Using a slotted wooden spoon, remove mussels from the liquid. Strain liquid through a dampened cloth and measure. If liquid doesn"t reach 4 cups, add additional fish broth. Return liquid to saucepan.
Remove the mussels from the open sh.e.l.ls.
Add cream to the soup. Bring to boil over high heat, then reduce heat slightly and boil until soup is reduced by about one-fourth. Lower heat to medium. Taste and add salt if needed. Add the mussels to the soup and cook until just heated through. Garnish with parsley.
Etiquette Lessons In European, and especially in British, culture, saying "thank you" is one of the first expressions and lessons that children learn. In fact, in Britain there"s a special word - "ta" - taught to children that works as both "please" and "thank you." That way, before an infant can properly p.r.o.nounce "thank you," it can still express thanks.
Saxe-Coburg Soup
Queen Victoria"s beloved consort, Prince Albert, loved Brussels sprouts. Some say this soup was developed for him, others say it was named for Queen Victoria"s oldest son. Either way, the inhabitants of Downton Abbey could honor the royal family - and impress their own esteemed guests - by offering this soup as an option during the soup course.
YIELDS 4 SERVINGS.
6 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter 112 pounds Brussels sprouts, trimmed, chopped, and blanched in boiling water for 2 minutes 1 large yellow onion, chopped 2 medium potatoes, peeled and diced 4 tablespoons flour 1 tablespoon white sugar 112 cups heavy cream 112 cups whole milk 4 cups vegetable stock 12 cup sherry In a medium-large pot, melt b.u.t.ter over medium-low heat. Add the chopped Brussels sprouts, onion, and potatoes, then cover the pot and let sweat for 15 minutes. The vegetables should not color but should soften. Stir in the flour and sugar, and allow them to soften.
In a small pot, mix together cream and milk. Bring to a boil, then allow to cool slightly. Add milk mixture to soup, followed by vegetable stock.
Bring soup to a boil, then reduce heat to low and let simmer, partially covered, for 2530 minutes or until the vegetables are incredibly tender.
Remove the soup and puree it in small batches with an immersion blender or food processor.
Serve the soup in a cla.s.sic "no-handled" cream cup with saucer.
Suggested Pairings Mini-toasts or Mrs. Patmore"s Rosemary Oat Crackers (see Chapter 1) would go well with this soup, either for dunking or just as a simple side.
Partan Bree
Though this is a traditional Scottish recipe, it found its niche in many British households. Whether possessing a modest upbringing like Matthew Crawley or one of opulence like the children of the Dowager Countess, no aristocrat or their guest would sneer at this delicious soup.
YIELDS 46 SERVINGS 2 cups milk 2 cups heavy cream 1 cup white rice 12 pound fresh cooked crabmeat 3 cups low-sodium chicken stock Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste Finely chopped chives for seasoning In a heavy saucepan, bring milk and 1 cup of the heavy cream to a boil. Add rice, and simmer until rice is well done. Remove from heat and add crabmeat.
Using an immersion blender or food processor, puree the soup. Return soup to a large saucepan and slowly stir in the chicken stock. Season with salt and pepper to taste, then add the last cup of cream. Pour into bowls and season with finely chopped chives.
Times Gone By While only two soups were served per meal at a fancy dinner party by the 1900s, in 1789 Princess Royal Charlotte hosted a ball that featured twenty tureens of different soups as the hot part of the supper. While it is doubtful that anyone had a full bowl of each soup, it would have been considered the height of good manners to try a little of each one.
Regal Brown Windsor Soup
This hearty soup was both nourishing and popular during the Victorian and Edwardian periods. In fact, Queen Victoria was especially fond of this soup, and it was often served at royal banquets. Mrs. Patmore would offer this soup with crusty bread to both staff and aristocrats alike.
YIELDS 46 SERVINGS 14 cup unsalted b.u.t.ter 2 cups yellow onions, chopped 1 large leek, chopped 2 large carrots, chopped 112 pounds sirloin steak, cut into 12-inch cubes 1 tablespoon paprika 2 teaspoons kosher salt 2 teaspoons garlic powder 112 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper 1 teaspoon onion powder 1 teaspoon cayenne pepper 1 teaspoon oregano 1 tablespoon all-purpose flour 4 cups good beef stock 1 bay leaf 1 teaspoon light brown sugar 1 tablespoon sweet vermouth 2 teaspoons Italian seasoning 14 cup Madeira wine 4 rosemary sprigs Melt b.u.t.ter in a large pot over medium-high heat. Add onions and cook for 35 minutes. Add the leek and carrots and cook, stirring frequently, until soft. Add the steak, and then add the paprika, salt, garlic powder, black pepper, onion powder, cayenne pepper, and oregano. Cook until steak is browned, about 5 minutes.
In a medium-sized bowl, combine flour with 2 tablespoons of the beef stock. Add to the pot and stir well. Add remaining beef stock, bay leaf, brown sugar, sweet vermouth, Italian seasoning, and Madeira wine. Stir well and bring mixture to a boil.
Lower the heat and simmer, partially uncovered, until meat is tender, about 112 hours. Stir occasionally.
Discard bay leaf. Garnish soup with rosemary sprigs and serve immediately.
Etiquette Lessons From the very start, it is a steadfast rule of politeness that no single person at a dinner party be shown favoritism. Though Lady Mary and Matthew Crawley often ignore this, there should be no whispering in dark corners and no showing a preference for the company of one particular individual. This is why at dinner a husband and wife are often separated, so they can include and make new friends.
Lady Mary"s Spicy Mulligatawny Soup
Considering that a fair amount of British history deals with its colonization of India, it"s no surprise that mulligatawny soup, with its Indian roots, became a part of the British culinary scene. Mulligatawny, or "Milagu Thanni," literally means "pepper water," and is a spicier option for one of the two soups served and enjoyed at a dinner, fancy or not. Considering Lady Mary"s spicy personality, there"s no doubt she"d enjoy this soup while in the midst of a fiery debate with Matthew!
YIELDS 68 SERVINGS 1 garlic clove, minced 14 teaspoon c.u.min seeds, minced 4 whole cloves, finely crushed 1 tablespoon curry powder 12 teaspoon ground ginger 1 pinch cayenne pepper 12 cup unsalted b.u.t.ter 1 (4-pound) roasting chicken, cut into pieces 1 cup chicken giblets, coa.r.s.ely chopped 4 stalks celery, chopped 2 large onions, chopped 2 carrots, diced 1 leek, thinly sliced 11 cups chicken stock Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste 1 cup long-grain rice 2 cups tart apples, peeled, cored, and diced 1 cup plain yogurt 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice 1 cup whipping cream, slightly warmed Chopped fresh parsley to garnish Lightly toasted sliced almonds to garnish In a medium-sized bowl, combine garlic and spices.
In a large deep skillet, melt b.u.t.ter over medium-high heat. Add roasting chicken and saute until lightly brown on all sides. Then add chicken giblets and saute until cooked through.
Transfer chicken and giblets to stockpot. Drain all but 2 tablespoons of fat from the skillet. Add celery, onions, carrots, leek, and garlic-spice mixture to the stockpot, and stir well.
Pour 1 small ladle of chicken stock into the stockpot. Cook over low heat, stirring frequently, until vegetables are tender.
Stir in remaining stock, seasoning to taste with salt and pepper. Cover and simmer for 30 minutes.
Using a slotted wooden spoon, remove chicken and set aside. Add rice and simmer for an additional 15 minutes.
Once cool enough to touch, cut chicken into bite-sized pieces, removing bones and skin.
Return chicken to soup, then stir in apples and yogurt. Simmer for 15 minutes, skimming fat off top of soup if necessary.
Stir in lemon juice, followed by the whipping cream. Adjust seasoning to taste.
Pour soup into a heated tureen, and garnish with parsley and sliced almonds.
Etiquette Lessons When eating soup, it is proper to hold your soup spoon in your right hand while scooping the soup away from yourself. The spoon should never be placed directly into the mouth, rather the soup should be gently tipped from the side of the spoon and poured into the mouth through an opening in the lips.
The Earl of Grantham"s Green Turtle Soup
Due to the expense of importing the rare West Indian green turtle to England, serving turtle soup was a sign of great prestige. Thus, there"s no doubt that the Earl and Countess of Grantham would try to impress their guests by serving this Green Turtle Soup at important occasions, such as the Dowager Countess"s birthday or a feast in honor of an engagement.
YIELDS 6 SERVINGS.
112 cups (3 sticks) unsalted b.u.t.ter 212 pounds turtle meat, diced Kosher salt to taste Fresh ground pepper to taste 2 medium white onions, diced 8 stalks celery, diced 10 cloves garlic, minced 3 red bell peppers, diced 1 tablespoon fresh thyme, ground 1 tablespoon oregano, ground 2 quarts beef stock 12 cup dry sherry 1 cup all-purpose flour 1 tablespoon hot sauce 13 cup Worcestershire sauce 12 cup lemon juice 1 cup tomato puree 12 cup chopped green onions 1 cup fresh spinach, washed and roughly chopped 6 large hard-boiled eggs, chopped In a large stockpot over medium to medium-high heat, melt 12 cup of the b.u.t.ter. Add turtle meat and brown. Season to taste with kosher salt and pepper. Cook for 20 minutes or until liquid is nearly dry.
Constantly stirring with a wooden spoon, add onions, celery, garlic, and bell peppers. Then add thyme and oregano, and saute for around 2025 minutes. Add beef stock, then bring soup to a boil. Let simmer for 25 minutes. Skim off any fat from the top.
As stock simmers, make the roux: In a small saucepan, melt remaining 1 cup b.u.t.ter over medium-low heat. Still stirring with a wooden spoon, slowly add flour a few tablespoons at a time. Do not burn. Cook roux until it is pale in color and has a sand-like consistency, about 35 minutes. Set aside and let cool until soup is ready - roux should definitely be cool when added to soup.
Using a whisk, vigorously whisk roux into stock, adding a little at a time to prevent lumping. Simmer for about 20 minutes, stirring occasionally to prevent sticking.
Add sherry and bring soup to boil. Add hot sauce and Worcestershire sauce, then simmer for another 5 minutes. Skim off any fat or foam that comes to the top. Stir in lemon juice and tomato puree, then let simmer for another 5 minutes. Add green onions, spinach, and eggs, then allow to simmer for an additional 10 minutes and adjust seasoning to taste.
Times Gone By in the mid to late 1700s, confectioner Samuel Birch was the first to serve turtle soup in London, serving it with lemons, cayenne, and other condiments, with French bread on the side. Turtle soup later became so esteemed - yet so expensive to serve - that dishes such as Mock Turtle Soup (see Chapter 11) became a popular option, where a calf"s head and plenty of Madeira was used in lieu of the turtle meat.
Mrs. Patmore"s London Particular
The thick fogs that engulfed London until the mid to late 1950s for which this soup is named would not be unknown to the Crawley family. Matthew, a London native, would especially enjoy this hearty ham and pea soup, as it would remind him of his childhood home.
YIELDS 46 SERVINGS For Ham 1 smoked ham hock, soaked overnight in cold water 1 large onion, peeled and halved 2 celery sticks, chopped 4 peppercorns 1 bay leaf 3 sprigs fresh thyme 1 handful parsley For Soup 1 pound green split peas, soaked overnight 12 cup unsalted b.u.t.ter 1 medium yellow onion, chopped 1 medium carrot, chopped 6 cups ham stock from above ham Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste Leftover boiled ham Rinse, then drain, soaked ham hock. Place ham hock, large onion, celery, peppercorns, bay leaf, and thyme in a large saucepan. Cover with water. Bring to a boil, then simmer, partially covered, for 212 hours or until tender. Cool.
Strain ham stock through a fine-mesh sieve into a Tupperware or gla.s.s bowl with lid. Reserve the stock, and shred ham into bite-sized pieces. If stock is too spicy, distill with some water.
Rinse soaked peas until water runs clear.
In a large saucepan or pot over medium-low heat, melt b.u.t.ter. Saute the onion until it is soft and translucent. Add carrot, peas, and the stock. Bring soup to a boil, then reduce to a simmer, and skim off any fat floating at the top.
Simmer until the peas are very soft, about 45 minutes. Puree soup in small batches using an immersion or regular blender. If too thick, add more stock. Return soup to saucepan, add leftover ham, then heat through. Serve in warm bowls, perhaps with chopped celery sprinkled on top.
Etiquette Lessons Each great house - Downton Abbey included - was expected to throw at least one great garden party a year, preferably in August or September. Invitations were sent by the hostess weeks in advance, with the promise of tennis, croquet, or other amus.e.m.e.nts. If there was to be dancing at night, it was either done in a tent or under the moonlight on the lawn, perhaps illuminated by Chinese lanterns.
Creamy Russet Leek Soup
This pretty and surprisingly light soup is perfect for the more dainty guests of Downton Abbey who didn"t want to fill up before the main course. It"s easy to imagine Lavinia sipping this soup ever-so-properly, while Mrs. Patmore and the rest of the staff wait eagerly for leftovers.
YIELDS 46 SERVINGS 4 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter 4 large leeks, cut lengthwise, chopped Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste 1 cup water 3 cups vegetable broth 2 pounds Russet potatoes, peeled, and diced into 12-inch pieces 1 teaspoon marjoram 14 cup fresh parsley, chopped 2 teaspoons fresh thyme, chopped 1 teaspoon Tabasco sauce In a large saucepan, melt b.u.t.ter over medium-high heat. Add leeks, salt, and pepper, mixing well, then cover and let cook over low heat for 15 minutes, checking often. Do not brown leeks.
Add water, broth, and potatoes. Bring to a low simmer and let cook for 25 minutes. Stir in marjoram, parsley, and thyme, then let cook for another 10 minutes. Finally, add Tabasco sauce and more salt and pepper to taste.
Times Gone By In Old English the word spoon means a chip of wood. In fact, spoons were once nothing more than flat spatulas.
Lady Sybil"s Poached Salmon with Creamy Hollandaise Sauce
The Earl of Grantham confronts Lady Sybil about her interest in feminism and politics one night over an uncomfortable dinner. Even this elegant fish dish cannot distract the rest of the family from the brewing storm of opinions. The spices used in this dish, while adding heat, are nothing compared to the hot tempers seething that night!
YIELDS 2 SERVINGS.
4 tablespoons fresh lemon juice 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 2 (6-ounce) skinless, boneless salmon fillets 2 teaspoons kosher salt, divided use 12 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 4 large egg yolks 1 tablespoon hot water 1 cup unsalted b.u.t.ter, cut into pieces 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice 1 pinch cayenne pepper Fresh parsley or chives, chopped, for garnish Pour lemon juice and olive oil into a large pan that can easily fit both salmon fillets without much extra room. Add enough water to bring the water up to just below an inch. Season salmon fillets with salt and pepper, and add salmon to pan. Add enough water to cover salmon.
Heat salmon over medium-high heat until water is hot but not simmering, about 165F. Poach until salmon is opaque and firm to the touch. Salmon should reach an internal temperature of 140F.
In a small saucepan bring a few inches of water to a boil. Lower heat to medium-high, maintaining a gentle boil. In a metal bowl whisk together egg yolks and 1 tablespoon hot water, then place the bowl over, but not touching, the boiling water in the saucepan. Whisk constantly until yolks thicken and turn a light yellow, doubling in volume. Be careful not to scramble the yolks - it is okay to remove bowl from heat every now and then if necessary.
Once the egg yolks have thickened and doubled in volume, whisk in b.u.t.ter, a piece at a time, until it melts and mixes into the hollandaise sauce. Be sure to wait for each piece of b.u.t.ter to melt before adding the next one. Once all of the b.u.t.ter has been added, remove sauce from heat and whisk in the lemon juice, cayenne pepper, and remaining teaspoon of salt.
Drain poached salmon and place fillets on individual dinner plates. Cover with hollandaise sauce. Sprinkle with parsley or chives and serve.