ARAB POLITENESS.
A thing that strikes one about the Arabs is their politeness and readiness to do good turns.
Every Arab we met as we tramped across the plains greeted us with "good morning" in Arabic or French, and, though it must be a strange sight to them to see a white lady walking, and a man in shorts and shirt-sleeves (for I always wear the Scout kit for camping), they never showed undue curiosity, and never thought of jeering at us as I fear would be the case in many places in England.
[Ill.u.s.tration: AN ARAB TENT. The goatskin slung on a tripod is full of water for the use of the family.]
If they saw our mules in trouble, or found us pitching our camp, they were always ready to lend a hand without any idea of getting a reward or a tip for doing so.
They have a good deal of the Scout in them, and many tribes of them do not know what it is to live in a house-they are "nomads," that is, they are wanderers, and live always in tents, moving with their flocks and families from place to place where the gra.s.s gives the best pasture for their sheep and goats.
Their tents are large, low, widespread awnings of black or brown goats"-hair cloth, supported on numerous short poles.
The tent ropes stretch in various directions, and round the whole they put up a hedge or "zareeba" of thorn bushes to keep out the jackals, and to keep in their goats during the night.
In front of the tent hangs a goatskin slung on a tripod, and full of water for the use of the family.
Many Arabs are well behaved and hospitable to strangers. But all are not so polite: there are some tribes who are pretty cunning thieves.
Our two Arabs always patrolled round our camp at night with loaded rifle and revolver to drive off any would-be robbers, and our mules were shackled up at night with "handcuffs" on their fetlocks, and these were locked to prevent them being stolen.
THE HOT SPRINGS OF HAMMAM MOUSKETINE.
The first thing one notices about the hot springs of Hammam Mousketine which I mentioned above, is clouds of steam coming up out of the bushes at different points. Here you will find water bubbling up out of the ground and through a small mound of hard white or yellow crust.
The water is boiling hot, and the crust is formed from salts and chemicals contained in the water drying on the surface.
There are about a dozen of these springs and a large number of cones or mounds which have been springs, and which have choked themselves up or run dry.
Half a dozen of these cones, of about ten feet high, stand together in a group, and the Arabs have a curious story about them, which I will tell you in the next paragraph. Also close by is a great waterfall about a hundred yards wide by fifty feet high, but all turned to stone by the same process.
THE ARAB MARRIAGE.
A rich Arab named Ali Ca.s.sam had a beautiful sister named Ourida.
Ali thought her the best woman in the world, and although she was his sister he determined to marry her.
Such a marriage is considered just as unholy by the Mohammedans as it is with us, and so everybody was against it. But Ali was great and powerful, and he thought that by making a magnificent show of it he would get over the feelings of those who said it was wrong.
[Ill.u.s.tration: The wedding party were all there in their places, but all were turned into stone.]
So a splendid feast was arranged, and the ceremony began on a very big scale.
The priest Abdallah undertook to carry out the religious part of it, and had just taken the first step in the marriage service of placing the bridegroom"s hand on the bride"s head when there was a tremendous flash of lightning, fire rushed out of the earth, the day was suddenly turned into night, and boiling water spouted up in all directions.
When the sun came out again the wedding party were all there in their places, but all were turned into stone, and the boiling water still bubbles up out of the earth round about them.
Personally I could not recognise exactly the actors in this drama; it needed a lot of imagination to believe that one mound represented Ali and another Ourida, while Abdallah was recognisable by his turban!
This was all that I saw of them.
A GOOD TURN TO A DONKEY.
Owing to the absence of roads in the country the Arabs do not use carts. All the carrying is done by camels, mules, or donkeys. The donkeys are the commonest, being the cheapest; and very patient, hard-working little servants they are.
On one of our tramps we came across an Arab standing very forlornly by his donkey, which had fallen down. There was the little beast lying on its side with its huge load of halfa gra.s.s partly across it, and the owner quite at a loss to know what to do. This "halfa" or "esparto"
gra.s.s is collected by the Arabs on the mountain side, and brought down and sold to merchants to go and make paper in England. It weighs very heavy, which we soon found when we went to the a.s.sistance of the Arab, and lifted the load off the donkey. The little animal seemed in no hurry to rise from his comfortable position on the ground, and the Arab was proceeding with a big stick to hint to him that it was time to get up, when my wife intervened, and showed the Arab that this was no way to treat the good little beast.
[Ill.u.s.tration: 1. IN DISTRESS.]
Having induced him at last to rise, the load of gra.s.s was up-ended, the donkey put broadside on to it, and the burden was quickly hoisted on to its back again.
[Ill.u.s.tration: 2. ALL HANDS TO THE RESCUE.]
So we had been able to do a little good turn to the man, though the donkey did not probably appreciate it quite so much at first, but he did in the end, for as soon as his load was securely on his back the man started to whack him on along his road.
But again my wife put in a remonstrance, and the Arab, grasping her meaning, refrained from using his stick, and coming back to us he gave us each a hearty handshake, as if to show his grat.i.tude for our help and his determination to treat his four-footed friend with greater kindness in the future.
[Ill.u.s.tration: 3. ALL PLEASED EXCEPT THE DONKEY.]
A CAMP INVENTION.
We were awfully sorry to finish our tramping camp. It was over much too soon, but in the short time that we were at it we picked up lots of health and enjoyment, and also a good many useful camp hints.
[Ill.u.s.tration: WHENEVER WE HAD A MOMENT TO SPARE SHE SET TO WORK TO SCRUB THE SAUCEPAN.]
One of these--like so many great discoveries--was found by accident.
My wife, like a good Scout, kept everything very clean in camp, and our joke was that whenever there was a moment to spare she would set to work to scrub the saucepan. That seemed to be her favourite job, using a handful of sand and a twist of coa.r.s.e gra.s.s, and the result was a bright, clean saucepan in which to cook our food.
A good deal of sickness comes in camps when dirty saucepans are used.
When she was not cleaning the saucepan her other spare minutes were spent in cleaning up the camp ground, and burning all sc.r.a.ps.
One morning when doing this she made the great discovery. It was this--how to make toast without a good fire. She had wrapped some unused slices of bread in some waste paper, and put the whole lot among the ashes of our palm-leaf fire in order to burn them.
The paper gradually charred and burnt itself away, and left the bread behind it nicely roasted into crisp brown toast!