[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 708. INSERTION OF PLAIN b.u.t.tONHOLE St.i.tCHES.]
INSERTION OF SINGLE b.u.t.tONHOLE St.i.tCHES (figs. 707 and 708).--Make very loose b.u.t.tonhole st.i.tches along both edges of the braid, all the same size and the same distance apart, and vertically, opposite to each other.
When these two rows are finished, pick up each loop with Russian st.i.tch, either single, fig. 704, or twisted, fig. 705. Fig. 708 shows the double Russian st.i.tch made in each loop; it may be trebled or quadrupled, according to whether you wish your insertion to be very transparent or not.
[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 709. INSERTION WITH BEAD St.i.tCHES.]
INSERTION WITH BEAD St.i.tCHES (fig. 709).--Join the opposite rows of loops together by four st.i.tches. The threads of these st.i.tches must lie quite flat, side by side, and not one on the top of the other. After the fourth st.i.tch, you wind the thread round the bottom loop and then carry it on to the next, whence you repeat the four st.i.tches as above.
Cl.u.s.tER INSERTION (fig. 710).--Over the middle of two finished plain bars and one half-finished one, a short distance apart, you make five b.u.t.tonhole st.i.tches and overcast the remainder of the third bar. The first bar of the next cl.u.s.ter must be set quite close to the last.
INSERTION WITH BRANCHES (figs. 711 and 712).--Throw the thread across the middle of the s.p.a.ce between two edges of braid, and lengthways, from one end to the other, pa.s.s the needle horizontally under four or five threads of the braid, across the insertion; then carry it in a similar manner, first to the left and then to the right, take up the same number of threads of the braid and connect the three loops together by a knot, as is clearly shown in fig. 711.
[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 710. Cl.u.s.tER INSERTION.]
[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 711. INSERTION WITH PLAIN BRANCHES.]
[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 712. INSERTION WITH BRANCHES AND WHEELS.]
Fig. 712 represents a similar beginning, and a similar interlacing of the threads, but ornamented this time with a wheel, added after the knot has been made over the loops.
[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 713. INSERTION WITH LEAVES WORKED IN DARNING St.i.tCH.]
INSERTION WITH LEAVES IN DARNING St.i.tCH (fig. 713).--Fasten on the thread where, according to the ill.u.s.tration, the first leaf in the insertion ought to come, carry it across to the opposite side, draw it through the edge of the braid and bring it back to the point whence it started, lay threads across to both sides, like in figs. 711 and 712, unite them by a knot, such as described in fig. 711, lay the thread once more round the middle leaf, and finish the leaf in darning st.i.tch, working downwards from the top, as described in the preceding chapter in figs. 646 and 647. As may be seen from the second middle leaf, your darning st.i.tches have to be made over five threads, subdivided into two and three.
[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 714. INSERTION WITH SMALL WHEELS.]
INSERTION WITH SMALL WHEELS (fig. 714).--Here, you have to make two rows of Russian st.i.tches opposite each other and carry the thread to the point of intersection, then, you make a wheel over five threads and pa.s.s the needle under the completed wheel to reach the next point of intersection. Half wheels may also be added at the edge of the braid, as in figs. 658 and 659.
[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 715. INSERTION WITH BIG WHEELS.]
INSERTION WITH BIG WHEELS (fig. 715).--Carry the thread horizontally across the middle of the s.p.a.ce intended for the insertion, to the opposite side, and then conduct it by means of overcasting st.i.tches into the corner; thence make a loose loop over to the opposite corner, pa.s.s the needle under six or eight threads of the braid edge, slip it under the horizontal thread first laid and behind the loop, and finish the st.i.tch on the other side in the edge of the braid.
Throw the thread again across the empty s.p.a.ce and over the first thread, bring your needle back to the middle, make a big wheel over four threads, pa.s.sing each time under the same threads, then overcast the single thread, come back to the edge of the braid and make the second loop, bringing out the thread at the same place where the other st.i.tches came out.
INSERTION WITH CONES (figs. 716 and 717).--Over plain but very distended Russian st.i.tch, make darning st.i.tches backwards and forwards, beginning at the point and reaching to the middle, so as to form small cone-shaped figures.
To reach the point of the next cone you overcast the thread of the Russian st.i.tch several times.
You may also, as in fig. 717, double the Russian st.i.tch and make the darning st.i.tches in such a manner that the points of the cones touch each other and their bases meet the edge of the braid. The same thing, worked the reverse way, that is, with the points turned outwards to the edge, produces a not less pretty effect.
[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 716. INSERTION WITH CONES.]
[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 717. INSERTION WITH CONES.]
[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 718. INSERTION WITH EMBROIDERED SQUARES.]
INSERTION WITH EMBROIDERED SQUARES (fig. 718).--After making rows of loose b.u.t.tonhole st.i.tches along the braid edges, as in figs. 707, 708, 709, run a thread through the b.u.t.tonhole st.i.tches; this thread serves as the foundation to the Russian st.i.tches by which the two edges are joined together. The empty square s.p.a.ce left between the Russian st.i.tches is then filled up with b.u.t.tonhole st.i.tches, like those in fig. 651, in the foregoing chapter.
[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 719. INSERTION WITH HALF BARS.]
INSERTION WITH HALF BARS (fig. 719).--Fasten on the thread in one of the corners of the braid and conduct it by means of overcasting st.i.tches to the middle of the insertion, draw it through the edge of the braid on the right and make b.u.t.tonhole st.i.tches over it, to the middle of the s.p.a.ce to be filled, then carry the thread to the left, draw it through the left edge, a little higher up than on the other side, and make the same number of st.i.tches over it as over the first. You can vary this insertion with very good result by making more st.i.tches on one side than on the other, but it should never be more than 10 or 12 st.i.tches wide.
[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 720. PLAIN NET St.i.tCH. FIRST LACE St.i.tCH.]
PLAIN NET St.i.tCH. FIRST LACE St.i.tCH (fig. 720).--Make rows of b.u.t.tonhole st.i.tches to and fro, loose enough to form loops into which the st.i.tches of each subsequent row are set. You must be careful to make the same number of st.i.tches in all the s.p.a.ces that are of the same size, and also, when you begin a row with a whole st.i.tch, to begin the return row with a half, and so on, in regular rotation.
The number of st.i.tches should vary with the width of the pattern and the decreasing and increasing should always be done at the edge.
The loops must be as many threads of the braid edge long, as they are wide.
[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 721. DOUBLE NET St.i.tCH. SECOND LACE St.i.tCH.]
DOUBLE NET St.i.tCH. SECOND LACE St.i.tCH (fig. 721).--You leave the same distance between the st.i.tches here as in the preceding figure, but in each of the loops of the first row, you must make two b.u.t.tonhole st.i.tches close together. It is as well to round the loop a little less than is usually done in net st.i.tch.
[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 722. THIRD LACE St.i.tCH.]
THIRD LACE St.i.tCH (fig. 722).--Here, you make three b.u.t.tonhole st.i.tches close together, joined to the next three by a loop of thread, just long enough to hold the three b.u.t.tonhole st.i.tches of the subsequent row.
[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 723. FOURTH LACE St.i.tCH.]
FOURTH LACE St.i.tCH (fig. 723).--Working from left to right, make two b.u.t.tonhole st.i.tches rather near together, and leave twice as long a loop between them and the next two st.i.tches as between the two first.
In the next row, which is worked from right to left, make one st.i.tch in the loop between the two st.i.tches that are close together and three or four in the long loop.
[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 724. FIFTH LACE St.i.tCH.]
FIFTH LACE St.i.tCH (fig. 724).--As in fig. 723, you begin this st.i.tch from left to right, but making three st.i.tches very close together with an intermediate loop as long as the three st.i.tches in one.
In the second row, you make one b.u.t.tonhole st.i.tch in each of the loops between the three st.i.tches and six or eight in the long intermediate loop.
[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 725. SIXTH LACE St.i.tCH.]
SIXTH LACE St.i.tCH (fig. 725).--Over wide loops, made from left to right in the first row, make in the second, enough b.u.t.tonhole st.i.tches entirely to cover the thread.
In the third row of st.i.tches, put the needle into the small loop between two sets of b.u.t.tonhole st.i.tches, so that the close st.i.tches shall form vertical lines across the surface they cover.
This st.i.tch admits of every sort of modification, such as, for instance, making the third row of st.i.tches on the b.u.t.tonhole st.i.tches, in the middle of the ones on the small loop; or making one row of close st.i.tches first, and then three open rows; in the former case you should always make an uneven number of b.u.t.tonhole st.i.tches, so that you have the same number on both sides of the needle, which you must put in between the two threads that form the middle b.u.t.tonhole st.i.tch.
[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 726. SEVENTH LACE St.i.tCH.]
SEVENTH LACE St.i.tCH (fig. 726).--Begin, working from right to left, by making one row of pairs of b.u.t.tonhole st.i.tches, a very short distance apart; in the second row you make one b.u.t.tonhole st.i.tch between each of these pairs, and in the third row, two b.u.t.tonhole st.i.tches in every long loop. Here, the st.i.tches must not be crowded together but have a small gap left between them.
[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 727. EIGHTH LACE St.i.tCH.]
EIGHTH LACE St.i.tCH (fig. 727).--This st.i.tch is generally known as the "pea-st.i.tch" on account of the holes occasioned by the different distribution of the st.i.tches.
The first row consists of st.i.tches, set rather closely together, and all the same distance apart. In the second row, you make one b.u.t.tonhole st.i.tch in the last st.i.tch of the first row, then, missing two loops and three b.u.t.tonhole st.i.tches, you make two st.i.tches in the next loops and so on. In the third row, you make three st.i.tches in the big loop, and one in the loop between the st.i.tches of the second row.