On one of the days that my ague disturbed me least, I walked from the convent to Corte, purposely to write a letter to Mr. Samuel Johnson. I told my revered friend, that from a kind of superst.i.tion agreeable in a certain degree to him, as well as to myself, I had during my travels, written to him from Loca Solennia, places in some measure sacred. That as I had written to him from the Tomb of Melancthon, sacred to learning and piety, I now wrote to him from the palace of Pascal Paoli, sacred to wisdom and liberty; knowing that however his political principles may have been represented, he had always a generous zeal for the common rights of humanity. I gave him a sketch of the great things I had seen in Corsica, and promised him a more ample relation.[140]
[Footnote 140: "He kept the greater part of my letters very carefully; and a short time before his death was attentive enough to seal them up in bundles, and ordered them to be delivered to me, which was accordingly done. Amongst them I found one, of which I had not made a copy, and which I own I read with pleasure at the distance of almost twenty years. It is dated November, 1765, at the palace of Pascal Paoli, in Corte, and is full of generous enthusiasm. After giving a sketch of what I had seen and heard in that island, it proceeded thus:--"I dare to call this a spirited tour. I dare to challenge your approbation.""--Boswell"s "Johnson." Date of 1765.]
Mr. Johnson was pleased with what I wrote here; for I received at Paris an answer from him which I keep as a valuable charter. "When you return, you will return to an unaltered, and I hope, unalterable friend. All that you have to fear from me, is the vexation of disappointing me. No man loves to frustrate expectations which have been formed in his favour, and the pleasure which I promise myself from your journals and remarks, is so great, that perhaps no degree of attention or discernment will be sufficient to afford it. Come home however and take your chance.
I long to see you, and to hear you; and hope that we shall not be so long separated again. Come home, and expect such a welcome as is due to him whom a wise and n.o.ble curiosity has led where perhaps, no native of this country ever was before."[141]
[Footnote 141: "Having had no letter from him, ... and having been told by somebody that he was offended at my having put into my book an extract of his letter to me at Paris, I was impatient to be with him....
I found that Dr. Johnson had sent a letter to me to Scotland, and that I had nothing to complain of but his being more indifferent to my anxiety than I wished him to be." In the letter, which is dated March 23, 1768, Johnson had said, "I have omitted a long time to write to you, without knowing very well why. I could now tell why I should not write; for who would write to men who publish the letters of their friends without their leave? Yet I write to you, in spite of my caution, to tell you that I shall be glad to see you, and that I wish you would empty your head of Corsica, which I think has filled it rather too long."--ED.]
I at length set out for Bastia. I went the first night to Rostino, hoping to have found there Signor Clemente de" Paoli. But unluckily he had gone upon a visit to his daughter; so that I had not an opportunity of seeing this extraordinary personage, of whom I have given so full an account,[142] for a great part of which I am indebted to Mr. Burnaby.
[Footnote 142: See Appendix C.--ED.]
Next day I reached Vescovato, where I was received by Signor b.u.t.tafoco, who proved superiour to the character I had conceived of him from the letter of M. Rousseau.[143] I found in him the incorrupted virtues of the brave islander, with the improvements of the continent. I found him, in short, to be a man of principle, abilities and knowledge; and at the same time a man of the world. He is now deservedly raised to the rank of colonel of the Royal Corsicans, in the service of France.
[Footnote 143: In this letter a high character is given of b.u.t.tafoco.
See page 141.--ED.]
I past some days with Signor b.u.t.tafoco, from whose conversation I received so much pleasure, that I in a great measure forgot my ague.
As various discourses have been held in Europe, concerning an invitation given to M. Rousseau to come to Corsica; and as that affair was conducted by Signor b.u.t.tafoco, who shewed me the whole correspondence between him and M. Rousseau, I am enabled to give a distinct account of it.
M. Rousseau in his Political Treatise, ent.i.tled "Du Contract Social,"
has the following observation: "Il est encore en Europe un pays capable de legislation; c"est l"isle de Corse. La valeur et la constance avec laquelle ce brave peuple a su recouvrer et defendre sa liberte meriteroit bien que quelque homme sage lui apprit a la conserver. J"ai quelque pressentiment qu"un jour cette pet.i.te isle etonnera l"Europe.[144] There is yet one country in Europe, capable of legislation; and that is the island of Corsica. The valour and the constancy with which that brave people have recovered and defended its liberty, would well deserve that some wise man should teach them how to preserve it. I have some presentiment that one day that little island will astonish Europe."
[Footnote 144: "Du Contract Social," liv. ii., chap. 10.]
Signor b.u.t.tafoco, upon this, wrote to M. Rousseau, returning him thanks for the honour he had done to the Corsican nation, and strongly inviting him to come over, and be that wise man who should illuminate their minds.
I was allowed to take a copy of the wild philosopher"s answer to this invitation; it is written with his usual eloquence.
"Il est superflu, Monsieur, de chercher a exciter mon zele pour l"entreprise que vous me proposez. Sa[145] seule idee m"eleve l"ame et me transporte. Je croirois la[146] reste de mes jours bien n.o.blement, bien vertueus.e.m.e.nt et bien heureus.e.m.e.nt employes.[147] Je croirois meme avoir bien rachete l"inutilite des autres, si je pouvois rendre ce triste reste bon en quelque chose a vos braves compatriotes; si je pouvois concourir par quelque conseil utile aux vues de votre[148] digne Chef et aux votres; de ce cote-la donc soyez sur de moi. Ma vie et mon coeur sont a vous."
[Footnote 145: La.--ED.]
[Footnote 146: Le.--ED.]
[Footnote 147: Employe.--ED.]
[Footnote 148: Leur. I have made the corrections by the copy given in "Rousseau"s Collected Works."--ED.]
"It is superfluous, Sir, to endeavour to excite my zeal for the undertaking which you propose to me. The very idea of it elevates my soul and transports me. I should esteem the rest of my days very n.o.bly, very virtuously, and very happily employed. I should even think that I well redeemed the inutility of many of my days that are past, if I could render these sad remains of any advantage to your brave countrymen. If by any useful advice, I could concur in the views of your worthy Chief, and in yours. So far then you may be sure of me. My life and my heart are devoted to you."
Such were the first effusions of Rousseau. Yet before he concluded even this first letter, he made a great many complaints of his adversities and persecutions, and started a variety of difficulties as to the proposed enterprise.
The correspondence was kept up for some time, but the enthusiasm of the paradoxical philosopher gradually subsiding, the scheme came to nothing.[149]
[Footnote 149: In one of his letters, dated March 24, 1765, Rousseau said:--"Sur le peu que j"ai parcouru de vos memoires, je vois que mes idees different prodigieus.e.m.e.nt de celles de votre nation. Il ne serait pas possible que le plan que je proposerais ne fit beaucoup de mecontents, et peut-etre vous-meme tout le premier. Or, Monsieur, je suis ra.s.sasie de disputes et de querelles."--ED.]
As I have formerly observed, M. de Voltaire thought proper to exercise his pleasantry upon occasion of this proposal,[150] in order to vex the grave Rousseau, whom he never could bear. I remember he used to talk of him with a satyrical smile, and call him, "Ce Garcon, That Lad;" I find this among my notes of M. de Voltaire"s conversations, when I was with him at his Chateau de Ferney, where he entertains with the elegance rather of a real prince than of a poetical one.
[Footnote 150: "Je recus bien ... la lettre de M. Paoli; mais ... il faut vous dire, Monsieur, que le bruit de la proposition que vous m"aviez faite s"etant repandu sans que je sache comment, M. de Voltaire fit entendre a tout le monde que cette proposition etait une invention de sa facon; il pretendait m"avoir ecrit au nom des Corses une lettre contrefaite dont j"avais ete la dupe."--Rousseau to b.u.t.ta-Foco, May 26, 1765.--ED.]
To have Voltaire"s a.s.sertion contradicted by a letter under Paoli"s own hand, was no doubt a sufficient satisfaction to Rousseau.
From the account which I have attempted to give of the present const.i.tution of Corsica, and of its ill.u.s.trious Legislatour and General, it may well be conceived that the scheme of bringing M. Rousseau into that island, was magnified to an extravagant degree by the reports of the continent. It was said, that Rousseau was to be made no less than a Solon by the Corsicans, who were implicitely to receive from him a code of laws.
This was by no means the scheme. Paoli was too able a man to submit the legislation of his country to one who was an entire stranger to the people, the manners, and in short to every thing in the island. Nay, I know well that Paoli pays more regard to what has been tried by the experience of ages than to the most beautiful ideal systems. Besides, the Corsicans were not all at once to be moulded at will. They were to be gradually prepared, and by one law laying the foundation for another, a compleat fabrick of jurisprudence was to be formed.
Paoli"s intention was to grant a generous asylum to Rousseau, to avail himself of the shining talents which appeared in his writings, by consulting with him, and catching the lights of his rich imagination, from many of which he might derive improvements to those plans which his own wisdom had laid down.
But what he had princ.i.p.ally in view, was to employ the pen of Rousseau in recording the heroick actions of the brave islanders. It is to be regretted that this project did not take place. The father of the present colonel b.u.t.tafoco made large collections for many years back.
These are carefully preserved, and when joined to those made by the Abbe Rostini, would furnish ample materials for a History of Corsica. This, adorned with the genius of Rousseau, would have been one of the n.o.blest monuments of modern times.
Signor b.u.t.tafoco accompanied me to Bastia. It was comfortable to enter a good warm town after my fatigues. We went to the house of Signor Morelli, a counsellor at law here, with whom we supped. I was lodged for that night by a friend of Signor b.u.t.tafoco, in another part of the town.
Next morning I waited on M. de Marboeuf. Signor b.u.t.tafoco introduced me to him, and I presented him the letter of recommendation from Paoli. He gave me a most polite reception. The brilliancy of his levee pleased me; it was a scene so different from those which I had been for some time accustomed to see. It was like pa.s.sing at once from a rude and early age to a polished modern age; from the mountains of Corsica to the banks of the Seine.
My ague was now become so violent that it got the better of me altogether. I was obliged to ask the French general"s permission to have a chair set for me in the circle. When M. de Marboeuf was informed of my being ill, he had the goodness to ask me to stay in his house till I should recover; "I insist upon it," said he, "I have a warm room for you. My servants will get you bouillons, and every thing proper for a sick man; and we have an excellent physician." I mention all these circ.u.mstances to shew the goodness of M. de Marboeuf, to whom I shall ever consider myself as under great obligations, His invitation was given in so kind and cordial a manner, that I willingly accepted of it.
I found M. de Marboeuf a worthy open-hearted Frenchman. It is a common and a very just remark, that one of the most agreeable characters in the world is a Frenchman who has served long in the army, and has arrived at that age when the fire of youth is properly tempered. Such a character is gay without levity, and judicious without severity. Such a character was the Count de Marboeuf, of an ancient family in Britanny, where there is more plainness of character than among the other French. He had been Gentilhomme de la Chambre to the worthy King Stanislaus.
He took a charge of me as if he had been my near relation. He furnished me with books and every thing he could think of to amuse me. While the physician ordered me to be kept very quiet, M. de Marboeuf would allow n.o.body to go near me, but payed me a friendly visit alone. As I grew better he gradually encreased my society, bringing with him more and more of his officers; so that I had at last the honour of very large companies in my apartment. The officers were polite agreeable men: some of them had been prisoners in England, during the last war. One of them was a Chevalier de St. Louis, of the name of Douglas, a descendant of the ill.u.s.trious house of Douglas in Scotland, by a branch settled near to Lyons. This gentleman often came and sat with me. The idea of our being in some sort countrymen, was pleasing to us both.
I found here an English woman of Penrith in c.u.mberland. When the Highlanders marched through that country in the year 1745, she had married a soldier of the French picquets in the very midst of all the confusion and danger, and when she could hardly understand one word he said. Such freaks will love sometimes take.
"Sic visum Veneri; cui placet impares Formas atque animos sub juga ahenea Saevo mittere c.u.m joco."
--HORAT. lib. i., Od. 33.
"So Venus wills, whose power controuls The fond affections of our souls; With sportive cruelty she binds Unequal forms, unequal minds."
--FRANCIS.
M. de la Chapelle was the physician who attended me. He had been several years physician to the army at Minorca, and had now the same office in Corsica. I called him the physician of the isles. He was indeed an excellent one. That gayete de coeur which the French enjoy, runs through all their professions. I remember the phrase of an English common soldier who told me, "that at the battle of Fontenoy, his captain received a shot in the breast, and fell," said the soldier, "with his spontoon in his hand, as prettily killed as ever I see"d a gentleman."
The soldier"s phrase might be used in talking of almost every thing which the French do. I may say I was prettily cured by M. de la Chapelle.
But I think myself bound to relate a circ.u.mstance which shews him and his nation in the genteelest light. Though he attended me with the greatest a.s.siduity, yet, when I was going away, he would not accept of a single Louis d"or. "No Sir," said he, "I am n.o.bly paid by my king. I am physician to his army here. If I can at the same time, be of service to the people of the country, or to any gentleman who may come among us, I am happy. But I must be excused from taking money." M. Brion the surgeon major behaved in the same manner.
As soon as I had gathered a little strength, I walked about as well as I could; and saw what was to be seen at Bastia. Signor Morelli was remarkably obliging. He made me presents of books and antiques, and of every other curiosity relating to Corsica. I never saw a more generous man. Signor Cara.s.sa, a Corsican officer in the service of France, with the order of St. Louis, was also very obliging. Having made a longer stay in Corsica than I intended, my finances were exhausted, and he let me have as much money as I pleased. M. Barle, secretary to M. de Marboeuf, was also very obliging. In short, I know not how to express my thankfulness to all the good people whom I saw at Bastia.
The French seemed to agree very well with the Corsicans. Of old, those islanders were much indebted to the interposition of France in their favour. But since the days of Sampiero, there have been many variances between them. A singular one happened in the reign of Lewis XIV. The Pope"s Corsican guards in some fit of pa.s.sion insulted the French amba.s.sadour at Rome.[151] The superb monarch resolved to revenge this outrage. But Pope Alexander VII. foreseeing the consequences, agreed to the conditions required by France; which were, that the Corsican guards should be obliged to depart the ecclesiastical state, that the nation should be declared incapable ever to serve the holy see, and, that opposite to their ancient guard-house, should be erected a pyramid inscribed with their disgrace.[152]
[Footnote 151: According to Voltaire it was the French who were the most to blame. Their amba.s.sador had disgusted the Romans by his arrogance.
His servants exaggerated their master"s faults, and imitated "la jeunesse indisciplinable de Paris, qui se fesait alors un honneur d"attaquer toutes les nuits le guet qui vieille a la garde de la ville!"
Some of them ventured one day to fall sword in hand on the Corsican guards. The Corsicans in their turn besieged the amba.s.sador"s house.
Shots were fired, and a page was killed. The amba.s.sador at once left Rome. "Le pape differa tant qu"il put la reparation, persuade qu" avec les Francais il n"y a qu" a temporiser, et que tout s...o...b..ie." He hanged, however, a Corsican, and he took other measures to appease Lewis XIV. He learnt with alarm that the French troops were entering Italy, and that Rome was threatened with a siege. "Dans d"autres temps les excommunications de Rome auraient suivi ces outrages; mais c"etaient des armes usees et devenues ridicules." He was forced to give full satisfaction. The pyramid mentioned by Boswell was set up, but in a few years the French King allowed it to be destroyed.--See Voltaire"s "Siecle de Louis XIV.," chap. vii.--ED.]