** A Skidoo-Skidee Trick [116]
In a recent issue or Popular Mechanics an article on "The Turning Card Puzzle" was described and ill.u.s.trated. Outside of the scientific side involved, herein I describe a much better trick.
About the time when the expression "skidoo" first began to be used I Invented the following trick and
[Ill.u.s.tration: How to Cut the Notches]
called it "Skidoo" and "Skidee," which created much merriment.
Unless the trick is thoroughly understood, for some it will turn one way, for others the opposite way, while for others it will not revolve at all. One person whom I now recall became red in the face by shouting skidoo and skidee at it, but the thing would not move at all, and he finally from vexation threw the trick into the fire and a new one had to be made. Very few can make it turn both ways at will, and therein is the trick.
Take a piece of hardwood 3/8 in. square and about 9 in. long. On one of the edges cut a series of notches as indicated in Fig. 1.
Then slightly taper the end marked B until it is nicely rounded as shown in Fig. 2. Next make an arm of a two-arm windmill such as boys make. Make a hole through the center or this one arm. Enlarge the hole slightly, enough to allow a common pin to hold the arm to the end B and not interfere with the revolving arm. Two or three of these arms may have to be made before one is secured that is of the exact proportions to catch the vibrations right.
To operate the trick, grip the stick firmly in one hand, and with the forward and backward motion of the other allow the first finger to slide along the top edge, the second finger along the side, and the thumb nail will then vibrate along the notches, thus making the arm revolve in one direction. To make the arm revolve in the opposite direction--keep the hand moving all the time, so the observer will not detect the change which the hand makes --allow the first finger to slide along the top, as in the other movement, the thumb and second finger changing places: e. g., In the first movement you scratch the notches with the thumb nail while the hand is going from the body, and in the second movement you scratch the notches with the nail of the second finger when the hand is coming toward the body, thus producing two different vibrations. In order to make it work perfectly (?) you must or course say "skidoo" when you begin the first movement, and then, no matter how fast the little arm is revolving when changed to the second movement you must say "skidee" and the arm will immediately stop and begin revolving in the opposite direction. By using the magic words the little arm will obey your commands instantly and your audience will be mystified. If any or your audience presume to dispute, or think they can do the same let them try it. You will no doubt be accused of blowing or drawing in your breath, and many other things in order to make the arm operate. At least it is amusing. Try it and see.
--Contributed by Charles Clement Bradley Toledo, Ohio.
** Effects of Radium [116]
Radium acts upon the chemical const.i.tuents of gla.s.s, porcelain and paper, imparting to them a violet tinge; changes white phosphorus to yellow, oxygen to ozone, affects photograph plates and produces many other curious chemical changes.
** Naval Speed Record [116]
On its official trial trip the British torpedo boat destroyer "Mohawk" attained the record speed of a little over 39 miles an hour.
** How to Enlarge from Life in the Camera [117]
Usually the amateur photographer gets to a point in his work where the miscellaneous taking of everything in sight is somewhat unsatisfying: There are many special fields he may enter, and one of them is photomicrography. It is usually understood that this branch of photography means an expensive apparatus. If the worker is not after too high a magnification, however, there is a very simple and effective means of making photomicrographs which requires no additional apparatus that cannot be easily and quickly constructed at home.
Reproduced with this article is a photograph of dandelion seeds -- a magnification of nine diameters or eighty-one times. The apparatus which produced this photograph consisted of a camera of fairly long draw, a means for holding it vertical, a short-focus lens, and, if possible, but not essential, a means for focusing that lens in a minute manner. On top of the tripod is the folding arrangement, which is easily constructed at home with two hinged boards, an old tripod screw, an old bed plate from a camera for the screw to fit in, and two sliding bra.s.s pieces with sets crews that may be purchased from any hardware store under the name of desk sliding braces. To the front board is attached a box, carrying the lens and the bed of the sliding object carrier, which can be moved forward and back by the rack and pinion, that also can be obtained from hardware stores. If the bed for the object carrier be attached to the bed of the camera instead of to the front board, the object carrier need have no independent movement of its own, focusing being done by the front and
[Ill.u.s.tration: Enlargement with a Camera]
back focus of the camera; but this is less satisfactory, particularly when accurate dimensions are to be determined, says the Photographic Times. This outfit need not be confined to seeds alone, but small flowers, earth, chemicals, insects, and the thousand and one little things of daily life--all make beautiful subjects for enlarged photographs. These cannot be made by taking an ordinary photograph and enlarging through a lantern. When a gelatine dry plate is magnified nine diameters, the grains of silver in the negative will be magnified also and produce a result that will not stand
[Ill.u.s.tration: Magnified Nine Diameters]
close examination. Photographs made by photomicrography can be examined like any other photographs and show no more texture than will any print.
** Steel Pen Used in Draftsman"s Ink Bottle Cork [117]
A steel pen makes an ideal subst.i.tute for a quill in the stopper of the draftsman"s ink bottle. The advantage of this subst.i.tute is that there is always one handy to replace a broken or lost pen, while it is not so with the quill.
--Contributed by George C. Madison, Boston, Ma.s.s.
** How to Make a Pilot Balloon [118]
By E. G.o.ddard Jorgensen
Unusual interest is being displayed in ballooning, and as it is fast becoming the favorite sport many persons would like to know how to construct a miniature balloon for making experiments. The following table will give the size, as well as the capacity and lifting power of pilot balloons:
Diameter. Cap. in Cu. Ft Lifting Power.
5 ft. 65 4 lb.
6 ft. 113 7 lb.
7 ft. 179 11 lb.
8 ft. 268 17 1b.
9 ft. 381 24 lb.
10 ft. 523 33 lb.
11 ft. 697 44 lb.
12 ft. 905 57 lb.
The material must be cut in suitable shaped gores or segments. In this article we shall confine ourselves to a 10-ft. balloon. If the balloon is 10 ft. in diameter, then the circ.u.mference will be approximately 3-1/7 times the diameter, or 31 ft. 5 in. We now take one-half this length to make the length of the gore, which is 15 ft. 7-1/2 in. Get a piece of paper 15 ft. 7-1/2 in. long and 3 ft. wide from which to cut a pattern, Fig. 1. A line, AB, is drawn lengthwise and exactly in the middle of the paper, and a line, CD, is drawn at right angles to AB and in the middle of the paper lengthways. The intersecting point of AB and CD is used for a center to ascribe a circle whose diameter is the same as the width of the paper, or 3 ft. Divide one-quarter of the circle
[Ill.u.s.tration: Pattern for Cutting the Segments]
into 10 equal parts and also divide one-half of the line AB in 10 equal parts. Perpendicular lines are drawn parallel with the line CD intersecting the division points made on the one-half line AB.
Horizontal and parallel lines with AB are drawn intersecting the division points made on the one-quarter circle and intersecting the perpendicular line drawn parallel with CD. A line is now drawn from B to E and from E to F, and so on, until all the intersecting lines are touched and the point C is reached. This will form the proper curve to cut the pattern. The paper is now folded on the line AB and then on the line CD, keeping the marked part on the outside. The pattern is now cut, cutting all four quarters at the same time, on the curved line from B to C. When the paper is unfolded you will have a pattern as shown in Fig. 2. This pattern is used to mark the cloth, and after marked is cut the same shape and size.
The cloth segments are sewed together, using a fine needle and No.
70 thread, making a double seam as shown in Fig. 3. When all seams are completed you will have a bag the shape shown in Fig. 4. A small portion of one end or a seam must be left open for inflating. A small tube made from the cloth and sewed into one end will make a better place for inflating and to tie up tightly.
It is now necessary to varnish the bag in order to make it retain the gas. Procure 1 gal. of the very best heavy body, boiled linseed oil and immerse the bag in it. The surplus oil is squeezed out by running the bag through an ordinary clothes wringer several times. The bag is now placed in the sun for a thorough drying. Put the remaining oil in a kettle with 1/8 lb. of beeswax and boil well together. This solution is afterward diluted with turpentine so it will work well. When the bag is dry apply this mixture by rubbing it on the bag with a piece of flannel. Repeat this operation four times,
[Ill.u.s.tration: Sewing Segments Together]
being sure of a thorough drying in the sun each time. For indoor coating and drying use a small amount of plumbic oxide. This will dry rapidly in the shade and will not make the oil hard.
Fill the bag with air by using a pair of bellows and leave it over night. This test will show if the bag is airtight. If it is not tight then the bag needs another rubbing. The next operation is to fill the bag with gas.
Hydrogen gas is made from iron and sulphuric acid. The amounts necessary for a 10-ft. balloon are 125 lb. of iron borings and 125 lb. of sulphuric acid. 1 lb. of iron, 1 lb. of sulphuric acid and 4 lb. of water will make 4 cu. ft. of gas in one hour. Secure two empty barrels of about 52 gal. capacity and connect them, as shown in Fig. 5, with 3/4-in. pipe. In the barrel, A, place the iron borings and fill one-half full of clear water. Fill the other barrel, B, with water 2 in. above the level of the water in barrel A. This is to give a water pressure head against foaming when the generator is in action. About 15 lb. of lime should be well mixed with the water in the barrel B. All
[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 5; The Hydrogen Generator]
joints must be sealed with plaster of Paris. Pour in one-half of the acid into the barrel, A, with the iron borings. The barrels are kept tight while the generation is going on with the exception of the outlet, C, to the bag. When the action is stopped in the generator barrel, A, let the solution run out and fill again as before with water and acid on the iron borings. The outlet, C, should be always connected with the bag while the generator is in action. The 3/4-in. pipe extending down into the cooling tank, B, should not enter into the water over 8 in. When filled with gas the balloon is ready for a flight at the will of the operator.
** How to Clean a Clock [119]
It is very simple to clean a clock, which may sound rather absurd.
For an amateur it is not always necessary to take the clock to pieces. With a little care and patience and using some benzine, a clean white rag, a sable brush and some oil a clock can be cleaned and put into first-cla.s.s running order. The benzine should be clean and free from oil. You can test benzine by putting a little on the back of the hand; if it is good it will dry off, leaving the hand quite clean, but if any grease remains on the hand, it is not fit to use.