--"You must be, madam, very well acquainted with our arts. Whence have you acquired that taste?"

--"From the time of the last Great Exhibition here, when your country sent so many valuable specimens of art."

--"You must yourself be an artist. I can see it from your observations."

--"Yes, she is an artist, although an amateur," interposed Lady Modestina.

--"No, don"t say that," interrupted the marchioness.

--"I dare say you paint much," said I.

--"No, not at all," replied the marchioness, and continued as she laughed slightly, "except, perhaps, that I used to paint occasionally my own portrait, of course after the style of the _chef-d"uvre_ of your "literary picture" in the faintest and lightest colours. By the way, I also like j.a.panese methods of gardening. I once had a j.a.panese gardener for three years at my country seat."

--"Really," said I, "you interest me very much."

--"He was very clever; far more so than any European, any Frenchman, in the same calling of life could ever possibly be."

--"With us," said I, "it is very common. Every gardener understands the ordinary art of "garden-making," though, of course, there are only a few real experts. But let me tell you that it comes more from the general atmosphere and surroundings in which they grow up. There is nothing surprising in it to our eyes."

--"May be. But to us it seems extraordinary. After three years, during which he served me very faithfully, I transferred him to a Frenchman, Mr. Canny by name."

--"Is that so? I have seen his j.a.panese gardens."

--"Then you know him?"

--"Yes, I first came to know him when he visited my country some years ago. The other day I made a great circuit round Paris in his motor: we left Paris by the Bois, then St. Cloud, Versailles, on to Fontainebleau, making a large circuit through Cagny, Surveilliers, Beaumont, Pointoise, thus reaching St. Germain, thence on to St Cloud and back to Paris by the same route. We must have travelled three or four hundred kilometres."

--"Then you must have pa.s.sed through the forests of Fontainebleau. Are not the trees and rocks there splendid?"

--"Yes, that is just what struck me very much, but I am most interested to hear that you appreciate the value of natural rocks. They are very important elements in our j.a.panese gardens."

--"I cannot understand how so great a number of rocks could have been heaped up there in that peculiar way. Some people imagine that at one time they formed the bottom of the sea."

--"Oh! but if so, it must have been a very long time ago. At all events, before we came into existence," said I, laughing, and added, "I should like to get a concession from the government to take those rocks, because the time will certainly come when they will be wanted for French gardens, and perhaps I could then become a millionaire."

Thereupon we all broke out into laughter. The marchioness still continued to talk on different subjects. She had no affectation: she said boldly just what she thought with all the sparkle of her intelligence. I tried not to be overwhelmed by her eloquence, and the consequence was that we had a very heated discussion on the customs and manners of different countries. Reverting to j.a.pan she said:

--"I hear one can marry for two months in j.a.pan. Is that true?"

--"I beg your pardon?"

--"Well, that is what I have heard," she said, "from an acquaintance. He said that he himself had married when he was staying in j.a.pan, having gone through the requisite wedding ceremony--partaking of sake cups with the bride."

--"Well, madam," I said, "I must say it is possible. Nay, more than possible. I can go further and tell you that such things may occur even for much shorter times than that. But similar customs! Is it not the same all over the world?--even in Paris itself, I am afraid. However, I must say the nuptials of that particular kind are far less in number in my country than in most of the civilised countries."

Thereupon she burst into great laughter, as also did the others, and she said:

--"I should like to hear something of your marriage ceremony. Is it a civil or religious one?"

--"Entirely civil, madam," I replied. "We hear now and then of people celebrating a religious marriage after the fashion of the West, but it is very rare, as rare as one or two stars in a cloudy sky."

--"You seem to imitate the West in everything," said she; "but what I would like to know of is your national ceremony."

--"Our marriage ceremony is a time-honoured one and entirely civil," I said. "There is always an officiating person or a witness or an a.s.sistant, if you like. He is the person who is responsible for the completion of a marriage. Generally he is the person who arranges the matter from the very beginning--I mean, from the time when the engagement is formally made between the parties and, therefore, he is called a Nakaodo, a middle-man, or a go-between, as you like. Even when all the preliminary arrangements have been made by a second person, and another person, for some reason, is preferred to officiate, the latter is called theoretically, or, as it were, officially, a Nakaodo, and he is considered as being responsible for all. A middle-man must be married, for his function must be shared by his wife, especially when the essential part of the ceremony is performed; besides, a bachelor or widower would never be considered a fit person for such an occasion. But do you mean to make me give you the whole history of a wedding?"

--"Of course! Your story is just beginning to be most interesting," said she.

--"Very well! The ceremony is very elaborate and solemn, though the scale differs, or rather is magnified or simplified, according to circ.u.mstances. To begin with, when the engagement is formally made, certain presents called "Yuino" are at once exchanged simultaneously between the families of the bride and bridegroom elect--there are certain usages in the selection of these presents."

--"What kind of things, for instance?" she asked.

--"A staff for ceremonial "onna-obi" (a sort of a broad sash for women) for the bride, and a staff for a ceremonial "hakama" (a sort of long kilt) and an "otoko-obi" (a sort of sash for men) for the bridegroom.

They are invariably accompanied by "noshi" and "katsuo.""

--"What are they?"

--"They are things which you have not got in Europe. One made of seaweed and the other of dried fish meat, but it is waste of time to describe them, for you would hardly realise them if I did so. Suffice it to say that they are of little value intrinsically, but they are used in j.a.pan to signify felicity. Remember, practical people sometimes subst.i.tute cash and a list of presents: the conventionality of the world is apt to take this form. These presents correspond to your giving an engagement ring, only ours are more solemn and, moreover, not one-sided."

--"And what next?"

--"Pray be patient. There is no fixed usage as to the length of the interval between the engagement and wedding, but some months usually intervene. Nevertheless, we are not so patient, like many Occidentals, as to let it stand over for many years. When the time which is convenient for both parties approaches, the date is fixed, a selection being made of a day of happy omen, as is also the case when the engagement presents are made. You see, there exists more or less a sort of superst.i.tion in every country."

--"Let us suppose that day arrived. What takes place then?"

--"Wedding ceremonies are generally performed in the evening and at the house of the bridegroom. But remember, here again a restaurant or some other place is sometimes subst.i.tuted for the residence, if the latter is not suitable for the occasion."

--"Naturally."

--"All the paraphernalia and suchlike of the bride are sent to her future home some days previously. They are generally packed up in boxes in such a way that each box can be carried on the shoulders of two persons by poles. They are not packed and sent by carts, as when moving the place of one"s residence. The escort and carriers receive good tips on arriving at their destination, so that those who happen to perform that duty are only too glad to do so. The quant.i.ty and quality of the articles thus sent, of course, vary according to the conditions and positions of the parties."

--"As ours do, I presume."

--"But there are certain articles which are most usually prepared for the bride."

--"As ours are also."

--"Previously to the departure of the bride from her home, some entertainments are generally given to her near relations, intimate friends, and also to the servants for a farewell, or at least all the members of the family gather together and make some merriment. This generally takes place on the previous evening. On the day of her departure, the officiating person and his wife go to her parents" home and accompany her to her future home. Her parents, brothers, and sisters also accompany, nay more, all her near relations and those of the bridegroom also are invited, in order to be formally introduced to each other and be present at the wedding banquet. In China the character which means "to return" is generally used also to signify the act of a bride leaving her home and going to the home of her future husband to be married to him. The idea is that her future home, to which she is now going, is imagined to be her real home, where she is now going back, and she is not expected to return to her previous home for good, or rather for any permanent purpose, for such a thing is considered out of the question altogether. This notion is also the same with us j.a.panese; consequently in Samurai families the same formality as that of the departure of the dead is generally performed at the departure of the bride. I wonder if the Western custom of throwing slippers has any similar origin!"

--"Very likely!" the marchioness interposed.

--"And yet," interrupted Lady Modestina, "girls, and indeed young men, too, are compelled to marry without knowing and seeing each other at all before the wedding, as people say. Poor girls! Poor young men, too!"

"Not exactly," I answered; "remember, Napoleon and the Archd.u.c.h.ess of Austria had never seen each other before her state entry into the French territory. The d.u.c.h.ess, it is said, heaved deep sighs of relief at the first sight of Napoleon, who was not after all a monstrous creature, as she had fancied from the stories she had heard of the sanguinary battles he had fought everywhere. Such things--at least, similar things--often take place even in Europe. So with us, too, in former days, marriages of great feudal lords were generally not unlike Napoleon"s second marriage.

But with the people in general the matter was different. In these cases Miai, which literally means to see each other, was essential and almost the formal part of the ceremony. When "preliminary inquiries," so to say, had turned out satisfactory, the so-called seeing each other took place, that is to say, a rendezvous was arranged in one way or the other, say, at a flower garden or a theatre, in such a manner that neither of the parties felt any discomfort, and it did not become an obligation to either of them. Remember there was nothing indiscreet in the affair, as both of the parties were always accompanied by some near relatives or trustworthy friends. In nuptial affairs, parental authority was much exercised, as in this country, it is true; but the power of vetoing was always reserved by the would-be bride, and still more by the bridegroom, especially after the rendezvous. It was, however, thought advisable that as full preliminary inquiries as possible should be made before the rendezvous, in order that one side might not inconsiderately disappoint the other."

--"But what do you mean by preliminary inquiries?"

--"It means obtaining as much information as possible with regard to family affairs, family traditions, the character and attainments, even habits and tastes of the would-be bride or bridegroom as the case may be, and I dare say the faces also, even the number of the black spots on it."

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