In small saucepan over low heat, heat sugar in water until sugar is dissolved, stirring constantly; keep warm. In medium-sized saucepan over medium heat, heat 2 cups oil to 375F, or until small piece of dough sizzles when dropped in oil. With hand, gently lift one end of a dough strip; pierce the opposite end with a long-handled fork and twirl fork once to secure dough. Place dough, fork-end first; into hot oil. As dough fries, quickly and gently turn fork, rolling dough around to form a pinwheel. Fry dough until puffed and golden, about 30 to 60 seconds. (Do not brown.) Slip dough off fork; remove from oil with slotted spoon and immediately dip into warm sugar mixture to coat well. Cool completely on wire rack placed over waxed paper. Repeat with remaining dough.
Makes 24 pastries FOR THE ROMANCE OF IT, SERVE A CHRISTMAS DINNER GEORGE AND MARTHA WASHINGTON STYLE
George and Martha Washington made much of Christmas. They had been married on the twelfth night of Christmas in 1759, and from that year forward they tried to be together for the holidays. (The exceptions were such occasions as Christmas 1776, when General Washington was busy crossing the Delaware.) Two of the food specialists at Perdue are history buffs as well, an they put together for Frank a Christmas menu based on "receipts" (as recipes were once called) for dishes that might have been enjoyed at Christmas dinner, two hundred years ago.
As they pointed out, even basic food supplies were very different two centuries ago. American waters were so abundant with crabs, oysters, shrimp and clams, that inventive cooks tossed them into soups and spreads, baked them "potted," "scalloped" or in loaves, and used them lavishly in sauces and stuffings. The oyster stuffing included in this menu is based on a specialty of George Washington"s mother. She may have served it with pa.s.senger pigeon $common fare in those days. Although this wild bird is extinct today, Cornish game hens make tasty, tender, modern subst.i.tutes. And it is far easier to "bag a brace"
or two of Cornish hens at the local supermarket than to stalk dinner in the wild.
Early Americans weren"t partial to vegetables. They tended to overcook and under season them, then serve them up as a "mess of pease". But old-time cooks did make wonderful vegetable puddings and were superb at pickling and preserving their vegetables and fruits to serve all winter long.
From the beginning, American settlers distilled spirits. Even the stern Pilgrims (who considered the celebration of Christmas pagan) drank wine and cider for their health. After a festive holiday meal, most of our founding fathers probably enjoyed a few rounds of Madeira or Port. But Thomas Jefferson"s favorite holiday drink was a spicy mixture of hot ale and rum, so heat producing it was called "a yard of flannel". Frothy syllabub was thought to be suitable for everyone, even women and children, and this rich drink was a delicious accompaniment to sweetmeats, stewed fruit, cakes or pies.
Though few would wish to return to cooking at the hearth and beehive oven, if you"re smitten by the romance of the past, try serving special guests a Christmas dinner Martha Washington-style.
PHOTO: "An Early American holiday menu with Cornish hens"
An Early American Christmas Dinner for Four Potted Crab *Cornish Hens with Oyster Stuffing Mount Vernon *Sherried Pan Gravy Savory Grated-Carrot Christmas Pudding Pickled Beet Salad *"Whipt" Syllabub with Sweetmeats *Recipe follows CORNISH HENS WITH OYSTER STUFFING MOUNT VERNON AND SHERRIED PAN GRAVYServes 4 4 fresh Cornish game hens Salt and ground pepper to taste 4 tablespoons b.u.t.ter or margarine, divided 6 oysters, shucked, coa.r.s.ely chopped, and strained through a fine sieve or coffee filter (reserve oyster liquor) Pinch ground mace 3/4 teaspoon minced, fresh thyme or 1/4 teaspoon dried 1/4 cup chopped onion 2-3 slices day-old bread, cubed 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice 2 tablespoons dry sherry, divided Spiced or brandied fruit for garnish (optional)
Preheat oven to 350oF. Season hens inside and out with salt and pepper.
In medium-sized skillet over medium heat, melt 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter with 1/2 cup oyster liquor, mace and thyme. Add onion; cook 5 minutes until onion is tender and liquid is reduced to about 1/3 cup.
In medium-sized bowl, toss onion mixture with oysters, bread cubes, 1/4 teaspoon salt, 1/8 teaspoon pepper, lemon juice and 1 tablespoon sherry.
Spoon oyster stuffing loosely into hens. Tie legs together and fold back wings.
In a small saucepan, melt b.u.t.ter; combine with remaining sherry and baste hens with mixture. Roast hens, basting occasionally, about 1 hour and 15 minutes longer or until juices run clear with no hint of pink when thigh is pierced. Remove hens from roasting pan, cut strings, place on serving platter and keep warm. Pour pan juices into a heat proof measuring cup or small bowl. Skim off 2 tablespoons of clear yellow drippings that rise to the top and return to pan. Skim off any remaining yellow drippings and discard. Reserve degreased pan juices to add to gravy with broth.
If desired, serve hens garnished with spiced or brandied fruit. Serve with sherried gravy.
SHERRIED PAN GRAVY 2 tablespoons reserved pan drippings 2 tablespoons flour 2 cups chicken broth or water 4 tablespoons dry sherry Place roasting pan over medium heat; add flour to reserved clear pan drippings and cook 2 minutes, stirring and sc.r.a.ping the bottom to incorporate any browned bits. Stir in enough combined degreased pan juices, chicken broth and sherry to make 2 cups; simmer, stirring constantly, 2 minutes longer. Strain gravy into sauceboat.
"WHIPT" SYLLABUBServes 4-6 3 tablespoons dark rum or Cognac 2 tablespoons sugar Grated rind and juice of 1 lemon 1/4 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg 1 cup (1/2-pint) heavy cream Sprigs fresh rosemary (optional) Sweetmeats (see note) or stewed fruits
In large bowl, with mixer at medium speed, beat rum, sugar and lemon rind. Gradually add heavy cream, beating constantly until cream forms soft peaks. (Do not overbeat.) Cover and refrigerate until serving time.
When ready to serve, if liquids have separated, beat by hand to re-incorporate. Serve Syllabub in small cordial gla.s.ses, garnished with a rosemary sprig. Accompany with sweetmeats. (By the way, do you know what a sweetmeat is?
It"s any dainty little confection such as stuffed dates, chocolate truffles, sugared apricots and pears, or even candied watermelon rind.)
Chapter Nine CHICKEN FOR VERY SPECIAL OCCASIONS SHOW STOPPER RECIPES
With the majority of the recipes in this book, I"ve tried to keep in mind that you are busy and have plenty of other things to do with your time besides spending it in the kitchen. I"ve also tried to keep the ingredients and the processes reasonably simple and usually I"ve had an eye on the calories and the cost.
This chapter is an exception. These recipes ignore calories, and some of them require not just minutes of preparation, but days.
There are some occasions, however, that deserve showstopper recipes. Maybe your daughter is getting married? Or you"re celebrating a very special anniversary? Someone important to you just got a promotion? You"re part of a gourmet club, and you want your recipe to be at least as good as Linda"s?
This chapter is the place to look for unusual recipes, the show stoppers, the ones that will really make people feel special, and that they"ll be talking about for days to come.
Ba.s.s DRUM STICK Serves 4-6 This really does look the padded stick a drummer would use for his ba.s.s drum.
l. Remove the k.n.o.bby knuckle from the end of a drumstick by giving it a good hard whack with your heaviest knife. If you happen to have a meat cleaver the job is easier.
2. Stand the drumstick on its meaty end and push the skin down to expose the tendons. Remove the largest tendons by pulling them free with a pair of clean pliers.
3. Sc.r.a.pe the skin and meat away from the bone to form a rounder, more compact drumstick.
10 chicken drumsticks 1/3 cup flour 3/4 teaspoon salt or to taste 1/8 teaspoon ground pepper 1/4 cup b.u.t.ter or margarine 1 can (6-ounces) frozen orange juice concentrate 1 can (6-ounces) water 2 tablespoons dark brown sugar 3/4 teaspoon minced, fresh oregano or 1/4 teaspoon dried 1/2 teaspoon nutmeg In a large plastic bag combine flour, salt and pepper. Add chicken pieces and shake to coat. In a large skillet over medium heat, melt b.u.t.ter. Add chicken pieces and brown on all sides, 12 to 15 minutes. Pour off remaining b.u.t.ter.
In a large measuring cup combine remaining ingredients.
Add orange juice mixture to skillet. Cover and cook over low heat for 25 to 35 minutes, turning chicken several times until cooked through.
BREAST PAILLARD Serves 4 As you can see in the accompanying photograph, this is an attractive dish. I tried it on our indoor electric grill and thought it was worth making over and over again.
1 roaster boneless breast or 1 thin sliced boneless roaster breast Vegetable oil Salt and ground pepper to taste 1/4 cup b.u.t.ter or margarine, at room temperature 2 tablespoons snipped fresh or frozen chives 1 teaspoon minced fresh tarragon, or 1/4 teaspoon dried 2 tablespoons minced, fresh parsley Remove tenderloin pieces from back of breast. Place breast pieces and tenderloins between sheets of plastic wrap and pound to 1/4-inch thickness to form 6 cutlets. Skip the preceding steps if using the thin sliced roaster breast.
Brush with oil and season with salt and pepper. Combine b.u.t.ter, chives and tarragon. Reform into a bar and freeze to harden. Grill cutlets over hot coals, rotating the chicken on the grill to form crosshatch markings and turning completely over once. Or Broil 3" from heat a few minutes on each side until lightly browned. Cut herb b.u.t.ter in slices. Sprinkle each slice with parsley and top with a b.u.t.ter slice. Serve immediately.
BREAST ROLL CORDON BLEUServes 4 You can find a simpler version of this in Chapter Seven, Chicken for Tomorrow or Next Week, but this one is a show stopper.
1 roaster boneless breast 3/4 cup whole milk ricotta 1 package (3 ounces) cream cheese, softened 1 egg yolk 1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese 1/4 cup thinly sliced scallion 1/4 cup minced fresh parsley 1 clove garlic, minced 1/8 teaspoon nutmeg Salt and ground pepper to taste 1/4 pound sliced ham 3 to 4 cups chicken broth Place breast halves side by side between two sheets of plastic wrap and pound to 1/4" thickness, forming an 8" x 12" rectangle. In a mixing bowl combine remaining ingredients except ham and broth. Place breast smooth side down, on a piece of dampened cheesecloth. Arrange ham slices over chicken breast. Spread filling over ham leaving a 1/2-inch border. Carefully roll breast, lengthwise, jelly-roll fashion around filling. Wrap in cheesecloth, tie ends and in 2 to 3 places in center.
Bring broth to a boil in a large saucepan. Add chicken and reduce heat to low. Poach chicken, covered, 35 minutes.
Remove from pan and let cool. Remove cheesecloth and chill. Cut chicken roll in 3/4-inch slices and arrange over lettuce or watercress.
CHICKEN BROCCOLI CAKEServes 4-6 From the name, you"d think this was a very unusual dessert, but in fact, the cake part of the name comes from its shape, not its taste. Although this takes awhile to make, especially the pancakes, I"ve always felt it was well worth it every time I"ve made it. Since you can eat this with just a fork, it"s particularly good for a buffet meal when you don"t want your guests to have to cut anything while they"re balancing food on their laps.
Sauce: 3 tablespoons b.u.t.ter or margarine 3 tablespoons flour 1 1/2 cups milk 1/4 teaspoon salt or to taste 1/8 teaspoon ground white pepper 1/8 teaspoon nutmeg In a saucepan over medium heat, melt b.u.t.ter. Blend in flour and cook, stirring for 1 minute. Add milk and cook, stirring, until sauce is smooth and thickened. Add salt, pepper, and nutmeg.
Filling: When choosing the broccoli for the filling, look for firm, compact cl.u.s.ters of small flower buds with none opened enough to show the bright yellow flower. If you can see any yellow in the buds, the broccoli is overmature. Broccoli is at its best when the bud cl.u.s.ters are dark green or sage green, or even green with a decidedly purplish cast.
3 tablespoons b.u.t.ter or margarine 2 cups broccoli, cooked and chopped (Once when I didn"t have enough broccoli on hand, I rounded it out with green peas and it was great.) 1/3 cup grated Parmesan cheese 1/4 teaspoon salt or to taste 1/8 teaspoon ground pepper 1/8 teaspoon nutmeg 1-1/2 cups finely chopped cooked chicken 1/3 cup grated Swiss cheese 6 pancakes, each a little less than 7-inches wide and about 1/4-inch thick. (The thicker the pancake, the taller the "cake". Use your favorite recipe or mix.) In a saucepan over medium heat, melt b.u.t.ter. Stir in broccoli, Parmesan, salt, pepper, nutmeg and chicken. (You can stop at this point the night before, but remember to bake the "cake" longer since the ingredients will be cold from being in the refrigerator.) Preheat oven to 375oF.
To a.s.semble ""cake," b.u.t.ter a cookie sheet and place a pancake on it. Spread with part of the broccoli filling.
Repeat layers, ending with a pancake. Pour sauce over the top and sprinkle with Swiss cheese. Bake for 15 minutes (or 25 minutes if ingredients were refrigerated). Place under a hot broiler and broil until cheese is lightly browned. To serve, cut into wedges.
CHICKEN FONDUE IServes 4 I haven"t seen anyone use a fondue pot for a long time, but it"s still a great way to serve chicken, and it"s a fun and informal way to entertain. Maybe it"s time to remember this once-popular way of cooking. The first version is a new, low-calorie version. The second is more traditional.
4 skinless, boneless chicken breast halves 1/2 teaspoon salt or to taste 1/4 teaspoon ground pepper 4 cans (13-3/4 ounces each) chicken broth 1 bottle (12-ounces) chili sauce 1/2 cup mayonnaise or salad dressing 1 tablespoon finely chopped onion 1/4 clove garlic, minced Cut each breast in one-inch cubes. Sprinkle salt and pepper on chicken. Bring broth to boiling in fondue pot and keep at that temperature. Provide each guest with portion of chicken and fondue fork as well as fork for eating. Each guest cooks own chicken on fondue fork by holding in boiling broth about 1 minute, or until done. In a small bowl mix remaining ingredients as sauce for dipping after cooking.
CHICKEN FONDUE IIServes 4 4 skinless and boneless chicken breast halves 1-1/2 pints oil 1 1/2 teaspoon salt or to taste 1/4 teaspoon ground pepper 2 eggs, beaten 1 cup water 3 tablespoons sesame seed 1-1/2 cups flour Cut chicken b.r.e.a.s.t.s into 1-inch cubes. Bring oil to boiling point in fondue pot and keep at that temperature.
Sprinkle 1/2 teaspoon of the salt and the pepper on chicken. In a mixing bowl combine remaining salt, eggs, water, remaining 2 teaspoons salt, sesame seed and flour to make a batter. Provide each guest with fondue fork as well as fork for eating. Each guest cooks own chicken on fondue fork by dipping into batter and then holding in hot oil approximately 1 minute, or until done. Serve with a variety of dips. Any barbecue sauce makes a good dip. I also recommend the Dill Dip and Orange Dip.
DILL DIP Makes 1 cup 1/2 cup mayonnaise or salad dressing 1/2 cup sour cream 1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice 2 teaspoons finely chopped onion 1/2 teaspoon salt or to taste 1/2 teaspoon dry mustard 1/2 teaspoon dill seed In a small bowl combine all ingredients and stir until blended.
ORANGE DIP Makes 1 cup 1 can (6-ounces) orange juice concentrate 3 tablespoons oil 1 tablespoon vinegar 1 tablespoon sugar 1/4 teaspoon dry mustard 1/4 teaspoon salt or to taste 1/8 teaspoon Tabasco In a blender or food processor combine all ingredients.
Blend at speed for 5 seconds or until smooth.
Food Tip: Use leftover orange or dill dip for fresh vegetable such as cauliflower, broccoli, carrots or celery.
CHICKEN KIEV Serves 4 Frank and I had this in a restaurant in Moscow back in 1988. We happened to be there because the Soviet Government had invited Frank and his CEO, Don Mabe, to give them tips on producing plumper chicken. Don"s wife, Flo, and I got to go along. I remember that Frank was impressed by the world-cla.s.s knowledge and skill of the Soviet poultrymen, but he said their chickens didn"t grow to be as plump and juicy as ours because their diets didn"t include enough protein. The Soviet birds may have been thin, but the recipe that we had for Chicken Kiev was "otlichnii,"
(outstanding). You"ve got it exactly right if, when you cut the cooked chicken, the melted b.u.t.ter spurts out.
4 skinless, boneless chicken breast halves or 1 thin sliced boneless roaster breast 1/2 cup b.u.t.ter or margarine, chilled 1 tablespoon lemon juice 1 tablespoon snipped fresh or frozen chives 1/2 teaspoon salt or to taste 1/4 teaspoon ground pepper 1 egg, beaten 1 cup bread crumbs Oil for deep frying Place chicken between sheets of plastic wrap and pound to flatten slightly. Skip the previous step if you are using thin sliced boneless roaster b.r.e.a.s.t.s. In a food processor fitted with a steel blade, blend b.u.t.ter, lemon juice and chives; mold into four oblongs and chill. (In fact, I think freezing works best.) Sprinkle salt and pepper on chicken. Wrap chicken breast around chilled mold and secure with toothpicks. Dip in beaten egg and roll in bread crumbs. Chill again for one hour. Fry in deep fat at 350oF for 10 to 15 minutes or until crust is golden brown. Serve immediately
CHICKEN PAELLA PERDUEServes 6-8 This is the Perdue version of the traditional paella. The authentic Spanish version takes all day to make -a I"ve watched cooks in Spain do it. You"ll notice that the saffron in this paella is optional. That"s because the last time I looked at the price for it in the spice jars in the supermarket, I calculated that saffron costs more than gold dust. However, you only need to use a couple of strands of it at a time so it"s not totally out of line.
If you can"t find it or don"t want to use it, this recipe will still taste good$just different. It will also look different because saffron imparts an attractive yellow to the rice. Incidentally, the reason saffron costs so much is that it"s made from the dried stigma of the saffron crocus and it takes 225,000 stigmas to make a pound of saffron.
1 chicken, cut in serving pieces 1 teaspoon salt or to taste 1/8 teaspoon ground pepper 1 small clove garlic, minced 8 tablespoons b.u.t.ter or margarine, melted, divided 2 cups quick-cooking rice, uncooked 1/4 cup chopped onion 1/2 teaspoon paprika 1 tablespoon minced, fresh parsley 1/2 teaspoon seafood seasoning 2-3 filaments teaspoon saffron (optional) 1/2 cup fresh or 1 can (8-ounces) minced, soft sh.e.l.l clams 2 tablespoons clam juice 1 cup canned chicken broth 1/2 pound backfin crabmeat 1 cup peas 1 dozen small clams (on the half-sh.e.l.l) 1 package (9 ounces) frozen artichokes, cooked 1 jar (2 ounces) pimento strips Preheat oven to 350oF. Place chicken in single layer, skin side up, in shallow baking dish; season with salt, pepper and garlic. Pour 4 tablespoons of the b.u.t.ter or margarine over chicken; cover and bake for 45 minutes or until cooked through, uncovering during last 20 minutes for browning.
While chicken is baking, in a large skillet over medium heat, melt remaining b.u.t.ter. Add the uncooked rice and onions and saute until lightly browned. Add paprika, parsley, seafood seasoning, saffron, minced clams, clam juice and chicken broth. Simmer over very low heat for 15 minutes. In the shallow baking dish, leave 2/3 of the chicken; add the rice mixture, the crabmeat and peas in layers. As garnish, place on top of this, the remaining chicken, all of the clams in the half-sh.e.l.l, cooked artichokes and pimento. Cover and bake at 350o for 10-15 minutes to heat through.
CHICKEN PICCATAServes 4 Frank"s good friend, Sue Hess, from Ocean City, Maryland is a busy lady who entertains frequently and likes to be efficient when doing it. As she puts it, "I don"t like to have to invent every part of the wheel all over again for each party. I use the same plan over and over again. I know which platters I"ll use for hors d"oeuvres, I know where I"m going to put the c.o.c.ktail napkins, and when to start peeling the corn. When I find one recipe that I can count on, I use it often enough and make it often enough so I"ve got the preparation down to a science. This Chicken Piccata is one of my favorites to repeat for parties."
4 skinless, boneless chicken breast halves or 1 thin sliced boneless roaster breast 1/4 cup flour 1/4 cup (1/2 stick) b.u.t.ter or margarine juice of 1 lemon 1/2 cup chicken broth 4 lemon slices 1/4 cup minced, fresh parsley Salt and ground pepper to taste Slice each breast in half lengthwise, b.u.t.terfly-style. You should end up with 8 thin, flat pieces. Skip the previous step if you are using thin sliced boneless roaster b.r.e.a.s.t.s.
Dip pieces in flour to coat lightly, shake off excess. In a large skillet over medium-high heat, melt b.u.t.ter. Add scaloppine and saute until lightly browned on both sides.
Add lemon juice and broth to pan and cook 3 to 4 minutes more, turning scaloppine frequently in sauce until cooked through. Garnish with lemon slices and parsley.
CHINESE FRIED NOODLE CAKE WITH CHICKEN TOPPING Theresa Kreinen, who developed many of the low fat, low calorie recipes for Perdue, says that her favorite show stopper recipe is this Chinese Noodle Cake recipe. "I remembered that many years ago when I was working for a Chinese spice company, I saw a similar recipe and thought that if I took the salt and fat out of the recipe and used far less oil, that it might still be tasty." She tried her health-conscious version of the cla.s.sical Chinese dish, and ended up with something that is clearly a show stopper.
CHINESE FRIED NOODLE CAKEMakes 2 noodle cakes In large sauce pot over high heat, bring 3 quarts of water to a boil. Add 6 ounces dried fine egg noodles; cook in boiling water 3 minutes; drain. Rinse with cold water; drain well. In large bowl, toss noodles with 2 teaspoons vegetable oil to prevent sticking. In 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat, heat 2 tablespoons vegetable oil. Add half noodles, flattening to form cake. Cook 5 minutes or until bottom is golden brown. Loosen edges. Invert onto large round platter. Slide noodle cake back into skillet.
Cook 5 minutes longer or until second side is golden brown.
Invert onto large round platter. Repeat procedure with remaining noodles.
CHICKEN TOPPINGMakes 6 servings 1 roaster boneless breast 2 tablespoons vegetable oil 2 medium onions, cut in thin wedges 2 tablespoons minced ginger root 2 cloves garlic, minced 3 cups torn spinach 1-1/2 cups chicken broth 1 cup sliced mushrooms 1 sweet red pepper, cut in thin strips (1 cup) 1 can (8-ounces) bamboo shoots, drained and cut in julienne strips 2 tablespoons soy sauce 1/8 teaspoon crushed dried red pepper 2 tablespoons cornstarch 2 tablespoons dry sherry Remove visible fat from breast meat and cut into thin strips. In a wok or large skillet, over medium-high heat, heat oil. Add onion, ginger and garlic; stir fry 1 minute.
Add chicken; stir fry 2 minutes, or until chicken turns white. Add spinach, broth, mushrooms, red pepper strips, bamboo shoots, soy sauce and crushed red pepper. Cook 5 minutes or until chicken and vegetables are tender, stirring frequently. In a cup, blend cornstarch and sherry until smooth; stir into wok. Over medium heat, bring to a boil; boil 1 minute, stirring constantly. To serve, spoon chicken mixture over Chinese Fried Noodle Cake.