A briefe discription of New England and the severall townes therein.
by Samuel Maverick.
PREFACE.
BY JOHN WARD DEAN.
The Committee on English Research of the New England Historic Genealogical Society called attention in their last annual report to the fact that there were in England many important doc.u.ments relating to the American colonies, as well as ma.n.u.script maps. .h.i.therto unknown to historical investigators. They urged upon the society the desirability of having exact copies of them made now while we have in Mr. Henry Fitz-Gilbert Waters an experienced American antiquary resident in London. This statement has been most strikingly verified by the recent discovery by Mr. Waters of the Winthrop map--one of the most valuable contributions yet made to our early colonial history--notices of which appeared in the Proceedings of the Ma.s.sachusetts Historical Society for June, 1884, and in the REGISTER for July, 1884 (x.x.xviii. 342).
The ma.n.u.script "Description of New England," which is here printed, is a still more important discovery. Though it bears neither name nor date, there is internal evidence that it was written in the year 1660, after the return of Charles II., by Samuel Maverick, afterwards one of the king"s commissioners. Maverick, when Winthrop and his company arrived, was settled at Noddle"s Island, now East Boston, and was known to have been here some years before. The date of his arrival in New England has. .h.i.therto been unknown. This ma.n.u.script gives it as 1624. Maverick was then about twenty-two years old.
An account of New England by one of the first white men who ever settled on the sh.o.r.es of Ma.s.sachusetts Bay, one of the "old planters" whom Gov.
Winthrop found here, is certainly of extraordinary interest to all students of our colonial history. Its fortunate discovery emphasizes in the strongest manner the great importance of the work which Mr. Waters is doing for us in England.
This paper clears up many obscurities in our early New England history, and gives us definite information which we have long desired to obtain.
It was probably presented to Sir Edward Hyde, afterwards Earl of Clarendon, who was then Charles the Second"s Lord High Chancellor. It may be the paper referred to by Maverick in his letter to the earl, printed in the Collections of the New York Historical Society for 1869, page 19. That letter and others in the same volume should be read in connection with the present paper. They show the persistency displayed by Maverick in his efforts to deprive New England, and particularly Ma.s.sachusetts, of the right of self-government which had so long been enjoyed here. The same spirit is shown in his letters printed in the third volume of the New York Colonial Doc.u.ments. The death of Maverick, which occurred between October 15, 1669, and May 15, 1676, did not bring repose to the people of Ma.s.sachusetts. In the latter year a new a.s.sailant of their charter appeared in the person of Edward Randolph (see REGISTER, x.x.xvi. 155), whose a.s.saults on their liberties did not cease till the charter was wrested from them, and the government under it came to an end May 20, 1686.
The doc.u.ment here printed is in the British Museum, Egerton MSS. 2395, ff. 397-411. The volume containing it was in private hands till 1875, when on the sixteenth of February in that year it was sold at auction by Messrs. Sotheby & Co., London, and bought by the Trustees of the British Museum.
The long residence of Mr. Maverick, the writer of this "Description of New England," on these sh.o.r.es, and the opportunities which he is known to have had to learn personally the facts here stated, give it greater weight than it would have had were it merely the observations of a transient visitor to the New World.
This doc.u.ment was read before the Ma.s.sachusetts Historical Society by John T. Ha.s.sam, A.M., in October, 1884, and is printed in its Proceedings, vol. xxi. p. 231. It was also printed in the New-England Historical and Genealogical Register for January, 1885, and the type set for that periodical have been used to print the present issue.
_Boston, Ma.s.sachusetts, January 1, 1885._
A BRIEFE DISCRIPTION OF NEW ENGLAND AND THE SEVERALL TOWNES THEREIN,
TOGETHER WITH THE PRESENT GOVERNMENT THEREOF.
_Pe[~m]aquid._--Westward from Pen.o.bscott (which is the Southermost Fort in Nova Scotia) fourteen Leagues of is Pe[~m]aquid in which River Alderman Alworth of Bristole, setled a Company of People in the yeare 1625, which Plantation hath continued and many Families are now settled there. There was a Patent granted for it by his Mat^{ies}: Royall Grandfath^{er} and by vertue of that Patent they hold the Islands of Monahegan and Damerells Coue, and other small ones adjacent Commodious for fishing.
_Sagadahocke._--Three leagues distant from Damerells Coue is Sagadahocke at the mouth of Kenebeth River, on which place the Lord Pohams people setled about fiftie yeares since, but soon after deserted it, and returned for England; I found Rootes and Garden hearbs and some old walles there, when I went first over which shewed it to be the place where they had been. This is a great and spreading River and runes very neer into Canada. One Captaine Young and 3 men with him in the Yeare 1636 went up the River upon discovery and only by Carying their Canoes some few times, and not farr by Land came into Canada River very neare Kebeck Fort where by the French, Cap^{t} Young was taken, and carried for ffrance but his Company returned safe and about 10 yeares since a Gentleman and a Fryer came down this way from Kebeck to us in New England to desire aide from us ag^{st} the Mowake Indians who were and still are their deadly enemies; This River by reason of its nearnesse to Canada and some other branches of it tending towards Hudsons River; and a Lake of Canada afford more Beaver skins and other peltry then any other about us: On this River & on the Islands lying on the mouth of it are many families Scatteringly setled. Some attend wholly the trade with the Indians, others planting and raiseing a stock of Cattle and Some at the mouth of the River keep fishing. There was a patent granted to Christo: Batchelo^{r} and Company in the year 1632 or thereabouts for the mouth of the River and some tract of land adjacent, who came over in the Ship named the Plough, and termed themselves the Plough Companie, but soon scattered some for Virginia some for England, some to the Ma.s.sachusetts never settling on that land.
_Cas...o...b..y._--Betweene Sagadahocke and Cape Elizabeth lying about 7 Leagues a.s.sunder is Cas...o...b..y; about the yeare 1632 there was a Patent granted to one Cap^{t}. Christopher Lewett for 6000 acres of land which he tooke up in this Bay neare Cape Elizabeth and built a good House and fortified well on an Island lyeing before Casco River this he sold and his Interrest in the Patent to M^{r} Ceeley M^{r} Jope and Company of Plimouth, In this Cas...o...b..y are many scattering Families settled. There was a Patent granted for this Bay some yeares since by the t.i.tle of the Province of Ligonia to Collonell Alexander Rigby afterwards a Judge, and under this Goverment the People lived some yeares, till of late the Government of the Ma.s.sachusits hath made bold to stretch its Jurisdiction to the midle of this Bay, and as lyeing in their way have taken in a dozen of Goverments more.
_Richmond Island._--There was long since a Patent granted to M^{r} Robert Trelawny of Plymouth from Cape Elizabeth to Spurwinke River including all Richmond Isle, an Excellent ffishing place, His Agents for matter of Goverment long since submitted to the Province of Mayne, for which Province a Patent was long since granted to S^{r} Ferdinando Gorges there are not many people in it, Those that are, are under the Goverment of the Ma.s.sachusits.
_Black Point._--The next place inhabited is Black Point two miles from Richmond Island; For this a Patent was granted to Captaine Cammock whose successor M^{r} Henry Joselin lives there now, and severall Families besides, they were under the Goverment of the Province of Mayne, but now Commanded by the Ma.s.sachusits.
_Saco._--Three miles beyond this is Saco River abounding with ffish as Ba.s.se, Sturgeon and Salmond. The Northside of the River was granted by Patent to M^{r} Lewis and Capt. Bonithan, and the Southside to on M^{r} Richard Vines, upon this River are severall Families setled formerly under the Goverment of the Province of Majne and here was keept some time the Generall Court for that Province, but now Commanded by the Ma.s.sachusits.
_Wells._--Three miles from Saco River are Cape Porpyes Islands a good ffishing place, where are Severall Families setled, and 4 miles from thence is Wells a handsome and well peopled place Lying on both sides of a River, for which Place a Patent was long since Granted to on M^{r} John Stratton but now Commanded by the Ma.s.sachusetts.
_Bristoll_ now _Yorke_.--About 12 miles further is the River Agomentine, for which and the lands adjacent a Patent was (nere 30 yeares since) granted unto S^{r} Ferdinando Gorges, M^{r} G.o.dfrey, Alderman ffoote of Bristoll myselfe, and some others, On the northside of this River at our great Cost and Charges wee setled many ffamilies, which was then called Bristoll, and according to the Patent, the Goverment was conformable to that of the Corporation of Bristoll, only admitting of Appeales to the Generall Court for the Province of Mayne which was often keept there, but some yeares since the Goverment with the rest was Swallowed up by the Ma.s.sachusetts.
_Nichiquiwanick._--About 3 miles from Agomentine is the River Pascataway which is 6 miles from the mouth. It brancheth itselfe in two Branches, the South branch of which retaineth the name of Pascataway the other Nichiquiwanick, on the Northside of this River there are severall Divisions of Land granted long since by Patents unto diverse persons as Cap^{t} Mason, Cap^{t} Griffith, M^{r} Gardener and others, on which are severall persons setled for 12 miles togither. At the Falls of Nichiquiwanick 3 Excellent Saw-Mills are seatted and there and downward that side of y^{e} River have been gotten most of the Masts which have come for England, and amongst the rest that admired Mast which came over some time last year containing neere 30 Tu[=n]es of Ti[=m]ber (as I have been informed).
_Cochequo._--On the Sowth side of that Branch is a Creeke Cochequo, whereon at the head are 2 Saw Mills, and affoord good Masts, & Mutch Tarr hath been made on that Creeke side.
_Dover._--Belowe where the River parteth stands on a Tongue of Land the Towne of Dover, for which place and the land adjacent some gentlemen of or about Shrewsbury have a Patent.
_Oyster Creeke._--On the Northside of the South Arme is Oyster Creeke on which place are many people setled some Saw Mills and affoords yow Good Masts, and further up is another Saw Mill on Lamperell Creeke.
_Exeter._--Above this at the fall of this River Pascatoway is the Towne of Exceter, where are more Saw Mills, doune the Southside of this River are Farmes and other Stragling Families.
_Strawberry Bank. The Great House & Isle of Shooles._--Within 2 Myles of the Mouth is Strawberry Banke where are many Families, and a Minister & a Meeting House, and to the meeting Houses of Dower & Exceter, most of the people resort. This Strawberry Banke is part of 6000 acres granted by Patent about y^{e} yeare 1620 or 1621, to M^{r} David Thompson, who with the a.s.sistance of M^{r} Nicholas Sherwill, M^{r} Leonard Pomery and M^{r} Abraham Colmer of Plymouth Merchants, went ower with a Considerable Company of Servants and built a Strong and Large House, enclosed it with a large and high Palizado and mounted Gunns, and being stored extraordinarly with shot and Ammunition was a Terror to the Indians, who at that time were insulting over the poor weake and unfurnished Planters of Plymouth. This house and ffort he built on a Point of Land at the very entrance of Pascatoway River, And haveing granted by Patent all the Island bordering on this land to the Midle of the River, he tooke possession of an Island co[=m]only called the great Island and for the bounds of this land he went up the River to a point called Bloudy Point, and by the sea side about 4 milles he had also power of Goverment within his owne bounds, Notwithstanding all this, all is at this day in the power and at the disposall of the Ma.s.sachusitts.
Two Leagues of lyes the Isle of Shooles one of the best places for ffishing in the land, they have built a Church here and maintaine a Minister.
_Hampton._--Eight Miles to the Southward of Pascatoway is a small River called Monoconock, on which River is a large Town called Hampton, The inhabitants living weell by Corne and Cattle, of which they have great store, Ther was a Patent granted for this very place to Cap^{t} Mason neare 40 yeares agoe & this was the first land the Ma.s.sachusits stretcht there line over beyond there true bounds: For about 3 miles South of this place, at there first coming over they sett up a house and named it the bound House as finding it three miles from Meromack, the North bound of there Patent, and with this they rested contented for about 10 yeares.
_Salisbury New & Old._--Seaven Miles to the Southward of Hampton is Meromack River, on the mouth of which on the Northside is seatted a Large Toune called Sallisbury, and 3 miles above it a Village called old Salisbury, where ther is a Saw Mill or two. The Commodities this Toune affords are Corne, Cattle, Boards and Piper Staues.
_Haverell Andover._--Fouer Leagues up this River is Haverell, a pretty Toune & a few miles higher is the Toune of Andouer both these Tounes subsist by Husbandry.
_Newbury._--At the mouth on the southside of Meromack and upwards is seated the Towne of Newbury, the Houses stand at a good distance each from other a feild and Garden between each house, and so on both sides the street for 4 Miles or therabouts betweene Salisbury and this Towne, the River is broader then the Thames at Deptford, and in the Sumer abounds with Sturgeon, Salmon and other ffresh water fish. Had we the art of takeing and saveing the Sturgeon it would prove a very great advantage, the Country affording Vinager, and all other Materialls to do it withall.
In this Towne and old Newbury adjoining are 2 Meeting Houses.
_Rowley._--Three Miles beyound this Old Newbury is a large and populous Towne called Rowley about two miles from the Bay of Agowame within land the Inhabitants are most Yorkshiremen very laborious people and drive a pretty trade, makeing Cloath and Ruggs of Cotton Wool, and also Sheeps wooll with which in few yeares the Countrey will abound not only to supply themselves but also to send abroad. This Towne aboundeth with Corne, and Cattle, and have a great number of Sheep.
_Ipswich._--Three Miles beyond Rowley lyeth Ipswich at the head of Agawame River, as farr up as Vessells cane come. It hath many Inhabitants, and there farmes lye farr abroad, some of them severall miles from the Towne. So also they do about other Townes.
_Wenham._--Six Miles from this Towne lyeth a Towne called Wenham seated about a great Lake or Pond which abounds with all manner of ffresh ffish, and such co[=m]odities as other places have it affordeth.
_Gloucester._--Between these two Townes there runes out into the Sea that noated head land called Cape Ann fower miles within the outermost head. There is a Pa.s.sage cutt through a Marsh between Cape Ann Harbo^{r} & Manisqwanne Harbour where stands the Towne called Glocester very co[=m]odious for building of shipping and ffishing.
_Manchester._--Fower miles Westward from Glocester, lyeth on the Sea side a small Towne called Manchester, there is a Sawmill and aboundance of Timber.
_Mackrell & Ba.s.se Cove._--About six miles from this Towne lyeth by the Sea side a Village Called Mackarell Coue, and a mile or 2 aboue on a Branch of Salem River lyeth another Village called Ba.s.se Coue, These two have Joyned and built a Church, which stands between them both ower ag^{st} Salem.
_Salem._--On the South side of Salem River stands on a peninsula the Towne of Salem, setled some yeares by a few people befor the Patent of the Ma.s.sachusits was granted. It is very commodious for fishing, and many Vessells have been built there and (excep^{t} Boston) it hath as much Trade as any place in New England both inland and abroad.
_Marblehead or Foy._--Two miles below this Towne on the Southside of the Harbo^{r} by the sea side lyeth Marblehead or ffoy the greatest Towne for ffishing in New England.
_Lynne._--Five miles Westward lyeth the Towne of Lynne along by the sea side, and two miles aboue it within the bounds of it are the greatest Iron works erected for the most part at the charge of some Merchants, and Gentlmen here resideing and cost them about 14000, who were as it is conceived about six yeares since Injuriously outted of them to the great prejudice of the Country and Owners.
_Reading._--Three miles above the Iron Worke in the Country is a pretty Towne, called Reading, which as all inland Townes doe live by Husbandry.
The people have imployment also at the Iron work in digging of myne, and cutting of wood.
_Rumney Marsh._--Two miles from the Ironwork by the Seaside is a large Marsh called Rummney Marsh and between that and Winnisime being about 2 miles. There are many good farmes belonging to Bostone, which have a Metting House, as it were a Chapel of Ease.
_Winnisime._--Two miles Sowth from Rumney Marsh on the North side of Mistick River is Winnisime which though but a few houses on it, yet deserves to be men[~c]ond One house yet standing there which is the Antientest house in the Ma.s.sachusetts Goverment, a house which in the yeare 1625 I fortified with a Pillizado and fflankers and gunnes both belowe and above in them which awed the Indians who at that time had a mind to Cutt off the English, They once faced it but receiveing a repulse never attempted it more although (as now they confesse) they repented it when about 2 yeares after they saw so many English come over.