DRUMSTICK BLOSSOMSServes 4-6 Children can make this Mother"s Day "bouquet" of drumsticks. Served in a flowerpot it"s whimsical and fun.

6 tablespoons b.u.t.ter or margarine, melted 1/3 cup grated Parmesan cheese 1/3 cup seasoned bread crumbs 1/4 cup sesame seeds 1/2 teaspoon paprika Salt and ground pepper to taste 12 drumsticks 1 medium-sized clean, glazed clay flowerpot 1 small head Boston lettuce or green leaf lettuce parsley sprigs, optional Preheat oven to 375oF. Place b.u.t.ter in a baking dish. On wax paper, combine Parmesan cheese, bread crumbs, sesame seeds, paprika, salt, and pepper. Roll each drumstick in melted b.u.t.ter, then in crumbs until well coated. Arrange drumsticks in same baking dish, alternating direction of drums to accommodate all pieces. Bake about 45 minutes or until cooked through and golden brown.

To serve, separate lettuce into leaves; wash and dry. Line bottom and sides of flowerpot with lettuce, allowing leafy edges to extend above rim of flowerpot. Place drumsticks, bone side down, on lettuce in flowerpot to resemble flowers. Garnish with parsley sprigs, if desired.

FRANK PERDUE"S FOURTH OF JULY MENU Frank has warm memories of his childhood, growing up on his father"s poultry farm on the Eastern Sh.o.r.e of Maryland. He was part of the family business from the time he was so small "he had to hold an egg with two hands."

Like any other farm family on Maryland"s Eastern Sh.o.r.e, the Perdues did not often get to enjoy a tender young broiler; that was strictly springtime eating, when there were small birds to spare. The rest of the year, chicken dinner meant long, slow cooking of one of the venerable hens that hatched the eggs that were the family business.

"If a holiday came along," says Frank, "we could be sure my mother"s big cast iron kettle would come out and it would be time to cook up one of the older hens. That was great eating!"

Here"s the kind of Fourth of July menu that Frank grew up with. Since you probably don"t have an old stewing hen, try an Oven Stuffer Roaster for the Eastern Sh.o.r.e Chicken with Slippery Dumplings. Roasters are old enough to have a lot of flavor, but young enough not to be too tough.

If you"re unfamiliar with slippery dumplings, they are more like noodles or won ton wrappers than conventional dumplings. Sweet Potato Biscuits are a typical accompaniment, and Frank is so particular about them that the first six months of our marriage, I probably tried ten different recipes before hitting on the one that accompanies the Eastern Sh.o.r.e Chicken recipe. Sweet Potato Biscuits are sweeter and chewier than the baking powder variety eaten elsewhere.

Enjoy this Eastern Fourth of July feast.

Menu *Eastern Sh.o.r.e Chicken with Slippery Dumplings Turnip Greens Corn on the Cob Zucchini Parmesan *Sweet Potato Biscuits Iced Tea Peach Cobbler *Recipe follows EASTERN Sh.o.r.e CHICKEN WITH SLIPPERY DUMPLINGS Serves 6-8 Poached Roaster 1 whole roaster or 1 soup and stew hen 1/2 lemon 1 medium-sized yellow onion 2 whole cloves Salt and ground pepper to taste 6 cups chicken broth or more if desired Water 1 bay leaf 1 pound small white onions, peeled 1 pound carrots (about 6), peeled and cut into 1-1/2-inch lengths

Rub roaster inside and out with lemon. Cut onion in half and stick with cloves; place in cavity of roaster. Truss bird by lacing up cavity and tying legs together. Season with salt and pepper, and place in an eight-quart Dutch oven. Pour in chicken broth and enough water to reach halfway up sides of roaster; add bay leaf. Place over medium heat; bring liquid to a simmer. Reduce heat to medium-low. Cover and simmer, allowing 20 minutes per pound for a roaster and 40 minutes per pound for a hen.

(To keep meat tender, do not allow to boil.) During last 45 minutes of cooking time, add onions and carrots.

Roaster is done if juices run clear with no hint of pink when thickest part of thigh is pierced. (Hen should be cooked beyond this time to tenderize.) Remove bird and vegetables to serving platter and keep warm.

Add more broth or water to poaching liquid, if necessary, to bring it halfway up sides of Dutch oven; bring to a boil. Meanwhile prepare dumplings.

Slippery Dumplings 2 cups flour 1 cup warm water 1 teaspoon salt or to taste In mixing bowl, combine flour, warm water and salt. Turn onto a well-floured surface and knead dough 4 to 5 minutes until it becomes elastic; reflour board as necessary. Roll out kneaded dough as thinly as possible. With sharp knife, cut into 1-1/2 to 2-inch squares. Add to boiling poaching liquid and cook 5 to 7 minutes until "al dente." Remove dumplings to a serving bowl.

Over high heat, cook poaching liquid until reduced and slightly thickened. For a thicker gravy, add a small amount of flour blended with cold water to poaching liquid.

To serve, pour some gravy over dumplings; pa.s.s the rest separately. Carve roaster and serve with vegetables, dumplings and gravy.

Note: You can subst.i.tute won ton skins for dumpling dough.

A typical side dishes for this dinner would be greens sauteed with onion and a little salt pork.

SWEET POTATO BISCUITS Makes 12 to 15 This is how I cook sweet potato biscuits for Frank, with a minimum of salt. You may prefer the biscuits with a little more salt.

1 cup drained, canned sweet potatoes 1/4 cup syrup from canned sweet potatoes 2 tablespoons vegetable shortening 1 tablespoon sugar 1 cup flour 2 teaspoons baking powder 1/2 teaspoon salt, or to taste Preheat oven to 425F. Grease a baking sheet. Rice or mash potatoes until smooth; place in small saucepan and stir in syrup. Cook over medium heat, stirring constantly, until just warm. Stir in shortening and sugar; mix well.

In a mixing bowl, sift together flour, baking powder and salt. Stir in sweet potato mixture; mix well with wooden spoon or knead with hands for 1 minute. On floured surface, roll or pat out dough to 3/4-inch thickness. With 1-1/2 to 2-inch round biscuit cutter, cut out dough. Bake 12 to 15 minutes until golden on top and cooked through.

Serve warm.

SAY "BRAVO, CRISTOFORO COLOMBO" AND CELEBRATE ITALIAN STYLE

Columbus Day has been a national holiday in this country since 1971. Its first official celebration, however, dates to 1792, the three hundredth anniversary of the exploration that brought Columbus and a crew of 120 sailors to the New World. The 1792 celebration took place in New York City, where today"s Italian-American population equals the population of Genoa.

The first Columbus Day celebration included a gala banquet$a thoroughly appropriate way to mark the event that changed the eating habits of the Old World forever. The enriching exchange of foods between the Old and New World affected all the cuisines of Europe, but none more than that of Italy. Imagine Italian cuisine without tomatoes or peppers or corn.

To many of us "eating Italian" is a favorite experience, and what could be a better excuse for a "festa Italiana" than "Cristoforo Colombo Day". Here"s a complete menu for just such a holiday dinner. In fact, it could be two dinners, because there"s a choice of main courses one with the color, spice and flare of southern Italy, the other with the rich creaminess of the North.

Because large numbers of immigrants came from southern Italy, especially from Naples and Sicily, lively southern Italian dishes are most familiar to Americans. These typically include tomatoes, olive oil, garlic, spices such as cinnamon, raisins, and olives. Layered pastas and pizza come from the South.

In the North, foods are lighter, more varied, and are frequently delicate in flavor. Many dishes call for b.u.t.ter, cream or cheese, and filled pasta and rice are also served. Chicken is suited to either style of cooking, and boneless Oven Stuffer Roaster thigh meat is as delicious with a spicy tomato sauce as with wine and cream. In all parts of Italy, fresh vegetables, fruit, and herbs are important. Columbus" own city of Genoa is most closely a.s.sociated with the use of fresh basil.

Whether inspired by the North or the South, Columbus Day is a time to wave the flags, both our red, white and blue and the Italian red, white and green, and to salute Christopher Columbus with a meal to remember.

REGIONAL ITALIAN COLUMBUS DAY MENU Antipasto *Brodo Genovese *Chicken and Eggplant Agrodolce Siciliana *"Rice Birds" Piedmontese in Wine and Cream Sauce Broccoli Florets Parmigiano Crusty Italian Bread *Coppa Cristoforo Colombo Cafe Espresso *Recipe follows BRODO GENOVESE: CHICKEN BROTH WITH PASTA, CHEESE AND BASILServes 6-8 7 cups homemade chicken stock or 4 cans (13-3/4-ounces each) chicken broth 1 cup small pasta such as tubetti (tiny tubes), farfalle (bow ties) or conchiglie (sh.e.l.ls) 1/4 cup minced fresh basil or Italian parsley 1 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese

In large saucepan or Dutch oven over high heat, bring chicken stock to a boil. Add pasta and cook until tender, stirring occasionally, about 8 to 10 minutes. To serve, ladle hot soup into bowls; sprinkle with basil and pa.s.s grated cheese.

CHICKEN AND EGGPLANT AGRODOLCE SCICILIANAServes 6-8 1 large eggplant (about 1-1/2 pounds), cut into 1-1/2 inch cubes 8 roaster boneless thigh cutlets Salt and ground pepper to taste 1/2 - 3/4 cup olive oil, divided 2 cups sliced red onions 1/4 cup balsamic vinegar or red wine vinegar 4 cloves garlic, minced 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon 2 tablespoons honey Grated rind of 2 oranges 1 can (16-ounces) whole plum tomatoes, drained and cut into thin strips Minced, fresh parsley and basil (optional)

Sprinkle eggplant with salt; let stand 30 minutes to extract liquid; rinse and pat dry. Trim off any fat from thighs and cut into 2-inch pieces.

Preheat oven to 350oF. In large heavy skillet over medium heat, heat 2 tablespoons oil. Add chicken, half at a time; saute 2 to 3 minutes until lightly browned, adding more oil if necessary. Remove pieces with slotted spoon to large, covered ca.s.serole or baking dish. Add 2 to 4 tablespoons oil to skillet; stir in eggplant and cook 5 minutes until golden, adding more oil if necessary. Add to ca.s.serole.

Pour vinegar into skillet, sc.r.a.ping and stirring to remove pan glaze; add garlic, cinnamon, honey orange rind, and salt and pepper to taste. Pour vinegar mixture into ca.s.serole. Cover and bake 15 minutes. Stir in tomato strips, re-cover and bake 15 minutes longer. Garnish with minced parsley and basil, if desired. Serve with hot crusty Italian bread.

PHOTO: Roaster Thigh "Rice Birds"

"RICE BIRDS" PIEDMONTESE IN WINE AND CREAM SAUCEServes 6-8 8 roaster boneless thigh cutlets Salt and ground pepper to taste 4 tablespoons b.u.t.ter or margarine, divided 2 tablespoons chopped onion 3/4 teaspoon minced, fresh rosemary or sage, or 1/4 teaspoon dried 2 ounces chopped prosciutto or ham 1 cup cooked rice 4 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese 1/2 cup (2-ounces) grated or diced Italian fontina or mozzarella cheese 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 cup chicken or beef broth 1/2 cup dry white wine 1/2 cup heavy cream 1 tablespoon minced, fresh parsley Trim off and discard any fat and sprinkle chicken with salt and pepper. Place between 2 moistened pieces of plastic wrap; pound until about 1/4 inch thick.

In large heavy, oven-proof skillet over medium heat, melt 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter. Add onion and 1/8 teaspoon rosemary; cook, stirring occasionally, 2 to 3 minutes, until tender but not brown. Stir in prosciutto; cook 1 minute longer.

In small bowl, combine onion mixture, rice, and cheeses; season with salt and pepper to taste. Place 1 heaping tablespoon rice stuffing 1 inch from end of each pounded thigh. Roll up thighs into neat "packages", folding edges in over stuffing; tie packages with kitchen string.

In same skillet over medium heat, melt remaining b.u.t.ter with oil. Cook Rice Birds in b.u.t.ter-oil on all sides until lightly browned, about 8 to 10 minutes. Cover skillet and simmer 35 minutes. Transfer "birds" to serving platter; cut strings and keep warm.

Add broth, wine, and remaining rosemary to skillet, sc.r.a.ping bottom to incorporate any browned bits. Stir in cream; cook over medium-high heat until sauce is thick enough to lightly coat the back of a spoon. Return birds and any juices to skillet; cover with sauce and cook briefly just until heated through.

Arrange Rice Birds and sauce on serving platter and sprinkle with parsley.

COPPA DA FESTA CRISTOFORO COLOMBOServes 8 Amarettini (small almond-flavored biscuits) or large Amaretti, crushed 1 pint each strawberry, vanilla and pistachio ice cream Amaretto liqueur (optional) Colored candy sprinkles or nonpareils 16 c.o.c.ktail toothpick flags of Italy and USA (8 each)

For each serving: In bottom of large, stemmed gla.s.s, place 1 teaspoon Amarettini biscuit. Alternately scoop strawberry, vanilla and pistachio ice cream on top, sprinkling about 1 teaspoon Amarettini between each scoop.

Pour a little Amaretto or other liqueur on ice cream, if desired. Top with sprinkles and insert a flag of Italy and USA. Repeat with remaining ingredients. Serve immediately or place coppas in freezer until ready to serve.

PHOTO: Chicken Kebabs are tailgate party heroes PHOTO: Thanksgiving Roaster Nested in Sage Dressing takes an...

RECIPES OF OLD SOUTH ARE TODAY"S THANKSGIVING TREASURES Even before George Washington declared Thanksgiving a national holiday, its celebration had spread from Ma.s.sachusetts Colony to all America. In the Old South, Thanksgiving could mean weeks of preparation, days of celebrating and a house that overflowed with guests.

Modern times have inevitably relaxed some standards of southern hospitality, but not necessarily when it comes to setting a sumptuous table.

Here"s a Carolina version of a Thanksgiving bird. It"s an Oven Stuffer Roaster complete with a nest of stuffing. The stuffing is cooked outside instead of inside, so it soaks up the pan juices and develops a lightly crusted surface.

Several of Perdue Farms" home recipe testers tried the stuffing-nest method and found it not only wonderful eating, but an appealing presentation as well.

THANKSGIVING DAY DINNER DELIGHT *Roaster Nested in Sage Dressing with Sweet Potato Puff *Creamed Giblet Gravy String Beans Almondine Creamy Cole Slaw Cranberry Salad Sour Dough Dinner Rolls Southern Pecan Pie *Recipe follows ROASTER NESTED IN SAGE DRESSING WITH SWEET POTATO PUFF AND CREAMED GIBLET GRAVY Serves 6-8 1 whole roaster Salt and ground pepper to taste 3 cups hot water 1 loaf (1-1/4 to 1/1-2 pounds) day-old white bread 1 cup chopped onion 1-1/2 cups chopped celery 1/4 cup minced, fresh parsley 1-1/2 tablespoons minced fresh sage or 1-1/4 teaspoons dried sage 1/4 teaspoon dried thyme 2 eggs 1 tablespoon b.u.t.ter or margarine Creamed Giblet Gravy (recipe follows) Preheat oven to 350F. Remove giblets and sprinkle inside of bird with salt and pepper. Tie legs together and fold wings back. Place roaster in roasting pan or baking dish along with giblets. Pour in 2 cups hot water. Roast 1-1/4 hours, basting occasionally with pan liquids.

Meanwhile, prepare dressing: tear bread into 1/2-inch pieces; place in large bowl with onion, celery, parsley, 3/4 teaspoon salt, 1/2 teaspoon pepper, sage, and thyme.

Mix well and set aside. After 1-1/4 hours, remove roaster from oven.

Reserve giblets and pour 2 cups of pan juices through strainer into a medium-sized saucepan; reserve for gravy.

Add water to remaining pan juices, if necessary, to bring liquid to 1-1/2 cups. Ladle into bowl with dressing mixture; add eggs and mix until thoroughly moistened.

With hands, mold stuffing around outside of roaster to form a "nest." Brush b.u.t.ter over breast. Return roaster to oven; continue cooking 45 minutes to 1 hour longer or until dressing is cooked and lightly browned and juices run clear with no hint of pink when roaster thigh is pierced.

If desired, serve nested roaster from roasting pan. Or run spatula under bird to loosen it and carefully transfer to heated platter, keeping dressing intact. Serve with Creamed Giblet Gravy.

Creamed Giblet Gravy 2 cups reserved pan juices Reserved roaster giblets, chopped 3/4 cup milk 1/4 cup flour Salt and ground pepper to taste Chop giblets and add to pan juices; over medium heat, bring to a simmer. In small bowl, make a smooth paste of milk and flour. Whisk flour mixture into pan juices and continue whisking until gravy is thickened. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

BOURBON SWEET POTATO PUFFServes 6 If you have a sweet tooth, you"ll love this recipe. Frank does.

6 medium-sized cooked sweet potatoes or 1 can (40-ounces) sweet potatoes, drained 1/4 cup (1/2 stick) unsalted b.u.t.ter or margarine, melted 3 eggs 1/2 cup firmly packed brown sugar 3/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon 1/4 teaspoon ground cloves 1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg 1 to 2 teaspoons grated orange rind 1/4 cup bourbon 1 package (10-ounces) marshmallows Preheat oven to 350F. b.u.t.ter a 1-1/2-quart souffle dish or ca.s.serole. Peel cooked sweet potatoes. In large bowl, combine potatoes with remaining ingredients except marshmallows. With electric mixer or food processor, beat or process until fluffy. Turn mixture into prepared dish or ca.s.serole; arrange marshmallows over top. Bake 20 minutes or until marshmallows are puffed and golden.

PHOTO: Black & White - 3 Platters, 1 sm. bowl soup, 2 chopsticks CHANUKAH IS A FESTIVAL OF FUN AND FOOD Chanukah is a Jewish holiday, a day of remembrance, a festival of lights, and most of all, a family party that is celebrated during eight joyful days. Chanukah was first celebrated more than 2,100 years ago, following the defeat of the Syrian army by the Macabees. After driving the Syrians from Jerusalem, the Jewish temple was ceremonially cleansed. During the cleaning, a flask of oil belonging to the high priest was found. It contained enough oil to burn one night. Instead, it burned miraculously for eight days and eight nights. That is why a special eight-branch menorah (candlestick) is lit each Chanukah night at sundown, beginning with a single lighted candle on the first night and building to a full eight.

As with all Jewish holidays, traditional foods are part of the celebration. Fried and sauteed dishes have special Chanukah significance because of the oil used in cooking them. Holiday Chicken Saute is a favorite meal in one family in which there are two small boys who still prefer fingers to forks. Their mother, who is a food consultant, once asked Frank what he thought of such table manners.

His answer: "That"s why we sell our drumsticks with built- in handles."

With most of America"s Jewish settlers having come from Eastern Europe, holiday foods served in that part of the world are most popular here. For Chanukah, this means crisp, brown potato latkes (Yiddish for pancakes). Latkes are usually served with fresh applesauce and dairy sour cream. Before the arrival of the food processor, hand grating the potatoes was a traditional pre-dinner part of the ritual, with everyone taking turns at grating potatoes -- and sometimes knuckles.

In Israel, fried jelly doughnuts are frequently served instead of latkes, and many Sephardic Jews (from Mediterranean countries), serve fried pastries unique to each country. Among them are Moroccan fichuelas. These crisp, honey-coated pastries are great fun to twirl in hot oil and shape into pinwheels - but beware of the little fingers near hot oil.

PHOTO: Chanukah for Families FAMILY CHANUKAH SUPPER PARTY *Holiday Chicken Saute *Potato Latkes *Applesauce *Fichuelas De Chanukah *Recipe follows HOLIDAY CHICKEN SAUTEServes 4-6 6 chicken drumsticks 6 chicken thighs 2 tablespoons vegetable oil or chicken fat 3 small zucchini, cut into 1/2-inch slices 3 medium-sized carrots, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch slices 1 large onion, sliced into rings 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice 2 tablespoons honey 1 lemon, thinly sliced 1 teaspoon salt or to taste 1 teaspoon paprika 1 tablespoon cornstarch 2 tablespoons cold water In large, deep skillet or Dutch oven over medium-high heat, heat oil. Saute drumsticks and thighs in hot oil until lightly browned on all sides, about 15 minutes. Remove from skillet. To pan drippings, add zucchini, carrots, and onion; saute 3 minutes. Return chicken to skillet; Add lemon juice, honey, lemon slices, salt, and paprika.

Reduce heat to medium-low; cover and cook 20 to 25 minutes longer or until chicken and vegetables are tender.

In cup, place cornstarch; add water and blend to form a smooth paste. Stir into skillet and cook until slightly thickened. To serve, arrange chicken, lemon slices and vegetables on large platter; spoon sauce on top.

POTATO LATKES (Potato Pancakes) Serves 4-6 5 medium-sized raw potatoes 1 medium-sized onion, peeled 2 eggs 1/4 cup matzo meal or flour 1 teaspoon salt or to taste Vegetable oil for frying Wash potatoes; remove spots or blemishes with a small knife. Peel potatoes, if desired. With hand grater or food processor fitted with steel shredding blade, coa.r.s.ely grate potatoes. Transfer to large bowl; cover with cold water and let stand 10 minutes. Drain potatoes in colander, pressing out excess liquid. Using hand grater or food processor fitted with steel blade, grate or chop onion. Combine drained potatoes, onion, eggs, matzo meal or flour and salt; mix well. (As mixture stands, more liquid will acc.u.mulate. Do not pour off liquid; stir mixture frequently to blend.) In large skillet, heat 1/4-inch oil over medium heat until hot. Drop potato mixture by tablespoons into hot oil; flatten slightly with spatula. Cook pancakes, a few at a time, until golden brown on both sides, turning once and adding more oil if necessary. Drain on paper towels. Keep cooked pancakes warm in preheated 200F oven while others are cooking. Serve pancakes warm, with applesauce.

APPLESAUCEServes 4-6 Frank loves this recipe. He"s normally not fond of Granny Smith apples, but he likes them cooked, in this recipe.

5 to 6 medium-sized tart apples (about 2 pounds) 2 to 4 tablespoons water 1 to 2 tablespoons sugar, to taste (optional) 1/4 teaspoon cinnamon 1/4 teaspoon nutmeg Peel apples, if desired; remove cores and seeds. Cut apples into chunks; place in medium-sized saucepan. Add 2 tablespoons water, sugar if desired, cinnamon, and nutmeg.

Over medium heat, bring to a boil. Reduce heat to low; cover and cook 20 to 30 minutes or until apples are very tender, stirring occasionally and adding more water if necessary. Remove from heat and stir until large lumps disappear and mixture is fairly smooth. If apples are used unpeeled, strain sauce in food press or mill to remove skin. Let stand until cool; refrigerate until ready to serve.

FICHUELAS DE CHANUKAHServes 6 (Spiral-Shaped Sephardic Chanukah Pastries) 5 cups flour 1 teaspoon salt or to taste 2 eggs, slightly beaten 2-1/4 cups vegetable oil, divided 3/4 cup warm water 1-1/2 cups sugar 1/2 cup water In large bowl or container of food processor, fitted with steel blade, combine flour, salt, eggs, 1/4 cup oil, and 3/4 cup warm water. Stir or process until mixture forms a fairly stiff dough. On unfloured surface, knead dough 5 minutes until smooth and elastic. Divide dough into 4 parts; roll each into a ball and wrap in plastic wrap. Let dough stand 1 hour for easier handling.

On lightly floured surface, roll out one ball into a 9 x 18-inch rectangle. Cut dough into 6 strips, each about 1- 1/2-inches wide and 18-inches long.

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