To wire the apparatus, refer to the sketch and you will see that jar No. 1 is connected to point No. 1 on switch; No. 2, on No. 2, and so on until all is complete and we have one remaining point on switch. Above the jars place a wire to suspend the other or top disks in the solution. This wire is also connected to one terminal on the motor and to remaining point on switch. The arm of the switch is connected to one terminal of battery, or source of current, and the other terminal connected direct to remaining terminal of motor.
Put arm of switch on point No. 1 and lower one of the top disks in jar No. 1 and make contact with wire above jars. The current then will flow through the motor. The speed for each point can be determined by lowering top disks in jars. The top disk in jar No.
2 is lower down than in No. 1 and so on for No. 3 and No. 4. The connection between point No. 5 on switch, direct to wire across jars, gives full current and full speed.
** How to Build a Toboggan Sled [44]
By A. BOETTE
The first object of the builder of a sled should be to have a "winner" both in speed and appearance. The accompanying instructions for building a sled are designed to produce these results.
The sled completed should be 15 ft. 2 in. long by 22 in. wide, with the cushion about 15 in. above the ground. For the baseboard select a pine board 15 ft. long, 11 in. wide and 2 in. thick, and plane it on all edges. Fit up the baseboard with ten oak foot-rests 22 in. long, 3 in. wide and 3/4 in. thick. Fasten them on the under side of the baseboard at right angles to its length and 16 in. apart, beginning at the rear. At the front 24 or 26 in.
will be left without cross bars for fitting on the auto front. On the upper side of the cross bars at their ends on each side screw a piece of oak 1 in. square by 14 ft. long. On the upper side of the baseboard at its edge on each side screw an oak strip 3 in.
wide by 3/4 in. thick and the length of the sled from the back to the auto front. These are to keep the cushion from falling out.
See Fig. 1. For the back of the sled use the upper part of a child"s high chair, taking out the spindles and resetting them in the rear end of the baseboard. Cover up the outside of the spindles with a piece of galvanized iron.
The construction of the runners is shown by Figs. 2 and 3. The stock required for them is oak, two pieces 30 in. by 5 in. by 1-1/4 in., two pieces 34 in. by 5 in. by 1-1/4 in., two pieces 14 in. by 6 in. by 2 in., and four pieces 14 in. by 2 in. by 1 in.
They should be put together with large screws about 3 in. long.
Use no nails, as they are not substantial enough. In proportioning them the points A, B and C, Fig. 2, are important. For the front runners these measurements are: A, 30 in.; B, 4 in.; C, 15-1/2 in., and for the rear runners: A, 34 in.; B, 7 in. ; C, 16-1/2 in.
The screw eyes indicated must be placed in a straight line and the holes for them carefully centered. A variation of 1/16 in. one way or another would cause a great deal of trouble. For the steel runners use 3/8 in. cold-rolled steel flattened at the ends for screw holes. Use no screws on the running surface, however, as they "s.n.a.t.c.h" the ice.
The mechanism of the front steering gear is shown at Fig. 3. A 3/4-in. steel rod makes a good steering rod. Flatten the steering rod at one end and sink it into the wood. Hold it in place by means of an iron plate drilled to receive the rod and screwed to block X. An iron washer, Z, is used to reduce friction; bevel block K to give a rocker motion. Equip block X with screw eyes, making them clear those in the front runner, and bolt through. For the rear runner put a block with screw eyes on the baseboard and run a bolt through.
Construct the auto front (Fig. 4) of 3/4-in. oak boards. The ill.u.s.tration shows how to shape it. Bevel it toward all sides and keep the edges sharp, as sharp edges are best suited for the bra.s.s tr.i.m.m.i.n.gs which are to be added. When the auto front is in place enamel the sled either a dark maroon or a creamy white. First sandpaper all the wood, then apply a coat of thin enamel. Let stand for three days and apply another coat. Three coats of enamel and one of thin varnish will make a fine-looking sled. For the bra.s.s tr.i.m.m.i.n.gs use No. 27 B. & S. sheet bra.s.s 1 in. wide on all the front edges and pieces 3 in. square on the cross bars to rest the feet against. On the door of the auto front put the monogram of the owner or owners of the sled, cutting it out of sheet bra.s.s.
For the steering-wheel procure an old freight-car "brake" wheel, bra.s.s plated. Fasten a horn, such as used on automobiles, to the wheel.
Make the cushion of leather and stuff it with hair. The best way is to get some strong, cheap material, such as burlap, sew up one end and make in
[Ill.u.s.tration: Construction a "Winner" Toboggan Sled]
the form of an oblong bag. Stuff this as tightly as possible with hair. Then get some upholstery b.u.t.tons, fasten a cord through the loop, bring the cord through to the underside of the cushion, and fasten the b.u.t.ton by slipping a nail through the knot. Then put a leather covering over the burlap, sewing it to the burlap on the under side. Make the cushion for the back in the same way. On top of the cushion supports run a bra.s.s tube to serve the double purpose of holding the cushion down and affording something to hold on to.
If desired, bicycle lamps may be fastened to the front end, to improve the appearance, and it is well to have a light of some kind at the back to avoid the danger of rear-end collisions.
The door of the auto front should be hinged and provided with a lock so that skates, parcels, overshoes, lunch, etc. may be stowed within. A silk pennant with a monogram adds to the appearance.
If desired, a brake may be added to the sled. This can be a wrought-iron lever 1-1/2 in. by 1/2 in. by 30 in. long, so pivoted that moving the handle will cause the end to sc.r.a.pe the ice. This sled can be made without lamps and horn at a cost of about $15, or with these for $25, and the pleasure derived from it well repays the builder. If the expense is greater than one can afford, a number of boys may share in the ownership.
** Burning Inscriptions on Trees
Sc.r.a.pe off the bark just enough to come to the first light under coating, which is somewhat moist. With a lead pencil make an outline of the inscription to be burnt on the tree and bring, the rays of a large magnifying gla.s.s not quite to a fine focus on the same. The tree will be burnt along the pencil marks, and if the gla.s.s is not held in one spot too long, the inscription will be burnt in as evenly as if it had been written.
--Contributed by Stewart H. Leland, Lexington, Ill.
** How to Make Small Gearwheels Without a Lathe [46]
To make small models sundry small gears and racks are required, either cut for the place or by using the parts from an old clock.
With no other tools than a hacksaw, some files, a compa.s.s,
[Ill.u.s.tration: Making Model Wheels]
and with the exercise of a little patience and moderate skill, very good teeth may be cut on blank wheels.
First take the case of a small gearwheel, say 1 in. outside diameter and 1/16 in. thick, with twenty-four teeth. Draw a circle on paper, the same diameter as the wheel. Divide the circ.u.mference into the number of parts desired, by drawing diameters, Fig. 1.
The distance AB will be approximately the pitch. Now describe a smaller circle for the base of the teeth and halfway between these circles may be taken as the pitch circle.
Now describe a circle the same size as the largest circle on a piece of 1/16-in. sheet metal, and having cut it out and filed it up to this circle, fasten the marked-out paper circle accurately over it with glue. Saw-cuts can now be made down the diameters to the smaller circle with the aid of a saw guide, Fig. 2, made from 1/16-in. mild steel or iron. This guide should have a beveled edge, E, from F to G, to lay along the line on which the saw-cut is to be made. The straight-edge, CD, should be set back one-half the thickness of the saw-blades, so that the center of the blade, when flat against it, will be over the line FG. A small clearance s.p.a.ce, FC, must be made to allow the teeth of the saw to pa.s.s.
The guide should then be placed along one of the diameters and held in position until gripped in the vise, Fig. 3. The first tooth may now be cut, care being taken to keep the blade of the saw flat up to the guiding edge. The Model Engineer, London, says if this is done and the saw-guide well made, the cut will be central on the line, and if the marking-out is correct the teeth will be quite uniform all the way round. A small ward file will be needed to finish off the teeth to their proper shape and thickness.
In making a worm wheel the cuts must be taken in a sloping direction, the slope and pitch depending on the slope and pitch of the worm thread, which, though more difficult, may also be cut with a hacksaw and file.
A bevel wheel should be cut in the same manner as the spur wheel, but the cut should be deeper on the side which has the larger diameter. To cut a rack the pitch should be marked along the side, and the guide and saw used as before (Fig. 4).
** How to Make Four Pictures on One Plate [46]
Secure two extra slides for the plate holders and cut one corner out on one
[Ill.u.s.tration: Four Photos on One Plate]
of them, as shown in Fig. 1. Make a hole in the other, as shown in Fig. 2. With a lead pencil draw on the ground gla.s.s one line vertical and one horizontal, each in the center. This will divide the ground gla.s.s into four equal parts.
Focus the camera in the usual manner, but get the picture desired to fill only one of the parts on the ground gla.s.s. Place the plate-holder in position and draw the regular slide; subst.i.tute one of the slides prepared and expose in the usual way.
If a small picture is to be made in the lower left-hand corner of the plate, place the prepared slide with the corner cut, as shown in Fig. 1. The slide may be turned over for the upper left hand corner and then changed for slide shown in Fig. 2 for the upper and lower right-hand corners.
** Electric Blue-Light Experiment [47]
[Ill.u.s.tration: Electric Blue-light]
Take a jump-spark coil and connect it up with a battery and start the vibrator. Then take one outlet wire, R, and connect to one side of a 2-cp. electric lamp, and the other outlet wire, B, hold in one hand, and press all fingers of the other hand on globe at point A. A bright, blue light will come from the wires in the lamp to the surface of the globe where the fingers touch. No shock will be perceptible.
** Interesting Electrical Experiment [47]
The materials necessary for performing this experiment are: Telephone receiver, transmitter, some wire and some carbons, either the pencils for arc lamps, or ones taken from old dry batteries will do.
Run a line from the inside of the house to the inside of some other building and fasten it to one terminal of the receiver. To the other terminal fasten another piece of wire and ground it on the water faucet in the house. If there is no faucet in the house, ground it with a large piece of zinc.
Fasten the other end to one terminal of the transmitter and from the other terminal of the same run a wire into the ground. The ground here should consist either of a large piece of carbon, or several pieces bound tightly together.