting from a point thirty feet below the block house, and sloping gently down to the landing place, gardens of young bananas and vegetables extended beyond these huts. Water was handy, fuel was abundant."
From the summit of Leopold Hill, above the station, a most magnificent view lies before one. "The vast circle of water formed by Stanley Pool, the amphitheater of rocky mountains and lofty white cliffs, the large island of Bamu with many attendant satellites, combine to make a scene of a striking character."
CHAPTER XVII.
MORE VIEWS OF THE CONGO REGION.
Back, stretching far behind the lofty banks of the n.o.ble Congo, lies a country rich in its enormous wealth of natural productions. The toil and enterprise of another generation can hardly hope to gauge its resources, and it is doubtful if even coming generations can exhaust its stores.
The vegetation of the Upper Congo region is most wonderful. Whole forests of the oil palm are a common feature. From this tree vast quant.i.ties of oil are obtained, while the kernels are used for oil cakes. The India-rubber plant is another important production. Stanley believed that enough of the gum could be exported in a single year to defray the cost of a railway through that section. Vegetables of all descriptions are also abundant.
The trade in ivory alone would furnish, according to Stanley, an enormous revenue. He estimated that one million dollars" worth of ivory could be exported annually for twenty-five years, before the elephant would become extinct in the basin of the Upper Congo.
The banana and the plantain flourish, as do fruits and herbs of many kinds. Potatoes, onions, and cabbages have been introduced from Europe, and thrive here. Rice, wheat, and other grains have done well, when suitable localities have been chosen for them. There is, in fact, scarcely any limit to the natural advantages of an area of over a million square miles. Its fertility and richness of soil are at once a wonder and delight.
It must have been a great disappointment to Stanley, when, on his return from an official visit to Europe, he found that there had been gross and wanton neglect on the part of many whom he had left in charge of the settlement at Leopoldville.
He had pictured to himself well-cultivated gardens and flourishing fields. To his dismay, he found the native town almost hidden by the rank growth which held almost undisputed possession of the soil.
The steel boats were at anchor, as they had been for more than a year.
No attempt had been made to clean them or to keep them in repair.
The Europeans and the natives were on the worst of terms. One of the first things he did was to hold a conference with all the neighboring chiefs, and endeavor to restore the feelings of good-fellowship which had previously existed. So successful was he, that he soon induced the chiefs to sign a treaty, in which they agreed to unite with him, as a representative of the a.s.sociation, to control the entire country south and west of Stanley Pool for the purpose of promoting civilization.
The a.s.sociation had always been regarded as the chief power. It was in the eyes of the native chiefs invested with sovereign rights affecting peace, war, and commerce. Each chief received a flag of the a.s.sociation as a symbol of the new confederation. This he was to hoist above his gra.s.s-roofed hut on specified state occasions.
Soon after this treaty was signed, Stanley and his little fleet prepared to depart for the Upper Congo. He had a force of about eighty men and a cargo of about six tons, on board his little fleet of vessels, which consisted of two steamers, a launch, a whale boat, and a canoe.
He writes of his outfit: "We have axes to hew the forests, hammers to break the rock, spades to turn up the sod and to drain the marsh, or shovels to raise the rampart, scythes to mow the gra.s.s, hatchets to penetrate the jungle, and seeds of all kinds for sowing, saws to rip planking, and hammers, nails, and cabinet-makers" tools to make furniture, needles and thread for sewing all the cloth in these bales, twine to string their beads; and besides these useful articles in the cases, there are also countless "notions" and fancy knick-knacks to appease the cupidity of the most powerful chief, or excite the desire for adornment in woman."
Among other items may be mentioned some articles used in trade by the white man when he journeyed on the Congo: "A case of velvet caps and hats, six cases of fancy beads, forty-seven bales of cloth, an enormous quant.i.ty of medicine, ammunition, and provisions, and four thousand pounds of bra.s.s rods."
It is interesting to know that the currency of this section of Africa consists of a bra.s.s rod, short and slender. Great numbers of these are required to equal the value of a very small amount of money. Stanley, at one time, had to pay eight hundred of these rods for provisions enough to last the station at Leopoldville three days.
Stanley gives an interesting description of the Upper Congo above Chumbiri, where the wide stretches of the river are thickly studded with islets.
"We have been voyaging, since leaving Boma and the estuary-like breadth of the Lower Congo, in a pa.s.s, or defile. From Boma to Vivi, we steamed between two lines of mountain heights. Between Vivi and Isangila, we traveled in a narrow valley parallel with the chasmic trough of the Congo. Between Isangila and Manyanka, our boats ran up the crooked, ravine-like valley of the river. Between Manyanka and Leopoldville, we marched along the edge of the deep fracture in the high land through which the Congo continuously roars.
"Then, after a slight relief, obtained by the lake-like expansion called Stanley Pool, we have been confined again between two mountain lines of more or less picturesqueness, up as far as the rocky point above Chumbiri, to finally emerge into the lacustrine breadth, which the voluminous waters of the Congo have scooped out of the plains and lowlands which we now behold on either hand.
"The real heart of Equatorial Africa is this central fertile region, whose bountiful, unparalleled richness of soil will repay the toil and labor required to bring it within the reach of Europe.
"It was not the uplands of the maritime region, with their millions of ravines and narrow, oven-hot valleys, and bald gra.s.s tops, and limited bits of gra.s.sy plateaus, with here and there a grove of jungly forest scattered like islets amid the gra.s.sy wastes, that I strove for; it was this million square miles of almost level area, which we may call the kernel, that was worth the trouble of piercing the two hundred and thirty-five miles of thick, rude mountain husk which separates it from the energies of Europeans, who, could they but reach it, would soon teach the world what good might come out of Africa."
At the junction of the Ruki River with the Congo, Stanley established a settlement, first called Equator Station, then Equatorville, as it is situated on the Equator.
Proceeding always up stream, Stanley pa.s.sed through a perfect archipelago; for islets without number dotted the river current.
Here the forest trees attained a height of from one hundred and fifty to two hundred feet. The underbrush was so dense as to require the use of a hatchet before it could be penetrated.