[Ill.u.s.tration: A Unique Battery]
If a person speak into the transmitter, one at the receiver can hear what is said, even though there are no batteries in the circuit. It is a well known fact that two telephone receivers connected up in this way will transmit words between two persons, for the voice vibrating the diaphragm causes an inductive current to flow and the other receiver copies these vibrations. But in this experiment, a transmitter which induces no current is used.
Do the carbon and the zinc and the moist earth form a battery?
--Contributed by Wm. J. Slattery, Emsworth, Pa.
** A Cheap Fire Alarm [47]
An electrical device for the barn that will give an alarm in case of fire is shown in the accompanying diagram. A is a wooden block, which is fastened under the loft at a gable end of the barn; B is an iron weight attached to the string C, and this string pa.s.ses up through the barn to the roof, then over a hook or pulley and across the barn, under the gable, and is fastened to the opposite end of the barn.
D D are binding posts for electric wires. They have screw ends, as shown, by which means they are fastened to the wooden block A.
They also hold the bra.s.s piece E and the strip of spring bra.s.s F in place against the wooden block. G is a leather strap fastened to the weight B and the spring F connected to the latter by a small sink bolt.
[Ill.u.s.tration: Electric Fire Alarm]
At the house an electric bell is placed wherever convenient.
Several battery cells, of course, are also needed. Dry batteries are most convenient. The battery cells and bell are connected in the usual manner, and one wire from the bell and one from the battery are strung to the barn and connected to the binding posts D D.
If a fire occurs in the hay-mow the blaze will generally shoot toward the gable soon after it starts, and will then burn the string C, which allows the weight B to fall and pull the bra.s.s spring against the iron piece E, which closes the circuit and rings the bell in the house.
If desired, the string may be stretched back and forth under the roof several times or drawn through any place that is in danger of fire.
--Contributed by Geo. B. Wrenn, Ashland, Ohio.
** How to Make a Small Electric Furnace [48]
Take a block of wood and shape into a core. One like a loaf of bread, and about that size, serves admirably. Wrap a layer of asbestos around it and cover this with a thin layer of plaster-of-paris. When the plaster is nearly dry wind a coil of No. 36 wire around it, taking care that the wire does not touch itself anywhere. Put another course of plaster-of-paris on this, and again wind the wire around it. Continue the process of alternate layers of plaster and wire until 500 ft. or more of the latter has been used, leaving about 10 in. at each end for terminals. Then set the whole core away to dry.
For a base use a pine board 10 in. by 12 in. by 1 in. Bore four holes at one end for binding-posts, as indicated by E E. Connect the holes in pairs by ordinary house fuse wire. At one side secure two receptacles, B B, and one single post switch, C. Place another switch at I and another binding-post at F. The oven is now ready to be connected.
Withdraw the wooden core from the coils of wire and secure the latter by bands of tin to the board. Connect the ends of the wire to binding-posts E and F, as shown. From the other set of binding-posts, E, run a No. 12 or No. 14 wire, connecting lamp receptacles, B B, and switch, C, in parallel. Connect these three to switch, D, in series with binding-post, F, the terminal of the coil. Place 16-cp. lights in the receptacles and connect the fuses with a 110-volt lighting circuit. The apparatus is now ready for operation. Turn on switch, D, and the lamps, while C is open. The coil will commence to become warm, soon drying out the plaster-of-paris. To obtain more heat
[Ill.u.s.tration: Electric Furnace]
open one lamp, and to obtain still more open the other and close switch C.
--Contributed by Eugene Tuttles, Jr., Newark, Ohio.
** How to Make an Ammeter [49]
Every amateur mechanic who performs electrical experiments will find use for an ammeter, and for the benefit of those who wish to construct such an instrument the following description is given: The operative principle
[Ill.u.s.tration: Complete Ammeter and Details]
of this instrument is the same as that of a galvanometer, except that its working position is not confined to the magnetic meridian. This is accomplished by making the needle revolve in a vertical instead of a horizontal plane. The only adjustment necessary is that of leveling, which is accomplished by turning the thumbscrew shown at A, Fig. 1, until the hand points to zero on the scale.
First make a support, Fig. 2, by bending a piece of sheet bra.s.s to the shape indicated and tapping for the screws CC. These should have hollow ends, as shown, for the purpose of receiving the pivoted axle which supports the hand. The core, Fig. 3, is made of iron. It is 1 in. long, 1/4 in. wide and 1/8 in. thick. At a point a little above the center, drill a hole as shown at H, and through this hole drive a piece of knitting-needle about 1/2 in. long, or long enough to reach between the two screws shown in Fig. 2. The ends of this small axle should be ground pointed and should turn easily in the cavities, as the sensitiveness of the instrument depends on the ease with which this axle turns.
After a.s.sembling the core as shown in Fig. 4, it should be filed a little at one end until it a.s.sumes the position indicated. The pointer or hand, Fig. 5, is made of wire, aluminum being preferable for this purpose, although copper or steel will do.
Make the wire 4-1/2 in. long and make a loop, D, 1/2 in. from the lower end. Solder to the short end a piece of bra.s.s, E, of such weight that it will exactly balance the weight of the hand. This is slipped on the pivot, and the whole thing is again placed in position in the support. If the pointer is correctly balanced it should take the position shown in Fig. 1, but if it is not exactly right a little filing will bring it near enough so that it may be corrected by the adjusting-screw.
Next make a bra.s.s frame as shown in Fig. 6. This may be made of wood, although bra.s.s is better, as the eddy currents set up in a conductor surrounding a magnet tend to stop oscillation of the magnet. (The core is magnetized when a current flows through the instrument.) The bra.s.s frame is wound with magnet wire, the size depending on the number of amperes to be measured. Mine is wound with two layers of No. 14 wire, 10 turns to each layer, and is about right for ordinary experimental purposes. The ends of the wire are fastened to the binding posts B and C, Fig. 1.
A wooden box, D, is then made and provided with a gla.s.s front. A piece of paper is pasted on a piece of wood, which is then fastened in the box in such a position that the hand or pointer will lie close to the paper scale. The box is 5-1/2 in. high, 4 in. wide and 1-3/4 in. deep, inside measurements. After everything is a.s.sembled put a drop of solder on the loop at D, Fig. 5, to prevent it turning on the axle.
To calibrate the instrument connect as shown in Fig. 7, where A is the homemade ammeter; B, a standard ammeter; C, a variable resistance, and D, a battery, consisting of three or more cells connected in multiple. Throw in enough resistance to make the standard instrument read 1 ohm [sic: ampere] and then put a mark on the paper scale of the instrument to be calibrated. Continue in this way with 2 amperes, 3 amperes, 4 amperes, etc., until the scale is full. To make a voltmeter out of this instrument, wind with plenty of No. 36 magnet wire instead of No. 14, or if it is desired to make an instrument for measuring both volts and amperes, use both windings and connect to two pairs of binding posts.
--Contributed by J.E. Dussault, Montreal.
** How to Make a Three-Way c.o.c.k for Small Model-Work [50]
[Ill.u.s.tration: Three-way Valve]
In making models of machines it is often necessary to contrive some method for a 3- or 4-way valve or c.o.c.k. To make one, secure a pet c.o.c.k and drill and tap hole through, as shown in the cut. If for 3-way, drill in only to the opening already through, but if for a 4-way, drill through the entire case and valve. Be sure to have valve B turned so as to drill at right angles to the opening through it. After drilling, remove the valve, take off the burr with a piece of emery paper and replace ready for work.
** Easy Experiments with Electric-Light Circuit [50]
An electric-light circuit will be found much less expensive than batteries for performing electrical experiments. The sketch shows how a small arc light and motor may be connected to the light socket, A. The light is removed and a plug with wire connections is put in its place. One wire runs to the switch, B, and the other connects with the water rheostat, which is used for reducing the current.
[Ill.u.s.tration: Arc-Light Motor and Water Rheostat]
A tin can, C is filled nearly to the top with salt water, and a metal rod, D, is pa.s.sed through a piece of wood fastened at the top of the can. When the metal rod is lowered the current increases, and as it is withdrawn the current grows weaker. In this way the desired amount of current can be obtained.
By connecting the motor, E, and the arc light, F, as shown, either one may be operated by turning switch B to the corresponding point. The arc light is easily made by fastening two electric light carbons in a wooden frame like that shown. To start the light, turn the current on strong and bring the points of the carbons together; then separate slightly by twisting the upper carbon and at the same time drawing it through the hole.
** How to Make an Interrupter [51]
The Wenult interrupter is an instrument much used on large coils and is far more efficient than the usual
[Ill.u.s.tration: Details of Interrupter]
form of vibrators. It can also be used with success on small coils as well as large. Although it is a costly instrument to purchase, it can be made with practically no expense and the construction is very simple.
First procure a wide-mouthed bottle about 4 in. high, provided with a rubber stopper. This stopper should be pierced, making two holes about 1/4 in. in diameter. From a sheet of lead 1/16 in. in thickness
[Ill.u.s.tration: The Completed Instrument]
cut a piece shaped like A, Fig. 1. Common tea lead folded several times will serve the purpose. When in the bottle this lead should be of such a size that it will only reach half way around, as shown in B. To insert the lead plate, roll it up so it will pa.s.s through the neck of the bottle, then smooth it out with a small stick until it fits against the side, leaving the small strip at the top projecting through the neck of the bottle. Bend this strip to one side and fit in the stopper, as shown in C. A small binding-post is fastened at the end of the strip.
Having fixed the lead plate in position, next get a piece of gla.s.s tube having a bore of about 1/32 of an inch in diameter. A piece of an old thermometer tube will serve this purpose. Insert this tube in the hole in the stopper farthest from the lead plate. Get a piece of wire that will fit the tube and about 6 in. long, and fasten a small binding-post on one end and stick the other into the tube. This wire should fit the hole in the tube so it can be easily moved. In the hole nearest the lead plate insert a small gla.s.s funnel.