July 15.
At six o"clock the sky became clear, the clouds had indeed left the mountain and, as soon as it was day, I mounted the frozen rock. In the dawn however all lower objects were blended in one grey shade, like the dead colouring of a picture. I could distinguish only a pool of water, apparently near the foot of the mountain. This water I afterwards found to be a lake eight miles distant and in my map I have named it Lake Lonsdale, in honour of the Commandant then or soon after appointed at Port Phillip. I hastily levelled my theodolite but the scene, although sublime enough for the theme of a poet, was not at all suited to the more commonplace objects of a surveyor. The sun rose amid red and stormy clouds, and vast ma.s.ses of a white vapour concealed from view both sea and land save where a few isolated hills were dimly visible. Towards the interior the horizon was clear and, during a short interval, I took what angles I could obtain. To the westward the view of the mountain ranges was truly grand. Southward or towards the sea I could at intervals perceive plains clear of timber and that the country was level, a circ.u.mstance of great importance to us; for I was apprehensive that between these mountains and the coast it might be broken by mountain gullies as it is in the settled colony and all along the Eastern coast.
If such had proved to be the case the carts could not have been taken there; and I must have altered the plan of my intended route. Before I could observe the angles so desirable clouds again enveloped the mountain, and I was compelled to quit its summit without completing the work. The wind blew keenly, the thermometer stood as low as 27 degrees, and in the morning the rocks were more thickly encrusted with ice.
DESCEND WITH DIFFICULTY.
The difficulty of our descent under such circ.u.mstances was therefore increased but no impediment could have arrested us then, the lower regions having so many attractive charms for such cold and hungry beings.
MEN TAKEN ILL.
That night on the summit materially injured the health of two of my best men who had been with me on all three of my expeditions. Muirhead was seized with ague and Woods with a pulmonary complaint; and although both recovered in a few weeks they were never so strong afterwards.
NEW PLANTS FOUND THERE.
We found upon the mountain, besides those already mentioned, various interesting plants which we had seen nowhere else. Amongst them:
A most beautiful downy-leaved Epacris with large, curved, purple flowers, allied to E. grandiflora but much handsomer.*
(*Footnote. E. tomentosa, Lindley ma.n.u.scripts; foliis ovatis acutis planis cra.s.sis tomentosis, floribus cernuis, corolla arcuata infundibulari laciniis obtusis apiculatis.)
A most remarkable species of Phebalium* with holly-like leaves and bright red flowers resembling those of a Boronia. It was related to P.
phylicifolium but quite distinct.
(*Footnote. P. bilob.u.m, Lindley ma.n.u.scripts; ramulis tomentosis, foliis glabris cordato-ovatis retusis bilobis dentatis margine revolutis, pedicellis axillaribus p.u.b.escentibus folio brevioribus, ovario tricorni.)
A new Cryptandra remarkable for its downy leaves.*
(*Footnote. C. tomentosa, Lindley ma.n.u.scripts; undique dense tomentosa, ramulis racemosis, foliis fasciculatis linearibus obtusis marginibus revolutis contiguis, capitulis terminalibus congestis, calycibus campanulatis bracteis acutis scariosis parum longioribus. Next to C.
propinqua.)
A beautiful species of Baeckea, with downy leaves and rose-coloured flowers resembling those of the dwarf almond.*
(*Footnote. B. alpina, Lindley ma.n.u.scripts; tota p.u.b.escens, foliis lineari-ovatis petiolatis obtusis concavis, pedicellis axillaribus et terminalibus foliis longioribus supra medium bibracteatis: bracteis oppositis obovatis cucullatis, laciniis calycinis cordatis obtusis petalis denticulatis duplo brevioribus, antheris apice verruciferis.)
A new Pultenaea allied to P. biloba, but more hairy and with the flowers half concealed among the leaves.*
(*Footnote. P. montana, Lindley ma.n.u.scripts; foliis obcordatis muticis lobis rotundatis supra scabris utrinque ramulisque hirsutis, capitulis solitariis terminalibus sessilibus foliis parum longioribus, calycibus villosis laciniis subulatis appressis.)
A new species of Bossiaea which had the appearance of a rosemary bush, and differed from all the published kinds in having linear pungent leaves.*
(*Footnote. B. rosmarinifolia, Lindley ma.n.u.scripts; ramis teretibus villosis, foliis linearibus pungentibus margine revolutis supra glabris subtus pallidis pilosis, floribus solitariis axillaribus.)
A beautiful new and very distinct species of Genetyllis, possessing altogether the habit of a Cape Diosma, the heath-like branches being terminated by cl.u.s.ters of bright pink and white flowers.*
(*Footnote. G. alpestris, Lindley ma.n.u.scripts; ramulis piloso-hispidis, foliis linearibus tetragonis scabro-pilosis, capitulis sessilibus terminalibus nudis rachi lanata, tubo ovarii pentagono p.u.b.escente, sepalis petalis pluries brevioribus, stigmate glaberrimo.)
Several species of Grevillea, particularly a remarkable kind with leaves like those of a European holly, but downy.*
(*Footnote. G. aquifolium, Lindley ma.n.u.scripts propria; foliis oblongis extra medium incisis: lobis triangularibus apice spinosis; adultis super glabratis: subter mollibus p.u.b.escentibus, racemis pedunculatis, calycibus villosis, ovario hirsutissimo, stylo glabro.)
Another fine new species with leaves like those of a European oak.*
(*Footnote. G. variabilis, Lindley ma.n.u.scripts propria; incana, foliis cuneatis angulatis oblogisve basi cuneatis pinnatifidis sinuatis angulatisque subtus tomentosis lobis mucronatis triangularibus vel rotundatis, racemis tomentosis pedunculatis.)
And a third with brownish red flowers and h.o.a.ry leaves; varying from an erect straight-branched bush to a diffuse entangled shrub.*
(*Footnote. G. alpina, Lindley ma.n.u.scripts Ptychocarpa; foliis lineari-oblongis tomentosis muticis margine revolutis supra subtus pilis appressis sericeis, racemis paucifloris, pistillis basi hirsutissimis, calycibus ferrugineis tomentosis. alpha, ramis erectis, foliis longioribus angustioribus. beta, ramis diffusis intricatis, foliis brevioribus nunc mollibus nunc supra scabris.)
Lastly a new Leucopogon, besides that found on the summit as already mentioned.*
(*Footnote. L. rufus, Lindley ma.n.u.scripts; ramulis foliis que subtus p.u.b.escentibus, foliis ovatis ac.u.minatis apice spinosis erectis concavis supra laevigatis subtus striatis margine laevibus, floribus subsolitariis sessilibus axillaribus, barba corollae cinnamomea.)
ON THE APPLICATION OF NAMES.
In adding this n.o.ble range of mountains to my map I felt some difficulty in deciding on a name. To give appellations that may become current in the mouths of future generations has often been a perplexing subject with me, whether they have been required to distinguish new counties, towns, or villages, or such great natural features of the earth as mountains and rivers. I have always gladly adopted aboriginal names and, in the absence of these, I have endeavoured to find some good reason for the application of others, considering descriptive names the best, such being in general the character of those used by the natives of this and other countries.
Names of individuals seem eligible enough when at all connected with the history of the discovery or that of the nation by whom it was made. The capes on the coast I was then approaching were chiefly distinguished with the names of naval heroes and, as such capes were but subordinate points of the primitive range, I ventured to connect this summit with the name of the sovereign in whose reign the extensive, valuable, and interesting region below was first explored; and I confess it was not without some pride as a Briton that I more majorum* gave the name of the Grampians to these extreme summits of the southern hemisphere.
(*Footnote.
Procedo, et parvam Trojam, simulataque magnis Pergama, et arentem Xanthi cognomine rivum, Agnosco. Aen. lib 3.)
REPOSE IN THE VALLEY.
We reached the banks of the little river where the horses awaited us in three hours, the distance being eight miles from the summit of Mount William. There we found a large fire and, under a wide spreading casuarina during a delightful interval of about twenty minutes, I enjoyed the pleasures of eating, sleeping, resting, and warming myself, almost all at the same time. To all who would know how to enjoy most intensely a good fire, shelter, sunshine, and the dry soft turf I would recommend, by way of whet, a winter night on a lofty mountain, without fire, amidst frost-covered rocks and clouds of sleet. I shall long remember the pleasure of those moments of repose which I enjoyed on my arrival in the warm valley after such a night. We could afford no longer delay however, having brought provisions only for one day with us, whereas this was the morning of the third of our absence from the camp. Retracing our steps we reached the little river only at eight in the evening and, as I hoped to find a ford in it at daylight, we lay down on its bank for the night.
NIGHT"S REST.
July 16.
I slept on a snug bit of turf within two feet of the stream; so that the welcome murmur of its rippling waters a.s.sisted my dreams of undiscovered rivers. As soon as morning dawned I succeeded in finding a ford on that branch across which we swam our horses on the 13th. We thus met with less cause of delay and reached the camp at an early hour, with excellent appet.i.tes for breakfast.
NATIVES AT THE CAMP DURING MY ABSENCE.
Two natives had visited the party during my absence and had slept by the fires. They had been at cattle stations and could say "milk." They consequently approached our camp boldly, and during the night showed much restlessness, endeavouring to decoy the gins away with them. But The Widow gave the alarm, and very properly handed over these insidious wooers to the especial surveillance of the man on duty. Notwithstanding they were vigilantly watched they contrived to steal a tomahawk, and went off leaving their wooden shovels at our camp, saying they should return.
I had now several men on the sicklist, but under the treatment of Drysdale, our medical attendant, they speedily recovered.
CHAPTER 3.9.
Plains of stiff clay.
The Wimmera.
Difficult pa.s.sage of its five branches.
Ascend Mount Zero.
Circular lake, brackish water.
The Wimmera in a united channel.
Lose this river.
Ascend Mount Arapiles.
Mr. Stapylton"s excursion northward.
Salt lakes.
Green Hill lake.