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There are several methods in vogue for tucking the strand, but the following is as good as any:--Tuck the first strand under two strands and all the rest under one strand respectively. Tuck whole again, and this time each strand under one strand, then halve the strands and tuck again.
To make a neat splice do not haul the part of the rope that has not been unlaid too close to the neck of the splice, and in tucking the strands never take a short nip but take long lays.
In unlaying for a long splice, always unlay two strands simultaneously, to keep the rope in its original lay. For a fair-sized rope unlay about 9 ft. of each end.
Proceed as in rope splicing, and after the three pairs of strands are in their places, single them, and continue to unlay and lay-in until the six meeting places of the strands are equi-distant.
To finish off the ends properly can only be learnt by observation and actual practice. By using two marline-spikes, the hempen heart is removed and the ends of the wire strands forced into the place it occupied, making a very neat job when finished.
Wire splices should be parcelled with oily canvas and served with Hambro" line.
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PURCHASES.
(1) +Single Whip+.--A rope rove through a single block fixed in any position. No power is gained (Fig. 92).
[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 92.]
(2). +Double Whip+.--A rope rove through two single blocks--upper block a tail block, lower one a movable hook block. Power gained--double (Fig. 93).
[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 93.]
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(3). +A Runner+ adds an additional power to the purchase it is used with (Fig. 94).
[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 94.]
(4). +Gun Tackle+.--single blocks. Power gained--twice or thrice, according to which is the movable block (Fig. 95).
[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 95.]
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(5). +Handy Billy or Jigger+.--A small tackle for general use; a double block with a tail and single block with hook (Fig. 96).
[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 96.]
(6). +Watch Tackle or Luff Tackle+.--Double hook block and single hook block (Fig. 97).
[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 97.]
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(7). +Double Luff+.--Two double blocks (Fig. 98).
[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 98.]
(8). +Three-Fold Purchase+.--Two three-fold blocks. Power gained--six or seven times (Fig. 99).
[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 99.]
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(9). +Four-Fold Purchase+.--Two four-fold blocks. Power gained--eight or nine times (Fig. 100).
[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 100.]
(10). +A Single Spanish Burton+.--Two single blocks and a hook. Power gained--three times (Fig. 101).
[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 101.]
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[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 102.]
(11). +A Double Spanish Burton+.--There are two forms of this purchase--Fig. 102, by using three single blocks; Fig. 103, by using one double block and two single blocks. Power gained--five times.
[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 103.]
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(12). +A Spanish Windla.s.s+.--To rig a Spanish Windla.s.s take a good strand well greased in the centre. Place the strand over the two parts of the rope that are to be hove together, and bringing the ends of the strand up again, place a bolt close to the strand. Take the ends of the strand and lay them up with their own parts so as to form two eyes.
Take a round turn with this round the bolt, put a marline-spike through each eye and heave around (Fig. 104).
[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 104.]
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MISCELLANEOUS ODDS AND ENDS.
(1). +A Palm and Needle Whipping+ is a more permanent way of securing a rope"s end from fraying than the common whipping put on by hand.
First, place the needle under one of the strands and draw nearly the whole length of twine through. Take a considerable number of turns round the rope with the twine, drawing each well taut in turn, and finish up by following round with the needle between each strand, forming a series of frappings, and cut off the end of the twine short (Fig. 105).
[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 105.]
(2). +A West Country Whipping+ is formed by middling the twine around the part of the rope to be marked and half knotting it at every half turn, so that each half knot will be on opposite sides. When a sufficient number of turns are pa.s.sed, finish it off with a reef knot.
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