The Challenge of the Dead.
by Stephen Graham.
The suns shines and a strong wind lifts the waves toward the land; the blue sea, in happy commotion, throws armfuls of white spray across the long stone breakwater which is called Zeebruges Mole. The white stone way goes two miles out to sea, and is swept by a marine healthiness.
Upon it at intervals stand the German guns with the ends of their barrels burst out like thistle-heads. They point o"er the sea; they have their armoured shelter on the inner side of which on the level with the gunner"s eye stand inscribed in neat German _schrift_ the distances to all places of importance within gunshot--greenish-yellow camouflaged German guns with something of the tiger in their expression. On the lee side of the Mole cling the giant sheds of hydroplanes--as it were, hooked to the side of the great stone wall. In the quieter water on this side of the Mole one sees jutting out of the fairway the tops of vessels sunk there in 1918, and near by is a tablet marking the spot where the landing-party of the _Vindictive_ made its daring raid upon the foe.
Zeebruges! A party of school-children in "croc" are being escorted along the way by nuns; the Smiths of Surbiton have scrawled their names on the guns. There is a half-way house on the Mole now where one drinks beer and buys a picture postcard, or at the base of the Mole and looking outward toward England, one may dine alfresco at a Grand Palace Hotel.
But what of that! The whole is sun-drowned and wind-swept and bare and open with a s.p.a.ciousness and grandeur which are ample for the soul. The breeze which blows from England slackens nothing ere it reaches those fields where the wild flowers and the rushes bloom.
The mind goes back to 1914 and that great October when Antwerp fell but Ypres was held--when the last transports rolled alongside this glorious Mole bearing the Seventh Division, soon to be called, in faith, immortal, because half its number was destroyed before the war was very old.
October fifth they sailed away Upon the salt sea"s raging spray And landed safe in Bruges bay Upon their way to Ypres.
They stepped up from the boats, new, ruddy, well equipped, intact--they rolled forward, with drums beating, o"er the Belgian land. Now all who ever will arrive in Zeebruges from o"er the sea will arrive after the Seventh Division. The war-pilgrim, paying his due of honour to those who came that day, cannot follow very far on their road unless he die also. If he chooses to follow any one soldier, will he not very likely come soon to the road"s end and a grey wooden cross where his soldier"s destiny dipped into eternity?
Follow, then, the many who ran in the great torch race of the war, where the spent runner handed the torch from his hand to another, who in turn ran with it blazing till he fell, thus from Zeebruges to Ypres; from Ypres, flaming, to Neuve Chapelle; from Neuve Chapelle, flaming, to Loos; then aflame to the defence of the Salient; then a long blaze to the sevenfold altar of the Somme ... man to man, unit to unit, period to period, till the November when the race was won.
Was it not characteristic of the old war that the "Contemptibles" of the Seventh, landing at Zeebruges, should at once be marched thirty miles in the wrong direction and then brought back by train. Antwerp was the beacon; Antwerp was not yet taken; the Naval Brigade was trying to save it. It was to fall, Zeebruges was to fall, Ostende itself was to fall--all very rapidly. When the boys got to Bruges it was rumoured that the Germans had had a set-back; when they got to Ostende they heard that Antwerp had been taken. When they got back to Bruges terror had seized the city. When they got to Ghent they took the Antwerp road--and then they came back, to Ypres.
The cobbled way to Bruges is not marked by destruction. The trees give shade, the houses stand, the fields are ploughed. Alice in an estaminet says she learned French from the French prisoners kept there--her bar used to be crowded with them. The Belfry of Bruges stands against the sky ahead--as if lifted out of the plain up to heaven itself.
You cross a ca.n.a.l which looks like a moat, and are in Bruges itself, a perfectly whole, undamaged, serene and peaceful city. Trams, shops, carts pulled by dogs, rows of estaminets, old gateways, old churches, and then the Grande Place. The broad market-place is empty, but one sits facing the great tower and listens to the ever-repeating chimes of the bells--silver in the evening hour. It is--no, it is impossible--yes, it is "The Rosary" which is being played by the bells. "_I ... strive ...
to kiss the Cross_," yells the steeple, and then goes plaintive and trickles tunefully away.
"Well, here I am and here I remain," says an old man sitting behind me with a coffee-gla.s.s which he has long since drained. "Till England becomes sane, I stay here."
"The cost of living is just as high in Peebles as in London," says a woman sitting opposite him.
"Mad everywhere," says the man. "What I"d like is a flat somewhere near Lancaster Gate, so as I could go out into Kensington Gardens and sit under the trees and smoke."
There was a pause.
Then the woman from Peebles ventured in a thin, small voice:
"I think that Peter Pan statue in Kensington is so sweet. It was put up in the night, wasn"t it?"
"Yes, it was; and isn"t Kensington a delightful place?" says the old man.
They gloated in silence over Kensington. The bells of the Belfry began selections from _Faust_. _Is there a war on?_ men used to ask facetiously. "There never was any war," says Bruges. The sound of the boots has long since died away, the _boots, boots, boots, boots, marching up and down again_, away, away--this city was not delivered unto the Angel of Death.
It"s a shady highway that goes eastward to Ostende. At the village of St. Andrews there is a first war memorial to Belgian soldiers who gave their lives in the war; and then you come to the open ground at Varssenaere where the 20th Brigade did outpost duty, the first resting-ground for many a man, if rest he could, on his first night on the terrain of war--Varssenaere, a mean red-brick village with estaminets and small shops. Next day "twas Steine and then Ostende.
October 9, 1914, they marched into Ostende station, crowded with wounded men who had been rushed down from the stricken front. Antwerp had fallen. The trains which brought the wounded down took the new army back--back to Bruges, on to Ghent, and tumbled it out into that great old city. The streets were full of refugees, but the khaki tide rolled forward through the crowds, past the cathedral, out by the Lokeren road, to meet the foe.
Ghent also is an undamaged city. Our airmen spared her; our cannon could not reach her. She was not taken by a.s.sault, but fell into the enemy"s hands. It is prosperous, all its factory chimneys are a-smoke. Cheap plenitude fills its shop windows. Its people are at work--or, rather, they are at work when there is not a _groodefeest_.
It is calm on the Lokeren road. You cannot hear the battle-thunder of that October now, the ominous and insistent and encroaching roaring of the monster who was just spitting and flashing fire at Ghent in those days. You can see with the mind"s eye the new army with its new boots and its sore feet and its loads of equipment. It did not carry bombs and it did not carry gas-masks, but it carried everything else. One can see the perplexed and anxious Staff looking at the _intelligence_ brought in--the Germans held nowhere, the Germans in vast numbers, truly ready and capable of sweeping the contemptibly little army into the sea, the Germans advancing everywhere. The order comes to retire.
Retire--retreat--might not the retreat from Antwerp resemble the retreat from Mons? It is retreat in any case. Back into Ghent; back, perhaps, to Bruges and to Ostende. No one talks of Ypres. The army does not yet know where Ypres is. However, they filed through Ghent, and it was once more boots, boots, boots, boots over the cobbled roads. It was midnight, and they traversed the whole broad metropolis--singing a song which has not been forgotten in all the intervening years.
But now it is midnight again, the night of the 1920 National Fete, and the whole population has got singing drunk and then screaming drunk on beer. Tens of thousands of men and women flock the streets. There are fireworks, there is music, there is dancing. The fronts of the estaminets have been taken out, and seats go from the bar to the middle of the street; long tables on trestles, and plank seats, have been put out; piles of shrimps litter the tables from end to end, and the yellow beer gleams as it streams. Tired children are ma.s.sed on the cathedral steps waiting for the fireworks to begin, and past those who sit surges a tireless crowd.
In the Groensel Maarkt a truly Dostoieffskian scene. A soldier with one arm, a diminutive woman with dislocated hips, and two children are singing Flemish songs to a ring of people of varying ages. The old soldier has a sheaf of leaflets with the words of the songs and sells them a penny a time, a small boy plays the concertina, "mother" sings all the while a murmuring sing-song which never rises or falls, and keeps time with her wasp-like waist, which seems to hang from the black hump of her hips and sways uncannily back and forth. Father with the one arm also sings all the while he sells, the little girl sings, and the boy playing the concertina sings also. To the tune of "Way Down in Tennessee" they sing:
Ik noem haar mijn everzwijn Mijn voddenmagazijn
They sing too, over and over again, a Flemish song about the war:
Nog niet genoeg dat hij Binst d"oorlog was in "t lij Tot overmaat huns laffe daad Der duitschers vol van haat...
and a haunting chorus which begins:
Hoe ... kan het bestaan Dat men een man, die gansch zijn plicht toch heeft gekweten
and gla.s.ses of beer pa.s.s over the heads of the audience to the singing family. All in a dark, empty market-place, with somebody"s statue looking down on the scene and many a tear softening human eyes.
The rockets shoot up to the height of the cathedral spire and break in coloured lights, the large catherine-wheels are lit, the children clap and chase one another for firework cases.
At two in the morning strings of men and women holding on to one another parade the streets and kick out with their legs, attempting to dance whilst they sing "Tipperary," "Marguerite," "Mademoiselle from Armentieres," "Hoe kan het bestaan," the new girls in knee-skirts with spindly legs, the old wives in longer heavier ones, exposing when they dance white baggy drawers like Canterbury bells. At four in the morning there are still ten thousand in the streets; men and women have made circles round trees and lamp-posts, and kick out as they try to roll round; knots of men and girls go staggering past with howls and yells; young Flemish fellows are squeezing girls of twenty and pressing down their cheeks with large-mouthed kisses. At six, in the heavenly radiance of a pure morning, pandemonium still rolls on.
Yes, it is good beer. The first gla.s.s of it on a hot day is refreshing--a flagon at lunch does not come amiss. But these men and women sat for hours pouring it in with floating shrimps--gla.s.ses, quarts, sitting on low seats with their legs apart, and visibly filling.
And this plenitude did not make them weary. _Au contraire_, beer got into their toes and their knees and their thighs and their fat arms and necks, and expressed itself at all points of the body. I suppose one good reason for running in queues was that all holding on to one another none could fall down. One of the reasons why the baccha.n.a.lia continued long after morning-life had supervened was that many had forgotten they had any homes and mostly did not know where they were.
What a night! Six years ago on that other night it was different.
Anxiety and foreboding throbbed in these streets. Belgian manhood in arms marched away. The British marched away, and by midnight the last soldier had gone. Suspense ... and then at two in the morning the first German, a motor-cyclist, armed, goggled, covered with dust, vigilant....
And from the dawn German order reigned in Ghent--no baccha.n.a.lias.
The army went out by night by many roads, making, however, for Bruges.
It fell back for the defence, perhaps, of Bruges and of Ostende.
Brussels had fallen, and Ghent--there was not much of Belgium left. The first morning out of Ghent saw the army at Somerghem, and the second at Thielt. So tired were the troops that at each halt in the night both officers and men, lying down by the roadside, fell asleep. At the halts the men b.u.mped into one another mechanically, like the trucks of a freight train coming to a sudden stop, and then they just tumbled down and snored.
Newly tarred barges loll slowly along the Bruges-Ghent ca.n.a.l, and there is a vista along the straight water to the belfry of Ghent and the cathedral. The sides of the ca.n.a.l are lush with verdure; health and happiness spread out from its banks. One would say also the war never was here. But in Somerghem the old church on the hill crowning the town has been blown up. Its tower gave a view for leagues around, and the Devil made good use of it when he had a chance and when he had done his task blew it up lest others should follow his example. The Germans evacuated the town just before the end of the war; the Belgian army bombarded it and placed a gas concentration there. It was retaken, but at the price of a most beautiful church. The inhabitants are all back.
They remember the Tommies and, of course, the Scots. The Gordons in their kilts made a lasting impression. Somerghem saw much war life before the enemy marched away, and German soldier life, with its violently repressive military discipline and its correspondingly lax morality, was rife. The more perfect their military obedience the less heed there was of G.o.d.
One sees in these parts not a few war-babies, and worse than these, for they are innocent enough, one sees war-children in adolescence. The numbers of depraved young girls is appalling. Perhaps there were many before the war, but they look rather like war products. How many of them there are in the beer-houses and backyards of the small towns! It is difficult to avoid adventures with them. Bertha and Martha, depraved little rascals, come running along the ca.n.a.l bank, one in clogs, one in stocking soles. They talk sc.r.a.ps of German and sc.r.a.ps of French, and make disgusting gestures and throw themselves about in hard, coa.r.s.e laughter. Martha is a strong and brazen little hussy with red face and fat little arms. Bertha is a soft-witted, pallid slip of a girl with full throat and weak lips. Both have long black finger-nails, both are in cotton rags; but Bertha has a large yellow festering wound on her ankle which she says was caused by a bit of shrapnel. Bertha is the younger. Martha may be sixteen; Bertha would be two years younger. And Martha would get Bertha into trouble. "Take Bertha!" she says continually, suggestively making signs. Poor war-children! When the war began Martha was ten and Bertha was eight. Martha was corrupted in it; pale, sickly, weak-lipped Bertha, with the shrapnel wound, perhaps not actually corrupted. When the wound had been examined and their nails cut they concluded they had met a doctor.
They scamper away at last. The dark water of the ca.n.a.l flows peacefully between banks of untarnished green. Nature is unqualified loveliness.
At Somerghem, however, behind this veil there has been war, there has been something of the curse. One begins to notice in old walls patches of new brick where sh.e.l.l-holes in human habitations have been cobbled.
Re-pointing is going on. The splash where the splinters of iron rived a whole house has been sought to be gently erased. The most virtuous work in the world! But it splashed on to the children too, and who can re-point the Berthas and the Marthas?
Enfin, the fair-sized town of Thielt, would-be picturesque but surprisingly shabby, not clean, not cleaned up, not quite like Belgium.
The dirtiest of all possible hotels, more like a billet than a hotel, unswept floors, smashed china, supper in a kitchen which does not gleam like housewife"s honour. It is a town unlike Ghent, unlike Bruges. It has not, however, been much sh.e.l.led. British and Belgian gunners seem to have had orders to spare friendly cities. But there is no doubt that Thielt was in the war. Half its present inhabitants are _revenants_, as the French call those pitiful spirits who return to the places where they used to live. Mine host fled to Paris in 1914, and did not make a fortune there; he talks bitterly of _Bosches_ and compensation. He is forty-six and set. Six years ago he felt a young man, he says, but to-day he is not ready to start anything new.
On then towards Roulers! "Tis in gloomier country and with poor people.
All high roads are under repair. If sh.e.l.ls spared Thielt, they did not spare the roads. Where British army leather beat the cobbles in that long march back from Ghent, whistling sh.e.l.ls touched later and blew up the ground that had been beneath their feet. The patient Flemish farmers hung on to their farms on each side of the sh.e.l.l-pitted road, and their cattle grazed in the fields with an equanimity that was sublime. For four years the cannon-thunder never ceased, and every night war flamed around the heavens, but the men on the soil remained true to the soil and drove straightly their ploughs.