GOBELIN St.i.tCH.--This truly beautiful st.i.tch is especially calculated for working on canvas traced with flowers, leaves, &c.; and also for working designs, copied from oil paintings. Bring your needle up No. 2 down 21, one st.i.tch, up 3 down 22, up 4 down 23, and so on to the end of the row. The st.i.tches may be taken either in height or width, as may best accord with the taste, or with the subject represented.

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BASKET St.i.tCH.--This is the same as Irish st.i.tch, but the arrangement is different. Work three st.i.tches over two threads; these are called short st.i.tches; and then the long ones are formed by working three over six threads, the centre of which are the two on which the short st.i.tches were worked. Thus you must continue the short and long st.i.tches alternately, until you have finished the row. In the next, the long st.i.tches must come under the short ones; and this diversity must be kept up until all the rows are completed. To finish the pattern, you have only to run a loose film of wool under the long st.i.tches on each of the short ones, and the task is done.

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IRISH St.i.tCH.--This is the production of an Irish lady of high rank.

Bring your needle up No. 1 over four threads down 41, one st.i.tch back two threads, up 22 down 62, up 43 (observe this is in a line with 41) down 83, up 64 (in a line with 62) down 104, up 102 down 62, up 81 down 41, continuing thus over the square. The s.p.a.ces left between every other st.i.tch must be filled up with half st.i.tches; for instance, up 81 down 101, up 83 down 103. It is also sometimes worked covering six and eight threads of the canvas at a time, coming back three or four threads, in the same proportion as the directions given. This st.i.tch is proper for grounding, when the design is worked in tent or cross st.i.tch; and the effect would be heightened by two strongly contrasted shades of the same color. It can be applied to a great variety of devices, diamonds and vand.y.k.es for example, and many others which will suggest themselves to the fair votaries of this delightful art. It looks pretty, and is easy of execution.

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FEATHER St.i.tCH.--This, as its name implies, has a light and feathery appearance, and will be found proper for any work in which lightness should predominate. You must proceed as in tent st.i.tch, and work over twelve threads or less, but not more; then bring your needle out one thread below, and cross on each side of your straight st.i.tch: you must so continue, taking care to drop a thread in height and keeping the bottom even with the long st.i.tch with which you began. Thus proceed until you have ten threads on the cross, which will make a square: of course you must, in the same manner, form all the squares necessary to complete the row. You can vary the pattern considerably by making the edges irregular, which is done by lowering your slant st.i.tches, the first one two, and the next one thread, and so proceeding. This will, in our opinion, improve the appearance of the work. You can introduce as many shades as you please, only taking care that a proper contrast is duly preserved. You finish by st.i.tching up the centre of each row on a single thread. For this purpose, silk or gold thread may be introduced with advantage. It should be remarked, that each row must be worked the contrary way to the one that preceded it, so that the wide and narrow portions may meet and blend with each other.

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POINT St.i.tCH.--To work this st.i.tch, take four threads straight way of the canvas, and bring the needle three steps up, and so proceed until your point is of a sufficient depth. This st.i.tch looks pretty, worked in different and well contrasted shades, and may be applied to many useful and ornamental purposes.

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QUEEN St.i.tCH.--Work over four threads in height and two in width, crossing from right to left, and back again. Finish each row by a st.i.tch across, between them, taking a thread of each, and, of course, working upon two threads. This is a very neat st.i.tch.

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QUEEN"S VANd.y.k.e.--This is supposed to be the invention of Princess Clementina, one of the daughters, we believe of a king of France. Take twelve threads, and reduce two each st.i.tch, until the length and breadth are in conformity. It can be introduced into a variety of work, and looks well.

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SINGLE PLAIT St.i.tCH.--Pa.s.s the needle across the canvas through two threads, from right to left; you then cross four threads downward, and pa.s.s the needle as before; then cross upward over two threads aslant, and again pa.s.s over four threads, always working downward, and pa.s.sing the needle from right to left, across two threads, until the row is completed as far as you desire.

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DOUBLE PLAIT St.i.tCH.--This st.i.tch is from left to right across four threads aslant downward, and crossed from right to left, the needle pa.s.sing out at the left, in the middle of the four threads just crossed, and so continue working downward, until you have finished the pattern.

VELVET St.i.tCH.--This is a combination of cross st.i.tch and queen st.i.tch, and is very ornamental when properly done. You work in plain cross st.i.tch three rows, then leave three threads, and again work three rows as before; thus proceed until your canvas is covered, leaving three threads between every triple row of cross st.i.tch. Then across the rows work in queen st.i.tch with double wool; but instead of taking two distinct threads for each st.i.tch, you may take one thread of the preceding st.i.tch; this will give an added thickness to your work. It will be advisable to work the wool over slips of card or parchment, as doing so will make it better to cut. If you work it in squares, they should not be larger than seventeen st.i.tches; and to look well, they must each be placed the contrary way to the other.

ALGERINE WORK.--This work much resembles a Venetian carpet, but is finer; it looks best done in very small patterns. It is worked over cotton piping cord, the straight way of the corners; the st.i.tches are over three threads. Your work as in raised work, putting the colors in as you come to them, and counting three st.i.tches in width, as one st.i.tch when you are working Berlin pattern. The paper canvas is No. 45 and the cord No. 00. It is proper for table mats and other thick kinds of work.

TO FILL UP CORNERS.--Work in any st.i.tch you prefer and shade in accordance with the subject. In these, and ornamental borders, &c., there is much room for the development of taste and judgment. In all that, you undertake, it will be well for you to recollect, that nothing is lost by taking time to think. However trivial and unimportant our actions may be, they should always be preceded by mature deliberation. A habit of thought once established will remain through life, and protect its possessor from the countless miseries of rash actions, and the agonies of remorse and unavailable repentance.

FOOTNOTES:

[64-*] The presentation of an embroidered scarf was a common mark of approval in the ages of chivalry.

CHAPTER VII.

FANCY NEEDLEWORK.

EXPLANATION OF PATTERNS.

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THE BEAUFORT STAR.--This is a beautiful pattern, and will look well, as a centre, for any moderately-sized piece of work. Begin on the width of the canvas, and take twelve threads, reducing at every st.i.tch, one thread for six rows, and thus continue decreasing and increasing alternately, to form squares like diamonds, to the end of the row. The next row is performed in the same manner, only you work on the long way of the canvas. Introduce gold or silver thread between where the st.i.tches join, and so finish.

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CHESS PATTERN.--Work a square in cross st.i.tch, with three st.i.tches, making three of a dark shade and six of white, working as many squares as you require, and leaving s.p.a.ces equal to those occupied by cross st.i.tch, which you must fill up with Irish st.i.tch, working across the canvas. You can employ any color that will harmonize well with the cross st.i.tch; and to complete the pattern, you must work a single st.i.tch across each square, in Irish st.i.tch.

DICE PATTERN.--This is formed by working rows of eight st.i.tches, in any color you please. You must here have four shades, and work two st.i.tches in each shade. Commence a st.i.tch, over ten threads, and drop one each time, until you have taken eight st.i.tches; the intermediate s.p.a.ces are for the ground, which must contrast with the pattern; and the introduction of a little gold or silver thread, would be an improvement.

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DOUBLE DIAMOND, IN LONG St.i.tCH.--This pattern, when it is worked in two colors strongly contrasted, and the diamonds composed of beads, is exceedingly beautiful. The shades of scarlet and blue, on a white or black ground, produce the most agreeable effect.

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GERMAN PATTERN.--There is a Gothic grandeur and sobriety about this pattern which gives to it a n.o.ble and grave aspect. It is worked in Irish st.i.tch, six threads straight down the second row, falling about four st.i.tches below the first; the third, the same below the second; the fourth and fifth the same number below the third; the next three the same; and then six in the same proportion. You then increase, and so render the arch uniform. The pattern then looks like the head of a Gothic column reversed; and the centre should be so disposed as to produce the best effect: those for the first and last row must be of the same tint; and the same rule applies to all the rest. A lady can, of course, choose her own colors; but care must be had to blend the alternate light and dark shades so as to produce a natural harmony.

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IRISH DIAMOND.--This is beautiful, and is very easy of execution.

Commence with two threads, and increase to fourteen, working across the canvas, and increasing one thread each way; then decrease to two in the same manner; and so proceed, until the row is completed. Begin the next row two threads down the canvas, and place a gold or steel bead in the centre of each diamond. Finish with a bordering of gold twist, or mother of pearl.

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LACE.--This is a new invention, and is somewhat difficult of execution.

The recognized material is a black Chantilly silk. It is mostly worked from Berlin patterns, and may be done either in cross st.i.tch, or in straight st.i.tch pattern: the edge is finished in cross st.i.tch with wool.

You may imitate a pearl border, by taking two threads directly behind the border. It is used for sofa pillows, &c., to which it forms a very pretty termination indeed.

HEART PATTERN.--This pattern looks well. Pa.s.s the wool over ten threads in the centre, then make four additional st.i.tches of ten threads, dropping one each time from the top, and taking one up at the bottom; then take the sixth st.i.tch, dropping a thread at the top as before, but keeping the bottom even with the fifth st.i.tch; your seventh st.i.tch must be in six threads, decreasing two both at the top and bottom; and your last will be on two threads, worked in the same manner: then proceed to form the other half of the pattern. The hearts may be worked in various shades of the same color, and the s.p.a.ce between them is to filled up with a diamond, or with an ornament in gold twist, or pearl.

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PRINCESS ROYAL.--Work this in rows of st.i.tches over four and two threads alternately, leaving one thread between each st.i.tch: begin the next row two threads down, with a st.i.tch over two threads, and proceed as before.

Work in two strongly contrasted shades, and fill in the vacancies with gold or pearl beads.

ROMAN PATTERN.--The material to be used, in working the pattern, is purse twist; and the grounding may be done in gobelin or tent st.i.tch.

The pattern is to be worked in three shades, of the same color; the centre forming a diamond in the lightest shade, then the next, and lastly the darkest to form a broad outline. This kind of work is done quickly, and presents a rich appearance.

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RUSSIAN PATTERN.--This is worked in rows across the canvas, in st.i.tches of irregular lengths, and has a pleasing effect. Pa.s.s the first st.i.tch over sixteen threads, the second over twelve, the third over sixteen, and so proceed to the seventh row, which is the centre. Pa.s.s the st.i.tch over eighteen threads, and proceed as before for six rows; leave a s.p.a.ce of four threads, and commence as at first. Form the second row in the same manner, leaving four threads between the longest st.i.tches in each row: the rows may be worked in any number of shades, taking care to preserve uniformity, and the s.p.a.ces must be filled in with a diamond, worked in the same manner, but reduced in size, and in one color; or it may be worked in gold thread, which would greatly relieve the monotonous appearance of the pattern. It will be best to begin and finish each row with a half diamond.

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