All this changed because of a fortunate accident that happened near where Frank grew up on the Eastern Sh.o.r.e of Maryland. In 1923, when Mrs. Wilmer Steele, of nearby Suss.e.x County, was ordering baby chicks for her laying flock, someone processing the order got a zero wrong.

Instead of the 50 chicks she was counting on, Mrs. Steele received 500 baby chicks. She found herself faced with the twin problems of first, the expense of feeding so many birds, and second, the ha.s.sle of trying to sell more eggs than the market in Suss.e.x County could possibly absorb.

The solution she came up with changed the eating patterns not just of Suss.e.x County, but of most of the world as well. It also had a lot to do with Frank"s future career. Up until then, chicken production was no more than an adjunct to egg production and when someone had chicken to eat, it was most likely a "spent hen," a tough old bird which no longer laid a sufficient number of eggs to pay her feed costs. Mrs. Steele transformed all this by deciding to sell all her extra baby chicks for meat when they were only a few months old and hadn"t yet cost her too much in feed.

The young and tender meat from these birds made them an instant success. Consumers loved them, and Mrs. Steele discovered that raising chickens entirely for meat rather than for producing eggs, was a lucrative business.

Other egg producers, including Frank and his father, Arthur W. Perdue, eventually switched over to growing chickens for meat rather than for eggs. Progressive farmers like the Perdues were soon breeding their chickens for larger size, faster growth, and better conversion of feed to meat$something no one had thought about when chickens were grown only for egg production. As a result of this specialization, the poultrymen were able to bring the cost of chicken down far enough so that it became affordable for everyone.

These changes literally transformed our eating habits.

In 1923, we Americans didn"t consume a pound of broiler chicken per person in a year; today we"re eating about 70 pounds each per year. And where once only the rich could feature chicken for a holiday meal, now everyone can and many do.

The holiday recipes that follow were developed by the Perdue home economists. You"ll find them arranged by date, beginning with January. I"ve included the sample menus that accompanied the original recipes. My favorite among them is the Fourth of July menu that comes from Frank"s family.

CHINESE NEW YEAR CELEBRATION IS DO-IT-YOURSELF FEAST

I wonder if any nationality can compete with the Chinese on the art of eating well. The last Empress of China, for instance, was known to order 200 dishes prepared daily. From these, she chose two for dinner.

Even average Chinese families, when they can afford it, serve an array of dishes at meal time. I remember during one Chinese cooking course that I took, the teacher explained the philosophy behind having several$or even many$dishes at each meal. The idea is that the taste buds quickly tire of one taste-sensation and therefore, the meal is more enjoyable if you have many flavors and textures.

At celebrations such as those that welcome the lunar New Year, chicken plays an important role. Chicken represents renewal and rebirth, so it often appears in several different dishes. In China, the Oven Stuffer Roaster included here would be served complete with head and feet to symbolize completeness -- but my husband isn"t selling them that way right now, so I"m not going to be completely authentic! Other symbolic foods include oysters to represent good fortune, fish to symbolize plenty, and mein (noodles) to represent long life.

I don"t really expect you to make all these dishes from scratch, so how about getting some of them canned or frozen from your supermarket?

CHINESE NEW YEAR FEAST Cold Platter of Prepared Meat and Fish (Abalone, Smoked Fish, Smoked Ham) Boiled Rice Oysters Egg Rolls Won Ton Soup *Stir Fry in Noodle Basket *Poached Soy Roaster *New Year Low Mein *Peking Cornish Hens with Scallion Sauce *Stir-Fried Vegetables over Chow Mein Noodles *Recipe follows POACHED SOY ROASTERServes 8-10 1 whole roaster 10 cups water 3 cups dark soy sauce 1 cup dry sherry 2 tablespoons sugar 1-1/2 teaspoons five-spice powder 4 slices peeled, fresh gingerroot Shredded cabbage (optional) Carrot curls (optional) Hot pepper flowers (optional) Remove giblets; set aside. Remove and discard fat from cavity. Tie legs together and fold wings back.

In 8-quart kettle or Dutch oven, place roaster, breast-side down; add giblets and next 6 ingredients. Over high heat, bring to a boil. Reduce heat to low and cover; simmer 30 minutes. Uncover and turn roaster over gently, being careful not to tear skin. Over high heat, return to a boil; cover and simmer over low heat for another 30 minutes or until leg joint moves easily and juices run clear with no hint of pink when thigh is pierced. Remove roaster and cool slightly; cut into small pieces. Serve hot, at room temperature or chilled, arranging on a bed of cabbage and garnishing with carrot curls and hot pepper flowers. Soy sauce mixture may be boiled and then pa.s.sed as a dipping sauce.

Note: Sauce mixture can be used over and over again. Skim off fat; refrigerate up to a week or freeze several months.

Bring to a boil before reusing.

STIR-FRY IN A NOODLE BASKETServes 8-10 1 boneless roaster breast, cut into 1/2-inch cubes (about 4 cups) 6 tablespoons soy sauce, divided 2 tablespoons dry sherry 2 tablespoons cornstarch, divided 4 scallions, cut into 1/2-inch slices (3/4 cup) 2 teaspoons minced fresh gingerroot 2 cloves garlic, minced 3 tablespoons cider vinegar 2 teaspoons sugar 2 teaspoons Chinese sesame oil 1/4 teaspoon Cayenne pepper 5 tablespoons vegetable oil, divided 3 cups broccoli flowerets (1 small bunch), blanched 1 1/2 cups sliced carrots (about 3), blanched 3/4 cup sliced water chestnuts 1 can (8-ounces) straw mushrooms, drained, or 1 can (8- ounces) whole b.u.t.ton mushrooms, drained 1/2 cup dry roasted cashew nuts NOODLE BASKET (recipe follows) In large bowl, combine breast cubes, 2 tablespoons soy sauce, sherry, and 1 tablespoon cornstarch; toss until well mixed and set aside. On small plate, combine scallions, ginger and garlic; set aside. In small bowl, mix well remaining 4 tablespoons soy sauce, 1 tablespoon cornstarch, vinegar, sugar, sesame oil, and Cayenne; set aside.

In a wok or large, heavy skillet over high heat, heat 3 tablespoons oil until hot, but not smoking. Add breast cubes and cook, stirring quickly and frequently (stir-fry), 3 minutes. Remove breast cubes with slotted spoon. Add remaining 2 tablespoons oil to skillet and heat. Add onions, ginger and garlic; stir-fry about 30 seconds. Add broccoli, carrots, water chestnuts, mushrooms, and cooked breast cubes; stir-fry 2 minutes longer. Pour soy sauce mixture into skillet and cook 1 minute longer or until slightly thickened. Stir in cashews. Serve hot in noodle basket.

Note: Dish may be made up to 1-1/2 hours ahead, but do not add cashews; add just before serving. Place mixture in oven-to-table serving dish; partially cover and reheat in preheated 3250F oven for 20 minutes. Or reheat in top of double boiler over hot water for 15 minutes, stirring occasionally.

PHOTO: Unusual presentation of chineese food in noodle basket NOODLE BASKET 1 package (8-ounces) spaghetti Oil for deep frying Cook spaghetti as package directs. Run cooked spaghetti under cold water; drain. Gently toss spaghetti with a little oil. Over index fingers, fold five or six spaghetti strands in half. Drape folded spaghetti over edge of 7- x 3-1/2-inch sieve, so that loops fall to outside of sieve and ends into center. Continue to place folded spaghetti (5 to 6 strands at a time) around edge of sieve.

Intertwine ends of spaghetti in center to form a woven pattern that will make the noodle basket stronger and prevent spaghetti from separating during frying. Extra spaghetti can be added in center of sieve to reinforce pattern. When basket is complete, place another sieve on top to hold in place.

In large saucepan, pour enough oil to cover sieve; over medium-high heat, heat to 375oF or until a small piece of spaghetti sizzles and turns golden when placed in oil.

Submerge sieves, with spaghetti between, and deep-fry until noodle basket is lightly browned; remove and drain on paper towels.

Makes 1 large basket or 3 small baskets (4 x 2-1/4) Note: To make smaller baskets, drape spaghetti over a sieve measuring 4 x 2-1/4-inches; repeat for 3 baskets.

NEW YEAR LO MEINServes 8-10 water 5 tablespoons soy sauce, divided 3 tablespoons cornstarch, divided 4 roaster boneless thigh cutlets, cut into thin slices or strips 2 teaspoons Chinese sesame oil 1 teaspoon sugar 5 tablespoons vegetable oil, divided 1 cup chopped scallions (4-5) 2 cloves garlic, minced 3 cups sliced celery cabbage (1/4 medium head) 2 cups sliced celery (3 ribs) 2 cups carrots cut in julienne strips (3), blanched 2 cups sliced mushrooms (1/2 pound) 1 cup snow peas, trimmed, cut into 1-inch pieces 3 cups bean sprouts 3/4 cup sliced water chestnuts 3/4 cup bamboo shoots cut in julienne strips 1/2 pound fine egg noodles or thin spaghetti broken into fourths, cooked, rinsed and drained In medium-sized bowl, combine 2 tablespoons water, 2 tablespoons soy sauce and 1 tablespoon cornstarch. Add thigh pieces and toss until well coated; set aside. In small bowl, mix well 2/3 cup water, remaining 3 tablespoons soy sauce, remaining 2 tablespoons cornstarch, sesame oil, and sugar; set aside.

In large skillet or wok over medium-high heat, heat 2 tablespoons oil until hot but not smoking. Add thigh mixture; stir-fry over high heat 3 minutes. Remove thigh meat with slotted spoon; set aside. Heat remaining 3 tablespoons oil in skillet. Add scallions and garlic; stir-fry about 30 seconds. Add celery cabbage, celery, carrots, mushrooms, and snow peas; stir-fry over medium heat 5 minutes or until vegetables are tender-crisp. (Add 1-2 tablespoons water, if needed). Add bean sprouts, water chestnuts and bamboo shoots; stir-fry 2 minutes. Stir in thigh meat and spaghetti. Add cornstarch mixture and cook until sauce has thickened. Serve immediately.

PHOTO: Create a meal in the Chinese tradition with fresh Cornish hens Peking-style, served with stir-fried vegetables PEKING CORNISH HENS WITH SCALLION SAUCEServes 4 4 fresh Cornish game hens 6 cups water 1/4 cup honey 4-1/4-inch-thick slices fresh ginger 4 skewers (approximately 8-inches long) Remove giblets. Pat hens dry. Bring water to a boil in large saucepan. When boiling, add honey and stir. One at a time, lower each bird into honey bath, quickly turning it completely over to evenly coat with liquid. Immediately remove and place a slice of ginger in each bird. Let hens dry on metal rack for 10 minutes. Place in roasting pan with wings folded back. Push tail into body cavity, then run skewer through meaty part of drumsticks underneath bone, skewering the tail. (If wood skewers are used, cover ends with foil to prevent burning.) Cook in preheated 350F oven for 1 hour until tender. Combine sauce ingredients and serve with hens.

SCALLION SAUCE 1/2 cup soy sauce 2 tablespoons dry sherry 2 tablespoons fresh orange juice 1 teaspoon grated orange rind 1 teaspoon sugar 2 scallions thinly sliced Stir-frying is a cla.s.sic Chinese cooking technique in which food is quickly cooked over high heat to retain flavor and crispness. In a wok or skillet, saute chopped broccoli, green beans, celery and bean sprouts in a small amount of peanut oil for about 5 minutes, stirring frequently.

Flavor with soy sauce and serve.

STIR-FRIED VEGETABLESServes 4 1/2 cup bias-cut bite-size carrot pieces 1/2 cup broccoli flowerets 1/2 cup bias-cut green beans 1/2 cup celery thinly sliced at an angle 1/2 cup snow peas 2-3 tablespoons peanut oil 1 clove garlic peeled and lightly crushed (optional) 1-1/4-inch thick slice fresh ginger (optional) Soy sauce to taste In a saucepan bring 1 quart of water to a boil, add carrots, and cook for 2 minutes. Drain and rinse under cold running water, then pat dry with paper towels.

To a heated wok or iron skillet add 2 tablespoons peanut oil and optional garlic and ginger. When oil is hot, add well dried carrots and saute for 2 minutes. Quickly remove carrots with a slotted spoon and arrange on a serving platter, then continue in the same manner cooking the broccoli and green beans, each for 2 minutes and the celery and snowpeas each for 1 minute. Add more oil as necessary and remove garlic and ginger if they start to burn. When all of the vegetables have been arranged, sprinkle lightly with soy sauce and serve immediately.

ELEGANT DINNER FOR TWO PHOTO CAPTION: On Valentine"s Day, show your loved one you care by serving Cornish Hens Sheherezade and Tender-Hearts Salad.

There"s a hearts and Valentines connection today that Great Grandmother never considered. Given what we now know about diet and heart disease, it"s more true than ever that the way to a man"s heart really is through his stomach.

In the case of my husband, I think it"s certainly true. To be honest, Frank is not what you"d call a heavy duty romantic. On Valentines Day he does give me roses, but I"ve wondered if the flowers appear because his secretary, Elaine Barnes, puts him up to it. I also get a wonderfully romantic Valentine"s card, but for all I know Elaine may choose it for him. In my heart of hearts, I think he enjoys Valentine"s Day, but is more turned on by the health aspect of the menu that follows than with any flowers or valentines.

February has been celebrated as National Heart Month since 1962. What better time than February to pamper a loved one"s heart -- or your own -- than the season for lovers? Here"s a special February 14 dinner for your Valentine, one with an elegant menu for two that encourages love, devotion and good health.

To star at the meal, serve Cornish Hens Sheherazade, a romantic choice because fresh hens, like love birds, come in pairs. They also are low in calories, fat, cholesterol, and sodium. To surround the birds with beauty and good nutrition, you could make a brown-rice pilaf, sweet- flavored miniature vegetables, and a salad studded with deep-red beets cut in tiny hearts. For dessert? Try Forbidden Fruit Souffle.

MENU *Cornish Hens Sheherazade *Curried Brown Rice Pilaf Miniature Vegetables *Tender Hearts Salad *Forbidden Fruit Souffle *Recipe follows CORNISH HENS SHEHERAZADEServes 2-4 2 fresh Cornish game hens 4 tablespoons fresh lemon juice (reserve sh.e.l.l) 2 teaspoons soybean oil 1/2 teaspoon ground ginger 1/2 teaspoon ground c.u.min Ground pepper to taste, and salt, if you must Paprika to taste 2 small onions, halved 4 whole cloves 6 fresh or frozen baby carrots, lightly steamed 1/2 cup combined fresh or frozen baby peas and pearl onions, lightly steamed Curried Brown Rice Pilaf (recipe follows) Place hens in large shallow bowl. In small bowl, combine lemon juice, oil, ginger, c.u.min, pepper, salt and paprika.

Pour into and over Cornish hens. Cover and marinate in refrigerator 30 minutes or longer.

Preheat oven to 350F. Stick cloves into onion halves.

Place 2 onion halves and 1/4 squeezed lemon juice inside each hen. Tie legs together and fold back wings. Sprinkle with pepper and paprika. Roast about 60 minutes or until juices run clear with no trace of pink when thigh is pierced. Serve hens with vegetables and Curried Brown Rice Pilaf.

CURRIED BROWN RICE PILAFServes 2 1 teaspoon soybean oil 1/3 cup chopped onion 1 teaspoon curry powder 1/4 teaspoon ground ginger 1/8 teaspoon ground c.u.min 1/8 teaspoon ground turmeric Ground pepper to taste, and salt, if you can"t do without it Dash Cayenne 1/2 cup uncooked brown rice 1 tablespoon raisins (optional) 1 can (10-ounces) low-sodium chicken broth 1/2 cup water 1 tablespoon snipped fresh or frozen chives Preheat oven to 350F. In small, non-stick skillet over medium-low heat, heat oil. Saute onion and spices and salt, if you"re using it, in hot oil for 2 to 3 minutes until tender but not browned. Stir in rice and raisins; remove from heat and set aside.

In an ovenproof saucepan, over high heat, bring chicken broth and water to a boil. Stir in rice mixture; cover and boil 5 minutes. Place covered saucepan in oven and continue to cook 45 to 50 minutes until rice is tender and liquid has been absorbed. To serve, toss pilaf with chives.

TENDER HEARTS SALADServes 2 1 can (8-ounces) low-sodium fancy sliced beets 2 teaspoons cider vinegar 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard 1 tablespoon soybean oil Ground pepper to taste Pinch ground cinnamon to taste 2 small heads Bibb or Boston lettuce with outside leaves removed 2 teaspoons snipped fresh or frozen chives Drain beets, reserving 2 tablespoons liquid. Using small heart-shaped cookie cutter or cardboard pattern, cut hearts out of beet slices. Prepare dressing: in small bowl, combine reserved beet liquid, vinegar, and mustard. Whisk in oil in a slow stream; season with pepper and cinnamon.

Toss beets with dressing and set aside.

Trim base of lettuce heads, if necessary, so they sit flat; gently spread leaves open like a flower. Carefully wash lettuce in cold water; pat dry with paper towels. On each of the two salad plates, place one lettuce head; arrange beet hearts decoratively among leaves. To serve, drizzle with dressing and sprinkle with chives.

FORBIDDEN FRUIT SOUFFLEServes 2 2 large unblemished cooking/eating apples 1/2 lemon 1 cup unsweetened applesauce 2 teaspoons honey Ground cinnamon to taste Ground nutmeg to taste 2 tablespoons applejack or Calvados, divided (optional) 1 large egg white Confectioners" sugar Preheat oven to 375F. Lightly grease baking dish. Wash apples and, if necessary, cut a thin slice off bottom of each apple to make it stand upright. Cut a 1/2-inch slice off tops of apples. Using a small, sharp knife and a grapefruit spoon, hollow out apples, leaving a sh.e.l.l 1/4- inch thick. Rub inside and top edges of apple sh.e.l.ls with lemon to keep them from discoloring.

In small, heavy-bottomed saucepan over low heat, combine applesauce, honey, cinnamon, nutmeg and 1 to 2 teaspoons applejack. Cook, stirring often, until heated through but not boiling. In small bow, with mixer at high speed, beat egg white until stiff but not dry. Into medium-sized mixing bowl, pour hot applesauce. Add half the egg white; fold in with a rubber or wooden spatula. Add remaining egg white and fold in gently.

Sprinkle inside of apple sh.e.l.ls lightly with additional cinnamon and nutmeg. Place apple sh.e.l.ls in prepared baking dish; carefully fill with applesauce mixture, doming the top. Bake in center of oven for 15 to 17 minutes or until souffles have risen and are very lightly browned on top.

Remove souffles from oven and sprinkle lightly with confectioner"s sugar. To flame souffles, in small saucepan, heat remaining applejack until barely warm.

Using a long match, light applejack and pour over souffles.

Serve at once.

PHOTO - DRUMSTICK CROWN ROAST - SPRING DRUMSTICK CROWN ROAST ADDS WHIMSY TO EASTER FEAST The symbols of Easter are happy ones, full of the joy of the day$spring flowers and spring greens, new clothes, cuddly animals and their chocolate look-alikes, jelly beans, fancy breads and cakes, colored eggs and Easter egg hunts. Catching the spirit of the day, Perdue Farms" home economists developed a playful main course to "crown" the Easter meal. It is a roast of drumsticks fashioned into an edible crown by baking them upright around a coffee can.

When baking is complete, a corn bread stuffing that you make replaces the can. The technique is not difficult and the can actually helps brown the outside of the chicken.

Pilaf-Stuffed Crown Roast With Herb Gravy could be the centerpiece to a Greek feast, including a cla.s.sic Greek soup, artichoke ca.s.serole, and salad with feta cheese.

Traditional touches such as a garnish of red-dyed hard- cooked eggs and luscious rich baklava from the bakery will add authenticity to the celebration. For an American-style meal, serve Cornbread-Stuffed Crown Roast of Drumsticks with Madeira Sauce. Either way, Happy Easter!

MENU Hot Sherried Consomme *Pilaf-Stuffed Crown Roast of Drumsticks with Herb Gravy or *Cornbread-Stuffed Crown Roast of Drumsticks with Madeira Sauce Creamy Cole Slaw Maple Candied Sweet Potatoes Wilted Lettuce Salad Golden Chiffon Cake *Recipe follows PILAF-STUFFED CROWN ROAST OFServes 4-6 DRUMSTICKS WITH HERB GRAVY 10 roaster drumsticks 1 empty coffee can (12-16-ounces) with ends removed and outside greased Kitchen twine 1/3 cup olive oil Salt and ground pepper to taste 1 1/2 teaspoons minced, fresh oregano or 3/4 teaspoon dried, divided 1 1/2 teaspoons minced, fresh thyme, or 3/4 teaspoon dried 1/4 cup flour 1 clove garlic, minced 2 cups chicken broth or water 4 hard-cooked eggs, dyed red, optional garnish Fresh bay leaves, thyme, oregano and marjoram, optional garnish GREEK EASTER PILAF (recipe follows) Preheat oven to 375F. Place coffee can in center of a round 9- or 10-inch cake pan. Arrange drumsticks around can, narrow end up. With twine, tie drumsticks securely around the can in 3 places, starting at the middle, then bottom, then top. In a small bowl, combine oil with salt, pepper, one half of oregano, and 1/2 of thyme; brush onto drumsticks. Roast drumsticks for 1 hour, 10 minutes, basting halfway through cooking time with any remaining oil. Meanwhile, prepare Greek Easter Pilaf; keep warm.

Using two spatulas, remove roast with can to a warm 12-inch platter or chop plate. Pour 1/4 cup pan juices into a small saucepan. Whisk in flour and cook over medium heat for 10 minutes, stirring constantly. Add garlic, broth, and remaining oregano and thyme; bring to a boil, whisking constantly. Season to taste with salt and pepper; strain gravy into a warm sauceboat.

To serve roast, spoon stuffing into coffee can. Carefully lift off can and gently press drumsticks against stuffing.

Garnish, if desired, with dyed eggs and fresh herbs.

GREEK EASTER PILAF 1/4 cup (1/2 stick) b.u.t.ter or margarine 1/2 cup chopped onion 1/4 cup pine nuts (pignoli) 1-1/2 cups converted rice 2-1/4 cups chicken broth or water 1/2 teaspoon salt or to taste 1/4 teaspoon ground pepper 1/2 cup currants or raisins 1/4 cup minced, fresh parsley In a saucepan over medium heat, melt b.u.t.ter. Saute onion, pine nuts, and rice in hot b.u.t.ter for 10 minutes, stirring constantly. Stir in broth, salt, pepper, and currants and bring to boil. Cover pot with tightly-fitting lid; reduce heat to low. Cook rice 20 minutes or until tender. Fluff with a fork and toss with parsley.

CORNBREAD-STUFFED CROWN ROAST OF DRUMSTICKS Serves 6 WITH MADEIRA SAUCE 10 roaster drumsticks 1 empty coffee can (12-16-ounces) with both ends removed and outside greased Kitchen twine 1/2 cup (1 stick) b.u.t.ter or margarine melted Salt and ground pepper to taste 1 teaspoon ground sage Dixie Cornbread Stuffing (recipe follows) 1/4 cup flour 2 tablespoons Madeira wine 2 cup chicken broth or water Preheat oven to 375F. Place coffee can in center of a round 9- or 10-inch cake pan. Arrange drumsticks around can, narrow end up. With twine, tie drumsticks securely around the can in 3 places, starting at the middle, then bottom, then top. In a small bowl, combine b.u.t.ter with salt, pepper, and sage; brush onto drumsticks. Roast for 1 hour, 10 minutes, basting halfway through cooking time with remaining any b.u.t.ter. Meanwhile, prepare Dixie Cornbread Stuffing, cover and bake in oven with roast during last 20 minutes of cooking time.

Using two spatulas, remove roast with can to a warm 12-inch platter or chop plate. Pour 1/4 cup pan juices into a small saucepan. Whisk in flour and cook over medium heat 10 minutes, stirring constantly. Add Madeira and broth; bring to a boil, whisking frequently. Season to taste with salt and pepper; strain gravy into a warm sauceboat.

To serve roast, spoon stuffing into coffee can. Carefully lift off can and gently press drumsticks against stuffing.

DIXIE CORNBREAD STUFFING 1/4 pound lean bacon, diced 1/2 cup chopped onion 1/2 cup chopped celery 1/4 cup (1/2 stick) b.u.t.ter or margarine 1/2 pound fresh spinach, kale, or collard greens, cooked, well drained and chopped*

1 package (8-ounces) cornbread stuffing mix 1 cup chicken broth or water Salt and ground pepper to taste In a medium-sized ovenproof skillet, over medium heat, saute bacon, onion, and celery for 5 to 10 minutes or until bacon is cooked. Add b.u.t.ter and heat until melted. Stir in greens, stuffing mix, and broth; toss well. Season with salt and pepper.

*Note: Or subst.i.tute 1/2 package (10-ounces) frozen chopped spinach, kale, or collard greens, thawed and drained.

MOTHER"S DAY DINNER -- WITH LOVE FROM THE KIDS Photo: Chicken Bouquet is a centerpiece for Mother"s Day.

Mother"s Day became a national holiday in 1914. Since then, it"s a day of love and memories, with no gifts more appreciated than the "I made it myself" or "I cooked it myself" variety.

I remember so well the fledgling attempts by my oldest child to cook for Mother"s Day. Jose wasn"t much more than a toddler when he got the idea on his own to make hot cocoa for a Mother"s Day treat. While I was still in bed, he went into the kitchen, turned on the electric stove, and started to make the cocoa by setting a china cup full of water directly on the hot burner. I came into the kitchen just in time to prevent a disaster. As you can imagine, a quick lesson on kitchen safety followed.

The Perdue Farms home economists want to be sure your kids don"t have a similar close call and recommend that all kids be warned to stay away from the stove unless there"s adult supervision. But a.s.suming that there"s an adult around to help, children can partic.i.p.ate in making a wonderful treat for their mother.

The recipe that follows is "a dinner bouquet for Mom."

Grade school children and older can create a bouquet of chicken kebobs, helping to thread fruit and fresh boneless thigh meat on skewers and to "plant" them in rice. For younger children, even toddlers, Drumstick Blossoms are an easy alternate recipe in which drumsticks are rolled in Parmesan-flavored crumbs. Any age child can help scrub vegetables and spoon sherbet into orange cups. Teenagers can enjoy creating radish roses, making stir-fry rice, and scalloping orange baskets to hold sherbet.

Editor"s Note: Please see accompanying recipes and photograph.

Menu *Citrus Chicken Bouquet or *Drumstick Blossoms Stewed Tomatoes Idaho Baked Potatoes with Sour Cream Succotash Dinner Rolls Berries and Cream

*Recipe follows CITRUS CHICKEN BOUQUET Serves 4 4 roaster boneless thigh cutlets 1/4 cup fresh orange juice 2 tablespoons vegetable oil 2 tablespoons soy sauce 2 tablespoons honey 1 tablespoon grated orange peel 2 cloves garlic, minced 1-1/2 teaspoon minced, fresh ginger or 1/2 teaspoon ground 2 medium-sized green peppers, cut into 1-inch squares 2 tangerines, peeled and pulled into sections 1 medium-sized clean, glazed ceramic flowerpot Garden Fried Rice (see recipe) or 5 - 6 cups cooked rice Cut chicken thighs into 1-inch chunks. In shallow bowl or non-metal container, combine orange juice, oil, soy sauce, honey, orange peel, garlic, and ginger; mix well. Cover and marinate chicken for 1 hour or longer, refrigerated.

Drain chicken; reserve marinade. Preheat broiler. On each of four to six 12-inch skewers, alternately thread chicken, green pepper, and orange sections. Broil kebabs, about 5 inches from heat, for 10 to 15 minutes or until chicken is cooked through, turning occasionally and basting with marinade.

To serve, spoon rice into flowerpot. Stand skewers in rice.

Makes about 4 servings NOTE: Kebabs can also be barbecued on an outdoor grill.

Cook over medium-hot coals for 10 to 15 minutes or until cooked through, turning occasionally and basting with marinade.

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