A brilliant polish may be given to tarnished nickel by immersing in alcohol and 2 per cent of sulphuric acid from 5 to 15 seconds.
Take out, wash in running water, rinse in alcohol, and rub dry with linen cloth.
** Homemade Arc Light [112]
By rewinding an electric-bell magnet with No. 16 wire and connecting it in series with two electric-light carbons, as shown in the sketch, a small arc will be formed between the carbon points when the current is applied. In the sketch, A is the electric-bell magnet; B, the armature; C C, carbon sockets; D, carbons, and E E, binding posts. When connected with 10 or 12 dry batteries this lamp gives a fairly good light.
--Contributed by Morris L. Levy, San Antonio, Tex.
[Ill.u.s.tration: Arc Light]
** Lighting an Incandescent Lamp with an Induction Coil [112]
An incandescent lamp of low candlepower may be illuminated by connecting to an induction coil in the manner shown in the sketch.
One wire is connected to the metal cap of the lamp and the other wire is fastened to the gla.s.s tip. If the apparatus is then placed in the dark and the current turned on, a peculiar phosph.o.r.escent glow will fill the whole interior of the lamp. The induction coil used for this purpose should give a spark about 1/2 in. long or more.
--Contributed by Joseph B. Bell, Brooklyn.
[Ill.u.s.tration: Geissler Tube]
How to Make a Jump-Spark Coil [113]
The induction coil is probably the most popular piece of apparatus in the electrical laboratory, and particularly is it popular because of its use in experimental wireless telegraphy. Ten years ago wireless telegraphy was a dream of scientists; today it is the plaything of school-boys and thousands of grown-up boys as well.
Divested of nearly all technical phrases, an induction coil may be briefly described as a step-up transformer of small capacity. It comprises a core consisting of a cylindrical bundle of soft-iron wires cut to proper length. By means of two or more layers of No.
14 or No. 16 magnet wire, wound evenly about this core, the bundle becomes magnetized when the wire terminals are connected to a source of electricity.
Should we now slip over this electromagnet a paper tube upon which has been wound with regularity a great and continuous length of No. 36 magnet wire, it will be found that the lines of force emanating from the energized core penetrate the new coil-winding almost as though it were but a part of the surrounding air itself, and when the battery current is broken rapidly a second electrical current is said to be induced into the second coil or secondary.
All or any of the parts of an induction coil may be purchased ready-made, and the first thing to do is to decide which of the parts the amateur mechanic can make and which would be better to buy ready-made. If the builder has had no experience in coilwinding it would probably pay to purchase the secondary coil ready-wound, as the operation of winding a mile or more of fine wire is very difficult and tedious, and the results are often unsatisfactory. In ordering the secondary it is always necessary to specify the length of spark desired.
The following method of completing a 1-in. coil ill.u.s.trates the general details of the work. The same methods and circuits apply to small and larger coils. The ready-made secondary is in solid cylindrical form, about 6 in. long and 2-5/8 in. diameter, with a hole
[Ill.u.s.tration: Jump-Spark Coil]
through the winding 1-1/4 in. in diameter, as shown in Fig. 1. The secondary will stand considerable handling without fear of injury, and need not be set into a case until the primary is completed.
The primary is made of fine annealed No. 24 iron wire cut 7 in. or 8 in. in length, as the maker prefers, and bundled to a diameter of 7/8 in. The wires may be straightened by rolling two or three at a time between two pieces of hard wood. If the amateur has difficulty in procuring this wire, the entire core may be purchased ready-made.
After the core wires are bundled, the core is wrapped with one or two layers of manila paper. The straighter the wire the more iron will enter into the construction of the core, which is desirable.
Beginning half an inch from one end, No. 16 cotton-covered magnet wire is wound from one end to the other evenly and then returned, making two layers, and the terminals tied down to the core with twine. Core and primary are then immersed in boiling paraffine wax to which a small quant.i.ty of resin and beeswax has been added.
This same wax may be used later in sealing the completed coil into a box. Over this primary is now wrapped one layer of okonite tape, or same thickness of heavily sh.e.l.lacked muslin. This completed primary will now allow of slipping into the hole in the secondary.
Should the secondary have been purchased without a case, a wooden box of mahogany or oak is made, large enough to contain the secondary and with an inch to spare all around, with room also for a small condenser; but if it is not convenient to do this work, a box like that shown in Fig. 2 may be purchased at a small cost. A 7/8-in. hole is bored in the center of one end, through which the primary core projects 1/8 in. This core is to be used to attract magnetically the iron head of a vibrating interrupter, which is an important factor of the coil. This interrupter is shaped as in Fig. 4, and is fastened to the box in such a way that the vibrator hammer plays in front of the core and also that soldered connections may be made inside the box with the screws used in affixing the vibrator parts to the box. The condenser is made of four strips of thin paper, 2 yd. long and 5 in. wide, and a sufficient quant.i.ty of tinfoil. When cut and laid in one continuous length, each piece of tin-foil must overlap the adjoining piece a half inch, so as to form a continuous electrical circuit. In shaping the condenser, one piece of the paper is laid down, then the strip of tin-foil, then two strips of paper and another layer of foil, and finally the fourth strip of paper. This makes a condenser which may be folded, beginning at one end and bending about 6 in. at a time. The condenser is next wrapped securely with bands of paper or tape, and boiled in pure paraffine wax for one hour, after which it is pressed under considerable weight until firm and hard. One of the sheets of tin-foil is to form one pole of the condenser, and the other sheet, which is insulated from the first, forms the other pole or terminal. (This condenser material is purchasable in long strips, ready for a.s.sembling.)
The wiring diagram, Fig. 3, shows how the connections are made.
This method of connecting is suitable for all coils up to 1-1/2 in. spark, but for larger coil better results will be obtained by using an independent type of interrupter, in which a separate magnet is used to interrupt the circuit. Besides the magnetic vibrators there are several other types, such as the mercury dash-pot and rotary-commutator types, but these will become better known to the amateur as he proceeds in his work and becomes more experienced in coil operation.
** Combined Door Bell and Electric Alarm [114]
This device consists of a battery and bell connection to an alarm clock which also acts as a door bell, the whole being mounted on a board 18 in. long and 12 in. wide. Referring to the sketch accompanying this article, the letters indicate as follows: A, bell; B, battery ; C, switch; D, V-shaped copper strip; E, copper lever with 1-in. f.l.a.n.g.e turned on one side, whole length, 4 in.; F, spring to throw lever E down in V-shaped piece to make connection; G, lever to hold out E when device is used as a door bell; lines H, go, one from bell, A, and one from battery, B, to the door; I, shelf for clock.
See that the ring in the alarm key of the clock works easily, so that when it is square across the clock it will drop down. Fasten a piece of copper about
[Ill.u.s.tration: Wiring Disgram]
1 in. long to key, then wind the alarm just enough so that the key stands straight up and down. Place the clock on the shelf and the key under the f.l.a.n.g.e of lever E. Pull lever G down out of the way and close the lever on the switch. The alarm key will turn and drop down, letting lever E drop into the V-shaped piece D and make connection.
For the door-bell connection close lever on switch C, and put G up so that D and E do not come in contact. If anyone is ill and you do not want the bell to ring, open switch C.
The wiring for this device may all be on the back of the board.
The switch and levers are fastened with small screw bolts, which allows wiring at the back. Saw two spools in half and fasten the halves to the four corners of the board at the back, and the apparatus may be put up where one likes.
**v To Build a Small Bra.s.s Furnace [115]
Bend a piece of stout sheet iron 23 in. by 12 in. round so that the inside
[Ill.u.s.tration: Furnace]
diameter is 7 in., and then rivet the seam. Fit in a round piece of sheet iron for the bottom. Make a hole about the size of a shilling in the side, 2 in. from the bottom. This is for blowing.
Line the furnace, bottom and sides with fire-clay to a depth of 1/2 in. Use charcoal to burn and an ordinary bellows for blowing, says the Model Engineer, London. The best blast is obtained by holding the nozzle of the bellows about an inch from the hole, instead of close to it.
** Avoid Paper Lamp Shades [115]
Don"t wrap paper around a lamp for a shade. You might go away and forget it and a fire might be started from the heat. Use a gla.s.s or metal shade. That is what they are for.
** Why Gravity Batteries Fail to Work [115]
Many amateur electricians and some professionals have had considerable trouble with gravity batteries. They
[Ill.u.s.tration: Setting Up a Gravity Battery]
follow directions carefully and then fail to get good results.
The usual trouble is not with the battery itself, but with the circuit. A gravity battery is suitable only for a circuit which is normally closed. It is therefore undesirable for electric bells, induction coils and all other open-circuit apparatus. The circuit should also have a high resistance. This makes it impractical for running fan motors, as the motor would have to be wound with fine wire and it would then require a large number of batteries to give a sufficiently high voltage.
To set up a gravity battery: Use about 3-1/2 lb. of blue stone, or enough to cover the copper element 1 in. Pour in water sufficient to cover the zinc 1/2 in. Short-circuit for three hours, and the battery is ready for use. If desired for use immediately, do not short-circuit, but add 5 or 6 oz. of zinc sulphate.
Keep the dividing line between the blue and white liquids about 1/2 in. below the bottom of the zinc. If too low, siphon off some of the white liquid and add the same amount of water, but do not agitate or mix the two solutions. This type of battery will give about 0.9 of a volt, and should be used on a circuit of about 100 milli-amperes.