PROCEDURE IN FREEZING DESSERTS
63. The preparation of frozen desserts is comparatively simple in nature, for it usually involves nothing except the cooking of the raw ingredients and the proper combining of the materials required in the recipe. Sometimes a custard mixture containing starch is prepared, and other times a real custard is made. The same rules that apply to the preparation of these dishes under other conditions should be followed here. As the housewife is already familiar with these principles, she will find that there is very little to master about the preparation of frozen desserts up to the time of freezing. A point that should always be remembered, however, is that the mixture should be prepared long enough before the freezing to be entirely cold when it is put into the freezer, and that, if possible, it should be cooled in a refrigerator.
No trouble will be experienced in preparing enough frozen dessert for the number that are to be served if it is remembered that 1 quart of unfrozen mixture will serve six to eight persons when it is frozen.
64. FREEZING THE MIXTURE.--With the preparation of the mixture well understood, the housewife should turn her attention to the principles that are involved in its freezing. As has been explained, a can that has a cover and a bail may sometimes be used, especially if the dessert does not need turning, but a freezer is necessary for good results in the preparation of a frozen dessert that requires turning. In the case of those that need no turning, such as mousses, parfaits, etc., a mold of some kind or a vacuum freezer is required.
The usual type of freezer consists of a pail, generally wooden, and a can of smaller size that sets inside of the pail. The s.p.a.ce between the can and the pail is where the ice and salt that freeze the mixture are packed. The can, which is the container for the mixture, contains a removable dasher that is turned during the freezing and thus beats air into the mixture. It is covered with a top that has an opening in the center through which one end of the dasher extends, and a ring of cogs surrounding this opening. For the entire freezer there is a top piece that fastens to both sides of the wooden bucket. It contains a set of cogs that fit into the cogs on the cover of the can. To one side of this piece is attached a crank, which, upon being turned, moves both the can containing the mixture and the dasher inside the can.
65. The first thing to be done in the freezing of any dessert is to get the ice ready for use. This may be done in numerous ways, but perhaps the most convenient one is shown in Fig. 7. A bag made of a heavy material, such as canvas or ticking, and wooden mallet are used for this purpose. Place the ice in the bag and, as here shown, hold the bag shut with one hand and pound it with the mallet held in the other. Continue the pounding until the ice is broken into small pieces, and then empty it into a dishpan or some other large pan. After the proportion of salt to ice has been decided upon, mix the salt with the ice in the manner shown in Fig. 8.
[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 7]
[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 8]
[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 9]
[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 10]
66. Before the freezer is used, scald the can and the dasher thoroughly with boiling water as shown in Fig. 9, and then set them aside to cool.
When entirely cold, fit the can into the freezer, and then, as shown in Fig. 10, pour the mixture into the can. Remember that the mixture should come to within only one-third or one-fourth of the top of the can. With the cover placed securely on the can and the top of the freezer attached, proceed to pack the ice and salt into the freezer. As shown in Fig. 11, fill the s.p.a.ce between the can and the container with these materials, using a large spoon for this purpose. Work them down around the can with the small end of a potato masher or similar implement, as in Fig. 12, packing the freezer as tightly as possible and making sure that the ice comes higher than the surface of the mixture inside of the can.
When the packing has been finished, see that the top is securely attached and that the hole in the side of the freezer is well stopped up. Then proceed to freeze the cream. Turn the crank slowly, for nothing is gained by turning the mixture rapidly at the temperature at which it is put into the freezer. After the temperature has been reduced considerably, and just as the mixture begins to thicken a trifle, start turning the crank more rapidly. The air incorporated just at this time by the turning of the dasher increases the volume considerably, for it will remain held in the mixture.
[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 11]
[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 12]
67. PACKING THE MIXTURE.--If the frozen dessert is to be served at once, turn the crank until it is difficult to turn any longer. However, in case the dessert is not to be used as soon as it is made, it should be frozen only moderately hard and then packed and allowed to freeze more.
During this second freezing process, a condition occurs that is known as _ripening_ and that improves the quality as well as the flavor of the dessert. After the freezing has been carried on to the desired degree, unfasten the top of the freezer, wipe the can thoroughly around the top with a cloth to make sure that all salt and ice are removed, and then remove the cover. Proceed at once to lift out the dasher and to sc.r.a.pe it clean with a knife or a spoon, as shown in Fig. 13. Push down the frozen dessert in the can carefully and tightly with the aid of a spoon.
To prepare it for packing, stretch a piece of waxed paper over the top of the can, replace the cover, and fit a cork into the hole in the cover through which the top of the dasher extends, as Fig. 14 shows. With this done, remove the stopper from the hole in the side of the freezer and, as Fig. 15 shows, run off the brine that has formed by the melting of the ice. Then repack the freezer with a mixture of ice and salt in the proportion of 2 to 1 and set aside until needed.
[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 13]
[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 14]
[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 15]
68. USING A VACUUM FREEZER.--There are some frozen desserts that do not necessarily require the incorporation of air by means of a dasher to be satisfactory. For desserts of this kind, a vacuum freezer, that is, one that requires no turning, may be used.
In such a freezer a container extends down through the center of the can and is surrounded by an air s.p.a.ce. The mixture to be frozen is poured into this container from the top and the ice-and-salt mixture that does the freezing is put in from the bottom and takes up the air s.p.a.ce.
Covers fasten securely both the top and the bottom. A handle attached to one side makes the handling of such a freezer an easy matter.
By many, a freezer of this kind is considered a decided advantage over the usual variety of freezer, for it requires no turning, but there are certain disadvantages about its use that should be understood before one is secured. In the first place, the expansion that is produced in the mixture by the incorporation of air when an ordinary freezer is used does not occur in a vacuum freezer. Also, the texture of the finished product is not, as a rule, equal to that of the dessert made in a freezer turned with a dasher. In addition, it is necessary to crack the ice somewhat finer for a vacuum freezer and to mix it thoroughly with the correct proportion of salt required for the particular kind of mixture frozen.
[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 16]
[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 17]
[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 18]
69. When a vacuum freezer is to be used, turn it upside down and insert the ice-and-salt mixture through the opening in the bottom. Then close it tight, turn it right side up, and with the top open, pour in the mixture as shown in Fig, 16. Screw the top on tightly in the manner shown in Fig. 17, just as the bottom is screwed on, and set the freezer aside. After the mixture has stood for about 15 minutes, open the freezer from the top and stir the contents down from the sides with a knife or a spoon, as in Fig. 18. Then replace the cover and allow the freezing to continue for 10 minutes more. At the end of this time, open the freezer again, repeat the stirring, refasten the cover, and continue the freezing for another 5 minutes. The mixture should then be ready to serve.
RECIPES FOR FROZEN DESSERTS
ICE CREAMS
70. PHILADELPHIA ICE CREAM.--Perhaps the simplest of frozen desserts to make is Philadelphia ice cream, but it requires cream in order that its texture be good. For this reason, it is not so economical as some of those which are a trifle more complicated to prepare. It consists of cream sweetened, flavored, and then frozen. This is a particularly attractive way in which to make ice cream when strawberries, red raspberries, or peaches are in season, as these fresh fruits may be crushed and added to the cream, instead of plain flavoring.
The recipe here given for the preparation of Philadelphia ice cream contains vanilla as the flavoring, but fresh fruit of any desirable kind may be added, this recipe being used merely as a basis. Usually 1 1/2 cupfuls of crushed fruit is required for a quart of cream. It is necessary, however, to vary the quant.i.ty of sugar with the nature of the fruit used. For instance, if fresh strawberries are used, more sugar will be required than if canned ones are used, because sugar has already been added to these. The best plan is to test the mixture before freezing it, remembering always that more sugar is required for a frozen dessert than would be necessary if the mixture were not to be frozen.
PHILADELPHIA ICE CREAM (Sufficient to Serve Six)
1 qt. cream 1 Tb. vanilla 1 c. sugar
Scald the cream in a double boiler, add the sugar and the vanilla, and cool. If desired, add 1 1/2 cupfuls of crushed fruit. If pineapple is used, it may be grated or shredded instead of being crushed. Place in a freezer and freeze according to the directions previously given.
71. VANILLA ICE CREAM.--Plain ice cream is usually made from ingredients that are somewhat cheaper than those used to make Philadelphia ice cream. It consists usually of a custard foundation, to which are added flavoring, sometimes fruit, and usually thin cream. The custard foundation is often made with corn starch and a small amount of raw egg. The same rules must be observed in the preparation of this foundation for ice cream as have been learned in the making of custards.
Frequently some starchy material, such as flour or corn starch, is used for thickening in the preparation of this dessert. Some persons prefer flour, as they believe that the presence of flour cannot be detected so easily as that of corn starch; however, a recipe using each is given.
The mixtures used for this ice cream should not be boiled, but cooked in a double boiler. If desired, fruits, either cooked or raw, or nuts may be added to the ice cream for variety.
VANILLA ICE CREAM No. 1 (Sufficient to Serve Six)
4 Tb. flour 1 c. sugar 1/4 tsp. salt 4 c. milk 2 c. thin cream 2 eggs 2 Tb. vanilla
Mix the flour, sugar, and salt with sufficient cold liquid to moisten well. Add this to the remainder of the milk and the cream heated in a double boiler. Stir until thickened, and cook for about 20 minutes. Beat the eggs and add slowly to the mixture, stirring rapidly to prevent curding. Cook until the egg has thickened, strain, add the vanilla, cool, and freeze.
VANILLA ICE CREAM No. 2 (Sufficient to Serve Six)
1 qt. milk 3 Tb. corn starch 1-1/2 c. sugar 2 eggs 1 pt. cream 1 Tb. vanilla
Scald the milk and stir into it the corn starch mixed with half the sugar. Stir constantly until thickened, and cook for 15 to 20 minutes.
Beat the eggs, add the remaining sugar, mix with a little of the hot mixture, and stir into the double boiler. Remove from the heat, add the cream, strain, cool, add the flavoring, and freeze.
72. CHOCOLATE ICE CREAM.--Next to vanilla ice cream, chocolate seems to be the most desired. Some persons think this variety is difficult to make, but if the accompanying directions are carefully followed, no difficulty will be experienced and a delicious dessert will be the result.
CHOCOLATE ICE CREAM (Sufficient to Serve Six)
2 c. sugar 1/2 tsp. salt 1/2 c. water 4 Tb. flour 3 sq. melted chocolate 2 eggs 5 c. milk 4 tsp. vanilla 2 c. thin cream
Mix the sugar and water and cook until a sirup forms. Add this to the melted chocolate and cook together until the two are well blended. Add this mixture to the heated milk and cream, which have been seasoned with the salt and thickened with the flour. Beat the eggs and add to the hot mixture, stirring rapidly to prevent curding. Remove from the heat, cool, add the vanilla, strain, and freeze.
73. MOCHA ICE CREAM.--As the flavor of coffee is usually well liked, Mocha ice cream, which has coffee for its flavoring, is a dessert that often finds a place in the meal. It is especially nice to serve in the hot weather when hot coffee is omitted from the meal.
MOCHA ICE CREAM (Sufficient to Serve Six)
1 c. water 1-1/4 c. sugar 1/3 3 c. ground coffee 1/4 tsp. salt 1-1/2 c. milk 1 qt. cream 2 eggs 1 tsp. vanilla