Dye silk blue in Indigo Vat. Then dye without mordanting in Cudbear.
(8) ORANGE (1 lb.)
Mordant with Alum Acetate. Dye with 1/2 lb. Madder, 2 ozs. Flavin and 1 oz. tin.
Enter the tin first in a cold bath. Mix Flavin and Madder into a paste and add to the bath. Bring to the boil slowly, boil for 10 minutes.
Wash in soap.
(9) BLACK (1 lb.)
Mordant with Alum Acetate. Dye with 6 ozs. logwood, 3/4 oz. flavin, 1 oz. Iron. Mix all together and boil for 1/2 hour. Wash thoroughly.
(10) BLACK
(1) Mordant with basic ferric sulphate and after allowing the silk to lie for some time, wash well and soap at 90C.
(2) Dye with 50 per cent Fustic, 10 per cent Ferrous Sulphate and 2 per cent Copper Acetate.
(3) Dye with logwood 50 per cent and soap.
(11) GREY WITH BRACKEN (1 lb.)
Mordant with 1 oz. Iron and 2 ozs. Cream of Tartar. Boil a quant.i.ty of young bracken tips for 1/2 hour. Strain. Boil silk in the decoction for about an hour.
(12) BROWN WITH LICHEN (1 lb.)
Mordant with Alum Acetate. Put into the dye bath the quant.i.ty of lichen according to required colour with about a teaspoonful of Acetic Acid. Boil from 1 to 3 hours.
(13) ORANGE (1 lb.)
1 oz. tin, 1/2 oz. Oxalic Acid, 2 oz. Flavin. Enter silk and boil for 1 hour. Remove silk and add to the bath 1 oz. tin, 1 oz. Oxalic, 2 oz.
Cochineal. Boil for 1 hour or more.
(14) BLACK (1 lb.)
Mordant with 2 oz. logwood extract, 1-1/4 oz. fustic extract, 1-1/4 oz. iron, 1/2 oz. copper sulphate. Boil for 1 hour. Take out and rinse. To the same bath add 1-3/4 oz. logwood extract, 1 oz. fustic extract, 7 oz. madder. Enter silk and boil for 1 hour. Wash in soap.
(15) YELLOW (1 lb.)
Mordant with 1 oz. Bichromate of Potash. Boil 1 hour. In a separate bath put 1 lb. weld and boil for 1 hour.
(16) RED (1 lb.)
Mordant with 1-3/4 oz. tin and 1-3/4 oz. oxalic acid. Boil for 1 hour.
Then add 3/4 lb. cochineal and 6 oz. madder. Boil well and wash in soap.
(17) BROWN (1 lb.)
Mordant with 1 oz. Copper sulphate. Boil for 1 hour. Take out silk and add 2-1/2 oz. madder, 1 oz. fustic chips, and boil for 1 hour.
(18) RED (1 lb.)
Dissolve 1 oz. Tannic Acid in hot water. Enter silk and leave for 24 hours, stirring occasionally. Rinse well in two waters. In a fresh bath, put 4 oz. cochineal. Enter silk. Bring to boil and let blue colour develop. Lift, and add 1 oz. cochineal & 1 oz. tin. Re-enter silk & boil well. Wash in soap.
GLOSSARY
_Adjective Dyes._ Dyes which require mordant.
_Alizarin._ The chief colouring principle of madder. It is also the name for an extensive series of chemical colours produced from anthracene, one of the coal tar hydrocarbons discovered in 1868.
_Aniline._ Discovered 1826 (_anil. Span. indigo_). First prepared from indigo by means of caustic potash, found in coal, 1834. Manufactured on a large scale after Perkin"s discovery of mauve in 1856.
_Annatta._ (Annotto, Arnotto, Roucou.) A dye obtained from the pulp surrounding the seeds of the _Bixa orellana_; chiefly used in dyeing silk an orange colour, but is of a fugitive nature.
_Argol._ The tartar deposited from wines completely fermented, and adhering to the sides of casks as a hard crust. When purified it becomes Cream of Tartar.
_Beck._ A large vessel or tub used in dyeing.
_Bois jaune._ Fustic, yellow wood.
_Carthamus._ Safflower, an annual plant cultivated in South Europe, Egypt and Asia, for the red dye from its flowers.
_Caustic Soda._ Carbonate of soda, boiled with lime.
_Coal Tar Colours._ Colours obtained by distillation and chemical treatment from coal tar, a product of coal during the making of gas.
There are over 2,000 colours in use.
_Detergent._ A cleansing agent.
_Dip._ Generally applied to immersing cloth, etc., in the blue vat.
_Divi-Divi._ The dried pods of _Caesalpina coriaria_ growing in the West Indies and S. America; they contain 20 to 35% tannin and a brown colouring matter.
_Dyer"s Spirit._ Aqua fortis, 10 parts; sal ammoniac, 5 parts; tin, 2 parts; dissolved together.
_Enter._ To enter wool, to put it into the dye or mordant liquor.
_Fenugrec._ Fenugreek _Trigonnella faenugraec.u.m_.
_Flavin._ A colouring matter extracted from Quercitron.
_Full, to._ To treat or beat cloth for the purpose of cleansing and thickening it.
_Fuller"s herb._ _Saponaria officinalis._ A plant used in the process of fulling.