_Cross the railway (l. c.) and then go on to_ =Houthulst Forest=, captured by the Germans in 1914, and retaken in 1918 (see p. 46). In June, 1919, the roads through the forest were impracticable for motor-cars.
_Return to the fork at the entrance to Langemarck, turn to the right, and take the road to Boesinghe, crossing the Hanebeek. The road follows the Ypres-Thourout railway_, on both sides of which are numerous redoubts. _Cross the ruins of Pilkem_, 300 yards beyond, which is a rather large British cemetery.
_At the next fork in the road turn to the right and cross the railway (l. c.)._ On the left is another cemetery. _Turn again to the left_.
Notice in pa.s.sing a third cemetery, then a few yards further on the ruins of a mill. _Cross the ca.n.a.l at the Pont de Boesinghe_.
_On reaching the crossing of the main road from Dixmude to Ypres, turn to the right._ On the left, the remains of Boesinghe Chateau stand in the middle of a park, the trees of which are cut to pieces.
[Ill.u.s.tration: LANGEMARCK, WITH DESTROYED TANK. THE MOUND IN THE MIDDLE DISTANCE IS ALL THAT REMAINS OF THE CHURCH]
[Ill.u.s.tration: LANGEMARCK CHaTEAU BEFORE THE WAR _Now razed to the ground_ (_photo, Antony, Ypres_).]
_Follow the road running along the ca.n.a.l._ The latter, owing to the upheaval of the ground by sh.e.l.l-fire, is often lost to view. 1,500 yards from Boesinghe, the site of Het Sas village, where the lock used to stand, may still be located. The fighting was very severe there, especially in 1914.
[Ill.u.s.tration: BOESINGHE. RUINED CHaTEAU AND DEVASTATED PARK]
[Ill.u.s.tration: ENTRANCE TO YPRES. YPRES Ca.n.a.l AT BOESINGHE, SEEN FROM RUE DE DIXMUDE, YPRES (_Compare with view below, taken before the War_.)]
_Return to Boesinghe, leave the road just taken on the left, and cross the railway (l. c.)._
The road runs alongside the Yperlee river and ca.n.a.l for some distance.
Numerous traces of footbridges are to be seen over both river and ca.n.a.l, the course of which can no longer be distinguished with certainty.
_The road next turns sharply to the left, crosses the Lys-Yperlee Ca.n.a.l, then pa.s.ses the dock of the Yser-Ypres Ca.n.a.l_ (photo above), _and enters_ =Ypres= _by the Dixmude Gate_.
[Ill.u.s.tration: ENTRANCE TO YPRES BEFORE THE WAR (_See above--photo, Antony, Ypres_.)]
[Ill.u.s.tration: GENERAL VIEW OF YPRES, BEFORE THE WAR (_photo, Antony, Ypres_)]
=YPRES=
Few names awaken more memories than that of Ypres--a city of incomparable splendour in the Middle Ages, and of which nothing now remains but a heap of ruins. Of the last precious traces of this ancient prosperity, the rich and splendid buildings which filled the mind with wonder--the immense Cloth Hall, the beautiful cathedral, the churches, the sumptuous mansions, the sculptured houses--the German guns have spared nothing. History furnishes few examples of such grandeur followed by destruction so swift and so complete. Ypres is now but a memory.
=Chief Historical Events=
The Town of Ypres (Latin Ypra, Flemish Ieperen) grew up in the 10th century around a fortified castle, rebuilt about 958 by Baudoin, Count of Flanders. This castle had been in existence since the 8th century, but only the ruins had survived Norman invasions.
The town, favourably situated in the centre of the maritime plain with its rich gra.s.sy meadows intersected by ca.n.a.ls, prospered exceedingly. A numerous population sprang up of merchants and artisans, whose chief sources of wealth were the manufacture and sale of cloth.
As early as the 12th, but especially in the 13th and 14th centuries, Ypres, thanks to important privileges granted by the Counts of Flanders, became a considerable town, and possessed 4,000 looms.
Flanders, the meeting-point of the three great European states--England, France and Germany--was then the industrial centre _par excellence_ of the west and the rendezvous of all the merchants of the old world. This explains the splendour of the towns of Flanders in the Middle Ages, not only Ypres, but Bruges, Ghent, etc.
This prosperity was often a temptation to the Kings of France, who led many an expedition into Flanders. Ypres was taken by Louis VI. in 1128, by Philippe-Auguste in 1213, by Philippe-le-Bel in 1297, but the town was little damaged in these wars.
It suffered more in the 14th century. Riots, and the siege and destruction of the town by the people of Ghent in 1383, caused many of the weavers to emigrate, and left as its only industry the manufacture of Valenciennes lace. At that time the Counts of Flanders were French princes. Robert de Bethune was succeeded in 1322 by the Count of Nevers, whose family reigned until 1384. This dynasty ended with Louis-le-Male, and Philippe-le-Hardi, Duke of Burgundy, became Count of Flanders. Under the rule of these Dukes, who were fairly wise and moderate statesmen--Flanders being a source of considerable revenue, and the Flemish people quick to revolt against any violation of their privileges--Ypres prospered greatly.
[Ill.u.s.tration: YPRES IN THE 16TH CENTURY]
In 1481 Flanders pa.s.sed under the rule of Austria (Marie, heiress of Burgundy, had married the Archduke Maximilian), then in 1558 under that of Spain. In 1559 it replaced Therouanne as the centre of the diocese.
At that time it had lost much of its splendour. Towards the end of the 15th century it was depopulated by a dreadful pestilence, and about the middle of the following century, a second outbreak completed the ruin of the town. It was just beginning to recover when it was captured by the _Gueux_ and the troops of the Duc d"Albe and Alexandre Farnese, who ma.s.sacred most of the inhabitants.
In the 17th century Ypres was taken by the French on four occasions--1648, 1649, 1658 and 1678--finally reverting to France under the Treaty of Nimegue at about the latter date. Vauban fortified it.
Retaken by the Imperial Troops in 1715, Ypres was restored to France in 1792, and under the Empire became the capital of the Departement of Lys.
The treaties of 1815 gave it back to the Netherlands, and since 1830 it has formed part of the Kingdom of Belgium.
[Ill.u.s.tration: GERMAN BOMBARDMENT OF THE ASYLUM]
In 1914 the population numbered 18,000. Its princ.i.p.al industries were the manufacture of woollen goods, printed cottons, linens, ribbons, and Valenciennes lace. Its tanneries and dye works were also of considerable importance. It was a clean, well-built town, watered by the river Yperlee. The many arms of the latter ran through the streets of the town, enabling the boats loaded with merchandise to come right up to the warehouses.
These waterways are now covered in. Formerly there was a path on each side of them, which explains the exceptional width of the streets and squares of Ypres.
[Ill.u.s.tration]
=YPRES=
=A Visit to the Ruins=
_The tourist enters Ypres by the Dixmude Gate._
At No. 54 Rue de Dixmude is the facade of the Maison Biebuygk, on the right. Built in 1544, this house was one of the most remarkable in Ypres. Immediately below the gable were two carved medallions representing the sun and the moon. The great pointed arch which framed the gable windows gave exceptional grace to the facade (photos, p. 73).
At No. 66 of the same street, on the left, the 18th century facade shown in the photographs (p. 74), was still standing in July, 1919. It was decorated with statues of the Virgin Mary and St. Francois, under fluted niches with carved borders.
[Ill.u.s.tration: BIEBUYGK HOUSE (_No_. 54, _Rue de Dixmude_), BEFORE THE WAR. IT WAS ONE OF THE HANDSOMEST HOUSES IN YPRES (_photo, Antony, Ypres_)]
[Ill.u.s.tration: BIEBUYGK HOUSE, AS THE WAR LEFT IT]
[Ill.u.s.tration: ST. FRANcOIS SCHOOL, RUE DE DIXMUDE, BEFORE THE WAR (_Photo, Antony, Ypres_.)]
[Ill.u.s.tration: ST. FRANcOIS SCHOOL, AFTER THE GERMAN BOMBARDMENTS]
[Ill.u.s.tration: YPRES. THE GRANDE PLACE ON MARKET-DAY, BEFORE THE WAR (_See below. Photo, Antony, Ypres_.)]
Arriving at the Grande Place, the imposing ruins of the =Nieuwerk= and the =Cloth Hall= are seen on the right.
[Ill.u.s.tration: WHAT THE GERMAN Sh.e.l.lS LEFT OF IT (_see above_)]