A HUMMUS RECIPE.

SERVES 4.

TIME: 10 MINUTES , PLUS CHILL TIME.

Hummus is to vegetarians and vegans what air is to the rest of humanity. Or at least for most of us living in New York City, this ubiquitous chickpea puree can be found at most any party, appetizer spread, tucked in a sandwich, or neatly stowed away in a little plastic container (alongside some pita and carrot sticks) for a light, portable lunch or snack at one"s desk.

Serve with practically any kind of bread or crisp vegetable. We especially love it paired with Sweet Basil Pesto Tapenade (page 65) and an a.s.sortment of breads and raw vegetables, for an exquisite summertime meal. Try one of the flavor variations for something different and fun. Be sure to try some "hummus for bagels" (just thick enough for shmearing) if you"ve never heard of such a combination before!

For convenience and speed, using canned chickpeas is the way to go, but for really smooth, fresh-tasting hummus, home-cooked beans can"t be beat. Check out the bean-cooking guide (page 43) for directions for preparing chickpeas from dried beans.

THE secret to really creamy hummus is to make it in a blender. It takes a little more work than using a food processor does, but the results are a smoother puree that resembles the good stuff served in Middle Eastern restaurants. Usually we find it helps to add more liquid (by the tablespoon), so take frequent breaks when blending to add a little more liquid and push the hummus around with a rubber spatula each time that you do. The break also allows you to taste and adjust the lemon juice, garlic, and salt as you prepare the hummus.

2 (15-ounce) cans chickpeas, drained and rinsed

cup olive oil

cup fresh lemon juice

3 tablespoons sesame tahini

2-3 cloves garlic, crushed

cup water, more or less for desired thickness

Pinch of ground c.u.min or ground coriander (optional)

Salt and pepper

Paprika (preferably Hungarian smoked paprika, if you can find it)

PLACE half the chickpeas and olive oil in a blender or food processor. Pulse several times, stopping to stir with a rubber spatula. When the mixture is almost pureed and creamy, add the remaining chickpeas and oil, lemon juice, tahini, garlic, c.u.min, and a little salt. Pulse, stopping to stir several times, until the mixture is very creamy. Season with salt and pepper; add more lemon juice to taste if necessary.

Transfer to an airtight container and chill for 30 minutes before serving.

To serve: Spread into a shallow bowl, dust with paprika, and drizzle a tablespoon of olive oil on top.

Serve with pita, crackers, crostini, vegetable crudites, etc.

Variations: Fold in after pureeing to 1 cup of the following: caramelized onions or shallots, roasted garlic, roasted carrots, roasted beets, roasted red peppers.

Herbed Hummus: Add 2 to 3 tablespoons of the following: chopped fresh dill, fresh parsley.

Olive Hummus: Add cup black or green olives and pulse in after pureeing.

Hummus for Bagels HERE in NYC we love our bagels, but a longtime dilemma for vegans has been what to put on them. Sometimes tofu cream cheese is just too heavy, too fake-tasting, or just not available, so hummus has been a traditional standby. Along with a thin slice of tomato and onion, a zesty shmear of hummus is often just what a sesame or "everything" bagel really craves.

If making hummus just for bagels, a thicker consistency is desired. Reduce the olive oil to cup, up the tahini to cup, and cut the garlic down to just 1 clove. Omit the water or use just a few tablespoons. This hummus should be easily spreadable with a knife and not "wet" in texture; the grainier consistency lends itself better to spreading on to your bagel in thick layers.

LOWER-FAT CAULIFLOWER HUMMUS.

MAKES ABOUT 4 CUPS.

TIME: 30 MINUTES, PLUS CHILL TIME.

Cauliflower joins forces with chickpeas in this low-fat, high-fiber version of hummus. If you"ve ever watched a movie while mindlessly munching on a few veggies and hummus and then rued the day after realizing just how much fat and calories you consumed, this is a great alternative.

1 smallish head cauliflower (2 pounds or so),

chopped into largish pieces

2-3 cloves garlic, chopped

1 cups cooked chickpeas, washed and drained,

cooking liquid reserved

2 tablespoons tahini

1 tablespoon olive oil

cup chopped scallions

cup loosely packed fresh parsley

teaspoon salt

2 teaspoons ground c.u.min

teaspoon paprika

2-3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

3 tablespoons or so reserved chickpea cooking liquid

BRING A pot of water to a boil. Add the cauliflower and cover. Boil for 12 to 15 minutes, until you can easily pierce it with a fork.

Drain and let cool just a bit, then place in a food processor or blender while still warm and puree a bit (a food processor works best; a cheap blender might not work unless you chop the cauliflower smaller and add some of the liquid ingredients).

Add the remaining ingredients and puree until relatively smooth. Taste and adjust the ingredients if necessary; you may want to add more c.u.min, salt, or lemon juice. Use the reserved cooking liquid to thin the hummus if you need to (we usually need to).

Transfer to a container, cover, and chill for about an hour. Serve cold with veggies and pita.

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