QUILTS.--These are of various sizes and qualities, in accordance with the purposes to which they are to be applied. They are generally made of the outside material and the lining, (wadding or flannel being laid between,) and st.i.tched in diamonds or other devices. The st.i.tches must pa.s.s through the whole, and the edges of the quilt are to be secured by a binding proper for the purpose. They are best done in a frame.
BLANKETS.--These are bought ready prepared for use. It is sometimes advisable to work over the edges at the end, which should be done with scarlet worsted in a very wide kind of b.u.t.ton-hole st.i.tch.
SHEETS.--These are made of fine linen, coa.r.s.e linen, and calico. Linen sheets are in general to be preferred. The seam up the middle must be sewed as neat as possible, and the ends may either be hemmed or seamed: the latter is the preferable method. Sheets, and all bed-room linen, should be marked and numbered. To add the date of the year is also an advantage.
PILLOW COVERS.--These are made of fine or coa.r.s.e linen, and sometimes of calico. The material should be of such a width as to correspond with the length of the pillow. One yard and three nails, doubled and seamed up, is the proper size. One end is seamed up, and the other hemmed with a broad hem, and furnished with strings or b.u.t.tons, as is deemed most convenient. We think the preferable way of making pillow covers is to procure a material of a sufficient width when doubled, to admit the pillow. The selvages are then sewn together, and the ends seamed and hemmed, as before directed. Bolster covers are made in nearly the same manner, only a round patch is let into one end, and a tape slot is run into the other.
TOWELS.--Towels are made of a diaper or huckaback, of a quality adapted to the uses to which they are applicable. They should be one yard long, and about ten or twelve nails wide. The best are bought single, and are fringed at the ends. Others are neatly hemmed, and sometimes have a tape loop attached to them, by which they can be suspended against a wall.
DRESSING TABLE COVERS.--These may be made of any material that is proper for the purpose. Fine diaper generally, but sometimes dimity and muslin are employed, or the table is covered with a kind of Ma.r.s.eilles quilting which is prepared expressly for the purpose. Sometimes the covers are merely hemmed round, but they look much neater if fringed, or bordered with a moderately full frill. Sometimes a worked border is set on. All depends upon taste and fancy. A neat and genteel appearance in accordance with the furniture of the apartment, should be especially regarded.
PINCUSHION COVERS.--A large pincushion, having two covers belonging to it, should belong to each toilet table. The covers are merely a bag into which the cushion is slipped. They may be either worked or plain, and should have small ta.s.sels at each corner, and a frill or fringe all round.
TABLE LINEN.--This department of plain needlework comprises table cloths, dinner napkins, and large and small tray napkins.
TABLE CLOTHS.--These may be purchased either singly or cut from the piece. In the latter case, the ends should be hemmed as neatly as possible.
DINNER NAPKINS.--These are of various materials; if cut from the piece, they must be hemmed at the ends the same as table cloths. Large and small tray napkins, and knife-box cloths, are made in the same manner.
The hemming of all these should be extremely neat. It is a pretty and light employment for very young ladies; and in this way habits of neatness and usefulness may be formed, which will be found very beneficial in after life.
PANTRY LINEN.--In this department you will have to prepare pantry cloths, dresser cloths, plate basket cloths, china, gla.s.s, and lamp cloths, and ap.r.o.ns. Pantry knife-cloths should be of a strong and durable material. The dresser cloths, or covers, look neat and are useful. They are generally made of huckaback of moderate fineness; but some ladies prefer making them of a coa.r.s.er kind of damask. The plate basket cloth is a kind of bag, which is put into the plate basket to prevent the side from becoming greased or discolored. They are made of linen, which is well fitted to the sides, and a piece the size and shape of the bottom of the basket, is neatly seamed in. The sides are made to hang over the basket, and are drawn round the rim by a tape, run into a slit for that purpose. China cloths, and also gla.s.s cloths, are to be made of fine soft linen, or diaper; and the cloths used in cleaning lamps, &c., must be of flannel, linen, or silk. All these articles are to be made in the same manner, that is, hemmed neatly at the ends; or if there be no selvages, or but indifferent ones, all round. Nothing looks more slovenly than ragged or unhemmed cloths, which are for domestic use. Little girls of the humbler cla.s.ses might be employed by the more affluent, in making up those articles and a suitable remuneration be given them. They would thus become more sensible of the value of time, and would contract habits of industry, which would be of essential service to them in the more advanced stages of their progress through life. A fair price paid for work done, either by a child or an adult, is far preferable to what is called charity. It at once promotes industry, and encourages a spirit of honest independence, which is far removed from unbecoming pride, as it is from mean and sneaking servility. Benevolence is the peculiar glory of woman; and we hope that all our fair readers will ever bear in mind, that real benevolence will seek to enable the objects of its regard to secure their due share of the comforts of life, by the honest employment of those gifts and talents, with which Providence may have endowed them.
HOUSEMAID AND KITCHEN LINEN.--The next subject to which the attention of the votress of plain needlework ought to be directed, is the preparation of housemaid and kitchen linen. On these subjects, a very few general observations will be all that is necessary. In the housemaid"s department, paint cloths, old and soft, and chamber-bottle cloths, fine and soft, are to be provided. To these must be added, dusters, flannels for scouring, and chamber bucket cloths, which last should be of a kind and color different from any thing else. All these must be neatly hemmed and run, or seamed, if necessary. Nothing in a well directed family should bear the impress of neglect, or be suffered to a.s.sume an untidy appearance. Clothes bags of different sizes, should also be provided, of two yards in length, and either one breadth doubled, in which case only one seam will be required; or of two breadths, which makes the bag more suitable for large articles of clothing. These bags are to seamed up neatly at the bottom, and to have strings which will draw, run in at the top. The best material is canvas, or good, strong unbleached linen. In the kitchen department, you will require both table and dresser cloths; which should be made as neat as possible. Long towels, of good linen, and of a sufficient length, should be made, to hang on rollers; they are generally a full breadth, so that hemming the sides is unnecessary. They should be two yards long, when doubled, and the ends should be secured strongly and neatly together. If the selvage is bad, the best way is to hem it at once. Kitchen dusters, tea cloths, and knife cloths, may be made of any suitable material; but in all cases let the edges be turned down, and neatly sewed or overcast.
PUDDING CLOTH.--This should be made of coa.r.s.e linen, neatly hemmed round, furnished with strings of strong tape, and marked.
JELLY BAG.--This is made of a half square, doubled so as to still form a half square. The top must be hemmed, and be furnished with three loops, by which it is to be suspended from the frame when in use.
Some miscellaneous instructions, which could not otherwise be introduced, are to be found in the concluding chapter.
CHAPTER V.
PLAIN NEEDLEWORK.
MISCELLANEOUS INSTRUCTIONS.
BINDING.--Various kinds of work have binding set on to them in preference to hemming them, or working them in herring-bone st.i.tch.
Flannel is generally bound; sometimes with a thin tape, made for that purpose, and called "flannel binding." It is also common to bind flannel with sarcenet ribbon. The binding is so put on, as to show but little over the edge on the right side, where it is hemmed down neatly; on the other side, it is run on with small st.i.tches.
BRAIDING.--Silk braid looks pretty, and is used for a variety of purposes. In putting it on, it is best to sew it with silk drawn out of the braid, as it is a better match, and the st.i.tches will be less perceived.
MARKING.--It is of essential importance that cloths should be marked and numbered. This is often done with ink, but as some persons like to mark with silk, we shall describe the st.i.tch. Two threads are to be taken each way of the cloth, and the needle must be pa.s.sed three ways, in order that the st.i.tch may be complete. The first is aslant from the person, toward the right hand; the second is downward, toward you: and the third is the reverse of the first, that is, aslant from you toward the left hand. The needle is to be brought out at the corner of the st.i.tch, nearest to that you are about to make. The shapes of the letters or figures can be learnt from an inspection of any common sampler.
PIPING.--This is much used in ornamenting children"s and other dresses.
It is made by inclosing a cord, of the proper thickness, in a stripe of silk, cut the cross-way, and must be put on as evenly as possible.
PLAITING.--The plaits must be as even as it is possible to place them, one against another. In double plaiting they lie both ways, and meet in the middle.
TUCKS.--These require to be made even. You should have the breadth of the tuck, and also the s.p.a.ce between each, notched on a card. They look the best run on with small and regular st.i.tches. You must be careful to take a back-st.i.tch constantly, as you proceed.
MAKING b.u.t.tONS.--Cover the wire with a piece of calico, or other material of the proper size; turn in the corners neatly, and work round the wire in b.u.t.ton-hole st.i.tch; work the centre like a star.
Some may think that we have been too minute; but we were desirous to omit nothing that could be generally useful; and we have had regard also to those ladies who, having been under no necessity of practising plain needlework in their earlier years, are desirous of preparing articles for their humbler fellow creatures, or by the sale of which, they procure more ample supplies for the funds of charity. We have good reason to believe, that many well-disposed persons would be glad, in this way, to aid the cause of humanity--and to devote a portion of their leisure hours to the augmenting of the resources of benevolence--but they are dest.i.tute of the practical experience necessary to enable them to do so. To all such, we hope our little manual will be an acceptable offering, and enable them, by a judicious employment of the means and talents committed to their trust, to realize the truth of the saying of the wise man, "There is that scattereth and yet increaseth."
DIAGRAM.
___________________________________________________ | 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 9 | 10 | |----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----| | 11 | 12 | 13 | 14 | 15 | 16 | 17 | 18 | 19 | 20 | |----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----| | 21 | 22 | 23 | 24 | 25 | 26 | 27 | 28 | 29 | 30 | |----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----| | 31 | 32 | 33 | 34 | 35 | 36 | 37 | 38 | 39 | 40 | |----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----| | 41 | 42 | 43 | 44 | 45 | 46 | 47 | 48 | 49 | 50 | |----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----| | 51 | 52 | 53 | 54 | 55 | 56 | 57 | 58 | 59 | 60 | |----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----| | 61 | 62 | 63 | 64 | 65 | 66 | 67 | 68 | 69 | 70 | |----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----| | 71 | 72 | 73 | 74 | 75 | 76 | 77 | 78 | 79 | 80 | |----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----| | 81 | 82 | 83 | 84 | 85 | 86 | 87 | 88 | 89 | 90 | |----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----| | 91 | 92 | 93 | 94 | 95 | 96 | 97 | 98 | 99 |100 | |----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----| |101 |102 |103 |104 |105 |106 |107 |108 |109 |110 | |----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----| |111 |112 |113 |114 |115 |116 |117 |118 |119 |120 | ---------------------------------------------------
In order to render the elementary st.i.tches of fancy needle-work as easy of acquirement as possible, we subjoin the following diagram; any lady will thus be able to form the various st.i.tches, by simply taking a piece of canvas, and counting the corresponding number of threads, necessary to form a square like the diagram; she will perceive the lines represent the threads of the canvas, the squares numbered being the holes formed by the intersection of the threads; and following the directions given in the accompanying chapter, she will soon be able to work any patterns here exhibited, and such new ones as her inventive genius may lead her to design.
CHAPTER VI.
FANCY NEEDLEWORK.
EXPLANATION OF St.i.tCHES.
The Art of Fancy Needlework is closely allied to the sister ones of Painting and Design; and appears to have been well understood amongst the most polished nations of antiquity. We know that the art was practised with considerable success, by the Babylonians, Egyptians, Persians, and Arabians, as well as by the Greeks and Romans. The Jews brought the art of needlework with them, out of Egypt, as we learn from the directions for building the Tabernacle, and preparing the holy garments; and Sidon is celebrated for the rich wares of broidered cloths, in which part of her extensive traffic consisted. In more modern times, we find the fair hands of the ladies of Europe employed in depicting the events of history, in tapestry, of which the much celebrated Bayeux tapestry--supposed to have been wrought by Matilda, the beloved wife of William the Norman--detailing the various occurrences in the life of Harold, from his arrival in Normandy, to the fatal battle of Hastings, is a standing proof. Ladies of high rank employed themselves thus, for various purposes, previous to the reformation; and it is a fact, worthy of especial notice, that in those ages, when it has been required for the adornment of the temples, and the encouragement of honorable valor and has thus become a.s.sociated with the sanctifying influences of religion and manly virtue, it has flourished most.[64-*] Queen Adelicia, wife of Henry I.; Ann, queen of France; Catherine, of Aragon; Lady Jane Grey; Mary Queen of Scots; and Queen Elizabeth, all excelled in this delightful art. At the Reformation, or soon after that event, needlework began sensibly to decline, and continued to do so, until the commencement of the present century. At that time, a new and elevated development of mind began to appear, which was accompanied by a very visible advancement in every department of arts and sciences. This revival of the fine arts, like the mental and sacred gushing forth of mind, which gave it birth, was often in extremely bad taste; but as the latter becomes more purified and exalted, the former advances in improvement--mind a.s.serts its superiority over matter, and infuses into the useful and ornamental, a living spirit of moral affection and enlightened sentiment. The year 1800 gave to the world, the celebrated Berlin patterns; but it was not until a lapse of thirty years, that their merits became generally appreciated; but now, such is the perfection attained in the cultivation of the art of needlework, that some of its productions, for delicacy and expression, may almost bear comparison with painting in oil.
[Ill.u.s.tration]
TENT St.i.tCH.--Work the cross way of the canvas, bringing your needle up through the diagram, No. 2 down 11, one st.i.tch; up 3 down 12, up 4 down 13, and so continue to the end. This st.i.tch is proper for grounding, and for groups of flowers; but in the latter case, it will produce the best effect if the flowers are done in tent st.i.tch, and the grounding in tent cross st.i.tch (which is the same as tent st.i.tch, only crossed.)
[Ill.u.s.tration]
CROSS St.i.tCH.--Is the same as marking st.i.tch; bring your needle up 21 down 3, up 23 down 1, one st.i.tch, up 41 down 23, up 43 down 21, and so continue till your work is finished. All the st.i.tches must incline to the right, or the work will appear imperfect and unsightly.
[Ill.u.s.tration]
DOUBLE CROSS St.i.tCH.--This is a st.i.tch very easy of execution. Bring your needle up No. 41, over four threads, down 5, up 1 down 45, up 43 down 25, up 3 down 25, up 3 down 21, up 43 down 21, one st.i.tch. Four, six, or eight threads may be taken in depth, and two in width, according as taste may suggest. This is an admirable st.i.tch for large pieces of work. Gold thread introduced between each row is a desirable addition to its attractive beauty.
[Ill.u.s.tration]
STRAIGHT CROSS St.i.tCH.--This is a new invention, and has a pretty appearance. Bring your needle up No. 11 down 13, up 2 down 22, one st.i.tch; up 31 down 33, up 22 down 42, and so on in like manner, till the work is finished.
[Ill.u.s.tration]
DOUBLE STRAIGHT CROSS St.i.tCH.--Bring your needle up No. 3 down 43, up 21 down 25, up 14 down 32, up 12 down 34, one st.i.tch. Owing to the number of times the wool is crossed, each st.i.tch has a very bead-like appearance. A piece wholly worked in this, has an admirable effect.
[Ill.u.s.tration]