NANCEPEAN
The Rhos or, as it is popularly written and p.r.o.nounced, the Rose is a tract of land in the south-west of the Duchy of Cornwall, ten miles long and six at its greatest breadth, which on account of its remoteness from the railway, its unusual geological formation, and its peninsular shape possesses both in the character of its inhabitants and in the peculiar aspects of the natural scene all the limitations and advantages of an island. The main road running south to Rose Head from Rosemarket cuts the peninsula into two unequal portions, the eastern and by far the larger of which consists of a flat tableland two or three hundred feet above the sea covered with a bushy heath, which flourishes in the magnesian soil and which when in bloom is of such a clear rosy pink, with nothing to break the level monochrome except scattered drifts of cotton gra.s.s, pools of silver water and a few stunted pines, that ignorant observers have often supposed that the colour gave its name to the whole peninsula. The ancient town of Rosemarket, which serves as the only channel of communication with the rest of Cornwall, lies in the extreme north-west of the peninsula between a wide creek of the Roseford river and the Rose Pool, an irregular heart-shaped water about four miles in circ.u.mference which on the west is only separated from the Atlantic by a bar of fine shingle fifty yards across.
The parish of Nancepean, of which Mark"s grandfather the Reverend Charles Elphinstone Trehawke had been vicar for nearly thirty years, ran southward from the Rose Pool between the main road and the sea for three miles. It was a country of green valleys unfolding to the ocean, and of small farms fertile enough when they were sheltered from the prevailing wind; but on the southern confines of the parish the soil became shallow and stony, the arable fields degenerated into a rough open pasturage full of gorse and foxgloves and gradually widening patches of heather, until finally the level monochrome of the Rhos absorbed the last vestiges of cultivation, and the parish came to an end.
The actual village of Nancepean, set in a hollow about a quarter of a mile from the sea, consisted of a smithy, a grocer"s shop, a parish hall and some two dozen white cottages with steep thatched roofs lying in their own gardens on either side of the unfrequented road that branched from the main road to follow the line of the coast. Where this road made the turn south a track strewn with grey shingle ran down between the cliffs, at this point not much more than gra.s.sy hummocks, to Nancepean beach which extended northward in a wide curve until it disappeared two miles away in the wooded heights above the Rose Pool. The metalled coast road continued past the Hanover Inn, an isolated house standing at the head of a small cove, to make the long ascent of Pendhu Cliff three hundred and fifty feet high, from the brow of which it descended between banks of fern past St. Tugdual"s Church to the sands of Church Cove, whence it emerged to climb in a steep zigzag the next headland, beyond which it turned inland again to Lanyon and rejoined the main road to Rose Head. The church itself had no architectural distinction; but the solitary position, the churchyard walls sometimes washed by high spring tides, the squat tower built into the rounded gra.s.sy cliff that protected it from the direct attack of the sea, and its impressive antiquity combined to give it more than the finest architecture could give. Nowhere in the surrounding landscape was there a sign of human habitation, neither on the road down from Pendhu nor on the road up toward Lanyon, not on the bare towans sweeping from the beach to the sky in undulating waves of sandy gra.s.s, nor in the valley between the towans and Pendhu, a wide green valley watered by a small stream that flowed into the cove, where it formed a miniature estuary, the configuration of whose effluence changed with every tide.
The Vicarage was not so far from the church as the church was from the village, but it was some way from both. It was reached from Nancepean by a road or rather by a gated cart-track down one of the numerous valleys of the parish, and it was reached from the church by another cart-track along the valley between Pendhu and the towans. Probably it was an ancient farmhouse, and it must have been a desolate and austere place until, as at the date when Mark first came there, it was graced by the perfume and gold of acacias, by wistaria and jasmine and honeysuckle, by the ivory goblets of magnolias, by crimson fuchsias, and where formerly its grey walls grew mossy north and east by pink and white camelias and the waxen bells of lapagerias. The garden was a wilderness of scarlet rhododendrons from the thickets of which innumerable blackbirds and thrushes preyed upon the peas. The lawns were like meadows; the lily ponds were marbled with weeds; the stables were hardly to be reached on account of the tangle of roses and briers that filled the abandoned yard. The front drive was bordered by evergreen oaks, underneath the shade of which blue hydrangeas flowered spa.r.s.ely with a profusion of pale-green foliage and lanky stems.
Mark when he looked out of his window on the morning after his arrival thought that he was in fairyland. He looked at the rhododendrons; he looked at the raindrops of the night sparkling in the morning sun; he looked at the birds, and the blue sky, and across the valley to a hillside yellow with gorse. He hardly knew how to restrain himself from waking his mother with news of the wonderful sights and sounds of this first vision of the country; but when he saw a clump of daffodils nodding in the gra.s.s below, it was no longer possible to be considerate.
Creeping to his mother"s door, he gently opened it and listened. He meant only to whisper "Mother," but in his excitement he shouted, and she suddenly roused from sleep by his voice sat up in alarm.
"Mother, there are seven daffodils growing wild under my window."
"My darling, you frightened me so. I thought you"d hurt yourself."
"I don"t know how my voice came big like that," said Mark apologetically. "I only meant it to be a whisper. But you weren"t dreadfully frightened? Or were you?"
His mother smiled.
"No, not dreadfully frightened."
"Well, do you think I might dress myself and go in the garden?"
"You mustn"t disturb grandfather."
"Oh, mother, of course not."
"All right, darling. But it"s only six o"clock. Very early. And you must remember that grandfather may be tired. He had to wait an hour for us at Rosemarket last night."
"He"s very nice, isn"t he?"
Mark did not ask this tentatively; he really did think that his grandfather was very nice, although he had been puzzled and not a little frightened by his bushy black eyebrows slanting up to a profusion of white hair. Mark had never seen such eyebrows, and he wondered whatever grandfather"s moustache would be like if it were allowed to grow.
"He"s a dear," said Mrs. Lidderdale fervidly. "And now, sweetheart, if you really intend to dress yourself run along, because Mother wants to sleep a little longer if she can."
The only difficulty Mark had was with his flannel front, because one of the tapes vanished like a worm into its hole, and nothing in his armoury was at once long enough and pointed enough to hook it out again. Finally he decided that at such an early hour of the morning it would not matter if he went out exposing his vest, and soon he was wandering in that enchanted shrubbery of rhododendrons, alternating between imagining it to be the cave of Aladdin or the beach where Sinbad found all the pebbles to be precious stones. He wandered down hill through the thicket, listening with a sense of satisfaction to the increasing squelchiness of the peaty soil and feeling when the blackbirds fled at his approach with shrill quack and flapping wings much more like a hunter than he ever felt in the nursery at Lima Street. He resolved to bring his gun with him next time. This was just the place to find a hippopotamus, or even a crocodile. Mark had reached the bottom of the slope and discovered a dark sluggish stream full of decayed vegetable matter which was slowly oozing on its course. Or even a crocodile, he thought again; and he looked carefully at a half-submerged log. Or even a crocodile . . . yes, but people had often thought before that logs were not crocodiles and had not discovered their mistake until they were half way down the crocodile"s throat. It had been amusing to fancy the existence of crocodiles when he was still close to the Vicarage, but suppose after all that there really were crocodiles living down here?
Feeling a little ashamed of his cowardice, but glossing it over with an a.s.sumption of filial piety, Mark turned to go back through the rhododendrons so as not to be late for breakfast. He would find out if any crocodiles had been seen about here lately, and if they had not, he would bring out his gun and . . . suddenly Mark was turned inside out by terror, for not twenty yards away there was without any possibility of self-deception a wild beast something between an ant-eater and a laughing hyena that with nose to the ground was evidently pursuing him, and what was worse was between him and home. There flashed through Mark"s mind the memories of what other hunters had done in such situations, what ruses they had adopted if unarmed, what method of defence if armed; but in the very instant of the panoramic flash Mark did what countless uncelebrated hunters must have done, he ran in the opposition direction from his enemy. In this case it meant jumping over the stream, crocodile or not, and tearing his away through s...o...b..rries and brambles until he emerged on the moors at the bottom of the valley.
It was not until he had put half a dozen small streams between himself and the unknown beast that Mark paused to look round. Behind him the valley was lost in a green curve; before him another curve shut out the ultimate view. On his left the slope of the valley rose to the sky in tiers of blazing yellow gorse; to his right he could see the thickets through which he had emerged upon this verdant solitude. But beyond the thickets there was no sign of the Vicarage. There was not a living thing in sight; there was nothing except the song of larks high up and imperceptible against the steady morning sun that shed a benign warmth upon the world, and particularly upon the back of Mark"s neck when he decided that his safest course was to walk in the direction of the valley"s gradual widening and to put as many more streams as he could between him and the beast. Having once wetted himself to the knees, he began to take a pleasure in splashing through the vivid wet greenery. He wondered what he should behold at the next curve of the valley; without knowing it he began to walk more slowly, for the beauty of the day was drowsing his fears; the spell of earth was upon him. He walked more slowly, because he was pa.s.sing through a bed of forget-me-nots, and he could not bear to blind one of those myriad blue eyes. He chose most carefully the destination of each step, and walking thus he did not notice that the valley would curve no more, but was opening at last. He looked up in a sudden consciousness of added s.p.a.ce, and there serene as the sky above was spread the sea. Yesterday from the train Mark had had what was actually his first view of the sea; but the rain had taken all the colour out of it, and he had been thrilled rather by the word than by the fact. Now the word was nothing, the fact was everything. There it was within reach of him, blue as the pictures always made it. The streams of the valley had gathered into one, and Mark caring no more what happened to the forget-me-nots ran along the bank. This morning when the stream reached the sh.o.r.e it broke into twenty limpid rivulets, each one of which ploughed a separate silver furrow across the glistening sand until all were merged in ocean, mighty father of streams and men. Mark ran with the rivulets until he stood by the waves" edge.
All was here of which he had read, sh.e.l.ls and seaweed, rocks and cliffs and sand; he felt like Robinson Crusoe when he looked round him and saw nothing to break the solitude. Every point of the compa.s.s invited exploration and promised adventure. That white road running northward and rising with the cliffs, whither did it lead, what view was outspread where it dipped over the brow of the high table-land and disappeared into the naked sky beyond? The billowy towans sweeping up from the beach appeared to him like an illimitable prairie on which buffaloes and bison might roam. Whither led the sandy track, the summit of whose long diagonal was lost in the brightness of the morning sky? And surely that huddled grey building against an isolated green cliff must be grandfather"s church of which his mother had often told him. Mark walked round the stone walls that held up the little churchyard and, entering by a gate on the farther side, he looked at the headstones and admired the feathery tamarisks that waved over the tombs. He was reading an inscription more legible than most on a headstone of highly polished granite, when he heard a voice behind him say:
"You mind what you"re doing with that grave. That"s my granfa"s grave, that is, and if you touch it, I"ll knock "ee down."
Mark looked round and beheld a boy of about his own age and size in a pair of worn corduroy knickerbockers and a guernsey, who was regarding him from fierce blue eyes under a shock of curly yellow hair.
"I"m not touching it," Mark explained. Then something warned him that he must a.s.sert himself, if he wished to hold his own with this boy, and he added:
"But if I want to touch it, I will."
"Will "ee? I say you won"t do no such a thing then."
Mark seized the top of the headstone as firmly as his small hands would allow him and invited the boy to look what he was doing.
"Lev go," the boy commanded.
"I won"t," said Mark.
"I"ll make "ee lev go."
"All right, make me."
The boy punched Mark"s shoulder, and Mark punched blindly back, hitting his antagonist such a little way above the belt as to lay himself under the imputation of a foul blow. The boy responded by smacking Mark"s face with his open palm; a moment later they were locked in a close struggle, heaving and panting and pushing until both of them tripped on the low railing of a grave and rolled over into a carefully tended bed of primroses, whence they were suddenly jerked to their feet, separated, and held at arm"s length by an old man with a grey beard and a small round hole in the left temple.
"I"ll learn you to scat up my tombs," said the old man shaking them violently. ""Tisn"t the first time I"ve spoken to you, Ca.s.s Dale, and who"s this? Who"s this boy?"
"Oh, my gosh, look behind "ee, Mr. Timbury. The bullocks is coming into the churchyard."
Mr. Timbury loosed his hold on the two boys as he turned, and Ca.s.s Dale catching hold of Mark"s hand shouted:
"Come on, run, or he"ll have us again."
They were too quick for the old man"s wooden leg, and scrambling over the wall by the south porch of the church they were soon out of danger on the beach below.
"My gosh, I never heard him coming. If I hadn"t have thought to sing out about the bullocks coming, he"d have laid that stick round us sure enough. He don"t care where he hits anybody, old man Timbury don"t. I belong to hear him tap-tapping along with his old wooden stump, but darn "ee I never heard "un coming this time."
The old man was leaning over the churchyard wall, shaking his stick and abusing them with violent words.
"That"s fine language for a s.e.xton," commented Ca.s.s Dale. "I"d be ashamed to swear like that, I would. You wouldn"t hear my father swear like that. My father"s a local preacher."
"So"s mine," said Mark.
"Is he? Where to?"
"London."
"A minister, is he?"
"No, he"s a priest."
"Does he kiss the Pope"s toe? My gosh, if the Pope asked me to kiss his toe, I"d soon tell him to kiss something else, I would."
"My father doesn"t kiss the Pope"s toe," said Mark.
"I reckon he does then," Ca.s.s replied. "Pa.s.son Trehawke don"t though.
Pa.s.son Trehawke"s some fine old chap. My father said he"d lev me go church of a morning sometimes if I"d a mind. My father belongs to come himself to the Harvest Home, but my granfa never came to church at all so long as he was alive. "Time enough when I"m dead for that" he used to say. He was a big man down to the Chapel, my granfa was. Mostly when he did preach the maids would start screeching, so I"ve heard tell. But he were too old for preaching when I knawed "un."
"My grandfather is the priest here," said Mark.